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Old 04-06-2021, 01:17 AM #22
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Word, I'll give a little inspection to the bolt ID. I developed the faintest of leaks after playing all day yesterday, but the drive had sat (cleaned and lubed) since sometime last fall. Swapped the 014 after wiping down and relubing and went away.

The only roughness I've noticed is the tip of my valve nose is noticeably roughed up. I thought about knocking off the burrs on the plastic/nylon/delrin or whatever dropbear magic material it's made out of with some wet sanding and 600 grit.

Now we just need a post like this for the Torque. My batch 1.75 gun gulps air out of my 77ci tank. I haven't shipped it off for the new switch and I forgot to follow up on the 9x2 o-ring options to see if that might bring me back in line with what they were seeing in house.
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Old 04-09-2021, 09:28 AM #23
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I was watching a video from Punisher's paintball and they mentioned that previous Macdev solenoids are known to give out after a set amount of time, and the XDR was reworked to solve this. Do you know of this at all? Is the XTS impacted?
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Old 04-09-2021, 01:13 PM #24
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I was watching a video from Punisher's paintball and they mentioned that previous Macdev solenoids are known to give out after a set amount of time, and the XDR was reworked to solve this. Do you know of this at all? Is the XTS impacted?
Which video did they state that in?

That's a complete load of BS. The (gold colored) solenoid used in the Prime/XTS/C5 Infinity (and is compatible with all Clone 5 and Drone 2 models) has been extremely robust and is dead simple to disassemble if you need to replace a seal. MacDev solenoids are not "known to give out after a set amount of time" whatsoever.

I'm curious to see how/why the XDR solenoid was changed.
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Old 04-09-2021, 02:12 PM #25
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Originally Posted by imped4now View Post
Which video did they state that in?

That's a complete load of BS. The (gold colored) solenoid used in the Prime/XTS/C5 Infinity (and is compatible with all Clone 5 and Drone 2 models) has been extremely robust and is dead simple to disassemble if you need to replace a seal. MacDev solenoids are not "known to give out after a set amount of time" whatsoever.

I'm curious to see how/why the XDR solenoid was changed.
It was never the solenoid that people complained about. It was that board
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Old 04-09-2021, 03:05 PM #26
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It was never the solenoid that people complained about. It was that board
To be specific, the old Tadao-sourced screen burning out. The boards themselves didn't die.

That obviously hasn't been a concern since the Clone GTI released in 2013.
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Old 04-09-2021, 03:23 PM #27
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Originally Posted by imped4now View Post
To be specific, the old Tadao-sourced screen burning out. The boards themselves didn't die.

That obviously hasn't been a concern since the Clone GTI released in 2013.
Yup. These new boards are flawless. Even prior to the Tadao boards, those boards are still working strong.
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Old 04-13-2021, 02:58 AM #28
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Imped,

After replacing the 014 oring on the valve and the 16x2 bolt sail oring, ( on both my Primes ) they feel like they shoot much better. After the oring swap I shot both Primes in the backyard and yeah, both just felt like they shot smoother. Am I just imagining this sudden improvement?

Before the weekend I was getting that minor leak down the barrel and it was the 014 valve oring. Some extra lube did fix the leak, but I feel like yesterday’s oring swap was an even better solution.

I can’t remember the last time I swapped them, especially the 16x2. So I’m wondering now, is there any amount of time we can go by and know when to swap out old orings? Like shot count, or once a month? When performance starts to suffer? My confidence and understanding with the XTS just grew that much more by reading this thread and implementing the tips. Thank you.
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Old 04-13-2021, 09:20 AM #29
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Noa,

As you know, the Infinity has 4 dynamic seals, all of which serve critical purposes. You replaced 2 of them, one of which is responsible for preventing the shot chamber from leaking out the front of the bolt (014) and the other is responsible for cycling the bolt itself.

As for a set "shot count", no I don't that information. But, I can give you some advice so that you can better understand how to properly judge the seal's condition. The 014 should have some light resistance against the bolt ID, and if the two move too easily independently of one another, there's a good chance that you'll hear a small leak if you hold your ear to the feedneck and then gas up the marker. If you have a leak, it's time to replace it...if it doesn't, you're good to go. It's that simple.

As for the 16x2, it will last longer than the 014 because it doesn't have to put up with the same stresses. The 014 experiences cyclical decoupling from its sealing surface and every time it recouples, it has to ride across the edge of the exit ports in the bolt. The 16x2 sail oring remains in constant contact with the can ID, and also has a thicker cross section - more material generally = higher durability. That's why they moved to the 16x2 vs 016 from the Clone 5 era bolts. The judgement for the 16x2 is also pretty easy - it should also have light resistance with the can ID, but obviously that can be harder to judge by feel since the bolt is also engaging the 017 and 019. Going by feel is just a matter of experience. The second judgement method is to shoot it against your finger - the force should feel solid and it should return/reset completely every time. This is another "feel/experience" thing, so it can be a little subjective.

Once a month seems very unnecessary, especially since you spread the load over a handful of markers. For you, I'd say bolt sail once a year and 014 twice a year. Just keep a few of each on hand in the marker case and don't worry about it.

Note: One thing I've been meaning to try on my current bolts is some fine polishing of the internal bolt port edges that the 014 rides against, just to ensure the area is as smooth as possible. That will only improve 014 longevity.
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Old 04-13-2021, 05:53 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noa Bo View Post
Imped,

After replacing the 014 oring on the valve and the 16x2 bolt sail oring, ( on both my Primes ) they feel like they shoot much better. After the oring swap I shot both Primes in the backyard and yeah, both just felt like they shot smoother. Am I just imagining this sudden improvement?

Before the weekend I was getting that minor leak down the barrel and it was the 014 valve oring. Some extra lube did fix the leak, but I feel like yesterdayís oring swap was an even better solution.

I canít remember the last time I swapped them, especially the 16x2. So Iím wondering now, is there any amount of time we can go by and know when to swap out old orings? Like shot count, or once a month? When performance starts to suffer? My confidence and understanding with the XTS just grew that much more by reading this thread and implementing the tips. Thank you.
What did you replace the orings with? A direct replacement or just changing it up because of wear and tear?
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Old 04-13-2021, 06:34 PM #31
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What did you replace the orings with? A direct replacement or just changing it up because of wear and tear?
It was just swapping out the old with the new. I ordered these oring kits that Imped recommended and so I’ve just been trying to get use out of em. I also had a feeling that I needed to replace those two orings, partly because I felt it was time, but also because the movement by hand didn’t feel right. I didn’t have good contact with the 014 id. So I just made the judgment call and it was the right call. Both guns just feel more confident in each shot. Hard to really describe but I totally felt like I could feel the difference right away, they feel like they shoot brand new.

Edit-
I’m gonna leave the top part intact, but wanted to elaborate a little on the “brand new” part. The guns feel properly broken in, but the shot just feels fresh. Could all be in my mind but whatever. I think I may keep it in mind the time to swap out orings, maybe swap a little early or more often. Something I’ll have on the back of mind sort of.
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Old 04-14-2021, 12:39 PM #32
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Quote:
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I didnít have good contact with the 014 id.
014 seal OD contacts the bolt ID.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noa Bo View Post
Edit-
Iím gonna leave the top part intact, but wanted to elaborate a little on the ďbrand newĒ part. The guns feel properly broken in, but the shot just feels fresh. Could all be in my mind but whatever. I think I may keep it in mind the time to swap out orings, maybe swap a little early or more often. Something Iíll have on the back of mind sort of.
It's in your head. If your marker was functioning properly previously, new seals aren't going to create enough of a difference for you to notice.
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Old 04-16-2021, 04:46 PM #33
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Can anyone comment on the difference the SFR mod makes to the shot?

Does the efficiency mod change the shot quality at all?

I like the way the Prime shoots compared to other spools. That is why I bought a Prime. I like a nice snappy shot and the Prime offers that. Being able to tweak the shot, like the adjustable SFR on the IV core, is a nice option to have. The stock Prime is efficient enough for my needs but having the option to improve if needed is also nice.

Thanks Imped4now! Great job!
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Old 04-16-2021, 09:18 PM #34
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Can anyone comment on the difference the SFR mod makes to the shot?

Does the efficiency mod change the shot quality at all?

I like the way the Prime shoots compared to other spools. That is why I bought a Prime. I like a nice snappy shot and the Prime offers that. Being able to tweak the shot, like the adjustable SFR on the IV core, is a nice option to have. The stock Prime is efficient enough for my needs but having the option to improve if needed is also nice.

Thanks Imped4now! Great job!
I'm guessing you'd like someone's opinion other than mine.

The efficiency mod raises the pressure to about 115 psi. If you can tell a difference in sound or feel, you're more sensitive than me.

Changing the SFR seal is noticeable, but not major. Regardless, it will maintain its snappy demeanor.
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Old 04-16-2021, 10:32 PM #35
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I'm guessing you'd like someone's opinion other than mine.

The efficiency mod raises the pressure to about 115 psi. If you can tell a difference in sound or feel, you're more sensitive than me.

Changing the SFR seal is noticeable, but not major. Regardless, it will maintain its snappy demeanor.
I am a tweaker at heart so I will probably just order the orings you recommend for the "SFR" mod and give it a go. The efficiency mod really isn't important to me since I mainly play Xball. The Prime is more than efficient enough for me for Xball. If I was to use the XDR in a ten man mechanical event I would probably give the efficiency mod a try.
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Old 04-17-2021, 12:26 AM #36
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I know this is the wrong thread for this question but does anyone have a trick to get the #19 o-ring to seat in the keg internal groove? Long story short I can't seem to make it happen. I have tried everything I can think of. I can't get it in place! Wow is this frustrating!

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Old 04-17-2021, 02:09 PM #37
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Try folding it and then sticking one end in place then use your fingers to push it the rest of the way. Work from both sides of the Can.
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Old 04-18-2021, 10:10 AM #38
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I know this is the wrong thread for this question but does anyone have a trick to get the #19 o-ring to seat in the keg internal groove? Long story short I can't seem to make it happen. I have tried everything I can think of. I can't get it in place! Wow is this frustrating!
It's not the easiest seal to install, but there are definitely harder ones.

Here's what I do - push it in flat (instead of upright, concentric with the can) and push it past the seal groove. From the back of the can using a small flat head screwdriver, get a small section of the seal engaged with the groove, with the rest of it hanging forward of the groove. Now take the bolt and flip it around so that it enters the can tip first from the front. That will push a majority of the seal into the groove. You may need to back the bolt off a little and push on the seal from a couple different angles. Once you have most of the seal in the groove, pop the bolt out and finish it off with the screwdriver from the front.

Installing X Rings in that location is a little harder. The hardest seal install I've done is a U-Cup in the center 010 location of an Onslaught shutoff. Give that a try and this will seem like a walk in the park. 😉
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Old 04-18-2021, 10:19 AM #39
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I know this is the wrong thread for this question but does anyone have a trick to get the #19 o-ring to seat in the keg internal groove? Long story short I can't seem to make it happen. I have tried everything I can think of. I can't get it in place! Wow is this frustrating!
I do the same thing as Imped. Push the seal in flat and get the bottom to engage by pressing it in with the curved back of a nylon dental pick or other tool. You can then keep pressure on that and rotate around the circumference to engage the rest of the seal.
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Old 04-18-2021, 06:42 PM #40
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I know this is the wrong thread for this question but does anyone have a trick to get the #19 o-ring to seat in the keg internal groove? Long story short I can't seem to make it happen. I have tried everything I can think of. I can't get it in place! Wow is this frustrating!
This is the dumbest I have felt in a long time. I couldn't get the oring to seat because the original oring was still in there! I am not kidding! I stuck a pick through all the holes and I couldn't see or feel an oring. I looked inside with a flashlight and I couldn't see it. I then spent hours trying to install an oring on top of the one that was already in there. I got so frustrated I took my original prime apart, removed the #19 oring and reinstalled it. It isn't the easiest oring to install but it only took me a minute or two. I went back to the XTS keg and no matter what I tried I could not get the oring in there. I even put the oring in the freezer thinking that might help. I finally decided to take a look inside using a boroscope. Sure enough I saw there was in oring in there. I popped it out using a pick and installed a new #19 in less than a minute. No more leaks and the XTS is shooting great.

I was going to delete this post out of sheer embarrassment but I decided I would update it instead in case someone has the same issue. I assume the reason it was leaking is either that was the wrong oring in the keg or it was just damaged. Regardless it is good now.

I still can't believe I could not see it in there. Even poking through the holes with a pick I didn't feel or see it. I am glad I had a boroscope on hand or I would probably still be struggling with it.

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Old 04-19-2021, 02:51 PM #41
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This is the dumbest I have felt in a long time. I couldn't get the oring to seat because the original oring was still in there! I am not kidding! I stuck a pick through all the holes and I couldn't see or feel an oring. I looked inside with a flashlight and I couldn't see it. I then spent hours trying to install an oring on top of the one that was already in there. I got so frustrated I took my original prime apart, removed the #19 oring and reinstalled it. It isn't the easiest oring to install but it only took me a minute or two. I went back to the XTS keg and no matter what I tried I could not get the oring in there. I even but the oring in the freezer thinking that might help. I finally decided to take a look inside using a boroscope. Sure enough I saw there was in oring in there. I popped it out using a pick and installed a new #19 in less than a minute. No more leaks and the XTS is shooting great.

I was going to delete this post out of sheer embarrassment but I decided I would update it instead in case someone has the same issue. I assume the reason it was leaking is either that was the wrong oring in the keg or it was just damaged. Regardless it is good now.

I still can't believe I could not see it in there. Even poking through the holes with a pick I didn't feel or see it. I am glad I had a boroscope on hand or I would probably still be struggling with it.
Not the dumbest thing. People who work on autocockers have done far dumber things.
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Old 04-23-2021, 08:41 AM #42
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I'm laughing with you, not at you...promise.

OK, back to the regularly scheduled program. Has anyone had a chance to get their markers out to use with any of the mods or tips addressed? Let's hear some feedback.

And I figure this is as good of a place to put this as any - I'll be at Supergame Central. If you'll be there and would like to purchase anything (X-Rings, SFR seals, efficiency mod, etc), let me know ahead of time and I'll make sure I've got them on me. And just generally, that's a great place to hangout and meet new people....so if you'll be there, post up and we'll arrange a little Militia gathering.
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