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Old 05-18-2019, 11:13 PM #1
Join Date: May 2019
WGP 2k4 Autococker

I just bought a WGP 2k4 Autococker that is shooting great. I'm new to Autocockers but not to working on markers. Any advice for maintenance to keep it running well and saving heart ache and frustration?
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Old 05-18-2019, 11:19 PM #2
Join Date: May 2019
I will try to upload some photos when I figure out how to.
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Old 05-19-2019, 12:26 PM #3
tacxplosion's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guatemala (for real)
 has been a member for 10 years
Oil in the ASA every few cases and it should run for a while yet. Full rebuild once you're familiar with it and can time it from scratch.
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Old 05-22-2019, 01:27 PM #4
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Marietta GA
If its running, just add a little oil in the asa and don't monkey with it.
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Old 06-02-2019, 07:01 PM #5
Join Date: Apr 2019
Take the reg off, flip it upside down, add a little oil and put about 20 shots through it. Do this every 3-4 cases.
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Old 03-19-2020, 09:03 AM #6
DustFF369's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2019
If it shoots leave it. There is a video on you tube from the 90s I have it on vhs it will help you learn to time and maintain you're cocker. After you can fine tune it.
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Old 03-22-2020, 08:15 AM #7
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: MI
sokopath is Legendary
so many videos out there. even though it's shooting, you can potentially fine-tune it. i'd watch some videos of how to "time an autococker." messing around with these markers becomes a hobby in its own.
WTB: Warped Sportz 2k3 Dark Autococker & DM10 Aloha! DM me
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Old 03-25-2020, 10:38 PM #8
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: North County, California
 has been a member for 10 years
Dk-79 is reppin' sidebar 4 life
The biggest thing to know is that you have two independent firing sequences that have to work together. The hammer and sear, and the three way and timing rod. The rest of the bits have their own jobs but are more or less along for the ride as far as timing.

Making the marker fun to shoot is all about you, some like short and hard, others like long and soft... As long as you don't short stroke and pinch or chop your balls, you should be ok. Just make sure you talk to your marker about what it thinks is comfortable on the field or in your basement.

The hammer lug is accessed through the top of the body through that little hole, with the hammer decocked, and the bolt removed, you can adjust the hammer lug, loosening makes the marker fire sooner in the trigger pull, tightening the lug makes it fire later in the pull.

You may have to massage your cocking rod in and out ever so gently before you can get The Allen deep down into your lugs happy place. The bell ended Allen keys are great for getting in deep.

You want the sear to drop toward the front of the trigger pull, but not so far as to make the safety not work, or so that the lug doesn't catch on the sear when the bolt returns home.

You have fire, and cock. Not to be confused with firecock... That's a whole other issue. It should go something like this... Assuming the marker is in your lap, barrel racing left and the trigger frame pointed toward your gut.


The collar on the three way adjusts when the three way actuates the ram and backs that bolt up like a tequila drunk white girl on spring break. Taking the above diagram and assuming you have the stock three way (that's a rabbit hole...) Lengthening the rod will make the three way actuate sooner. Pumping up that ram and letting the balls down the throat quicker in the pull.

By lengthening your timing rod, three way collar or whatever, you would move the actuating point up in the sequence, resulting in this:


There is the chance of over doing it where you won't be able to get your autococker off. It'll be all ram and no pow, and nobody needs a barrel full of balls. If you go to far, it cocks before firing.

Like this: [--CF---]

You could in that case raise the hammer lug to offset your premature ram thrust. And also bring the firing point forward, making for a snappier trigger, but it's more prone to short stroking without practice.

Like this [-FC----]

Basically you want enough time for the hammer to fall, fully hitting the valve, and not catching the hammer as it falls. A full dwell cycle. But close enough so that you have a good trigger. If they are too far apart it just won't feel right. And your gun will fart like a loose **** at the stick fights...

I digress...

Just remember that the three way shaft adjusts when the ram actuates, and the hammer lug is where the sear drops the hammer. If all ram and no bang, retard the three way, or raise the sear... Depending on what your state laws condone. Conversely, if the three way is coming later than you would like, you can always lengthen the shaft.

There is also an Allen key under your grips on the upper side of the cutout, it's the sear stop/rear travel limiter. By raising it you limit how far the trigger can travel.

[-FC----] turn that screw in to: [-FC--]

Don't forget plenty of lube in your three way, and make sure you get a little hard on your cocking rod so that it doesn't get loose on you.

Putting a gauge under your front block is also a really good idea.

This diatribe aside, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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