[Raidenking]

We recently went out to the field with a good set of markers to try out, and our Axe 2.0 performed the most inconsistently of the bunch with a lot of breaks. Had to clean the barrel every game.

Been a while since I was last into the sport, so I'm curious if there is any known issue with the stock 2.0 where breaks occur? We had a Halo Too hopper on it most of the time and never really ripped a high rof.

I'm thinking it could either be an issue with the bolt or the two piece barrel. The couple games I played with the marker, paintballs would take a random flightpath half way down field and many were breaking before leaving the barrel.

Altogether we had an Emek, 170r, Resurrection, Axe 2.0, Tippman stormer, Cronus and an Azodin KPC out there. All were brand new except the res, but no one really wanted to play with the Axe by end of day. I know this can be a great marker when working consistently. Any ideas why this problem would be occurring out of the box?

Thank you

[Knorkator]

There are a few reasons for ball breaking issues, all of them covered by the trouble shooting guide in the manual (http://www.paintballsolutions.com/05...-Shockwave.pdf)

I´d start with the bolt/bolt guide orings and check the input pressure.

The standard reg setting should be --> screw flush with the reg cap ~190-200 psi

[Raidenking]

Thank you for the link. I looked through the instructions and noticed my marker didn't come with the gauge pictured in figure 10.1 on page 7.

There is also a much smaller allen screw showing from the front of the marker's ASA than in that picture. The allen screw has never been adjusted and appears to be in stock form, which also applies to the back of the bolt. I haven't adjusted either, but will experiment with loosening both slightly next time at the field.

Also noticed looking down entry on the barrel appears pretty smooth. Looking down exit side you can definitely see where the two piece connects. Barrel seems to screw together without issue, so I'm leaning towards this being a bolt or reg adjustment needed atm.

[Knorkator]

Originally Posted by Raidenking

Thank you for the link. I looked through the instructions and noticed my marker didn't come with the gauge pictured in figure 10.1 on page 7.

There is also a much smaller allen screw showing from the front of the marker's ASA than in that picture. The allen screw has never been adjusted and appears to be in stock form, which also applies to the back of the bolt. I haven't adjusted either, but will experiment with loosening both slightly next time at the field.

That's because i was too lazy to type in AXE "2.0" manual --> That´s the correct one http://www.paintballsolutions.com/pd...MANUAL_ENG.pdf

Originally Posted by Raidenking

Also noticed looking down entry on the barrel appears pretty smooth. Looking down exit side you can definitely see where the two piece connects. Barrel seems to screw together without issue, so I'm leaning towards this being a bolt or reg adjustment needed atm.

That's normal. 2 piece barrels usually come with different sized barrel backs all smaller than the barrel front. The back that comes with the axe 2.0 is a .688 size the front is somewhat over .690.

If you can't achieve ~280 fps with the default settings, check the orings on bolt, bolt guide and poppet.

Arching shots and barrel breaks are signs for bad orings on this parts.

[Raidenking]

Originally Posted by Knorkator

That's because i was too lazy to type in AXE "2.0" manual --> That´s the correct one http://www.paintballsolutions.com/pd...MANUAL_ENG.pdf



That's normal. 2 piece barrels usually come with different sized barrel backs all smaller than the barrel front. The back that comes with the axe 2.0 is a .688 size the front is somewhat over .690.

If you can't achieve ~280 fps with the default settings, check the orings on bolt, bolt guide and poppet.

Arching shots and barrel breaks are signs for bad orings on this parts.

Hey Thanks again!

Checked out the front bolt face, o-rings around the bolt and all looks good. Detents in great shape and eyes seem to be clean.

The more I look into this, the more it seems this has to be some sort of velocity or regulator adjustment needed. Perhaps its shooting too hot based on some combination there.

So bizarre because this is brand new with only one day of use. I used to have a beautiful original Axe - cobalt and white that ripped. Never broke a single ball and shot much more straight. This thing has been shooting opposite, like shots traveling clockwise and never straight.

If I can't fix it with tweaks over the chrono then will check if a softer aftermarket bolt is available. Hopefully it doesn't come to that!

[MstrKey]

Originally Posted by Raidenking

Hey Thanks again!

Checked out the front bolt face, o-rings around the bolt and all looks good. Detents in great shape and eyes seem to be clean.

The more I look into this, the more it seems this has to be some sort of velocity or regulator adjustment needed. Perhaps its shooting too hot based on some combination there.

So bizarre because this is brand new with only one day of use. I used to have a beautiful original Axe - cobalt and white that ripped. Never broke a single ball and shot much more straight. This thing has been shooting opposite, like shots traveling clockwise and never straight.

If I can't fix it with tweaks over the chrono then will check if a softer aftermarket bolt is available. Hopefully it doesn't come to that!

I just went through this with a mini I had. Insane amounts of paint breakage and a rough feeling gun for no reason.

First of all, some of the axe/mini orings are metric not standard which may or may not make a difference.......so make sure you have the proper sizes in each position. You can buy yourself one of those cheap FLASC paintball kits if you're not sure you have the proper fit.

Most importantly, the two large bolt stem orings have to fit very well. If they don't, when the gun cycles air chamber air will shoot past them, and blast into your feed neck causing your ball stack to experience extreme blowback(and possibly improper bolt cycling).........which will break paint in the stack. Mine was literally shooting the second ball in the stack upward so hard it hurt my hand when I covered the feed neck during testing. The orings looked fine but did not fit tight enough. So replace those orings even if they look fine. They need to create a perfect fairly snug seal inside the gun body. If you order the flasc kit I mentioned, I find their orings tend to err on the larger snugger side in most cases so that will help mitigate any tolerance problems on your bolt, bolt guide or gun body that could be causing a loose fit.

I know a lot of guys try to run their axe or mini bolts with less oring friction(to get operating pressure down) but honestly I'm finding that to be a mistake on this platform. They run so much smoother with a nice snug fit. Consistency issues at the chrony will also improve a lot.

Oh and obviously make sure your eyes and eye channels are clean and that you didn't mess up any settings unknowingly. Reset to stock settings even if you didn't change anything.....someone else may have without telling you.

[ConWonTheDon187]

I know this post is old but I would like to add both my guns brand new out of the box- an axe 2.0 and azodin kd3, were horribly out of tune. The velocity on the axe was set about an 1/8th to a quarter turn out and the reg/asa was set too high so as soon as I started messing with the velocity I was getting breakage every other ball or multiple balls in a row. Just set everything back to the factory settings which for the asa is the hex adjuster flush with the cap and the velocity adjuster on the bolt tightened all the way and backed out 1 3/4 turns or two turns and then adjusted accordingly with a chrono.

[MstrKey]

Originally Posted by ConWonTheDon187

I know this post is old but I would like to add both my guns brand new out of the box- an axe 2.0 and azodin kd3, were horribly out of tune. The velocity on the axe was set about an 1/8th to a quarter turn out and the reg/asa was set too high so as soon as I started messing with the velocity I was getting breakage every other ball or multiple balls in a row. Just set everything back to the factory settings which for the asa is the hex adjuster flush with the cap and the velocity adjuster on the bolt tightened all the way and backed out 1 3/4 turns or two turns and then adjusted accordingly with a chrono.

I've noticed the newer axe regs on the 2.0, mini gs and axe pro are not as nice as the older versions OR the gages on them are not as accurate. I've seen people having to bump the main regulator well past 200psi (they experience no leaks) to get these guns working properly. I talked to a tech when a buddy of mine's mini GS wasn't working and the solution he told me was to bump it up to about 250psi! We did that and it worked.......no leaks. So, it may be from the factory they're raising them up automatically to combat this issue, even though not every regulator seems to need it?

I can see them keeping the velocity screw in low for safety reasons, somewhat forcing the user to understand how to adjust it properly but it would be nice if they mentioned that on a leaflet or something, so people don't get upset.

[ironyusa]

1 3/4 to 2 turns out seems like it'll be pretty inefficient. 1 1/4 turn and then setting the reg for velocity always seemed the best balance. Also, sometimes the paint breakage issue can be the oring on the poppet itself or the bolt guide oring just behind the holes.