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Old 03-04-2017, 06:27 AM #22
Nobody609
 
 
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Ok, there seems to be a lot of bad information here.

1) the boards are "uncapped" for the most part. Technically the capp is 33.3bps but you really have to work at it to get anywhere near there, as the stock boards are semi only.

2) unless i am mistaken, neither Parker nor Humphrey would sell a single noid, no matter where you work. The reason for the drying up of the market is more to do to with the fact that those companies want to sell a few thousand noids at a time versus a couple or ameven a dozen to an individual. I could be mistaken, but i have that on good authority.

3) unless you have dealt with a machinist that has done eyes on a B2K before, be prepared to get a scrap body back. Not that there isn't a lot of meat to cut into, more that you need the correct placement of them to really be effective.

4) even if you get a good mill work, you need eye covers. I don't know if ICD has any left, so you really have one limited source, me.

5) T-boards suck. Simple as that. For what they are, there are much better options. 2 of which are literally plug & play. But the stock board does support eyes, and other than setting RoF lower for certain fields or any other fine details with the board.

6) you shouldn't need to replace the noid IF you don't over pressurize it. Keep the operating pressure under 300psi, and you are fine. I would run some lube through the noid first as a precaution first.

7) unless you have gotten your oring kit from myself (no pms that i see) or ICD themselves, no other oring kit has the urethane orings that you would need, nor would they have the LPR or HPR reg seats. Pure fact.

8) even if you could get a comparable noid, how will you hook it up to the gun? The B2K4s (which is the exact models that ANS is selling) and well all B2Ks for that matter use a noid to manifold setup. It routes the LPR air to the noid for the ram. You can hose the noid, but then you need a noid that has threaded ports.

But please, ask me questions about then. There is not much i don't know about then, and i have quite a few parts for them. If anything, i would want a good experience with these, than a bad one with self-induced problems through misinformation and guess work
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Old 03-04-2017, 07:44 AM #23
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I'm not disputing anything you've said here, I know you are very muck the resident expert on these guns, however I can tell you that I have bought single solenoids from Humphrey. I have not done so from Parker, but I know the regional distributor will sell me one. Making deals like that is how I make my living. As for why, I just prefer to have spares nailed down.

Unless I manage to screw it up, is there any reason I could not move the manifold block from the old 'noid to the new, if I need to swap?

The o-ring kit is coming direct from ICD, Gary hooked me up. I had an issue ordering goods to Canada through the website, so he set it up manually.

I was worried about the many issues involved in installing eyes. I may do it in the future, if I can get all the pieces in place, but running it in straight semi, with a modern loader should (I hope) work well enough for rec play.

I don't really want to build this into a fully modern gun anyway, the thing that attracted me to it in the first place wasn't the price, but the age. It comes from a time when eyes were still a "feature" you could get, not a standard thing you expected on even an entry-level model.
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:51 PM #24
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So just to let you know ans goes through the whole gun breakdown and rebuild from scratch. Then they air up and put in inventory. When you buy they air them up and shoot reballs through to ensure they work. Then they are boxed and sent to you. Same with the rebels and ballistic cockers
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Old 03-06-2017, 10:03 AM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team_Static_Age View Post
So just to let you know ans goes through the whole gun breakdown and rebuild from scratch. Then they air up and put in inventory. When you buy they air them up and shoot reballs through to ensure they work. Then they are boxed and sent to you. Same with the rebels and ballistic cockers
I know they tore them down, and rebuilt them when they first go them, but the question is, how long ago? I've taken some of my older guns off the shelf, dry fired them a couple times, and thought, "yeah, that'll work," only to have them go down hard at the chrony station on game day.

I'm not suggesting ANS is slacking, but considering ICD only wanted $7 bucks for an o-ring kit, and only $17 for a full rebuild kit, I figure I'm better off playing it safe. I have heard stories on here about these ANS sourced Bushmasters coming with jellied o-rings, and I don't want to damage anything, just to save the cost of a single entry fee for a walk-on day... I'm not that strapped for cash.
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Old 03-06-2017, 02:29 PM #26
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They go through them once then when you purchase a second time to ensure no leaks. I bought 2 and they both work great.
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Old 03-06-2017, 03:08 PM #27
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If that's the case, that's awesome news! This is my first purchase from ANS, and I'm really hoping all goes well.
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Old 03-06-2017, 03:17 PM #28
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Hell yeah! I'd still buy 3-5 full rebuild kits for the future/ maintenance. That should keep you going for a couple years at the least, depending on how often you'll use it.
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Old 03-06-2017, 03:31 PM #29
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What ANS says and what may happen are 2 different things. And you don't know the extent of what was done & who did the work to say without a doubt.

Anyway, if you are trusting, airing it up should suffice for a majority of the orings. They are not orings that see wear. They seal underpressure, not wear against a surface. Most problems there result in being old and brittle l, causing the leaks, especially the reg seats.
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Old 03-06-2017, 09:33 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobody609 View Post
What ANS says and what may happen are 2 different things. And you don't know the extent of what was done & who did the work to say without a doubt.

Anyway, if you are trusting, airing it up should suffice for a majority of the orings. They are not orings that see wear. They seal underpressure, not wear against a surface. Most problems there result in being old and brittle l, causing the leaks, especially the reg seats.
Been working at ans for a while. They have some awesome techs there. However some guns they don't have the knowledge of but given the fact they have been through 1000s. Of b2ks lately
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Old 03-07-2017, 11:18 AM #31
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^^ Prime details right there. ANS rocks!
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Old 03-07-2017, 12:25 PM #32
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I am really not trying to slam anyone at ANS, I haven't had anything but great service.

Long term, I plan to source my seals locally. I can get Urethane o-rings in any standard size (or Viton, or Buna, or silicone, or... you get the picture), and I can have any seal or gasket I can provide a sample or drawing of made. Even copper or aluminum crush seals are easy for these guys, and they cut me decent prices, because of the wholesale work I do with them.

The gun arrived last night, everything looks great, though when I pulled the HPR, the grease looks a little dry. Zero damage in shipping, and the gun shines like the noon-time sun. Really happy with what I received, and looking forward to beginning the overhaul process.
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Originally posted by AndrewTheWookie: 95% of all o-rings I've ever had to fix in my guns to solve leaks always looked fine, never trust the way an o-ring looks.
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Old 03-08-2017, 12:30 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team_Static_Age View Post
Been working at ans for a while. They have some awesome techs there. However some guns they don't have the knowledge of but given the fact they have been through 1000s. Of b2ks lately
Been in paintball nearly 20 years. I have heard and seen good and bad with ANS. Not trashing them as they have improved on the service since the beginning. Don't know if they got better people or people who care morr, but certainly not trashing them. Its just that these NOS guns, you don't know what has been said, has been done and what they need.
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Old 03-08-2017, 04:30 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srd11 View Post
I am really not trying to slam anyone at ANS, I haven't had anything but great service.

Long term, I plan to source my seals locally. I can get Urethane o-rings in any standard size (or Viton, or Buna, or silicone, or... you get the picture), and I can have any seal or gasket I can provide a sample or drawing of made. Even copper or aluminum crush seals are easy for these guys, and they cut me decent prices, because of the wholesale work I do with them.

The gun arrived last night, everything looks great, though when I pulled the HPR, the grease looks a little dry. Zero damage in shipping, and the gun shines like the noon-time sun. Really happy with what I received, and looking forward to beginning the overhaul process.
Very nice! Glad you got the gun. Can't wait to subscribe to your thread when you make one.
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Old 06-08-2017, 03:40 PM #35
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What do you mean aftermarket didnt support them, REDz valve from MacDev, STD SCM2 LPR (among other LPR's), AKA reg, short battery tray (required moving the battery to the grip, numerous bolt "upgrades" (the original delrin bolt was the best imho), eyes you could add, stainless screw kits, feed necks. There wasnt anything on this marker you couldnt upgrade. I have a BL Defiant (same as a Bushmaster) with almost all the above items done.
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Old 09-06-2018, 09:16 AM #36
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any updates on these markers, ordered on last night and now im biting my nails. about it
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Old 02-07-2019, 03:41 PM #37
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Worse come to worse your out $100. I’ve been tempted to get one to have for nostalgia’s sake honestly. With today’s hoppers it shouldn’t chop..... too bad anyways. Biggest problem back then was the only loader we had was the 12v rev you which couldn’t always keep up.... lol I remember people loving or hating them
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Old 03-13-2019, 02:50 AM #38
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Last I heard they're out at this point. Wish I'd jumped on it but *shrug* what ya gonna do?
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Old 08-16-2019, 04:51 PM #39
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https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/...shmasters.html


If anyone is interested....
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