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Old 01-23-2020, 09:15 PM #1
RedLance
 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Nebraska
LED resurrection

Greetings,

This is mainly directed at Dr. StrangeLove but I thought I'd put it out here in case it helps anyone else.

I'm working on resurrecting my old Alien Abduction LED marker.

I had replaced the ni-cad battery pack with an external Li-ion pack that ran the marker, the hopper and my mask fan, but that proved to be too cumbersome. So I used a couple of 14650 Li-ion cells in the original battery tube and they now power the marker and the hopper. I know Li-ion cells are 3.7 volts, so the 2 in series are 7.4, so I have a voltage regulator dropping it to 6.5 volts which is what I used with the external battery as it was 12 volts. It worked fine on the external, aside from being cumbersome what with all the cords. Anyhow, now I can't get it to fire. I measure 6.5 volts at the circuit board, and it will fire if I press the orange button on the back of the valve, but nothing happens when I pull the trigger. I tried to check the switch, to make sure it's feeding through but got confusing results.

What's the proper way to test the marker electrically? How do I tell if the board went bad, or it's just the trigger switch? What voltage should be going to the trigger switch?

Thanks to anyone for any help.

Brian
__________________
Some sort of Ion marker
Green Alien Abduction LED Angel
AutoMag with Auto Response Trigger (Frustratingly broken)
Black 1st generation Spyder
Brut pump with broken grip
Viewloader Revolution
Dye Rotor
Old JT mask with a mirror lens
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Old 01-24-2020, 02:25 PM #2
dr.strangelove
The Angel Eye Doctor
 
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Earth
 has been a member for 10 years
Continuity testing is the way to determine if the switch is properly functioning. With a multimeter on one of the lower resistance settings, place the red probe on the center pin of the trigger switch, and the black probe on either of the other 2 pins. When you press the switch you should see continuity. (Do this with the board powered off)

If the switch is functional, you can check to see if the solenoid is getting voltage when the gun is fired. To do so you would need to cut the wires to the solenoid (somewhere near the center so they are easy to splice back). Set your multimeter to 20vdc and place the probes on the bare wire leads. When the trigger is pulled you should get a very brief voltage reading. If you're not seeing any voltage, you might have a problem with the wiring or wiring harness. If you are seeing voltage, then the gun should be firing. If it's not, potential issues would be dwell (the potentiometer might have either drifted or failed), or possibly the solenoid coil has died. You can test the solenoid coil by applying voltage from a battery or DC bench power supply directly to the bare wire leads. Ground to ground, and then just momentarily connect the positive terminal and you should hear the familiar "click" from the solenoid.
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Old 01-28-2020, 08:50 AM #3
phantom01231
phantom01231
 
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Houston, TX
 has been a member for 10 years
phantom01231 plays in the APPA beginner division
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLance View Post
Greetings,

This is mainly directed at Dr. StrangeLove but I thought I'd put it out here in case it helps anyone else.

I'm working on resurrecting my old Alien Abduction LED marker.

I had replaced the ni-cad battery pack with an external Li-ion pack that ran the marker, the hopper and my mask fan, but that proved to be too cumbersome. So I used a couple of 14650 Li-ion cells in the original battery tube and they now power the marker and the hopper. I know Li-ion cells are 3.7 volts, so the 2 in series are 7.4, so I have a voltage regulator dropping it to 6.5 volts which is what I used with the external battery as it was 12 volts. It worked fine on the external, aside from being cumbersome what with all the cords. Anyhow, now I can't get it to fire. I measure 6.5 volts at the circuit board, and it will fire if I press the orange button on the back of the valve, but nothing happens when I pull the trigger. I tried to check the switch, to make sure it's feeding through but got confusing results.

What's the proper way to test the marker electrically? How do I tell if the board went bad, or it's just the trigger switch? What voltage should be going to the trigger switch?

Thanks to anyone for any help.

Brian
Most angel run on 3.3 v after the volt reg on the board. Not sure about the LED tho as Iíve bothered messing with the LED board. What results were you getting. And which LED board do you have as there were a couple? FYI the orange button on the valve is just a manual test that makes sure the valve works mechanically.
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