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Old 07-25-2015, 05:38 AM #1
dr.strangelove
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Tutorial: Tenergy Charger Angel Mod

**EDIT 02/16/2018** It appears the Tenergy model 01006 is being discontinued. You can find generic smart chargers with the same features in the same 2.4v-7.2v range. My current recommendation would be the CH-UN130 from BatterySpace.com

It is possible to use the Tenergy Smart Universal Charger for 2.4V - 7.2V NiMH/NiCD Battery Packs (model # 01006) to charge all Angel models from the LCD through G7 Fly. However, the charger does not come with the appropriate plug for the Angel circuit boards. This photo tutorial will detail the process of adding the appropriate size H (3.4mm OD x 1.3mm ID) coaxial DC power plug to the charger to enable us to charge our Angels.

You will need:

- Tenergy Smart Universal Charger for 2.4V - 7.2V NiMH/NiCD Battery Packs (model # 01006)
- Size H (3.4mm OD x 1.3mm ID) coaxial DC power plug
- Wire cutters and strippers (or scissors)
- Soldering iron

An overview of our supplies:



Our charger:





Our DC power plug:





The Tenergy charger uses a standard 2-pin male Molex connector and comes with 2 attachments: a Tamiya extension and alligator clips. We will replace the plug on the Tamiya extension with our size H coaxial DC power plug to enable us to charge our Angels:



First, we will clip off the male end of the Tamiya extension:



Next we will strip the ends of the wires we just cut. Then we will slip the screw-on cover of our DC power plug over the wires (take care not to forget this step, as removing the wires once they are soldered is a hassle). And finally, we will begin mating the wires to our connector by passing the bare wire leads through the loops of the soldering points. IMPORTANT: The red wire is positive (+), the black/red wire is ground (-). Positive (+) goes to the outside pin of the DC power plug, ground (-) goes to the inside pin. If you reverse the polarity, you can damage your circuit board and battery.



And apply solder:



We will do the same with the 2nd pin (doing a cleaner job than I did, with any luck):



We will screw the cover back onto our DC power plug. Now we have a 2 pin Molex extension with our size H coaxial DC power plug attached. We can go ahead and plug the extension in to the charger (note that the extension will only fit one way, so it is idiot proof):



Now, we simply plug the charger into a wall outlet, and connect our new extension to the gun to begin charging:



And we're done. Easy peasy.

Last edited by dr.strangelove : 02-16-2018 at 10:56 PM. Reason: Added updated info on charger, fixed photos
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:23 AM #2
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Nice! How much did all of this run you?
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:37 AM #3
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As of right now, the charger with shipping is running about $20 ($17.49 + shipping). A 2 pack of coaxial DC plugs is about $4. I already had soldering supplies (as you might imagine ), but you can do this type of work with any cheap, single-wattage soldering iron. You can pick up a cheap one for as little as $10 depending on where you buy. A spool of solder is another $4 or $5. So the cost to me was around $24. If you don't have access to soldering supplies, I'd count on spending another $15-$20.
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:15 AM #4
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hey Doc,
can a battery be charged directly if you created a female 1.5 3pin jst connector instead of going through the board?
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:28 AM #5
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Sure. The charger automagically detects the battery voltage and has cut off circuitry and trickle features, so you can bypass the board if you want to. The only minor issue there would be that the charger wires are quite large for the 3-pin female JST connector pins. You'd just want to make sure you get a secure solder connection and then use heat shrink tubing to shield them. The wires will bulge out a little bit compared to the connector, but as long as you get a solid connection it would just be a cosmetic issue.
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:53 AM #6
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This is great news, as

1. I have always been suspicious that the burned out temp sensors was occuring/damaged during charging, and would prefer to charge batteries without the board
2. My arduino led boards will use stock batteries, so i needed a way to charge them.

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"Even now in Heaven there are Angels carrying savage weapons."
"Did you ever notice how in the Bible, when ever God needed to punish someone, or make an example, or whenever God needed a killing, he sent an angel?"
BALLERS INC DESTROYED MY ANGEL

35 angels and counting......
Blue Black Impact Angel LCD, Doodoo Brown Dark Angel LCD, Dark IR3 & Ripper angel
94 Tippmann Pro-lite (old reliable)
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:05 PM #7
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Well bear in mind too that the stock LED battery uses a larger 2-pin Molex connector. The extension that comes with the Tenergy charges might actually work out of the box for the LED series.
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Old 07-25-2015, 02:18 PM #8
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Wonderful post
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Old 07-25-2015, 05:17 PM #9
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Excellent write-up. Good to see people people giving back to the Angel community.

I had to solder the same "size h coax" onto a busted a4 battery charger. It is pretty easy as strange states.
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Old 07-26-2015, 10:46 PM #10
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Sick... I'll probably do this and sell off the rest of my oem angel chargers as I have quite a few... *4+*
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:09 PM #11
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Will the 7.2v-12v Charger work as well?
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:24 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSentry View Post
Will the 7.2v-12v Charger work as well?
Technically it will charge the gun, but the cutoff circuitry is mismatched to the battery, so you would run a higher risk of causing damage to the battery in the event that the board circuitry doesn't cut off charging. You would be much better off using the 2.4-7.2v model.
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:33 PM #13
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What is the voltage of the LED batteries.. I also found another charger that is 6v-12v... sorry I'm trying to get the most use out of my Amazon Prime account as possible
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:43 PM #14
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The LED, LCD and IR3 use a 6 volt battery. The 03/04 Speed, A4, A4 Fly, G7 and G7 Fly use a 4.8 volt battery. The LED also uses a different battery connector than the LCD and newer models, so if you're going to be using the charger on a LED you would need a different connector than the size H coaxial plug. I don't know the part number for the LED connector off hand, but I believe it is a larger Molex connector, similar to the Molex connector included with the charger.
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:15 AM #15
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The led charger connector is the same as the intellifeed connector.
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"Did you ever notice how in the Bible, when ever God needed to punish someone, or make an example, or whenever God needed a killing, he sent an angel?"
BALLERS INC DESTROYED MY ANGEL

35 angels and counting......
Blue Black Impact Angel LCD, Doodoo Brown Dark Angel LCD, Dark IR3 & Ripper angel
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:34 PM #16
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Right right. I was thinking of if you bypassed the charging port and used the wire pigtail attached to the battery itself, although that's not really any easier.
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:36 PM #17
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yeah, and i have seen leds with all sorts of battery connectors as they have been replaced over the years, from big red jst, to clear molex, down to tiny 1.25mm jst
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"Even now in Heaven there are Angels carrying savage weapons."
"Did you ever notice how in the Bible, when ever God needed to punish someone, or make an example, or whenever God needed a killing, he sent an angel?"
BALLERS INC DESTROYED MY ANGEL

35 angels and counting......
Blue Black Impact Angel LCD, Doodoo Brown Dark Angel LCD, Dark IR3 & Ripper angel
94 Tippmann Pro-lite (old reliable)
Old Feedback - New Feedback
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:49 PM #18
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Hey, as long as it works
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:46 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trancer23 View Post
This is great news, as

1. I have always been suspicious that the burned out temp sensors was occuring/damaged during charging, and would prefer to charge batteries without the board
2. My arduino led boards will use stock batteries, so i needed a way to charge them.

I belive that the temp sensor issue along with the EPROM failure was more of an ESD problem. Not very likely anything to do with charging. But the charging could have very well caused the rare occasions of the volt reg getting fried. That temp sensor looking at the data was pretty ESD sensitive. The EPROM also had a read write life limit which I think caused some issues as well.
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:22 PM #20
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Doc, I completed this mod myself tonight for use with my A4. My battery was pretty well fully charged when I plugged it in so I only left it in long enough to see if it was working which it was. A couple of people have said that they have had issues with the board sending a false signal to the charger telling the charger sensor their battery was fully charged when it wasn't and subsequently the charger turns off. Did you find this to be an issue at all for you?
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:38 PM #21
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Haven't had any issues with the charging cutting off prematurely here. If that happens, or you suspect it is happening, you could bypass the board by unpluging the battery and using the Tenergy charger with the alligator clips to charge it directly. To do so, you would need to stick a couple of pins (paper clip legs or sewing needles would work) into the battery connector and then clamp the alligator clips to the pins, or cut the battery wires, strip back the ends, and clamp the alligator clips onto the wires directly.

Might be worth mentioning too that an aging or worn out battery may not be taking a full charge due to a dropped cell or a cell with diminishing capacity. If that happens, the battery bar will never show "full" no matter how much you charge the battery.
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