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Old 07-17-2015, 03:42 PM #1
Atrooper
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Tips/facts for new gog enmey owners

I thought this will be helpful for new gog enmey owners so here we go

*If you are planing to buy another barrel for it make sure it is ion/impulse threaded and make sure you have an o-ring(not required and on only certain barrels) as it will make the barrel fit much better
*The enmey can get up to ~10 bps (balls per second).
*The enmeys trigger is a single trigger and not walkable
*It has a non on/off Asa
*It is a .68 marker (quite obvious but still)
*the stock barrel is bored at .689 and 10 inches long
*the enmey can work with co2 and hpa, however hpa is always recommended
*the enmey is a mechanical, spool valve marker
*The enmeys weight without a barrel and hopper is around 1.65 lbs and operating pressure is 190 psi.

I hope this thread helped people even though you can find most of this information on the manual, if I missed or am wrong on something feel free to correct me.
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:39 PM #2
Sogamember666
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You can purchase a .50 cal enmey though.


My tips.

Buy sprung detents. Stock ones wear out way to quick.
Dont remove the rubber off the body unless you plan to do some extensive adhesion residue removal.
Be wary of the screws in the feedneck. Easily stripable.
If you are get maring or grinding on your back cap, loosen the rear frame screw a bit before installing/removal of back cap.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:23 PM #3
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People who are new to pneumatic triggers need to be aware that they need to pull the trigger all the way back and fully release it before pulling it again. I've seen a lot of guys who are accustomed to electros short-stroke the eNMEy trigger because they only pull back to exactly the point the marker fires at and don't fully release it.

Also, adjusting the trigger spring to its lightest will probably not make it any faster, in fact it may result in inconsistency and slower shooting because your finger will come forward faster than the trigger can actually reset. I leave mine set to one hole up from the bottom and have done this for numerous people whose guns I've teched, and all of them have liked the way the gun shot much better that way.
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:33 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sogamember666 View Post
You can purchase a .50 cal enmey though.


My tips.

Buy sprung detents. Stock ones wear out way to quick.
Dont remove the rubber off the body unless you plan to do some extensive adhesion residue removal.
Be wary of the screws in the feedneck. Easily stripable.
If you are get maring or grinding on your back cap, loosen the rear frame screw a bit before installing/removal of back cap.
Just add a 1mm thick washer. It will prevent the screw from touching the back cap threads permanently.
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Old 08-11-2015, 04:25 PM #5
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My tip: (gigity)

If you are having trouble removing the bolt sleeve, remember that the rear grip screw can protrude into the body of the gun, and effectively block or impede the rear bolt sleeve from coming out. If you have this problem, remove the bolt, look down the back of the gun and adjust the depth of the grip screw so it doesn't protrude into the body too far.

repeatedly forcing the bolt sleeve out while it's caught up on the screw is a great way to ruin something.
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:27 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatafetus View Post
My tip: (gigity)

If you are having trouble removing the bolt sleeve, remember that the rear banjo screw can protrude into the body of the gun, and effectively block or impede the rear bolt sleeve from coming out. If you have this problem, remove the bolt, look down the back of the gun and adjust the depth of the banjo so it doesn't protrude into the body too far.

repeatedly forcing the bolt sleeve out while it's caught up on the banjo is a great way to ruin said banjo.
I know it probably sounds nitpicky but the screw you're referring to is the rear frame screw, not the rear banjo. The banjo screws are the ones that pass through the barbed fittings that the airlines attach to, just to avoid any confusion.
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:46 PM #7
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oops, you're right. And no, that's not nitpicky at all! Its a totally different thing, it could cause some confusion if not corrected. I'll edit it.
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:52 PM #8
shocktroop
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If you have the shiny plastic body, you will want to replace it soon b/c it will crack sooner or later and cause problems (unless they made them better). Tightening the frame can cause it to leak and the back screw going up too far will interfere with the bolt guide, as eatafetus said.
Make sure you have the new HD valve as pictured on their website. The old ones can crack and leaks eventually.
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:36 PM #9
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Is the feedneck "tube" plastic on all of these? I'm wanting to get one and really wish it took regular old ion feednecks.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:25 PM #10
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Is the feedneck "tube" plastic on all of these? I'm wanting to get one and really wish it took regular old ion feednecks.
Yes.

If you want to run an ion feedneck there are people who can cut off the stock feedneck and thread your breech for an ion feedneck.
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Old 03-27-2018, 03:29 PM #11
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Just picked up an enmey for my son. Thanks for the tips!
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Old 04-04-2018, 12:30 AM #12
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Loctite the ASA screws, and the grip screws if you're not adjusting trigger tension anymore (definitely do them if using for rentals).
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Old 05-17-2020, 05:07 PM #13
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New enmey user bad issues ADVICE?

I purchased a (allegedly) brand new NME from an eBay seller. I lubed it, put in a new (clean) CP barrel, brand new (gauged, clean, dry, round) paint... also a brand new ninja UL... and it’s HORRIBLY shanking every single ball. Like, full loopdeloops.

I’ve shot these before and had minor shot drop during rapid fire. But nothing this bad. I put the paint in a different marker and had no problems...

So! Assuming it IS new: any ideas what this could be?

Assuming it’s not: what could cause this? I could totally replace all o rings. But it’s shooting so poorly, I am having trouble believing it’s old rings... is this a typical symptom of bad rings?
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