[Glazed_Donuts]

Here is a descriptive LPR cleaning guide for the DM8/9/10/11/12/13. The shim stack order is the same on all of the listed DM markers. I made this because it specifically caters towards all of the ‘newer’ DM (DM8-DM13) models with LPR’s and the Hyper 3 regs. This is being done on a DM11*

NEED:
- Q-Tips
- Paper Towels
- 1/4 Allen Key
- 3/16 Allen Key
- 5/64 Allen Key
- Fine Needle Nose Pliers
- Lube of Choice

Identifying parts and their appropriate names/locations.


#1
Remove grips and unplug the 2 molex connectors from the board.


#2
Remove the LPR Cap with the 1/4 Allen Key.


#3
Remove the brass LPR seat retainer with the 3/16 Allen Key.


#4
Remove the 2 screws that hold the grip frame to the body of the gun. Carefully funnel the wires through the grip frame to completely separate the grip frame from the body of the gun.
**NO PICS** This should be pretty straight forward..


#5
On the underside of the body, remove the set screw with the 5/64 Allen Key at the VERY REAR of the body so that you can pull the LPR Body out.


#6
Carefully, grip the LPR Body with the Fine Needle Nose Pliers and pull it out. You DO NOT have to clamp down on this very hard at all. Pull it STRAIGHT OUT so that you do not damage the LPR Body. DO NOT stick the pliers in so far that they touch the threads. There's no need to, and you could damage the threads on the inside of the LPR Body.


#7
Once you have the LPR Body out, you may have to grab the piston and shim stack out with the Pliers. Mine usually comes out in one unit. Once you do that and get everything out, there should be a total of 11 shims, 2 of which are larger than the other 9. The stack goes as show in the picture below.


Once you have all of this cleaned and re-lubed, check the seat for any extensive damage. This is what a brand new and undamaged one looks like.


#8
Clean out the inside of the gun body where the LPR Body goes with a Q-Tip. Make sure you don’t get too rough in there and leave behind any cotton fibers/strands.


#9
Your LPR Body after you have cleaned and re-lubed everything should look like this.


#10
Once you are done cleaning and re-lubing everything, you will have to re-insert the LPR back in to the body of the gun. What I do, is screw in the seat retainer by hand and then align the groove on the LPR Body with the hole on the body of the gun where the set screw goes in to keep it in place. While you’re putting the LPR back in to the body of the gun, DO NOT spin/rotate the assembly because you may mess with the alignment of the groove on the LPR Body and it will not match up with the hole where the set screw goes on the underside of the gun. Once it's back in, simply put back on the LPR Cap and screw the seat retainer in until there's a little resistance, and then back it out however many turns you had your marker tuned to. I recommend starting from scratch and re-tuning the LPR each time you take apart the LPR and since you don't have to do maintenance on the LPR very often, so it's really not a big deal. For detailed videos on that, check the stickies here or for a YouTube video.

Note* If you do not have it properly aligned, the set screw on the underside of the body of the gun will not sit flush/inside the body and it will protrude out, or stick out. If this happens, take the LPR Body out and realign it and try it again. DO NOT jam and force the LPR Body back in to the body of the gun, simply wiggle it, and it will go in.

If I missed anything, or this is not clear enough, I will edit and correct this. This should help though.

Edit: Spelling

[Manu#12]

Great job.

[c-tech]

Looks great, this should help lot. thanks.

[bnp14489]

This should be sticky'd I looked for this a few months back. Thanks.

[jojo750]

nice guide.
one thing i wouldnt suggest doing... using needle nose pliers to remove the lpr.
i leave the brass piece in the lpr, and use the same allen key that i adjust the lpr with, to pull the lpr completely out (after removing the set screw).
my allen keys have a ball end, so i can tilt the allen key at an angle and it puts enough pressure to allow me to remove the lpr assembly.

of course, if you're careful, the needle nose pliers wont do any damage. but there is always a chance of it happening. with the allen key, no change of scratching or gouging the lpr housing..

thanks again for the step by step guide. it is very helpful.

[otb]

When is lpr maintenance actually required? I bought a used dm13 and wondering if it's necessary at any point soon.

[Manu#12]

Like Jojo, I don't use pliers but an allen key

[jojo750]

Originally Posted by otb

When is lpr maintenance actually required? I bought a used dm13 and wondering if it's necessary at any point soon.

with any used gun, i service the regs when i get the gun. so i know a starting point for service intervals.
but the manual call for a service about every 60k shots (somewhere around there, i cant remember).

[Mike838]

great guide to help people who are first timers at working on the LPR. I also think that this should be stickied

[Glazed_Donuts]

Originally Posted by jojo750

nice guide.
one thing i wouldnt suggest doing... using needle nose pliers to remove the lpr.
i leave the brass piece in the lpr, and use the same allen key that i adjust the lpr with, to pull the lpr completely out (after removing the set screw).
my allen keys have a ball end, so i can tilt the allen key at an angle and it puts enough pressure to allow me to remove the lpr assembly.

of course, if you're careful, the needle nose pliers wont do any damage. but there is always a chance of it happening. with the allen key, no change of scratching or gouging the lpr housing..

thanks again for the step by step guide. it is very helpful.

This is a solid suggestion for people.

Also, if anybody out there is worried, just take the Brass LPR Seat Retainer in to a hardware store, and find the correct threads of it, and then just buy a single stainless steel bolt that's 3 inches long or so and you can use that to remove the LPR.

In reality tho, the place where you're gripping if you use needle nose pliers is safe to do so. There's no moving parts or anything you can really potentially damage, as long as you're not yanking it up or down or anything foolish. All good ideas, just find whatever works and is available to you.

[otb]

Did you cover your serial #?

[ion_phantom]

Nicely detailed sir.

[EpikYummeh]

Very nice guide. You might add that a paper clip works very well to remove a damaged LPR Seat instead of a dental pick or needle.

[LUCASIVAN13]

Newbie just upgraded to a DM11 so this is great help

[fidai]

Great job, a DM14 LPR cleaning guild would awesome also.

[ssslither]

Originally Posted by Glazed_Donuts

This is a solid suggestion for people.

Also, if anybody out there is worried, just take the Brass LPR Seat Retainer in to a hardware store, and find the correct threads of it, and then just buy a single stainless steel bolt that's 3 inches long or so and you can use that to remove the LPR.

In reality tho, the place where you're gripping if you use needle nose pliers is safe to do so. There's no moving parts or anything you can really potentially damage, as long as you're not yanking it up or down or anything foolish. All good ideas, just find whatever works and is available to you.

Unless it changed recently, it's a 10-32 thread. I use an old cocker rod but a piece of all thread works as well.

Nice write up.

[crillz666]

Regarding the middle screw (next to the set screw) - what does this do? Do I keep this hand tight+loctite?

Thanks

[twinings]

It is an air transfer hole. Needs to be plugged and sealed or air will leak from where the LPR is located.

[crillz666]

Thanks - I'm still getting a leak from the back of the bolt+LPR.

Blue loctite doesn't seem to seal - what loctite is the white stuff that was originally on the screw from dye??

[Dinkleberg90]

Originally Posted by crillz666

Thanks - I'm still getting a leak from the back of the bolt+LPR.

Blue loctite doesn't seem to seal - what loctite is the white stuff that was originally on the screw from dye??

You can air up the gun with the grip frame off. if that screw is the source of the leak you’ll know, you’ll even be able to plug it with your finger. If you’re feeling air come out the back of the gun it’s more likely an issue with one of your orings on the bolt assembly.

[Adaliah]

Still using this guide in 2022. Thanks again for the help!