[SteveTNightmare]

Hi all,
I'm pretty new around here, and I imagine that this has been discussed more times than I can imagine, but I had a question for you all. I have never even shot an autococker, let alone built one, but I'm interested in building an electronic cocker. I don't need anything top-of-the-line, and I don't really want to spend a ton of money on this. Frankly, I just thing electronic autocockers are really cool and want to build one. In your opinion, what would be the best way of doing this on a budget (like to keep it under $700 total), and with literally no experience whatsoever?

Thanks for any input,
Steve

[tacxplosion]

Get a "cheap" e1 'cocker, take it apart and change all the o-rings, should come in under $500 and leave you with a bit of $$ for upgrades, once you know what you want to improve.

[SteveTNightmare]

Why the e1 over the e2? I just found out there are electronic frames other than the eblade. Are they any good? Also, is there any specific model I should look for as far as the gun itself?

[tacxplosion]

Originally Posted by SteveTNightmare

Why the e1 over the e2?

Because it's cheaper, if you can find an e2 that leaves you some head room for upgrades, go for it.

Originally Posted by SteveTNightmare

I just found out there are electronic frames other than the eblade. Are they any good?

Yes and no, they work, but are more cumbersome to program and have less board options than eblades. Eblades were the most prolific design.

Originally Posted by SteveTNightmare

Also, is there any specific model I should look for as far as the gun itself?

Anything 2k+ spec is good.

[SteveTNightmare]

Thanks! I found an e2 for sale, but it was over twice the price of an e1 that I found as well. Also, what does 2k+ spec mean (sorry, but I'm really new to all this).

[johnrunner89]

2k+ is just referring components of the marker as well as the year obviously. Autocockers generally made after year 2000 have a larger banjo bolt for the front block and the bolts are different too along with other changes. So he means if you get/build a cocker, use a newer 2k+ style body as components seem to be easily and widely available.

[Schwag123]

Gonna need a valve tool, some loctite 545, some blue (debatable), springs, springs, and more springs (slightly kidding) and some patience. Think of it like a hopped up Spyder of sorts.

I may be able to help you out with the Eclipseblade (have multiple E2's and kind of a rough E1), body and other parts of you are interested. I can also help you out step by step. There are tons of vids on the tube. Nothin like building your own. It's like building an AR, you get sucked into this black hole of money, cussing, cruising MCB/eBay for random cocker parts, having to explain what the gun is to everyone at the field, and shenanigans.

You might be better off as previously mentioned, finding a used but running E1 for cheap OR finding a mech, running it blind with an Eclipseblade. E1s just kill ****ty 9v batteries real quick. Most stock WGP components are decent. Break it down and learn how they run, how they time( cdel/coff/etc), how to set the back block, etc.

Save that extra money for an AKA sidewinder, a nice on/off, the upcoming SciFi V2 OLED Bluetooth board, sandpaper for your loader's eedneck if it was pressfit, and 679/682 inserts (if you don't have already, cause paint these days sure isn't the RPS of old).

[SteveTNightmare]

Thanks Schwag123!
I would definitely be interested n any parts you are looking to sell and would love any other advise you have! I just picked up a new .680 back for my DSR, so I could probably just run that barrel until I get a separate one specifically for the build.

[oakrodent]

Hang in there. My first autococker experance was building an electronic. I always wanted one in the 90's but couldn't afford one.... beer was more important back than. I started with a cheap Craigslist Outkast for $100. Bought an E1 trigger & solinoid. Drilled & installed the reflective eye. Lost & lots of patience. I wanted to beat it up against a tree many times. At the end it worked out & ran like a top. I have since moved on to building half block's with MQ2s & Zero-b boards with BBeyes. Very addictive. Still great markers that require more air but just as good as the new stuff.

[SteveTNightmare]

thanks oakrodent!

[SteveTNightmare]

Here's an idea I had. Should I buy a Resurrection that ANS has on sale right now for around $350, and install an eblade on that? I like the midblock layout, and For that price, for a new cocker, it seems like a decent idea. What do you all think?

[tacxplosion]

Originally Posted by SteveTNightmare

Here's an idea I had. Should I buy a Resurrection that ANS has on sale right now for around $350, and install an eblade on that? I like the midblock layout, and For that price, for a new cocker, it seems like a decent idea. What do you all think?

You'll need to drill the frame or drill and tap the body to get it to fit, the frame mounting hole layout is different for either.

[SteveTNightmare]

Thanks! I'm going to buy a resurrection today. I'll figure the eblade part out later. I had another (most likely harebrained) idea. What if I bought a Psycho Ballistics SuperBolt or Lightning for $80, got a new front block, reg, ASA, and macro, and threw an eblade on that? I've read they're good for turning into pumps because the pneumatic (specifically the 3 ways) are terrible, so would replacing the problem part be viable, inexpensive option?

[tacxplosion]

Originally Posted by SteveTNightmare

Thanks! I'm going to buy a resurrection today. I'll figure the eblade part out later. I had another (most likely harebrained) idea. What if I bought a Psycho Ballistics SuperBolt or Lightning for $80, got a new front block, reg, ASA, and macro, and threw an eblade on that? I've read they're good for turning into pumps because the pneumatic (specifically the 3 ways) are terrible, so would replacing the problem part be viable, inexpensive option?

It's doable, in fact some people have done it with great results, the only thing is, tolerances with PB bodies vary wildly and they have some non-standard threads, plus the alloy grade isn't always up to spec, so re-anodizing doesn't always turn out well. If it works, which it most likely will, it should be pretty decent; that said, I'd opt for a full bodied model, rather than a mini.

[SteveTNightmare]

Hey guys! Thanks for the response, tacxplosion. I've been really busy lately, but I'm thinking with winter coming up I might have more time to work on building an e-cocker. I have some people at my local pro shop that might be able to help me out too. I think I'm gonna start getting bits and pieces to make a truly unique gun. Might even see if my machinist buddy can do some milling for me. What do you guys think is a good starting point? I was thinking of starting by getting a complete frame with board, eyes, etc., then getting a body, a solenoid, and then just going from there. Problem is, I don't know parts compatibility very well, so I'm afraid of ordering stuff that won't fit with each other and ending up with enough parts for 2-1/2 guns just because stuff doesn't work together. What would you guys suggest?

[Schwag123]

If it's going to be done over time, snag a good set of regs, AKA SCM3/JDS and a Sidewinder or 2L. A STO ram or one of the SMC/FreeFlow Rams will do you fine. 2K length bolt, like an AKA Lightning or just a stock open face, stock detent, 2K length pump arm. CCM lower tube kit. 2K cocking rod of your choice. A good screw kit, A 2K WGP (9/16th) body, NightKast, OutKast, prostock, orracle, etc. I ran eyeless on one mQ ecocker, with a good loader, you don't need it and most fields don't allow you to go nuts.

There are a couple of E2 kits on the bay, and I have better luck getting cocker parts over on M. Carter Brown. I'd also pony up the cash for the SciFi board. It's amazing compared to E2. One click timing and programming with your phone over bluetooth. I also 2nd the notion on the system x bodies, they are 2K spec, but are sometimes not up to par, although the dragon is pretty radical.

[SteveTNightmare]

Thanks! I looked up some of the stuff you mentioned, and I think I'll start getting some of it. I'm going to be getting the scfi board put in my Torque, so putting one in a 'cocker sound pretty cool too.