Pimp Resurrection

Yo soy el Warg · 03-13-2021, 03:34 PM

Well, after searching for some time, I found it was impossible to find a regulator seat seal that was suitable. So I made my own.

I believe the original material was 90 durometer polyurethane, so I made mine out of the same material.

Just replaced the temporary fix that I had located previously, and the new seat seal is functioning perfectly. Marker has been aired up for about an hour now, and I haven't seen any signs of creep.

I know this isn't in the B/S/T, so please delete the post if this is against the rules, but if anyone is interested, I'd be happy to sell you a few seals to help recoup the cost of the tools and materials and maybe make a few dollars back for the time and effort.

They could easily be put between two pieces of thin cardboard and mailed in a standard envelope. Please PM me if interested!

Pictures attached. You can see that one side of the polyurethane is quite smooth - the other side is not as smooth, but my guess is you could still get away with flipping the seal over to extend the life if need be.

cyberpyr8 · 03-14-2021, 10:03 PM

That's great. They are almost impossible to find for sale. How much?

Yo soy el Warg · 03-15-2021, 07:31 AM

I figured a reasonable price would be 2 for $6, or 5 for $10 shipped in a standard envelope.

I brought another respirator back from the dead yesterday with a full rebuild and it stays nice and consistent. I'd be happy to throw in enough o-rings for a rebuild if you need them!

My plan for shipping is to put them in a small plastic zipper bag, then fold it and tape it between two thin pieces of cardboard, and mail it in a standard envelope. Keeps the shipping costs low. I have a small scale that I use for homebrewing, so I can make sure it stays under the 3.5 oz maximum for a letter.

If you'd prefer a different packing method, let me know and I can figure out the shipping costs.

Pakistani · 03-15-2021, 08:52 PM

Hey guys. good to see some familiar faces from 2005-2006 still around.

I actually have a pimp i wanted to rebuild a couple of years ago, but never did get around to fixing it fully. I think this thread has inspired me to dig it out of the garage and get it working again.

Couple questions regarding parts:

I want to replace the LPR. Will any intimidator LPR work as a direct swap or are there specific ones i need to find? would this one work without any modifications? https://www.dirtyworks.com/blast-leg...ete-black.html
I may need to replace the cup seal(and valve possibly). Are there any direct swaps for either of those?

romanlynch · 03-16-2021, 12:43 AM

I think it was a 2002 style lpr and armory paintball usually has some if you want to shop around.

cyberpyr8 · 03-16-2021, 07:18 AM

Welcome back!

Yeah the 2002 Timmy LPR will work. Kbeam04 (posted on this thread) had some cup seals made from Palmers. He might still have some.

Pakistani · 03-16-2021, 01:45 PM

So just to confirm, only the 2k2 LPR is the one that we know will be a direct swap? has anyone tried any newer LPRs? i'd love to buy that empire one i linked as it would probably look better than the 2k2.

cyberpyr8 · 03-17-2021, 10:15 AM

Not sure. Maybe Heywould or one of the others would know for sure. I can't seem to get the Timmy's to work very well so I'm not a good source!

cyberpyr8 · 03-25-2021, 07:36 AM

As you get your stimulus checks think about getting Pimp #1

Pimp#1 For Sale

Pakistani · 03-30-2021, 09:51 PM

pulled the pimp out of the garage today. like uncovering a fossil. it's been years since i've paid it any mind, so i've honestly forgotten what even needed to be fixed. Last time i used it, i remember it had sudden, terrible leak but i don't remember from where.

Over the years, i pulled parts off of it to use in other builds. So some of today's mission was to pull an on/off, gauge and regulator out of the parts bin to at least have a "complete" marker again. the evil det is actually one i pulled off a project cocker, but i'll likely use a CP reg or similar in the final build. Honestly, i just can't be bothered to take it apart for a rebuild.

Next I had to drill out a stripped screw in the frame as the clamshell was not coming off.

And lastly i just checked out a few of the orings and sure enough, many of the urethane orings in the marker were practically goop at this point. The LPR is definitely going to have to go as well. the reg seat was completely gone. John confirmed on facebook that any timmy LPR should work, so i'm going to either order an AKA SCM-3 or just a standard bob long LPR to use for the pimp.

Tomorrow, i'll try to get into the valve to clean/replace those orings.

here's a pic i took in the middle of the teardown. (i do have eye covers and a proper feedneck)

cyberpyr8 · 03-31-2021, 07:43 AM

Yeah you will need to replace EVERY oring in there. I have had to do that to all of mine. They just melt to goo otherwise. I would buy a 2x oring kit (at least) to be sure you have enough of all that you need.

Looks good otherwise. Thanks for updating.

Pakistani · 03-31-2021, 10:44 AM

Cyber- What was the benefit of the WAS board? looking at the instructions- it looks like a semi-only board. am i wrong on that or does it actually have different modes?

cyberpyr8 · 03-31-2021, 02:24 PM

No it has different modes. The Ghetto 1.0 boards were semi only but the WAS has ramping. Mine had the base settings in the manual but it also has these settings:
https://pbmanuals.com/download-manua...g-board-manual

Pakistani · 04-05-2021, 04:18 PM

hate to say it, but i think this repair might be beyond me. the problems i'm having are 3 fold. After spending some time working on it, i simply can't get the LPR to seal to the body. I just installed an Alias LPR and i've encountered the same issue as the other 2 LPRs i've tried- the air will just vent around oring which seals off the body. i've tried multiple sizes of orings and nothing will make the body seal.

next, even with the body leak, there simply is no LPR adjustment. it's either 0 or 150psi. i figure there should be some adjustment here despite the leak.

lastly, with the gun running at 150psi (which is definitely high, but according to the manual should be a safe), the gun is hardly cycling. perhaps the noid was blown by the previous owner or the old, non-working LPR caused some kind of damage i can't identify.

bummer. If anyone would like to take the pimp off my hands to take a stab at, i'll happily offload it for a reasonable price. its possible i'm just missing something obvious.

cyberpyr8 · 04-08-2021, 02:31 PM

That's a shame. The LPR is probably causing you most of the issues. I have several Evil ones and I find that one that won't work on one Pimp works great on another. But I have a few that I cannot adjust and the guns they work on are fine but I can't adjust it at all if they don't work. I wish we could find a good working LPR solution for these guns. It would help get them back in service again. I have had mixed results with the Timmy LPR's too. I have one on my current pimp that seems to working. It has some hose leaks and I haven't had the time or patience to work it out.

I love these old guns but they are getting harder to maintain. Even with new regs and other modern parts, they are just difficult to keep running. With Ross Jones (Boss Paintball) not working on them anymore and no one else really having any interest in them, they might start to disappear. There's a guy on MCB (DavidBoren) that has several and might be able to help you out if you decide to try and get it working. He seems to really love them and understands how they work. I have thought about seeing if I could send mine to him to get them working again. Maybe one day I will get bored and make mine work again. It's too easy with my reliable PE guns to let the old Pimp sit and collect dust.