Howdy!
Due to the sucess of my
VIS One-Stop Info thread based off
Febo's
Vcom One Stop Info thread, I've decided to make a similar thread compiling information about another Bob gun; The Onslaught. As I've owned various insights over the years since their release, and now I've spent several months with my onslaught, I feel that I'm knowledgeable enough on the subject to contribute a thread to help others learn about the marker, diagnose issues, and talk about relevant topics. As before, I will inevitably make mistakes, so please correct me where I goof, as well as reply with useful information for me to add to this original post.
Rules:
- Before posting in this thread, please read it over and look at other's replies. The likelihood of someone having the same problem will be high once this thread matures.
- Please post here with useful, relevant, accurate information.
- If you have a problem, describe it to the best of your ability. Vagueness in your description of your issue will make it difficult to diagnose.
Basic info:
The onslaught is Bob's second iteration of the insight platform. It carries over all features from the insight with notable changes including
- Sprung back cap to provide shock absorption
- More robust shutoff with an added o-ring for redundancy and reliability
- Slightly longer ram to account for the extra o-ring in the shutoff
- Slightly lowered eyes to aid in reading smaller paint
- Sleek new milling
After a break in period of about 5 cases, the onslaught shoots a tad smoother than my insight
(tested by shooting dual wield style with the same tank, hopper, fill, and paint in hopper to control for the weight variables). The onslaught sound signature "pops" a little less than the insight's.
Both markers are extremely efficient, especially for spool valve markers. My scientifically conducted
(I.E. not half-assed) tests yielded more-or-less identical results, being well within margin of error. I got 13 and a quarter packed pods off a cold-filled 68/4500 with my broken-in onslaught running at a dwell of 12, input pressure 160 psi, bored paint and lubed with monkeypoo.
This is also a very fast cycling and responsive platform. With my spire, and a lowered bolt delay of 5 ms, I got my onslaught up to 27 BPS on the readout, and confirmed that metric by looking at the sound signature from the audio recording. This was achieved in uncapped 3 shot, and I amazingly didn't break a single ball. It's an awe-inspiring sight to behold.
I made this chart to give you an idea of how many shots you can get with your Onslaught assuming our markers are similarly set up. I performed two efficiency tests, then averaged them with Dan at YourPBfriend's numbers. After that it's only a matter of math. If you're curious as to how I came up with these numbers look at this post.
Bob's modern guns rely on a gripframe to mainbody o-ring that might blow if the input pressure from your tank is higher than 550 psi. While SLP output tank regulators are not required, they will allow you to shoot farther down into the tank and also make your ASA easier to turn on.
I know Hustle Paintball got more shots out of a tank with 550 psi output than SLP, but I'd have to see several more scientifically conducted tests to believe higher pressure gives you better efficiency. Make sure your reg is set to 550, 450, or SLP
before airing up. If you blew either the ASA to frame, or gripframe to mainbody, refer to the o-ring list section of this thread.
Tools needed:
Allen keys are in size order from small to large.- 1/16th Allen key to adjust trigger screws and remove solenoid plug screws (you should never need to do this).
- 5/64ths Allen key to remove gripframe screws, eye over screws, trigger pivot screw, OLED bezel screws, daughterboard screws, and asa knob tension screw.
- 3/32nds Allen key to remove both feedneck screws, asa screws, and remove air passage plugs (you should never need to do this).
- 1/8th Allen key to remove gripframe to mainbody screws, adjust reg output pressure, and remove the bolt head from the ramshaft.
- 5/32nds Allen key to remove the solenoid manifold from the mainbody and remove the back cap screw.
- #1 Screwdriver for removing motherboard screws and eye PCB screws.
- A couple of dental picks for removing and installing o-rings
O-ring List:
O-rings are Buna D70 unless noted otherwise. Dynamic or quickly-wearing o-rings are listed in red.
Engine from front to back: Regulator, mainbody, frame, and ASA:
Bolt head (both): 015 D70
Inside mainbody to reg center: 1.5 x 20mm D70
Ram shaft to bolt head: 1x4mm D70
Reg center to mainbody:011 D70
Bolt to volume chamber bumper: 114 D70 Square
Reg center to inline reg base: 018 D70
Flapper: 3/8 x 9/16 x 3/32 D70 U-Packing
Outside of reg piston: 016 D70
Volume Chamber to Mainbody: 020 D70
Shim stack retainer: 011 D70
Front shutoff: 108 D70
Mainbody to solenoid manifold: 1x3mm D70 (X2)
Middle and rear shutoff: 010 D70
Mainbody to solenoid manifold: 1 x 4.5mm D70
Inside of Volume Chamber (around shutoff): 019 or 2x20 D70
Mainbody to solenoid manifold: 1 x 7.5mm D70
Inside of Ram Housing (around shutoff): 014 D70
Mainbody to solenoid manifold: 1 x 9mm D70
Engine seals: 021 D70
Solenoid outer seals (proprietary): .71x 7.21mm D70
Ram housing to gas interlock housing: 1 x 13mm D70
Gripframe to mainbody: 1x4mm D70
Outside of gas interlock button: 011 D70
ASA to gripframe: 1x4.5mm D70
Ram shaft bumper: 008 D70
ASA to ASA piston housing: 1x4mm D70
Sail (ram shaft): 010 D70
Outer ASA piston housing: 015 D70
Ram housing to back cap: 1x2mm D70
Inner ASA piston housing: 006 D70
You can see that all o-rings are the same as the insight with the exception of the added shutoff o-ring. Some people like to run different o-rings in place of buna such as urethane or viton. Feel free to experiment or run what you like and report your findings here.
All these o-rings can be purchased À la carte from
TheOringStore.com, or in a kit from
OringMonkey.com with the exeption of the solenoid outer seals, which can be had by calling
Bob Long Direct, contacting
YourPBfriend, or messaging
tim2thousand4 here on pbnation.
O-ring locations:
For all you visual learners out there, I made these diagrams.
If you don't know what the parts are called look here.
Lubrication:
Unlike many other markers, the onslaught likes a specific few lubes, and using others can cause problems. Remember, this is a spool valve marker, so it needs the bolt cycle to be as frictionless as possible. Worn o-rings, incorrect lube or amount of lube all have a serious impact on performance. I recommend
Monkeypoo,
Lurker Lube, or
Pooty's Magical lube. Also don't forget to put a drop of
Tri flow oil on each of your bolt head o-orings.
It is absolutely critical that the engine is lubed often. I usually just clean and lube right before an outing, that way I'm always playing freshly lubed. When it's properly lubed, you should be able to move the bolt back and forth with a gentle flick of the wrist. If there is any more resistance than that, change
all the dynamic o-rings.
Settings:
These settings will vary based on location, altitude, weather, choice of lube, choice of underwear, ect. You may run whatever you like, but these are some starting points:
- 150-170 operating pressure
- Dwell of 12-14 (Stock is 12, but 14 if you're getting shootdown/bolt stick)
- Debounce: 2ms
- Mech Debounce 5
- Trigger Filter: 06
- Bolt Delay 25ms
- BD Delay: 12ms
The more you break in your engine, the lower you will be able to get your pressure and dwell settings.