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Old 04-21-2015, 04:32 PM #22
Slow Z Rally
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Not all at once. Use zdspb.com's troubleshooting guide for pneumatic lockout and replace the orings one at a time.
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Old 04-23-2015, 03:38 AM #23
zombiesid1
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Well one at a time I replaced the O-rings under the pneumatic lockup condition list. I didn't change the right solenoid insert O-ring since I just changed it previously, and it cycles better and firing quite a bit but after 10-20 shots it starts cycling 3/4 and not firing. Also it's leaking out the back alan hole when it's firing and when I plug it with my finger, It shoots different and then it slowly starts to lockup. I already changed the back o-ring on the sleeve as part of the lockup diagnosis, so I changed the bolt guide o-rings. Unfortunately I only have BUNA ones. It still does the 3/4 cycle and doesn't fire after a handful of good shots. Pressure at 180, dwell at 20ms(up high to overcome o-ring issues to isolate the problem)

shockerrepair.com is 4-5 weeks out I gotta figure this out on my own or unless I get a geo in the meantime and my luxe becomes the backup...
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Old 04-25-2015, 06:51 AM #24
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Try 1/4 turns on the filters. The baseline YDNA suggests is flush with the body for SFT, with PLs being a couple of turns in. Have pretty much the same set up(difference of an SFT) as you, and found this to relieve quite a bit of my problems.

Utilize the dwell at 9 or 10 to get it going and suggested pressure of 180.
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Old 04-26-2015, 05:52 AM #25
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I'll try that next. I tried lining up the inserts after I took the solenoid/mani off with the plugs and looked like about 1/4" in from the edge. It's a squared off body on the RL. Is that ok to do after you've used Dow 55 on the o-rings?
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Old 04-26-2015, 06:14 AM #26
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What are you asking if it's ok to do?

If moving the inserts in small portions, then I believe so. My personal technique is to turn 1/3, then back off a touch to 1/4 turn. This relieves any pressure from the prong being torqued IMO. may be over kill, but it's what I do.

Ultimate way to do this is take body apart. Remove solenoid & manifold
Remove SS body plugs(they are loc-tited) Use a hair dryer on high to heat them safely. It'll take a bit.
Visually watch the o-ring go past the plug hole, and then CAREFULLY loc-tite the plug and reinsert FLUSH with the body. Further in, destroy the insert. To far out, manifold will not sit correctly.


Hope this helps.
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Old 04-27-2015, 01:37 AM #27
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Since I put dow 55 on the solenoid inserts I wasn't sure if it'd be ok to "break the seal" as it were. I'm new to dow 55, I've only used Dow 33 before. Not an old timmy owner.
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Old 04-27-2015, 07:51 PM #28
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One other thing. Have you tried simply factory resetting the board?
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Old 04-28-2015, 01:55 AM #29
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It's done it with 2 different aftermarket boards. I don't have any stock ones unfortunately. I have confirmed they're on the right eye mode.
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:44 AM #30
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I am thinking bolt delay. Hence factory reset to make your life easier to start.
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Old 04-03-2021, 11:19 PM #31
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I just put a toolless bolt guide in my shocker sft with virtue board oled, first shot ok, second shot won't fully cycle. Pootie bolt. Any ideas? And does anyone know the sweet spot settings for the oled for a sft with an virtue oled? What they run theirs at or default settings?. If I put the stock guide back on it's fine btw... Thanks for the help
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