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Old 06-10-2021, 02:08 PM #1
athielking
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
03 EBlade - Getting Back In the Game

Hi All,

I'm wanting to get back into paintball after about a 15 year hiatus and thankfully had kept my marker for all this time.

Its an 03 WGP Autococker that I've upgraded with various parts from when i was playing. Most notably a 1st Gen Eclipse EBlade.



I put a battery in the board and it fired right up so i know the eblade at least works. I have a PMI 68/4500 psi air tank that I'm told should be just thrown away due to a certain lifespan on the tank.

So I haven't aired the marker up yet but I'm wondering if there is anything else I should check or replace before doing so? Do I need to do a full re-build of all the o-rings and regulators since it has sat for so long?

I pulled off the trigger frame because the trigger was a bit sticky, and noticed some corrosion on the sear trigger and the pins that go in the frame. Should I be worried about that / replace them? The sear moves fine, and the solenoid will dry fire the gun fine, just not sure if the corrosion is something to worry about.

Are there any other areas I should be concerned about corrosion?

I'm looking at playing in a scenario game toward the end of Sept with some friends and I'd really like to have this up and running by then. Any help or resources is much appreciated.
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Old 06-10-2021, 09:19 PM #2
tacxplosion
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guatemala (for real)
 has been a member for 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by athielking View Post
So I haven't aired the marker up yet but I'm wondering if there is anything else I should check or replace before doing so? Do I need to do a full re-build of all the o-rings and regulators since it has sat for so long?
I would rebuild, considering how long it's been sitting idle, all urethane o-rings have probably turned into jelly and BUNA o-rings are probably super-brittle (liable to break down into dust the moment you look at them wrong); not only that, I'd also go over the ram bumpers, QEV diaphragms, reg seats (HPR and LPR), cocking rod bumper and ball detent. Make sure to get some grease for the cocking solenoid gasket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by athielking View Post
I pulled off the trigger frame because the trigger was a bit sticky, and noticed some corrosion on the sear trigger and the pins that go in the frame. Should I be worried about that / replace them? The sear moves fine, and the solenoid will dry fire the gun fine, just not sure if the corrosion is something to worry about.
In these parts, it's only really a concern if it impairs function; otherwise, it barely matters. If you really must fix them, light polishing would be all that's needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by athielking View Post
Are there any other areas I should be concerned about corrosion?
Where this does raise concern is the springs, if they're corroded and have started pitting, this could change the spring rate and mess with your valve/hammer balance.
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Old 06-10-2021, 09:28 PM #3
jubsz
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Over the last year, I rebuilt my black magic of the same vintage. Prior to that, it worked around 2008 or so. I aired it up around 2015 for the first time since, it didn't leak. It fired about a hopper and started leaking like mad. I put it away and forgot about it until late 2019. I bought all new o-rings and rebuilt it. The battery terminals on the board started pulling away and not providing enough power. I replaced the board with a sci-fi board (new age custom bluetooth board). Marker does not leak and shoots pretty well. It is still less consistent than I'd like and breaks more than I'd like. I think more consistent paint would help both of those issues tremendously.

Point is, if it doesn't leak right away, it probably will. I've had to learn autocockers as I go and it's been a lengthy, expensive process. I've bought a more modern marker (DSR) that I usually play with. I pull out the autococker here and there but modern markers are just so much more simple and fun to play paintball with tbh. Autocockers are just finicky compared to modern mid-range markers. If you're dead set on the autococker, rebuild it. If you just want to play a scenario game, rent or borrow a modern marker. If the focus is just to play some paintball, modern markers are just better unfortunately. If I didn't have the nostalgia factor of the gun of my teen years, I'd abandon it entirely. It makes no logical sense to have but I do like shooting it.
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:39 AM #4
athielking
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2021
Quote:
Originally Posted by jubsz View Post
I've had to learn autocockers as I go and it's been a lengthy, expensive process. I've bought a more modern marker (DSR) that I usually play with. I pull out the autococker here and there but modern markers are just so much more simple and fun to play paintball with tbh. Autocockers are just finicky compared to modern mid-range markers. If you're dead set on the autococker, rebuild it. If you just want to play a scenario game, rent or borrow a modern marker. If the focus is just to play some paintball, modern markers are just better unfortunately. If I didn't have the nostalgia factor of the gun of my teen years, I'd abandon it entirely. It makes no logical sense to have but I do like shooting it.
This is what i was worried about, I love this gun for the nostalgia factor but was debating if it was 'worth' it to go through the whole rebuild process. Anything I did know about the gun and its internals has long been forgotten.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tacxplosion View Post
I would rebuild, considering how long it's been sitting idle, all urethane o-rings have probably turned into jelly and BUNA o-rings are probably super-brittle (liable to break down into dust the moment you look at them wrong); not only that, I'd also go over the ram bumpers, QEV diaphragms, reg seats (HPR and LPR), cocking rod bumper and ball detent. Make sure to get some grease for the cocking solenoid gasket.
If i were to go down this path, I know there are generic 'autococker o ring sets' you can find online. Are the other parts you mentioned ( QEV Diaphragms etc ) easy to find replacements for as well?
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:05 PM #5
tacxplosion
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Guatemala (for real)
 has been a member for 10 years
Quote:
Originally Posted by athielking View Post
If i were to go down this path, I know there are generic 'autococker o ring sets' you can find online. Are the other parts you mentioned ( QEV Diaphragms etc ) easy to find replacements for as well?
Some are, LPR reg seats can be found on paintballgateway (LPR) not sure what the HPR uses, in floating poppet designs it tends to be an o-ring or flat ring.

Other than that, you'll have to scour the web (diaphragms) or make them yourself (bumpers); at which point, you're probably better off buying new components (QEV's in particular).

I'd say, if you're going to try to restore, but are more concerned with playing than tinkering, let the o-rings soak in air tool oil overnight, try it out, and then fix as issues come up. If you like to tinker, take it all apart, change soft parts as needed and replace components for which you can't find spare parts.
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