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Old 07-03-2005, 07:29 PM #85
Samtheman
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are you sad because you weren't in on the gremlin take over in the re-entering family thread?
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Old 07-07-2005, 08:33 PM #86
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i didnt feel like reading the entire thread so i dont know if this has been posted or not, but can you turn a trilogy pro into a mini cocker? im pretty sure the stock trilogy LPR has the same threads as the front block screw, so it would be easy to tap. but since the valve spring runs from the valve cupseal to the lpr adjustment screw, would it mess anything up if you chop off the integrated front block and asa? my friend is considering doing this to his trilogy pro...
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Old 07-08-2005, 01:07 PM #87
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This must be a great thread if it is stickied on both PBN and PBR.


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Old 07-08-2005, 04:44 PM #88
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this was a great thread guys thanks for the info im ordering my competition soon
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:24 PM #89
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I realize this is probably a no, but is the feedneck on any of the trilogies threaded? It looks like it could be.
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:39 PM #90
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Nope, none of them are threaded.
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Old 07-15-2005, 02:50 PM #91
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Figured so, I didn't find anything that said they were, but I also didn't find anything that said they weren't. Thanks.
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Old 07-21-2005, 02:51 PM #92
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Chances are if I didn't mention it, it isn't important. I made a discovery when trying to poke further into a Trilogy, that the valve may very well be a spyder valve. I took out the jam nut, and it slid right out with a long screwdriver, busted knuckles, and much frustration trying to get it all the way out with an allen wrench when the screwdriver didn't work.

Looked like my VL Triton's valve. Someone got a Spyder and a Trilogy want to test this? Maybe an aftermarket Spyder valve too. Air and paint tests, noticeable cons and pros(if any), and you will get honorable mention in the sticky.
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Old 07-25-2005, 05:21 PM #93
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alright i just got my trilogy and i am thinking (in the future) that i want to make it electric... so i figure i NEED an e-blade, a bracket from tcpaintball, and a nexus kit..

is that all... do i really need a nexus kit? am i missing anything else?
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Old 07-26-2005, 01:13 AM #94
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I don't think the nexus kit will fit in trilogys because the springs are of different lengths. But aside from that, the other two will do fine. You should also look into the WGP brackets, planet eclipse sells them on their website.
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Old 07-26-2005, 02:17 AM #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Virus_Nyne
Chances are if I didn't mention it, it isn't important. I made a discovery when trying to poke further into a Trilogy, that the valve may very well be a spyder valve. I took out the jam nut, and it slid right out with a long screwdriver, busted knuckles, and much frustration trying to get it all the way out with an allen wrench when the screwdriver didn't work.

Looked like my VL Triton's valve. Someone got a Spyder and a Trilogy want to test this? Maybe an aftermarket Spyder valve too. Air and paint tests, noticeable cons and pros(if any), and you will get honorable mention in the sticky.
well that just shouldn't be. spyder valves are blowback valves, cocker valves are cocker valves. 2 different designs, and i don't really want to see a blowback cocker, we all know how the omen turned out...........
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Old 07-26-2005, 11:31 PM #96
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You know, I've torn apart my Triton(Spyder knockoff) tons of times, and never figured out how the blowback works on it. Someone fetch me a diagram or very detailed description. I'd be much obliged - because it's bothered me for years. I learned how Spyders worked by tearing it apart more times than I've shot it - but blowback was the one concept I couldn't grasp. The only thing I can see that would move the hammer/bolt assembly back was the valve spring against the hammer. And the hammer was a harder spring, coupled with the tension of the velocity adjustment screw(IVG in cockers). Didn't pan out.

I don't see any noticeable differences in the valve shapes or how they're held in the body. Maybe the valve pin is different, it's been a long time since I've gazed into a Spyder. I'll take pictures soon enough if I remember. Just of the Trilogy valve, in detail.

I was just wondering. If the valve made no difference at all, that would open up yet another avenue of upgrades to the Trilogy.
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Old 07-27-2005, 12:28 AM #97
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When you pull a trigger on a spyder the sear releases the striker and the striker uses the power from the main spring(spring behind the striker) to hit the valve. Half the air is used to shoot the paintball and the rest of the air goes straight back pushing the striker back into the locked position... viola... blowback...

To my understanding after an autococker is fired that valve redirects the air into the front of the gun to the pneumatics allowing it to recock... I am not really 100% on that because I dont feel like looking it up but I am pretty sure its right...
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Old 07-27-2005, 10:49 AM #98
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can you make the trilogy elkectric... some people told me its impossible but i found this article (http://www.paintballtimes.com/Article.asp?ID=224)... someone help me, i am confused
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Old 07-27-2005, 06:54 PM #99
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there is nothing to be confused about... people are stupid... they make a bracket for trilogies so you can eblade them.
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Old 07-27-2005, 11:58 PM #100
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ILie2Girls, I still don't "see" it. I appreciate the help.

And on the autococker, the valve doesn't do squat to the pneumatics. The air sitting behind the valve is fed into the LPR(while the inline provides more air to fill the pressure drop - because air went into the LPR and the back of the ram) and the back of the ram. The valve has no effect on recocking, or at least not on the Trilogy. I've torn apart only a Trilogy, all my understanding of autocockers have come from the signature sites we all know: Moody, Endless, CockerTech, and WGP's diagrams. From what I've gathered, the valve affects dick as far as recocking goes. The 4-way is a valve, but not the one I speak of when I mean interchanging Spyder and Cocker valves.
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Old 07-30-2005, 01:17 AM #101
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i'm a newb to cockers....what does the ram do? and why if any reason should i get a new one
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Old 07-30-2005, 01:53 AM #102
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The ram cycles the marker. And getting a new one will allow a higher ROF, a lower cocking pressure, and a smoother cycling pressure.

And just thought I'd note since I didn't see anyone mention it as I quickly scrolled through the thread (), in that second video with the kid walking the hinge frame, you should also take into account the extra resistance from the 3-way, and most of all, the main spring and hammer. The hammer and spring compensate for probably at least half the resistance in a mechanical frame. I'm not sure of the exact percentages, and it will vary between spring combinations, hammer weights, and 3-ways, but it does give you a major force to fight against. Chances are if he was firing that on an aired up marker, he wouldn't be walking so easily.
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Old 07-30-2005, 01:59 AM #103
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ahh thank u....it's a good upgrade then lol
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Old 07-30-2005, 11:25 PM #104
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i was just thinking since this is the trilogy sticky shouldn't there b a guide/explanation on timing the trilogy series, or is it the same as a normal cocker(have pitty on me i'm new to cockers and trying to learn still)
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Old 07-31-2005, 04:16 PM #105
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It's for the most part exactly like a traditional autococker. You can't time the actuator rod(4-way rod), but everything else is the same. Get a shaft kit that I've linked in the sticky to time your actuator rod, but the shaft kit isn't timeable like a traditional/mini actuator rod.
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