FAQ: The One, One Kit - PbNation
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Old 04-13-2005, 06:35 PM #1
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FAQ: The One, One Kit

Ok. In lew of the tons of emails/pms/IMs I have recieved in the last 6 months reguarding The One Kit/Marker, I have decided to write a FAQ and Upgrade Article to hopefully answer most of the common questions that will be asked, and I will expand this as needed. Lets get on with it, shall we? This may end up being quite long. (Carbine)


Q. Can I use my The One with CO2?
A. Yes and No! You will hear that CO2 can/will ruin the soleniod. This is true to a certain extent. CO2 is certainly not reccomended, the reason for this is the way that CO2 is by nature. CO2 is a liquid and a gas, and durring the exhange between one and the other, can get VERY cold. Cold tempratures is rubbers enemy! Durring rapid fire situations, you can get this freezing liquid into the solenoid, and it will ruin the seals, and can cost upwards of $60 to replace the solenoid.

Q. HPA is not available in my area, how can I lesson my chances of ruining my solenoid while running CO2?
A. If you absolutely, positively cannot get HPA in your area, there are several things you should/must do to make CO2 less dangerous to your marker. First, an Anti-Siphon tube is your friend! An Anti-Siphon tube dramatically reduces the amount of liquid that will enter the marker, and at the same time, reduce the chances of ruining your soleniod.

You can also change your regulator to one that is more CO2 friendly. The stock regulator is fine, but has been known to freeze up with rapid fire (and CO2) and this causes regulation to fail. There are several CO2 friendly regulators that will greatly improve protection, and performance.
-Bob Long Torpedo Regulator $65
-Check It Products PowerStation Regulator $65
-Palmers Pursuit Shop Stabalizer $85

Q. My Solenoid is leaking! HELP!
A. One of two things has happened. Your LPR isnt adjusted properly, or your LPR blew a seal. When tuning the LPR, back the adjuster screw on the front, all the way out (left). Next, air up your marker (at this point, it doesnt matter what your input pressure is). Next, turn your LPR pressure up slowly (right) until you hear the solenoid leak (will be a hissing noise comming from the grip frame). Now, after you hear it start to leak, back the screw out until it stops. There, LPR is set!

If your Solenoid leaks, even with the LPR adjuster screw turned all the way out, you have a bad seal in your LPR. Foruntately, you have a replacement core, closer to you than you think! Dragun used the same core for the LPR that is found in Tire Valve Stems! All you need to do is head down to your local auto parts store, ask for a "valve stem" ($2 at most). Take a pair of needle nose plyers, and unscrew it from the front. Now, unscrew your LPR cap, and you will see a very familar piece! Yep, its the same! Unscrew it with your needle nose plyers, and put in the new valve with the reverse procedure! This isnt a very common problem, so I wont go into any more detail until a later time.

Q. There is no velocity adjuster! How do I adjust velocity?
A. Very simple, and its easier than you may think! Instead of adjuster your velocity with a spring like blowbacks, you simply adjust it with input pressure! For more velocity, turn up your reg, for less velocity, turn it down. Some people preffer tuning FPS with the dwell settings, but with the stock board resetting after each shut down, it can be a hassel. Do it my way, and you will be ready to rock and roll, everytime you turn on the marker.

Q. What does "Dwell" mean?
A. Dwell is the length of time that any valve is opened. Dwell, in the case of The One, is how long the solenoid lets air into the ram sleeve. The factory setting is 6ms, I have found that this is a suitable setting, however others have found it to be too small.

Q. When I let my marker sit for a few minutes, then go to shoot, my first shot is a dud! Why??
A. This is known as "FSDO" or First Shot Drop Off. This is a problem that has plagued many high end markers. Impulses suffer from this problem more than any other marker. This problem has yet to be completely rectified, but common cures are to:
-Lube ram
-Lube all orings
-Put a drop of oil in the LPR
-Check LPR settings
-Lube bolt orings
Where I cant say exactly what causes this, these are some common fixes. I personally never had this issues with mine, but many other people have. If you have this problem, make sure you have done the above fixes, and hope it worked!

Q. What parts should be lubed?
A. ANYTHING THAT MOVES! I would put a drop of oil in the bolt orings, valve pin (where it slides in the valve). DO NOT PUT OIL IN THE ASA LIKE YOU DO WITH BLOWBACKS!!! The oil can ruin the small, delicate orings in the solenoid. Remember, if the oil is in the path of the air, it WILL get in the solenoid!

Q. What kind of lube do I use?
A. Only use DOW 33 or 55 (also known as Shocker Lube) on the ram. The ram must endure many cycles of friction, the shocker lube reduces this friction, and ensures a nice seal for the ram oring. It is ok to put a drop of oil on the bolt orings to help it slide smoother.

Q. My LCD display wont turn on, but the marker is firing, why?
A. Unfortunately, this is a common problem from Dragun Empire/OGi. Many of the LCD displays simply stopped working for no apparent reason. All I can suggest is to make sure you have a nicely charged battery, if the problem persists, contact Dragun Empire/OGI Warranty information for repair.

Q. I cant access my modes of fire, all I see is SEMI,why?
A. Some of the kits came with modes of fire, including Nitro, Auto, Semi, and Burst, but the markers do not due to the eye board. There is a method to unlock mode on the kit, however this cannot be done on the marker unless the eye board is disconnected.
(Me put this)
You can however unlock the board using a diode or using a bit risky way by using the top holes on the board and put a wire in the Top left hole and the other end go into the hole 3rd one down.
|1|2|3|4|5| Plug in only holes 1 and 3

Q. I turned on my The One Marker, and I cant get it to fire, the shot counter doesnt move.
A. The One Marker comes equiped with an ACE (Anti Chop Eye). Until there is a ball in the breech, it will not fire. You can however, turn off the eye by holding down the trigger for 10 seconds. After holding the trigger for 10 seconds, release it, and try and fire, it should. To reset the eye, turn off the marker for another 10 second, and turn it back on, the eye is now reset.

Q. I turn on my air, and my marker wont fire, the shot counter registers shot, but nothing works, why?
A. The Kits, and some of the markers, come with the LPR preadjusted all the way out. Turn the LPR to the right until you hear something leaking, then turn it to the left until it stops, the LPR is now set, and the marker should fire.

EDIT: Added
Q. When I air up my marker, it leaks from the front block area.
A. Many of the first runs of The One has a seal issue where the front block goes in the body. Even with 3 orings, air still made its way out of the VA. The only things you can really do are to wrap teflon tape around the shaft, and cram it into the body.

Sometimes the leak is comming from the VA screw. Wrap teflon tape around the screw, or add a drop of loctite. This will cure the leak.

(Thank Carbine for this)

I dont know if this is in here so that's y i'm posting this

Represent the old, long 68/45k tanks!

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Last edited by shocktroop : 04-17-2005 at 03:17 PM.
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:01 PM #2
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Re: FAQ: The One, One Kit

[quote]Originally posted by shocktroop
Q. I cant access my modes of fire, all I see is SEMI,why?
A. Some of the kits came with modes of fire, including Nitro, Auto, Semi, and Burst, but the markers do not due to the eye board. There is a method to unlock mode on the kit, however this cannot be done on the marker unless the eye board is disconnected.[quote]

you may want to add that the diode jumper will allow nitro and tell ppl how to do that
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Old 04-14-2005, 01:29 AM #3
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wut kinda solenoids can use w/the one kit?

If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun -The Dalai Lama
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Old 06-05-2005, 02:42 PM #4
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tes to t1

what exact parts do you need to convert tes to t1? estimate total cost.; thanks
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Old 06-06-2005, 05:05 PM #5
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Originally posted by DaiCa86
wut kinda solenoids can use w/the one kit?

to convert a tes to t1?

just get a Zipkit it will make it a lot easier
Get with the program strip to the slow jam slip on a Trojan kissin' the toes and move to the knees go back, repeat the job ain't done 'til you ruin the sheets
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