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Old 03-27-2001, 11:38 PM #1
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Well, here I go, time to embarass myself. I tried to do a trigger job on my autococker and failed, miserably. The gun is timed perfectly. It's the trigger plate and springs i'm having problems with.

If YOU were going to do a trigger job, how would YOU tighten up the trigger, and still leave it free to slide, and nonbinding.

I have a new benchmark .45 frame. all suggestions are welcome
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Old 03-28-2001, 01:29 PM #2
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Ok, I know most poeple liek to do there own stuff, but that is the biggest problem. Let a proshop do it. As for trigger job, get a KAPP frame. They have 3 set screws that work beutifully. I have one, and my trigger has no slop. Also get some maddman springs. They work so well and make your trigger slide like butter. But again, let your proshop help you. They do a much better job than someone telling you on the net.
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Old 03-28-2001, 03:38 PM #3
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um, isn't this a forum on the net?

i thought the reason we were here was to help, far be it for us to actually give advise....
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Old 03-28-2001, 04:15 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devaut
um, isn't this a forum on the net?

i thought the reason we were here was to help, far be it for us to actually give advise....

No disrespect to you devaut, but I did help him by telling him to let his proshop to do it for him so he can get a nice one, and I did tell him to get the kapp frame with the 3 trigger screws...... Please dont tell me what to write. Why didnt you give him any help?
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Old 03-28-2001, 05:57 PM #5
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budha

my guess is you just beat him to it.
just a thought
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Old 03-28-2001, 09:56 PM #6
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Also use fat plates they don't move around as much and try to get some that are plated ie chrome .
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Old 03-29-2001, 12:06 AM #7
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The problem is, you tell them not to do it themselves, not to trust information on the net, and then you tell them what gear to get and whatnot.

either be for it or against it, but making yourself look like you are confused isn't helping. and if they bought a cocker, they are gonna **** around with it. That's the ONE given. people who own cockers will mess them up at least 5 times before they get to the point that they know what they are doing.

as for taking a gun to a shop for trigger work, i honestly think that people should learn to time the trigger they have first THEN worry about weather or not they need to change it.

an sto plate on a benchmark/kapp/shocktech/whatever 45 frame is short enough as it is, roughly 2.5 mm shorter than an older stock trigger.

the best thing is to have clean, new, and preferably polished trigger internals. i personally prefer wgp sto trigger plates, because they are the best plate i have used so far (used them all)

-y
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Old 03-29-2001, 09:23 AM #8
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Listen to me but don't listen to what you hear on the net. Funny, why does the term army intelegence come to mind. The only time I have taken my cocker to an airsmith was to have a hole drilled into it. I am of the belief that if you buy a gun you better know how it functions or be willing to learn how it funtions. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to put together a very well functioning gun. That is why I am not impressed with alot of these so called custom cockers that are out there. How hard is it to slap a regulator, front assembly and trigger assembly on a gun? I can understand buying the pretty, but when you do you got to admit to yourself that is all your doing. I got a Kapp trigger assembly in a Dye double trigger frame and it works fine. No slop side to side and no bindind top to bottom even if I only pull with the second finger. And I didn't have an airsmith build it. It did take me a little bit to figure out how to set it but now if it goes down for one reason or another I don't have to take it to someone to have it fixed. That's a waste my money.
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Old 03-29-2001, 11:49 AM #9
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Enough already.

Maybe I should have said I that I am skilled working with anything mechanical. I AM a moderator here for some reason... The purpose of this post was to collect advice on how a proper trigger job should be done.

My mistake on this cocker's trigger job was using too many setscrews. At least so I thought. I spent some time with the gun degassed the other night and finally got the setscrews set up properly. My trigger is litterally wiggle free, and handles my 2 finger trigger with no binding. I'm rather impressed.

As for good advice, The best peice I got was from a guy using the nick pochebum. He suggested the use of shims instead of setscrews. I tried this setup (yes, I do just HAVE brass laying around) and it was quite effective, and non binding. This is what I will do with my next trigger job.

I don't have proshops work on my guns. They are the people who crack guages, scrach the body, and put dings and dents in my barrels. My Two local proshops, suck, as it comes to work on customer guns. One of them is just a army surplus store. And I was offered the job of airsmith there. The other is Bad Boyz Toyz, and they pretend that all information is propriotary, and aren't to friendly to soemone like me who doesn't want to buy a shocker. And Yes I did say shocker. (not a tribal)

No, BBT is not a good place to have gun maintnance done. And they want to charge me $50 to bend my trigger plate. This doesn't settle well with me. I'm not going to say i didn't like the westwood I shot, just, I can't justify $50 for a trigger that's going to be less than that of the westwood. Of course, BBT is also known to skimp out on any gun OTHER than that $1750 work of art.

Budda mentioned 3 trigger setscrews, but he didn't mention the possition of them. Randomly placing setscrews isn't going to help things much Of course, as I found out, putting too many doesn't help too much either. AT least if you don't spend the time necessary to place them right.

As for the equipment I do have. I have a benchmark .45 frame, fat kapp plates, a 2000 3way, and right now, 3 setscrews on each side of the trigger plate.

My real problem was not having a drill press to make all the setscrews perfectly perpendicular to the trigger plate. But it seems to have worked out ok. All the setscrews have been polished to a mirror shine, as were the sides of the trigger plate. The Fat plate happened to have nice milling mark right where one of the lower trigger screws was supposed to ride and that was causing binding, I had to polish that away, but in teh process I put a slight curve in the trigger plate. I loosened up the lower trigger screw till that ran smooth. I also polished the mating surfaces of the sear and trigger plate, that smoothed out the pull somewhat. I have a very light sear spring, and it seems to catch reliabily. The 3 way I was using needed a little oil to run smoothly. Well all in all, I've gotten the trigger working right

Devaut, thanks for the vote of confidance I've only screwed it up once. And I can still time a cocker in 5 mins or less. (of course, I screwed up my spyder 4 times trying to get it's trigger right... but that's a long story in and of itself)
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Last edited by Nerobro : 03-29-2001 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 03-29-2001, 01:36 PM #10
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ok, let me quote myself" Let your proshop do it, they can do better than someone telling you on the net" I was making a suggestion. I dont feel like getting this crap from people who I do not know. I am finished with this topic, and nembro, should have said your problems, I could have helped you a bit more if you would ahve told me what you just said.
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Old 03-30-2001, 02:30 PM #11
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The three set screws on each side might be your problem. There is a guy at the field that I play at that has messed with side set screws and through talking to him he said that when you put set screws on both sides you end up binding the trigger real easy. He just uses three on one side and lets the other side just slide against the side wall.
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Old 03-30-2001, 10:50 PM #12
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i don't know what the big deal with side to side slop is, if you own a new trigger plate and a decent new 45 frame, it shouldn't be an issue, and considering that cocker triggers slide and don't pivot, you won't have a problem with it binding save for back to front, especially with the 2000 and later style of plates....

i think the whole big deal with that came from ravi's page, cause he's kinda picky about that.

just pop in a wide plate, and play

-y
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Old 04-15-2001, 09:53 PM #13
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Wink

my advice is to put into a vice and hit it with a 20 lbs. sledge that should do the trick
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