Maybe I should have said I that I am skilled working with anything mechanical. I AM a moderator here for some reason... The purpose of this post was to collect advice on how a proper trigger job should be done.
My mistake on this cocker's trigger job was using too many setscrews. At least so I thought. I spent some time with the gun degassed the other night and finally got the setscrews set up properly. My trigger is litterally wiggle free, and handles my 2 finger trigger with no binding. I'm rather impressed.
As for good advice, The best peice I got was from a guy using the nick pochebum. He suggested the use of shims instead of setscrews. I tried this setup (yes, I do just HAVE brass laying around) and it was quite effective, and non binding. This is what I will do with my next trigger job.
I don't have proshops work on my guns. They are the people who crack guages, scrach the body, and put dings and dents in my barrels. My Two local proshops, suck, as it comes to work on customer guns. One of them is just a army surplus store. And I was offered the job of airsmith there. The other is Bad Boyz Toyz, and they pretend that all information is propriotary, and aren't to friendly to soemone like me who doesn't want to buy a shocker. And Yes I did say shocker. (not a tribal)
No, BBT is not a good place to have gun maintnance done. And they want to charge me $50 to bend my trigger plate. This doesn't settle well with me. I'm not going to say i didn't like the westwood I shot, just, I can't justify $50 for a trigger that's going to be less than that of the westwood. Of course, BBT is also known to skimp out on any gun OTHER than that $1750 work of art.
Budda mentioned 3 trigger setscrews, but he didn't mention the possition of them. Randomly placing setscrews isn't going to help things much
Of course, as I found out, putting too many doesn't help too much either. AT least if you don't spend the time necessary to place them right.
As for the equipment I do have. I have a benchmark .45 frame, fat kapp plates, a 2000 3way, and right now, 3 setscrews on each side of the trigger plate.
My real problem was not having a drill press to make all the setscrews perfectly perpendicular to the trigger plate. But it seems to have worked out ok. All the setscrews have been polished to a mirror shine, as were the sides of the trigger plate. The Fat plate happened to have nice milling mark right where one of the lower trigger screws was supposed to ride and that was causing binding, I had to polish that away, but in teh process I put a slight curve in the trigger plate. I loosened up the lower trigger screw till that ran smooth. I also polished the mating surfaces of the sear and trigger plate, that smoothed out the pull somewhat. I have a very light sear spring, and it seems to catch reliabily. The 3 way I was using needed a little oil to run smoothly. Well all in all, I've gotten the trigger working right
Devaut, thanks for the vote of confidance
I've only screwed it up once. And I can still time a cocker in 5 mins or less. (of course, I screwed up my spyder 4 times trying to get it's trigger right... but that's a long story in and of itself)