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Old 07-30-2015, 02:52 PM #1
trucker420
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Solenoid issue

Hey guys,

I have an older impulse with a parker solenoid in it. My gun stopped firing half way through the day last weekend and all signs pointed to a solenoid problem. When I got it home and took the solenoid apart, there was a small piece of shredded o-ring stuck in the spool section. This has happened to me before and resulted in a leak from the noid which was resolved by clearing out the broken o-ring piece. This time, however, after removing the broken o-ring piece, the solenoid no longer clicks when everything is reassembled.

I searched around for info on the coil and pilot sections, but didn't find anything useful. Is it safe to say that my solenoid is toast, or does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this?
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Old 07-31-2015, 02:09 AM #2
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Originally Posted by trucker420 View Post
Hey guys,

I have an older impulse with a parker solenoid in it. My gun stopped firing half way through the day last weekend and all signs pointed to a solenoid problem. When I got it home and took the solenoid apart, there was a small piece of shredded o-ring stuck in the spool section. This has happened to me before and resulted in a leak from the noid which was resolved by clearing out the broken o-ring piece. This time, however, after removing the broken o-ring piece, the solenoid no longer clicks when everything is reassembled.

I searched around for info on the coil and pilot sections, but didn't find anything useful. Is it safe to say that my solenoid is toast, or does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this?
The solenoid not clicking takes any o-rings or airflow trouble out of the equation entirely. This really leaves you with a bad battery, bad circuit board, bad wiring, or a bad solenoid. I suppose it's also possible that your trigger isn't engaging the switch on the circuit board that initiates the solenoid cycle. It should be fairly easy to determine if your battery and board are good by simply pressing the power button on the board and seeing it turn on.

In regards to actually troubleshooting a solenoid that isn't working, that's a bit beyond my "expertise". I personally would replace the solenoid before I ever tried tearing one apart to troubleshoot, but that's just me.
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Old 07-31-2015, 06:51 AM #3
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i agree with all of Freakspazz's suggestions for potential problems. But as for testing apart and trouble shooting the noid, that is pretty easy.

Do you know where the piece of oring came from?
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Old 07-31-2015, 10:27 AM #4
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I did try a fresh battery, but that didn't make a difference. I can see the cricket board LED light up as I pull the trigger with vision off, so I think the micro switch and board are okay. It doesn't look like the solenoid wires got pinched either.

The piece of o-ring came off the ram housing, near the rear. No leaks when it's aired up though, which is surprising. I guess when I pushed the ram housing back into the body, the threads cut a chunk out of that o-ring

I'll take the solenoid apart one more time in case I missed something or put a piece in backwards. It really didn't look like there was anything to troubleshoot in the coil or pilot sections.

Thanks for the replies!
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Old 07-31-2015, 02:40 PM #5
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Make sure you put the solenoid caps on correctly, they do have specific orientations. I hope its not a bad noid, that's one of my worst fears; seems like a hard part to find a replacement. I believe the noid has a button that you can press to test it. Although, I can't remember what function exactly it tests and if it needs to be aired up.
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:02 PM #6
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I took the solenoid apart a couple more times. The end cap was definitely on upside-down. After I verified everything else and flipped it around, I could hear it click again but that's about all it does. When I put air in the gun, the solenoid makes a little puff but the bolt never cycles. I tested the battery with a multimeter, it had over 9v. I cranked up the dwell, but same thing happens.
I think it might finally be done
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Old 08-04-2015, 04:11 AM #7
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I took the solenoid apart a couple more times. The end cap was definitely on upside-down. After I verified everything else and flipped it around, I could hear it click again but that's about all it does. When I put air in the gun, the solenoid makes a little puff but the bolt never cycles. I tested the battery with a multimeter, it had over 9v. I cranked up the dwell, but same thing happens.
I think it might finally be done
I wouldn't give up just yet. The solenoid clicking again is a good sign. This now seems like something easy. That o-ring is definitely still suspect. Starting with the silly/obvious stuff, your air tank is screwed in and ASA turned on? Did you check your output pressure from your HPR/LPR? Is your valve facing the correct direction? Have you tried another battery, just in case?

While degassed, Ggrab the bolt pint and slide it forwards. Do you feel it push the valve open when you apply sufficient pressure?
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:03 PM #8
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hpa tank has 2.5k. no leaks when I gas it up. The HPR gauge shows about 150psi. LPR is turned about half way. Dwell anywhere from 7-20ms just makes a small click and puff right where the solenoid is. To me is seems like there is something blocking passage of air to/from the solenoid but I can't find it. I stuck the smallest allen key through the air holes in the body but didn't find any more oring shards.

The valve works but there isn't enough pressure getting through the solenoid to even send the ram forward. The other thing that sucks is amidst taking the solenoid apart many times, the little white manual release mechanism on the solenoid fell out and got lost.
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:24 PM #9
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Any chance you have a video of it when you try to fire? I think your noid is still good, but its hard to talk where the problem is when reading about it.

The original problem was the solenoid not clicking due to oring. You took the oring out but put the cap on upside down. Once you fixed the cap, its clicking again. My thinking is that the original problem should be solved, something else happened while trying to troubleshoot before. My suggestion, tear it down again and reassemble according to the manual, don't mess with the solenoid at all. Do you remember seeing the gasket under the noid, not sure what the marker does without that, but you might have left it out when working on the solenoid.
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:56 AM #10
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I haven't quite given up yet. I think an oring overhaul is worth a try.

I'll try to make a quick video tonight but it's just like I described; solenoid clicks but when it's aired up it just makes a quiet puff.

I guess it's possible that while it is not leaking air (that I can hear) one or more of the orings are allowing pressure past them and holding the ram back.
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Old 08-08-2015, 08:45 AM #11
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I haven't quite given up yet. I think an oring overhaul is worth a try.

I'll try to make a quick video tonight but it's just like I described; solenoid clicks but when it's aired up it just makes a quiet puff.

I guess it's possible that while it is not leaking air (that I can hear) one or more of the orings are allowing pressure past them and holding the ram back.
Some of the Impulse OGs aren't here anymore and I wish I could help more. I'm personally suspicious of a failed noid at this point.

Have you tried a different HPR, just to be sure? Is it the old Max-Flow regulator?
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Old 08-08-2015, 01:06 PM #12
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Thumbs down

Here's a video of what's happening.



It's a CP reg and it seems to be regulating. Swapping the orings made no difference. I believe the solenoid got damaged.

Giving up for now. I'll have to try to find a replacement solenoid for a reasonable price to get this shooting again.

Thank you all for your help and suggestions.
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:17 AM #13
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They are floating around on the interwebs. Good luck!
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:39 PM #14
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IT'S A RAT!
I think you're pressure may just be too low. I've heard of people getting their operating pressure down to 150, but that's through the LPR.

Try putting you're dwell at maybe 14 ms, bump your HPR up to ~200 psi. from here, you should be able to adjust the LPR and get it cycling correctly again. If you have another gauge to measure the pressure of the LPR out of the back, it might need to be at about 150 there. Again, it won't be tuned, but it should work. After trying this, my guess would be the noid, but please try this first.

For the record, my Cave Rat is set to 14 ms at 200 psi and 150ish lpr. This puts my velocity at 280 +- 3 with a hyper 3 reg and WAS board. These settings are not the most efficient I've seen for the impulse, but it's the best I could do with mine.

An excellent source for all things impulse (in case you haven't tried it) and the page I used to set mine.
Impulse-Owners.com
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