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Old 03-01-2005, 03:24 PM #1
drefish99
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What Are The Best Upgrades For My Spyder?

Check here - http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=670382

and read this - http://www.ottersccustoms.com/spyder.html

Please feel free to post more usefull info for our newest Members. The start of our FAQ.

IF IT ISN'T HELPFUL INFO IT WILL BE DELETED

DO NOT POST QUESTIONS HERE THIS IS INFORMATIONAL
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Old 03-01-2005, 03:39 PM #2
E99_Curt
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i think that the most important things for a spyder are

barrel
clamping feedneck
bolt

after that, i would only put things on it that can be transfered to your next gun (nitro tank, fast loader, good reg, comfy drop/rail setup)

once you get into valves, VAs, grips, etc. you start pourin money into a spyder that you will never get back, so unless you dont plan on getting a new gun in the next year or two, i wouldnt advise dumpin too much money into the spyder. playing is more important.
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Old 03-01-2005, 03:55 PM #3
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This is the ultimate upgrade list for anyone new to Spyders. It is right to the point, and is easy for anyone to understand.

Good Barrels

Value - J & J Ceramic, SP Progressive
Mid End - SP All-American, Dye Boomstick
High End - Empire Barrel Kit, Any other Kit

Good Hoppers

Value - 12v Revolution, Empire Reloader (Agitated Gravity Feed, 10-14bps)
Mid End - Evolution 2, Apache (Semi-Force Feed, 16-20bps)
High End - Halo B, Reloader B, Q-Loader (Full Force Feed, 20+ Bps)

High Pressure Air Tanks

Value - Any 47/3000psi Tank
Mid/High End - Any Crossfire or PMI tank, must be "High" Pressure, often indicated by a red band around the tank reg.

Feednecks

Value - Lapco, Phat, Checkit Adapter
High End - New Designs Clamping Feedneck, Check-It Clamping Feedneck

New Boards

T-Board
XSF Board Kit
IS Board (No longer for sale)

Stock Boards shoot under 15bps. There is no way to uncap them. You must get a new board to use eyes and to shoot faster.

Good Triggers/Switches

Value - Modded Stock Trigger
Mid/High End - ACP Thrasher/Slasher Triggers, ACP Lexblade, Check-It Sweet Spot Trigger, Shocktech Stick Trigger.

Switches - The switch behind the trigger is what the trigger hits to tell the board to fire. The stock switch is around 250grams of pull. You can buy 25 and 50 gram switches from/with the site that sell the T-Board and XSF Kit. You can also stretch the spring in your stock switch to lighten it. Lighter switches = Faster, easier shooting.

Good Bolts

Value - Shocktech Supafly Bolt, Tigershark Bolt, Venturi-Removed Stock Bolt.
Mid/High End - ACP Blue Bolt, AKA Lightning Bolt
AntiChop Bolts - Kingman ACS Bolt, JAM Bolt (Jam is better of the 2)

Good Valves

Value - New Designs HP Valve, Drilled Stock Valve
Mid End - 32 Degrees Valve
High End - AKA Tornado Valve, Maddman Rocket Valve (WARNING -THESE VALVES REQUIRE A VERY LOW PRESSURE TO OPERATE, ANY MORE THAN 400PSI WILL POTENTIALLY BREAK THESE VALVES)

Good Regs

Value - Stock Autococker Reg, WGP Ergo Reg
Mid End - Bob Long Topedo Reg, PMI THOR reg
High End - CP Reg, AKA Sidewinder Reg, AKA 2Liter Reg, Palmers Stabalizer

The ONLY c02 Friendly Regs

Stock Cocker Reg/WGP Ergo Reg
AKA Sidewinder Reg
Bob Long Torpedo Reg
Palmers Stabalizer Reg

Do it yourself Mods

There are countless Do-It yourself mods you can do. The most popular mods are called Low Pressure mods. They are done to drastically decrease the operating pressure of your Spyder from 800psi, to sometimes around 250psi. These can be done by increasing the flow of air to your gun. All aftermarket parts you may buy (only internally) will mostlikely increase flow, but you can really save a few bucks by doing it yourself. There is a complete walkthru at www.ottersccustoms.com Remember to donate to Otter to keep his kick *** site up.

Most of these things are common around the Buy/Sell/Trade Forums a couple of spaces down from the Kingman forums. Save yourself a lot of money and buy from there. If it is requested, I can upgrade the list and add more stuff...
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Last edited by Mr. SparkleIsBack : 03-01-2005 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 03-01-2005, 05:22 PM #4
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http://www.ottersccustoms.com/project.html

There is the low pressure mod link.
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Old 03-01-2005, 08:12 PM #5
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Up-grading a spyder is a very simple but can be confusing at first. here are some suggestions of upgrades and why. I have also put these up-grdaes in order of importance. there might be couple that other ight suggest first but these are againin my opinion of importance. I would also like to say that you should never up-grade or spend to much on you Spyder if it will prevent you from playing, that is first of all the reason why you up-grade, to play.

1) The Barrel. Most stock Spyder barrels are never the best option when looking at barrels. Barrels are usually the first up-grade to be made by most Spyder owners. A few commonly recomended barrels are the J&J ceramic barrel, Any Smart Parts or DYE barrels. all these barrels are excellent choices. Most ballers on a budget go with the J&J ceramic barrel. if you are not on a budget you can go with either of the three barrels. it has been my experience that all barrels perform about the same, only main difference being that the J&J is cheaper and that the DYE and SP barrels come in other colors than black.

2) The Hopper. When talking about hoppers it is always a best to be no partial, i will try. I t is recomended that a person get a good electronic hopper, this will allow you to have a somewhat steady flow of balls in your Spyder and therfore avoiding chops. Her are alist of hoppers in no particular order.The Evolution & Eevolution II, The Revolution, Halos, Reloaders and the Apache. There is much debate on what hopper isthe best. My suggestion is try them out, see what you like and see what you can afford. I will say that it is good to invest in a good hopper because it is one of the few things that you actually put on another marker. It should also be noted that there are various upgrade that can be done to the hoppers themselves, i suggest looking in the Hopper forum if interested in more information.

3) The Switch and Trigger.I have put these two together because they help achieve the same goal, getiing the max out of your stock board. The swith is the little nub that is located right behind the trigger, when the switch is pressed by the trigger the switch releases the sear and the sear release the hammer wich allows for a shot to be fired. The stock switch on Spyders are 250g switchs. this means that it takes a weight of 250g to activate the switch, this may seem like a small amount of wight but it can mean the difference of how many balls per second you can shoot. These switches come in many other weights. the more commonly use switches are the 50g and 25g switchs. personaly the 25g switch seems a little to light and dangerous to me, that is why preffer the 50g switch. I rewally comes dwon to personal preference. The switches can be found pre-soldered at www.scenariodream.com and from drefish99 on this forum. these switches are also available at your local Radioshack but those require soldering. As for triggers, there has been a recent surge in triggers available for spyders. here is a list of manufacturers of some awsome triggers. be sure to check with each of them to see if they are compatable with your marker. Any ACP trigger, Check It Products sweet spot trigger, Sundragon magnetic triggers and Shocktech.
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Old 03-01-2005, 09:31 PM #6
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if its hard for you to debate whether its good or not check the reviews at www.pbreview.com this helped me speed up the decision making process....
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Old 03-02-2005, 12:04 PM #7
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4)The grips. this isint really a performance up-grade but more of a comfort upgrade, therefrore this upgrdae can be skipped if you feel thst ther is no need for them. On many Spyders the grips that come stock on the electronic trigger frame are usually flimsy and do very little to protect the electronics. i would defenitly recomend getting new grips. in my opinion the best grips in bothe feel and looks are the DYE stcikie grips. these grips come in various colors but more importantly allow you to get a firm grip on to your marker. this upgrade again will not improve your guns performance, only for comfort and protectionof you electronics.

5) Commpressed air. Most people when starting to play will use C02 as there air source. Commpressed air is just that, air. air is recomended over CO2 for many reasons, first of all air is more consistent than C02. C02 is most of the time a liquid and needs time and space to expand in to gas. more consistency in air means less chops and a more constant speed in your marker. Compressed air will also allow you to play during cold weather, C02 usually freezes up and will not function properly in cold weather. C02m can also cause damage to your markers internals and o-rings because of the coldness of the gass. Air is clean, constant and re-liable. i will say that Compresed air tanks are not cheap, have seen some start at $60 and climb up from there. there pricier but well worth it. Again this is one of the few items that can be put on another marker later on.

6) Feed necks. Feed necks that usually come on spyder straight out suck. Spyders usually coem with a plastic elbow that has clamp on both sides. one side to clamp to your marker and the other end clamps on your hopper. this usually results in having you hopper a good 5inch above your marker. although this all preferennce most people prefer to have the hopper be as low as possible. this will allow the player to get a better shot without getting shot in the hopper themself. Just like triggers ther has been a sudden surge of companies making feednecks for Spyders. there are also various methods that a feedneck can use to keep a loader on. ther are clamping feed necks, heck lock feed necks and adapters. there are various others that i cant remember now. comapnies that make good after market feed necks are New Dezigns, Trinity paintball, Lapco, Hybrid, Check It Products and Phat performance. be sire to ask wich one would fit your marker. there are variuous styles, feedneck with ears with no holes, feednecks with holes in ears and a couple of others. just ask them nicely and im sure they will be happy to answer your every question.

7) The Bolt. The bolt is basiclaly what propells the ball from your marker and into your opponets face mask. There are many bolts available. most are made of a Derlin or other plastci type materials. if upgrading from the stock aluminum bolt, it is recomended to go with a derlin, tephlon, nylatron or other plastic type material bolt. thsi will prevent scratching in the chamber and will probably be lighter therfore increasin you cycle time. there are also other type of blots that help in preventing chops. one is the Kingman ACS bolt and the other being the JAM bolt. out of these two most people recomednt the JAM, the kingman requires some breaking in of the internal spring

The 7 upgrdaes i have listed are in my opinion the first 7 upgrade that should be done to most spyders. good luck with upgrading and have fun playing.
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Old 03-03-2005, 05:23 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by iamscarygrrr
alright so i got REALLY bored and i started to take pics of my/brothers spyder parts, then assembled it into a huge post. enjoy

Part: Feedneck
Purpose: Hold the hopper
Location: On top of the body near the barrel. Sometimes at a powerfeed angle, about 45*
Modifications: Hole drilled into the side for blowback relief
Upgrade result: Lower, clamping feednecks

Part: Barrel
Purpose: Guide paint accurately
Location: Top tube, in front of everything else
Modifications: None
Upgrade result: More accurate, lighter, quieter

Part: Body
Purpose: Hold gun together
Location: Right in the middle, where everything is connected
Modifications: Milling
Upgrade result: Higher tolerances, milling

Part: Bolt
Purpose: Propel the paint using the air traveling through it
Location: Inside the top tube of the body
Modifications: Curved inner lip, venturi removal
Upgrade result: Lower operating pressure, less wear, less chops

Part: Frame
Purpose: Release the striker, allowing a shot
Location: Under the body, behind the v/a
Modifications: Board, switch, grips, trigger, shimming the solenoid, polishing the sear
Upgrade result: Higher BPS, lighter trigger pull, comfort

Part: Striker
Purpose: Hit the valve pin, allowing a cycle
Location: Inside the body, in the lower tube, between the valve and the velocity adjuster
Modifications: Cupped face, mill unnecessary meat, polishing
Upgrade result: Less kick, lower operating pressure

Part: Cup seal
Purpose: Seal the valve, ending the cycle
Location: On the valve pin, in the body in the bottom tube, near the valve
Modifications: None
Upgrade result: Never needs to be replaced

Part: Valve
Purpose: Distribute air through the marker, to the striker, bolt, and cup seal areas
Location: In the bottom tube, in between the v/a and the striker
Modifications: Drilling bigger hole
Upgrade result: Lower operating pressure

Part: Regulator/expansion chamber
Purpose: Regulate air/let co2 to expand
Location: Underneath the v/a
Modifications: None
Upgrade result: Lower operating pressure, consistency, nicer feel, no liquid co2

Part: Valve pin
Purpose: Guide the cup seal, get hit by the striker
Location: On cup seal, inside valve, lower tube, and body
Modifications: Mill down unneeded parts
Upgrade result: Lower operating pressure

Part: Main spring
Purpose: Launch the striker
Location: In the bottom tube, partially in the striker and velocity adjuster
Modifications: None
Upgrade result: Lower pressure, adjustable dwell

Part: Valve spring
Purpose: Push on the cup seal and valve pin, insuring no cycles happen until the striker hits the valve pin
Location: In the bottom tube, partially in the v/a, on the cup seal
Modifications: None
Upgrade result: Lower pressure, adjustable dwell

Part: Vertical Adapter
Purpose: Connects the reg/x chamber to the valve area, holds lpc in, stores air, holds valve spring
Location: In between the lpc, reg, and valve
Modifications: Drilling flow holes to a bigger diameter
Upgrade result: Lower operating pressure, 15* more ergonomic

Part: Low pressure chamber
Purpose: Store extra air
Location: On the v/a, towards the front of the gun
Modifications: None
Upgrade result: Faster cycling

Part: Detent
Purpose: Keep paint from rolling out of the barrel, stop double feeds
Location: On the side of the body, near the feedneck
Modifications: Dual detents
Upgrade result: No double feeding


Thanks to my brother, eyee, for most of the parts for pictures.

Please leave any questions, comments, etc.
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:24 PM #9
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Striping anno - http://www.carbineshornet.com/stripped.htm
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Old 03-06-2005, 08:12 PM #10
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alright i got soem pics of some stuff you can buy for your spyder

you can see the grips... those are dye sticky 3 grips for spyders

the on/off is a check it unimount. you need to buy and adapter or drill and tap for it to fit

the trigger is an acp thrasher
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Old 03-14-2005, 04:58 PM #11
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don't waist your money on anything other then a new delrin bolt because the aluminum one will ruin the reciever. but if you actually find out you like paintball and want to be better you have to get a better gun because spyders are beginer guns and you'll end up buying a new one and having 350$ poured into a pos spyder. ( trust me i know)
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Old 03-16-2005, 04:52 PM #12
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barrel and reg are the two main upgrades you can do for your gun. The ups i have are a sp progressive, dye stickies, and a trinity drop. I had a max flow but i had some recharging issues so i ditched it.
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Old 03-23-2005, 03:42 PM #13
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Barrel
drop
reg
bolt
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:30 PM #14
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Orange makes a bolt for pretty much every Spyder available. Their bolts have a unique feature in the o ring setting...it is adjustable so to eliminate the blow back.
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:30 PM #15
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Exclamation Spyder Upgrades

Ok if you ever want to be succesful in the game of paintball you want speed.
Buy the new Rocking Trigger Frame for you spyder. But before you buy the trigger you want the hopper to feed. I suggest the Halo B. If it chops, buy a good barrel, still chops buy new bolt, after that if it still chops buy Compressed air. That is all i got to say!


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Old 04-17-2005, 06:33 PM #16
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The thing about co2 is that its slowly breaking you gun
because its so cold. Its slowly freezing your parts
causing them to not work. Therefore Compressed air
or Nitro is neccesary!
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Old 04-19-2005, 06:23 PM #17
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for those of you who plan on buying regs, keep your operating pressure in mind

stock spyders operate off about 800 psi, and many of todays regs do not go that high
torpedos go to 600, 500 for cps

check the max operating pressure before you buy, otherwise you will end up starving your gun
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:07 PM #18
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hey curt for how much are u selling that aswome grip?
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:08 PM #19
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drefish99 how much is it for the grip?
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Old 05-01-2005, 02:27 AM #20
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WOW so many people say totally different things for the best upgrades lol, wow i say

get a new bolt (Shocktech Supafly) love this bolt
hopper: Apache loader
Barrel: prefferably a DYE boomstick, but there expensive
Board: get a t-board w/eyes, they will help you out alot, raises your guns BPS to 36 instead of a 10-15, depending on your gun..

thats what i say u should get, that would be ownage
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:50 PM #21
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my .02

Barrel:
Get a nice two pice like a Dye UL if you really like paintball, so you can just buy a new back when you upgrade. If your not sure get a CP one pice, then J&J ceramic then a SP barrel.

Hopper:
Again if you think you'll get a better gun then buy a nice hopper like an evolution 2 or a HALO but all you need is a 12V.

Feedneck:
I'd only get one if you play hard, and throw your gun around. Breaking one of those plastic ones is easy to do and really sucks

Board:
The T-board is a great board, but I would have to say just not worth it. A spyder has so much kick,that anything over 13bps gets you horrable accuracy.
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