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Old 08-09-2003, 10:51 AM #106
edwin247
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Re: Magnetic trigger mod - cheap and easy!

I HOPE THIS WORKS

I just thought it would be nice being here where everyone could find it very easily.

Quote:
Originally posted by Have Blue
Seems like magnetic triggers are one of the big fads in guns right now, and I've been wanting to try doing one on a Tribal for some time, even though it really wouldn't change the trigger feel a whole lot (as this method uses repelling magnets, not attracting ones like the E-Mag). The circular counterbore in the Tribal frame forward of the trigger (where the trigger spring sits) always looked to me like a perfect spot for a magnet to sit, and it is!

Here's the three magnets you'll need to get (may as well get a bunch, as they cost a fraction of what shipping and handling will run you):
http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin...catalogno=0058
http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin...catalogno=0065
http://www.wondermagnets.com/cgi-bin...catalogno=0048

The first two are 1/4" dia. and go into that 1/4" counterbore in the frame:

If you want a super light pull you can use a single 1/16" thick magnet. For a slightly heavier pull, use a single 1/8" thick magnet. For a still heavier pull, use both the 1/8" and 1/16" magnets together:

(note that even with two magnets, the pull is stiil light in comparison to a spring).

The tiny little gold plated magnet gets attached to the tang of the trigger itself:


To make certain that the trigger magnet would stay in place, I used a 1/8" end mill to give a slight counterbore to the trigger for the magnet to rest in. I then superglued it in place. You can probably get away with just superglue, but I wanted to make it a nice professional install.

The hardest part is simply putting the trigger back into the frame without having the frame magnets snap out and attach themselves to the trigger magnet! To do this, drop the trigger straight down into place instead of jockeying it into position from the rear. Tap the trigger pin back into place and you're done!
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Old 08-21-2003, 03:39 PM #107
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Resoldering a switch

Here are a few comments from another thread regarding soldering!!!

These techniques can be used for general soldering of the wires on the board (i.e. battery wires)

A Clean tip on your soldering iron helps. Alway have a wet/damp paper towel or cellulose sponge for wiping the crud off your tip. The tip should be very shiny. If it is black/brown or not shiny, your tips is dirty and must be cleaned before trying to solder.

All you have to do is heat the soldered wires with the iron and it should come off the switch very easy (unless the wire was actually wrapped through the hole). Tin the new switch (this means heat the new switch lug and apply a little solder before attempting to reattach the wire). Then place the wire on the new switch lug and heat once again. Let cool. Do the same for both wires. It is very easy when you have a clean tip.

Ok yeah, buy very thin solder, not that thick stuff for copper pipes. I use solder that is 0.020, 0.030, and 0.040 inches in diameter. Radio Shack most likely has solder (maybe not that thin). They should have 0.060 at least.

Edit: I am currently using 0.020 and 0.025 diameter solder

LMK, if you have questions.
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Old 10-19-2003, 12:16 AM #108
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HOW TO INSTALL A LOW PRESSURE CHAMBER (LPC) or VOLUMIZER

See this link to my Twister:
http://www.gulfxray.com/Tribal_Produ...tlpcandgun.jpg
See link to Tribal manual --- detailed drawing in particular
http://www.airsoldier.com/tribalmanual.pdf


1st. I am assuming that you have an Stock AOC
2nd. I am assuming that you drilled and taped your ASA.

You need to remove the following in this order:
Macroline
Vertical High Pressure Regulator pt#73
ASA pt#65 Brass Screw
ASA pt#64 (You should be to this point if you already have this part taped for a LPR)
AOC Cap pt#31 (Use a two-prong tool, needle nose pliers, or two allen wrenches)
AOC Plunger pt#29
AOC Spring pt#28
AOC Body pt#27
Valve Guide Spring pt#23
8-32 Grub Screw pt#32

You will need the following to reassemble:
LPC
LPR
8-32 Hose Barb
1/16" Dia. ID Hose
Teflon Tape
Locktite

Reassembly:
1. Put Barb Fitting where in place of pt#32. Use Blue or Red Loctite to seal.
2. Screw your LPR into the ASA until it is tight and the hose barb lines up nicely with the other hose barb as you will need to connect these after you finish assembly.
3. You can now reassemble ASA, Vertical Regulator, and macro line.
4. Lube LPC with Dow, or any grease of you preference.
5. Hold gun vertical, as if you are going to shoot into the ground. Place the Valve Guide Spring on the tip of the LPC and carefully slide the LPC into the AOC cavity. It should slide in fairly easy. Turn Clockwise to screw in.
6. Attach your LPR hose to the hose barb on the marker.
7. Air the gun up and adjust your low pressure to 100 psi, or whatever pressure your gun works at.

That should be it.
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Last edited by edwin247 : 10-19-2003 at 12:18 AM.
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Old 11-02-2003, 12:43 PM #109
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How to connect a Fury Eye

This info is a copy of the original thread. Origin of info as noted;

Have Blue posts:
Okay, I think this should work:



The red dot is for +5vdc to the eye. The blue dot is for 0vdc to the eye. The white dot is the signal from the eye.

If you connect up an Omron EE-SPY411 with a EE-1006 connector, you would connect the brown wire to the red dot, the blue wire to the blue dot, and the black wire to the white dot.

Oh, I should also note that although the board pictures is a V1E, I noted pin locations for the micro itself. So if you have a Fury in just about any board type, those locations should work.
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Old 11-02-2003, 12:49 PM #110
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Fury eye continued

XxRaWlDoGxX posts:
WOW that is awsome ......
Blue is there a lag if any?
Timmee how did you mount the EYE?

Have Blue replies:
A lag? Between when the eye detects a ball and when it finally fires? There's an adjustable delay time on the Fury for that...

Then (RT)-ChristIsKing asks:
Blue, can you use a Fury Eye on the stock v1E chip or do you have to have the fury chip?

Blue responds with:
Stock v1E chips have no provision for an eye. You must use a Fury.

Then Ocelot123 wants to know:
are those slots that need to be soldered open on the board or do they have something there already?

So blue sez:
They have pins there already, so you'll have to be careful when soldering.

And finally Timmee replies to XxRaWlDoGxX:
Well, when I bought the marker, it already came set up with the eye. There is a slot drilled in the body, with 2 threaded holes (one on either side of the slot) where the eye physically attaches. The slot is for the eye's IR beam. When I get my digital camera back from a friend, I'll take a pic of it.

BTW, sorry about the lateness of my reply, I'd lost track of this thread, and only an email notification let me know that it was still active.
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Last edited by Kansas Kaos : 11-02-2003 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 11-26-2003, 07:08 PM #111
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hey my bolt wont go back all the way and beause of it the balls wont feed should i buy a diffent bolt or what
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Old 11-26-2003, 08:18 PM #112
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You hammer may be unscrewing from your ram shaft causing the bolt to be to much forward. Also you may need to change the dampener oring to a smaller size (if you have one on of course).
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Old 12-07-2003, 08:10 AM #113
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Usefully info from Haveblue on Tribal Feednecks

Quote:
Originally posted by Have Blue
Quick note on threads...

Tribal feeds are 28 tpi
B2k feeds are 32 tpi

The NW 'Bushmaster +' feeds are around 30tpi to fit a variety of guns. Not a perfect match for the Tribal, admittedly, but it's about the best we got right now.

Back when people were looking for high rises in Tribal threads, I had asked CCM for pricing on a run, but it turned out to be more expensive than I could handle, so I went to Nicky instead and thus the Bushmaster+ feeds were born...
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Old 12-16-2003, 07:17 PM #114
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Tribal Valve Tool Tip

Here's a little tip for those of you that haven't already ruined your Tribal '2-pin' tool. The pins are REALLY soft and too long. Carefully file them down so that the body of the tool rests against the face of the ram cap. This will reduce the chance of the pins bending and of the tool slipping out and scratching up the face of the ram cap (like I already managed). Adding a piece of electrical tape to the face of the tool will give a little extra insurance as well. Doc Nickel makes a super nice replacement if you want a heavy duty one.

If you need extra leverage, drill a hole thru the knurled side so you can use a cheater bar (allen wrench or screwdriver works). Had to do this on my ram because it had been loctited shut. Be advised that this is a REALLY good way to bend the pins and scratch up your ram cap.
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Last edited by Scarecrow : 12-16-2003 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 12-17-2003, 09:05 AM #115
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As a quick addendum to Scarecrow's post, it may be possible to yank out the pins on the 2-prong tool and replace them with a stronger material. Doc's tools use piano wire, and the stuff simply does not bend.
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Old 12-31-2003, 01:17 AM #116
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which part is the noid, in which picture?
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Old 12-31-2003, 09:59 AM #117
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the solenoid is gray and balck, it looks like a box.

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Old 01-10-2004, 11:23 AM #118
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Tribal HPR Rebuild

Ok, I had to repair four Tribal HPRs, and here is what I did:

Tools Needed:
1. C-Clip Removal Tool
2. 5/32 Allen Wrench
3. 1000 Grit Sand Paper
4. Small Shaft (less than 1/4"). I used a nail from a nail gun, and jus cut the head off.
5. Tape
6. Gold Gup
7. Dow 33
8. Rebuld kit for Airsoldier (Possible)
9. Special Made Puller
10. Drill



A. Remove the C-Clip.
B. Remove the Down Regulator Plunger with the puller (part #9), and spacers, springs, washers and etc.
C. Remove the Down Regulator Exhaust Valve also with the puller.
D. Remove the Down Regulator Adjustment Screw.
E. Clean the striped Regulator.
F. Tape a piece of sand paper to the shaft, chuck it to your drill, add a few drops of GC oil (any oil will do), and sand the area where the Down Regulator Exhaust Valve sits to remove all the burrs.
G. Add a chamfer to Down Regulator Exhaust Valve as shown in Airsoldier Tech Notes:
http://www.airsoldier.com/technotes/...e2/index.shtml
H. Replace damaged or worn orings, or replace everything that is included with Airsoldiers rebuild kit.
I. Reassemble in reverse order.

Note on Puller:
I used a 316 Stainless Steel Welding Rod, made a triangle handle on one side and bent the other end about 110 degrees. You must make a sharp bend at the end. I used a needle nose pliers and also a vice and a hammer to get the sharp corner. I then used a grinder to get the right diameter to fit in the seat.

It works great!!! Much better than trying to use a paper clip to push the valve out from the adjustment screw hole. I think that is where half the problems come from. When you push with a paper clip, you can actually scratch the inside where the valve slides up and down.
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Old 01-14-2004, 08:09 PM #119
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HRP Removal Tips

Ok, I have always had problems removing the HPR and macroline fitting ASA adapter. So here are a few things I found that helped me a lot.

The two tools that I like to use are:
1. Soft Jaw Channel Lock Pliers (Snap-On)
2. Small Spanner Wrench (MSCdirect.com) commonly used for adjusting micrometers.




The spanner wrench fits into the vent hole of the HPR close to the top threads and/or the hp adjustment screw. Be careful when using the spanner wrench in the hp adjustment screw hole as you can damage the threads if your not careful.

To take off the HPR from the ASA adapter, just use the spanner wrench in the adjustment hole and twist.



To take off the macroline fitting ASA adapter, put the spanner wrench in the vent hole near the top of the hpr, and the soft jaw pliers on the knurled cap,
and twist.



If you have any suggestions to make this better, just PM me and I will edit.
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Old 01-29-2004, 03:33 PM #120
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"1. Soft Jaw Channel Lock Pliers (Snap-On)"

Can you get this at SEARS or Home Depo?
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Old 02-05-2004, 06:59 PM #121
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yes yes, or vise grips...locking pliers
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Old 02-07-2004, 08:21 AM #122
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My solenoid blew-up

before:

after

Last edited by P8ntball_89 : 02-07-2004 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 03-14-2004, 08:51 AM #123
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Recommended Tribal Tune up / Troubleshooting Kit.

This is HaveBlues roaming tool kit, but it has everything you will need to tune your Tribal at your house, save the stickers (no marked improvements with the addition of the sticker ).

Quote:
Originally posted by Have Blue
Okay, the roving tool kit has been revamped and is ready to go...



From left to right from the top...
* ASP stickers - make sure you take one to slap on your hopper!
* AOC plunger extractor
* stock 2-prong tool
* MacDev ram gauge
* inline reg gauge
* stock AOC plunger extractor
* RadarChron!
* Doc Nickel 2-prong tool and AOC extractor
* AOC gauge
* LPR gauge
Three types of Low Pressure gauges are shown:
**Ram LP Gauge will test any LP setup but you can't cycle your Tibal so you can't see your recharge.
**AOC LP Gauge will test only AOC or LPR/LPC setups, and you can cycle the marker.
**Inline LP Gauge will test any Autocoker LPR with ASP LPR Adapter and Autococker LPR/LPC setups. you can cycle your Marker.

**HP Inline ---A MUST--- It will show you the actual Hp out of your vertical regulator, and recharge. It will also show the phenomenon of higher pressures doesn't mean higher fps. Great for sweat-spotting the regulator.

**Radar Chrony --- uumm Do you want to tune your gun at the field or at home? Nuff Said.

**Various Tools for taking your stuff in and out of your Tribal.


Get a complete set of Tuning Tools for your Tribal and you will love Tribals just as many of us do. Don't get a set of tools and stay clueless!!
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Last edited by edwin247 : 03-14-2004 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 04-17-2004, 10:51 PM #124
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i need help

im sitting here w/ my Tribal 2.0 Twister (originally m98persons) and i finally have it all gassed up and ready to go but its not working. it has a front autococker LPR adaptor thats been plugged, but it still has an open barb. if i pull the bolt back and throw it forward by hand the gun will pop off a shot, but not recock. when its gassed up it doesnt cock the bolt either..
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Old 04-24-2004, 10:40 AM #125
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Alright Boys and Girls here is the PDF schematic of the V1E board set.

Tribal ViE Board Set
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Old 05-13-2004, 11:21 PM #126
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Here's some helpful info on ASA screws.

I posted a while back showing what happens when you tighten down an asa screw that has been drilled out to .250". It snapped in half and the drilling was way over what it should have been for the wall strength of the screw. There is another issue that has come to my attention with the .250" drilled out asa screws. The tip of it becomes to weak to hold the AOC in place between the LP and HP sides of it. The HP will push the AOC forward and crush in the tip of the ASA screw. Since the entire AOC assembly moves forward a good amount, the LP passage is blocked off and asa result, no LP air ever reaches the solenoid. Here are some pictures of what happens. This is just a warning, if you are going to drill out your stock brass asa screw, only go to about .200". The stainless steel ones that Edwin makes should be fine, as stainless steel has a much higher tensil strength than brass.

The two on the left have a crushed in tip while the one on the right has snapped completely in half. The bottom picture shows how the AOC has moved forward of where it should be as a result from the crushed in tip of the asa screw.


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