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Old 04-02-2003, 04:27 PM #64
Paint Bull
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do you need all that fatty meat on the hammer?

http://www.pbnation.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=640270

would there be any point in slimming it down between the orings... lighter?

Anyone got idea?

Thanks,
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Old 04-02-2003, 05:48 PM #65
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I think Rich lightens them somewhat when he works on them in the FFE, but you can't lighten it too much other wise you won't have enough momentum for the hammer to push open the valve.
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:31 PM #66
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Decreasing the mass of the hammer would mean better efficiency ONLY if you could lower the cocking pressure enough. This can be done somewhat by using a cocker lpr, valve mod, asa screw, decreasing bolt weight/mass yadda yadda... but has anyone ever thought about enlarging the air passages inside the body? I think it might help, but then again it might not. Oh well just thought I would throw this out there.

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edit: Oops messed up! Actually you would have to also lower the working pressure - by that I mean the pressure used to launch the paintball coming from the HPR. This is what keeps the cup seal pressed against the valve that the hammer must act uppon.

The question still stands about enlarging the air passages.
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Last edited by Rampage : 04-03-2003 at 02:26 AM.
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:35 PM #67
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It would increase flow, but you would NOT want to enlarge the solenoid outputs any what-so-ever. The increase in the larger diameter to the ram will for one make it cycle slower because of gas expanding prematurely on its way to the ram and it will use more gas getting to the ram. Basically the only passage you'd want to enlarge is the long channel down the side of the body back to the solenoid. Even if you did that, I don't know how much of a performance increase you'd get out of all that work.
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:38 PM #68
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Yeah that was the one I had in mind. Good thinkin there Andy... maybe I should make a Tribal quiz and see if you would pass

-Joe
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Old 04-02-2003, 11:22 PM #69
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bolts are always circular... that's ok..

But what about changing their profile... Do they need to be symetrical?

Im gona find out how much delrin will cost, and make me a bolt, or mabye just one out of aluminum... (cheeper)
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Old 04-03-2003, 12:26 AM #70
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Efficiency

Ways To Increase Efficiency:

Valve and Cup Seal Mod:
Best way to do this is to send in your valve to MichealHave Blue.
Benefits: Increased air flow through valve for increased efficiency.

ASA Screw:
Take your ASA screw and drill the hole out. If you dont have access to a drill press, you can slowly work your way up to a bigger hole by progressively using larger bits. I believe that Blue enlarges his screws to 1/4", but Im not sure so be carefull. You DO NOT want to take too much metal off this screw or else you run the risk of breaking it off.
Benefits: Increased air flow to lpr/aoc will increase efficiency.

Cocker LPR:
Either buy a hoseless lpr from Rich(me262) or a LPR adaptor and the lpr of you choice from Michael(HaveBlue).
Benefits: Allows you do drop the cocking pressure and have better efficiency.

Lightened Hammer:
I have not tried this, but the theory is that you can take some of the mass off the hammer. Be warned though that too much mass taken from the hammer could cause adverse (very bad) effects.
Benefits: Increased efficiency.

As of now thats all I can think of. I am not listing polishing since its been covered well.

-Joe
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Old 04-03-2003, 12:56 AM #71
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I dont know the exact price of delrin, but it isnt cheap! Just ask pmicocker. He has completed 1 delrin bolt so far.

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Old 04-03-2003, 02:03 AM #72
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actually delrin is pretty inexpensive.

and yes someone has thought of enlarging the transfer port, to to 1/8npt size (duh whatever that is) Q size bit

just ask maggy his addicted has it, and a differetn modded bushmaster redvalve. (or now my gold valves, pretty much the same, with a built in dampner)
and the lightening of the hammer is very minute, just enough so it has just enough mass , but not to light

ive also tried the holed ceters, not much of a differernce.
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Old 04-03-2003, 02:26 PM #73
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whoever said delrin is expensive.... It's like $3.01 a foot.... make it into a bolt sell for 15 - 30 like some companies do... you wont be loosing to much money.

Im gona see about making me a delrin bolt.

Me262. when lightening the hammer, how much would you suggest to lighten it by?

Thanks a lot,
PB
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Old 04-03-2003, 04:13 PM #74
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how about putting in a microswitch?
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Old 04-04-2003, 12:03 AM #75
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Installing a Microswitch:

First, detach the frame from the marker and take off the grips. Then tap the two pins that are right by each other out the left side of the frame. Gently pull the controller board out the top of the frame. Do NOT force it, you could break a wire. With the pins out, the microswitch should come out when you pull the controller board out.

Move the small blue insulation pieces away from the switch and desolder the joints at the switch. Get your new switch and solder it back to those 2 wires. It does not matter if the wires get switched (its just a switch afterall). Push the 2 blue insulation pieces back over the exposed wire/posts.

Align the switch back up with those 2 holes and put the pins in with your fingers. Put the controller board back in the top of the frame. Put the frame back on the marker. Tap the pins back in place the rest of the way and put your grips back on.

That should do it!
Good luck!

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Old 04-04-2003, 12:04 AM #76
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I have no idea how much delrin costs, I was just told it is expensive, but its nice to know its not. How about trying to make the bolt out of nylon instead!

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Old 04-04-2003, 12:06 AM #77
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that'd be cool


it costs 5 times as much though.... give me $15 and I'll make you a bolt..
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Old 04-04-2003, 12:09 AM #78
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Cool. Mind telling me where blocks of nylon can be obtained from? I have a friend who is interested in making a nylon bolt.

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Old 04-04-2003, 07:29 AM #79
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www.mcmaster.com has a ton of bulk materials including nylon. Check them out.
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Old 04-04-2003, 03:29 PM #80
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thanks i appreciate it.
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Old 04-28-2003, 02:19 PM #81
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What do u use to get the microswitch pin out.
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Old 04-28-2003, 03:27 PM #82
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Use a punch and a light hammer (or similar tapping device) and tap the pins out from the right side of the frame. If you're not sure which side is which, there is a pic on how to do it in the D-eye-Y Warlord manual on ASP.
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Old 04-28-2003, 03:42 PM #83
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Thanx warped
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:27 PM #84
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Blowup of Gladiator Reg

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