[Finnigan]

anyone ever thought of doing this> Modify the hammer and valve of a PGP to make it receck from blowback?

Any opinions on how it would be done?

I would think the hammer would definately require an o ring. Modifications would have to be made to permanently mate the hammer and bolt, and modifications may be necessary to the body for assembly.

I KNOW it would involve valve work too, I'm not up on that area of things.

Any insight anyone?

[Bridger]

PMI3/VM-68? I think.

I also think that the Cooper T IMP kit would make it a blowback...

[HAM]

yea i though abotu following the vm desgine but got lazy and sole alot of my spair stuff

and the imp kit makes it a blowback you can alo put them on the other sheridan guns except the kps you can find ther soem times for around 100 bucks

[Punisher's Customs]

The Imp kit is about the only way to go if you can find one.

the problem with converting the PGP itself is the hammer travel.
If you look at any current blow back, the hammer/bolt has a full travel of between 1.25" and 1.5".
The PGP is lucky to squeak out .375".
You'd also need to convert to some form of floating sear.

I messed with it several years ago, here's what I did to make it work....sorta.

1) extend the hammer tube 3"
2) stainless hammer with a .5" long snout necked down to 3/8"
3) delrin bushing:.5" by .77"od and .502"id. this part fits against the valve and allows the hammer to have a sealed blowback chamber.
4) delrin bolt, pinned to the hammer at the rear
5) heavily modified Spyder trigger frame.
6) file the valve pin flat to allow blow back gasses.

It worked, but not very reliably and I had too much to do to spend time on it. I think it's still around here somewhere.......



Good luck!

[Finnigan]

Not looking to build one at the moment, just looking to discuss theory.
Why would a shorter hammer travel be a problem? Will the bolt not chamber the ball all the way when the hammer travels forward?

[Punisher's Customs]

Since the bolt and the hammer are linked and the bolt must travel a minimum of 3/4" just to clear the feed it stands to reason that longer travel is needed/ On top of that, you'll need an additional 1/4" or so to allow sufficient time/space for the sear to reset itself and for the trigger to clear.

[Finnigan]

So really no matter what you do, you need to extend the travel of the hammer. Hmmm. And as much as .25in is needed for the sear to reset? Wow. Hmmm.

[Punisher's Customs]

Well, take a look at any Spyder/clone....
compress the hammer/bolt into the valve until it's flush.
Measure the length of travel from there to when the hammer/bolt is back far enough to catch the sear. Now add just a hair, say 1/8" for it to be reliable and you'll be astounded at just how long it really is.....

[Finnigan]

I'm supprised it doesn't just need to be long enough to chamber the ball properly! Hmmmm...