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Old 02-05-2012, 02:08 PM #148
R-M-I
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To the poster above...for smaller parts like you mention here, do it by hand. Way easier to get to the smaller grooves and holes That's what I do atleast..

On a separate note:
Did a UL-back here a few days ago.. Think the result was pretty nice..

I left the Dye ul-lettering and the ridges + logo on the barrel dust black (the original color)..

And polished up the rest using increasingly fine sandpaper
Took a while..but the result was reward enough for me..

Behold!!



The image quality isn't the best.. But I assure you, it is SHINY And, you might aswell admit it right away.. The "leaving the logo, lettering and ridges dust black = AWESOME.
I haven't seen it done before, but always figured it would look GREAT..
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:05 AM #149
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how did you remove the anno? i want to mess around with my old dm3, but i want to do it right.
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:40 AM #150
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I simply sanded it down by hand
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:22 PM #151
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Originally Posted by Dp_Factory_Man View Post
Keep working on those hooked on phonics bro. ^. I use a grinding wheel with a buffing wheel. I usually start with 240 grit, then 520, then 800, then 2000 grit. Then I take it to the wheel with alot of compund on it and it produces a mirror finish.
Thats what I did and my my ETEK 2 looks amazing. Just put some time into it and go slow. Work only on areas that would get poslished.
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:59 PM #152
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Wow, i haven't been in the scene in a while but the anodizing work is looking GOOD! on this thread!
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:20 PM #153
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Originally Posted by JoshGrrrr View Post
I don't think I have ever seen a paintball barrel that was even close to holding that tolerance. I don't think you will find any that hold a .001 tolerance. Much less a tenth.
Actually, Tippmann measures to tolerances of .001 for their stock barrels.... if you happen to be measuring in kilometers....
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:57 AM #154
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That UL Barrel looks sweet with the dark letters
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Old 08-05-2012, 05:53 PM #155
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Looks Great!
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Old 09-24-2012, 01:14 AM #156
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Very insitefull, thank you
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:56 AM #157
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Reviving an old *** thread, but I need some input from you expert polishers...
Please take a look!

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3962835
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:14 PM #158
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thank you so much
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Old 09-28-2014, 11:43 PM #159
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There is a lot of great advice in this thread. Thanks for all the advice, and ideas!
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Old 11-03-2014, 08:59 AM #160
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Just wanted to thank/share. Thanks to reading through this thread I was able to polish my 3.1. It's got flaws but over-all I'm happy with the result.

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Old 01-13-2016, 11:49 AM #161
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These are the internal pieces to my 2013 Vanguard Demon
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:24 PM #162
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Originally Posted by orionz06 View Post
rule # 1....never use a wire wheel on soft metals....especially aluminum..it will create so many gouges that will have to be SANDED out, youll cry..
OH man, where was this post for me about two weeks ago? Yeaaaa I figured that out the hard way, haha.. luckily on a cheap piece of gear tho, I was practicing for my nicer equipment. Thanks for the tips on the chrome polish though! I knew there was more needed to be done after stripping the ano to shine it up, lol, just didn't know what exactly. Been working on stipping pieces of my E1 to polished aluminum to accent the dust black.. was way too boring just all black!
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Old 02-09-2016, 12:34 PM #163
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wowwww some of those pics look great gus.. makes my work so far look like CRAP! altho I DID just strip the paint like days ago, havent buffed, polished or done anything else yet



Which step should I go to next? lol. Just learning so be nice please!
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Old 12-06-2016, 11:58 AM #164
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This is my technique.
The first step is to strip the anno. This can be done by:
A. Use a Fine metal file 1in wide. Or 150 grit sand paper. Use hand or machine with a light touch until bare metal shows. Be careful not to press too hard otherwise there will be deep gouges that are difficult to polish out. You can use a dremel for the interior sections but use an equiv grit on your sanding bit. Keep turning the part to insure the sanding is evenly spread out. I used painter's blue tape to seal off unsanded sections.

B. Once the anno is off the fun begins. I start with a 400 grit wet sand paper by hand and work the area until all deep grooves from the first step are gone. This is the most difficult part. Be sure to keep turning the part to keep the sanding even.

C. Now I use a 600 grit to smooth it out even further. Then finish with a 1500 grit. All done by hand while rotating the part.

Examine your work under a bright lamp to insure all deep grooves have been removed. Repeat B & C until smooth.

D. Polishing. This is the tricky part. I use Armson Pro-Plus barrel treatment which works fine for me. Unfortunately, Armson is no longer sold.. (Others recommend more available polishing compounds which I'm sure work fine....see previous posts). I first finger apply a light coating of the polish on the bare metal and smear the polish on a clean piece of paper (making my own fine sandpaper). While the polish is slightly damp, start working the area. You should see some black residue on the paper indicating the rough sections are being rubbed off. The part should show a good shine at this time. Repeat this process until you get the level of shine you want.

Note: if you cannot get your shine, repeat B, C & D until achieved.

Suggestion: Do this while watching a football game and time will pass quickly.

I cut and polished the end of this Freak front. Check it out. This was done over a couple of days....so don't rush it. I had to repeat the cycle several times.

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Last edited by Subzero4-5 : 12-06-2016 at 12:18 PM.
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