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Old 08-05-2008, 11:58 AM #106
orionz06
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wetsand with 2000 til you cant see any differences being made, mothers will take out those sanding marks and leave you with a polished part....

so yes

wet sand
mothers
repeat if needed
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:41 PM #107
ZiE
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oooooh, Mothers mag is the ****!
lol
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Old 09-09-2008, 07:15 PM #108
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i think i'll try and do the mikko pm8 style polishing on my clear dm7.

I'll use mothers mag, then chrome and i'll electrical tape off the parts i don't want to polish. I'll do it by hand with sand paper.

any suggestions?
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:41 AM #109
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When you say Wet sandpaper, do you mean add water to the sandpaper or buy specific stuff called "Wet Sandpaper"

Also when I go up in numbers, polishing clear alum. Do i go up 200-220-240-260 or 200-400-600-800 etc etc?
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:16 PM #110
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thanks for the tips!!
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:24 AM #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AceOfHearts View Post
When you say Wet sandpaper, do you mean add water to the sandpaper or buy specific stuff called "Wet Sandpaper"

Also when I go up in numbers, polishing clear alum. Do i go up 200-220-240-260 or 200-400-600-800 etc etc?
the sandpaper is dipped in water... but it does come packaged as wet or dry

as for the sucession of grit, 200-400-600, etc is adequate, but make sure you get to atleast 2000 grit if you want it to look nice... the most work is done with sandpaper, not the buffer
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Old 11-13-2008, 11:57 AM #112
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Originally Posted by orionz06 View Post
the most work is done with sandpaper, not the buffer
that is completely incorrect. here is my mini i polished last night without using any sandpaper at all: (it was all gloss blue anodize beforehand)



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Old 11-13-2008, 03:38 PM #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by selfinfliction View Post
that is completely incorrect. here is my mini i polished last night without using any sandpaper at all: (it was all gloss blue anodize beforehand)



you began with a smooth surface... all you had to do was polish out the anodizing... my statement you quoted neglected the initial condition.... plus it addressed his question from 200-2000 grit, and at that point (2000 grit) the surface has some shine to it...

i have taken many anodized products to the buffer and polished them in mere minutes... doesnt take much with a pedstal buffer and the correct compound...
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:48 PM #114
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Originally Posted by orionz06 View Post
you began with a smooth surface... all you had to do was polish out the anodizing... my statement you quoted neglected the initial condition.... plus it addressed his question from 200-2000 grit, and at that point (2000 grit) the surface has some shine to it...

i have taken many anodized products to the buffer and polished them in mere minutes... doesnt take much with a pedstal buffer and the correct compound...
guess you didn't understand... i hardly ever use ANY sandpaper whatsoever.

check this, it a rough cast aluminum wheel from a 2002 zx6r, no sandpaper was used:



or maybe the entire motorcycle being polished without a piece of sandpaper being used is enough to persuade you?



or maybe a cast supercharger (no sandpaper used) is what it'll take:

before & after





i've got thousands of pics from turbos to valve covers, to motorcycle parts and full motorcycles, and rarely does a piece of metal see sandpaper in my garage

<edit> to add, the very few pieces that do require sanding are usually flat surfaces with uneven casting, or wear to it and sanding is needed to flatten it. then i will use a 220 grit, then a 400 grit and that's it. i don't even own any sandpaper above 400 grit

Last edited by selfinfliction : 11-13-2008 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 11-13-2008, 09:54 PM #115
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So if you're not using sandpaper, what do you use?
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Old 11-14-2008, 05:13 AM #116
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So if you're not using sandpaper, what do you use?
the correct wheel and compound...

I do understand, but i will take a stab at this and assume that the kids in here dont have all of the equipment necessary to do so... I have never been fortunate enough to work with smooth parts either...
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:56 AM #117
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Originally Posted by orionz06 View Post
the correct wheel and compound...
incorrect again, secrets of the trade i've got over $1k worth of stuff i use, just no sandpaper
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Old 11-14-2008, 04:33 PM #118
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Originally Posted by selfinfliction View Post
incorrect again, secrets of the trade i've got over $1k worth of stuff i use, just no sandpaper

well, the correct wheels and compound can still do the same thing... there are many ways to get a polished finish, but for most sandpaper is the easiest start...

cant all afford chemical polishing...
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:30 PM #119
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cant all afford chemical polishing...
i don't mess with coatings (i'm guessing this is what you mean by chemical polishing)

now it's really confusing isn't it?
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Old 11-14-2008, 09:04 PM #120
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Originally Posted by selfinfliction View Post
i don't mess with coatings (i'm guessing this is what you mean by chemical polishing)

now it's really confusing isn't it?
eh, i have my ideas... but i can still produce those results without sandpaper...
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:39 PM #121
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selfinfliction, considering this is a DIY thread, you aren't really contributing here.
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:46 PM #122
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Originally Posted by selfinfliction View Post
incorrect again, secrets of the trade i've got over $1k worth of stuff i use, just no sandpaper
So why are you posting here? Nobody gives a rat's *** how you do it unless you are willing to share that information with other members of the Nation. GTFO!
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Old 01-10-2009, 08:10 PM #123
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he's most likely using a polishing compound called greaseless compound. you hold it to the spinning buffing wheel and it melts onto the wheel. you allow the greaseless compound to dry on the wheel and it becomes almost like a grinder, but flexible. it removes the pitting from cast aluminum without gouging it too badly. from there you move to progressively finer buffing compounds. i like to use sandpaper when the surface i'm buffing is rather flat. some people are better than others when it comes to polishing. the most impressive thing i've seen to date is a coke can. i'm not sure how he didn't warp the heck out of it, but he didn't.
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Old 01-10-2009, 08:43 PM #124
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Originally Posted by alabama_lowlife View Post
he's most likely using a polishing compound called greaseless compound. you hold it to the spinning buffing wheel and it melts onto the wheel. you allow the greaseless compound to dry on the wheel and it becomes almost like a grinder, but flexible. it removes the pitting from cast aluminum without gouging it too badly. from there you move to progressively finer buffing compounds. i like to use sandpaper when the surface i'm buffing is rather flat. some people are better than others when it comes to polishing. the most impressive thing i've seen to date is a coke can. i'm not sure how he didn't warp the heck out of it, but he didn't.
nah, he said he didnt use compounds...
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Old 02-03-2009, 12:23 AM #125
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Amazing stuff that sand paper can do. I polish everything, all the time. Valves, triggers, hammers, you name it.

-DDM
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:17 PM #126
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We use heavy metal polish at our shop. Very easy to work with and produces a perfect mirror finish. The only time we sand the substrate is to get the surface smooth to save time and compound during the buffing/polishing stage. We use a combination of a bench top buffer and a flex shaft buffer to polish the parts, but a DIYer with a dremel can get the same results with the proper technique and some time. We have polished paintball markers but we mainly polish and jewel rifle bolts. Heavy metal polish can be used for many different substrates. Also if you polish your marker you will need apply a QUALITY clear or you will need to keep the finish coated with a wax or other coating to prevent dulling. A quality clear is suggested as it is is low maintenance. Hint quality clears don't come in a spray can.
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