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Old 10-04-2007, 08:27 PM #85
Tesko
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I go for 220 through 600 grit emery cloth, then use coarse scotchbrite, fine scotchbrite, then buff it, then polish. Works pretty drat good.
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Old 11-07-2007, 09:49 AM #86
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actually construction grade thermite lights much easier, just so you know

This should be stickied or put onto my feature website.
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Old 01-05-2008, 01:35 PM #87
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I decided to polish the internals on my Victor II today. It went pretty smooth. I started off by tapping a hole in the rear of my bolt so that I could put a bolt in it and attach it to my drill. I the proceeded to sand with 500 grit, followed by 500 with polishing compound. After that I went with a fine leather with white rouge. That is where it hit the shine. After a thorough cleaning and a quick buff I put the gun back together. Man what a difference it makes in the ability to quick fire. I know it isnt that fast but it is fast enough for what I play.
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:41 PM #88
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How would i go about polishing my ion's internals?
or should i even at all?
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:48 PM #89
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:53 PM #90
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k thanks
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Old 02-13-2008, 10:18 PM #91
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I'm looking to polish an 06 SFT Shocker and an 05 EGO Frame and everything else thats on the shocker in my sig (save the tank and halo mind you ) ...what one of the tuts should I do?
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:54 PM #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelspot 007 View Post
Thermite is Iron Oxide and powdered Aluminium it is normally ignited with a starter charge of powdered magnesium and zerconium This starter combination burns at over 1900 degrees which is needed to set off the main charge.
#1 thermite is a precise mix of these 2 ingredients not Rust and aluminium grindings.
#2 the "mesh" (partical size) is critical to ignition
#3 If by chance you have #1 and #2 just right while wire wheeling aluminium Aluminium melts at 1220 degrees F ....Thermite needs 1900 ++ to ignite.... you figure it out!!
almost entirely correct, but the iron oxide in thermite is actually Fe3 oxide. you have to go through a very specific process to produce iron3oxide, as rust is iron2oxide. this "busts the myth" even more!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Op350
I'm looking to polish an 06 SFT Shocker and an 05 EGO Frame and everything else thats on the shocker in my sig (save the tank and halo mind you ) ...what one of the tuts should I do?
all the tutorials are essentially the same, just with different products and slight differentiations in procedure.

What i would do is this:
since your parts are already smooth, you dont need to start very coarse. first remove the anno with light sanding of 600 grit, then sand with 1000, 1500, 2000, and 3000 grit paper, in that order. you can either hold the part while you polish it or wrap part of it in rubber strips and clamp it. i highly suggest clamping so your piece doesnt fly across the room. once it is secured, apply some mothers power metal polish to a mothers mini-ball with the extended neck. press the ball lightly against
the part then start the drill, going very slowly at first. gradually throttle the drill up until it is about 1/2-3/4 throttle. sweep the ball across the surface slowly and steadily, applying more polish periodically so the ball doesnt run dry. dont push the ball hard into the part, just a little pressure is all it takes. let the ball do the work for you. after going over the piece for a while, wipe it off with a very fine microfiber cloth. if it is still cloudy, polish it agan, but if the finish is as good as you want, wax it with a high-quality carnuba wax for protection. DO NOT use any kind of cleaner wax or lower level wax, these products have slight abrasives in them that can damage your surface finish.
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:00 PM #93
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Awesome TY...so that is the same for a Proto SLG as well right?
it's either this or baking.
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Old 03-03-2008, 05:56 PM #94
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Awesome TY...so that is the same for a Proto SLG as well right?
it's either this or baking.
np, man. anything that is anodized aluminum can use this technique. if your part is very rough, though, you will need to start with 220-320 grit then move to 400-500 grit for your arms sake.

i'm not sure what you mean by "baking"?
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:55 AM #95
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Do you have any idea how large a tenth of an inch is? That tolerance would mean that a ".68" barrel could be anywhere between .58-.78, none of which would fit a paintball.

And yes, within a brand of barrel (not stock barrels or 32* cheap stuff) the tolerances are indeed 1/1000 of an inch. It really isnt that hard when you have the proper tooling to make it.
a tenth is not what you think, in machinist terms a tenth is .0001 one ten thousandth of an inch. no one in the machine world only works one place right of the decimal point, thats for carpenters
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Old 06-05-2008, 08:35 PM #96
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how about taking dust anno to gloss anno? should i just start with a much higher grit (like 600) to get it smoot then go to polishing compounds?
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:17 PM #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt_Carnage View Post
how about taking dust anno to gloss anno? should i just start with a much higher grit (like 600) to get it smoot then go to polishing compounds?
polishing removes metal...the annodizing will be removed before actually getting to the metal... the anodic layer builds upon the metal you seek to polish...

polish it and then re-anodize it
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Old 07-15-2008, 03:01 PM #98
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When you're polishing with higher grit sandpaper, I know you wanna wet it. But, is there a special technique you're supposed to use when sanding? Are you supposed to only sand in one direction, or does it not matter if you go in a back and forth motion?
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:21 PM #99
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polishing removes metal...the annodizing will be removed before actually getting to the metal... the anodic layer builds upon the metal you seek to polish...

polish it and then re-anodize it
ah, so to get to a polished finish would require it be polished BEFORE annodizing? the anno is that thin?
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Old 07-25-2008, 05:23 PM #100
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5-15 nm thick, but it builds upon the current metal layer, so if the layer is non-polished, the anodic layer will take the same surface finish, ie, rough to start, rough to end
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:22 AM #101
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So what should the surface look like when you bump up to mothers mag?
I have it to where the surface is mirror smooth (lol) but not mirror finished. There are a bunch of micro scratches in it. What grit should I use that will make it mirror finish?
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:32 PM #102
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Quote:
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So what should the surface look like when you bump up to mothers mag?
I have it to where the surface is mirror smooth (lol) but not mirror finished. There are a bunch of micro scratches in it. What grit should I use that will make it mirror finish?
typically it will look like you described...

almost good enough is the best way to describe, but you are only 60% done, the rest of the work is spent making the baby shine... this is where a wheel comes in handy, you can really pound away quick...

when polishing markers (when i had a wheel) i would use a rough compound until the anno was gone and then the aluminum compound and call it a day... best results ever, assuming the gun isnt torn up
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:43 PM #103
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So should I forget about the 2000grit and go for the mothers mag?
That will get all the micro scratches out of it?
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:48 PM #104
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Quote:
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So should I forget about the 2000grit and go for the mothers mag?
That will get all the micro scratches out of it?
2000 grit is critical, wetsand with it
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:57 PM #105
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Yeah I did it with 2000, what I am asking is should I wetsand with 2000 until all the microscratches are out, or will the mothers do that?
Will 2000 make it a mirror finish is pretty much what i am trying to ask... lol.
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