Posting cam arm mod again with pictures that actually work...
Thought I'd show you the easy mod I made to use the Q-loader. By adding another outer cam (short fat one) I was able to use the Q-loader at reduced windings. Once I was confident it was working fine, I glued the outer 2 cams together, making it even stiffer. Works with full 16 winds now. A Q-loader with full winds will drop test over 75BPS!! And that's thru 8" of hose and an elbow! I have also used the new cam arrangement with a V35 Halo and it worked fine at all settings. My PDchip only goes 25 max and with the halo on 35 it still did not bypass the cam jamming the gun.
The extra cam arm was like $7 or so from RJskateworks and he shipped it the day I ordered it!
Step 1. Remove allen screw holding feedtube assembly. Swing assembly up out of the way. Remove small allen screw holding cam arm rocker cover.
Step 2. Remove 2 phillips screws holding cam arms onto the rocker. Make note of inner cam arm position as if you flip it later screw holes between cam arms will not line up with rocker.
Picture shows open cam assembly and final positions of 3 cam arms. (not glued yet.)
Step 3. Screw 2 outer cam arms (short fat) together. This will ensure the holes are lined up later after applying the glue. If you try to line them up by eye, your screws will not fit thru. There is very little room for error.
Step 4. Apply small amount of Super Glue Gel to end of cam arms. Only cover about 50% max and only from where cam arm gets fatter to the end. If you glue the entire thing end to end it will not have enough flex to perform correctly. Super Glue Gel works better than contact cement becuase you can dissolve it later with nail polish remover if you make a mistake. The glued cam arms will be far stiffer than one or even 2 non-glued just screwed together.
Step 5. Make sure glue is 100% dry before putting all 3 cam arms together. YOU DO NOT WANT THE FIRST CAM TO STICK TO THE OUTER !! Screw all 3 cam arms back onto rocker using 2 small phillips screws. The original screws are plenty long enough to hold. Replace cam rocker cover with small allen screw. Flip feed tube assembly back down and secure with large allen screw.
Step 6. Looking down the feed tube, cycle marker WITH NO AIR. Make sure the outer 2 cams are catching on the stop allowing the first cam to push into the breach. Also make sure all 3 cams return far enough to allow next paintball to drop with out resistance.
You're done, no go kick some ***!!
Better yet, walk up to a Halo B owner and shoot your marker UPSIDE DOWN!!! Then challenge him to try that. You can now lay down and shoot out of a bunker with your barrel only 1" off the ground. People don't expect you down that low on a bunker!
Point of note: I have the Q-loader at a slight downward angle. If you try to mount it perfectly straight on the Detonator it will block the collar, stopping any adjustment. Once you have the Detonator adjusted and locked in you can readjust the q-loader if you want.
Thanks to Hdsminolta for the help hosting the pics!!
And as an added bonus, kiddo's, learn to make your very own DYEVIL grips!
Took a small "L" bracket and bent into a "U". The JB welded 1/4-20 nuts onto both outside edges of "U" shaped clip near top lining up with bottom holes on grips. Clip inside is jbwelded to base of grip frame. Then drilled small hole in grip where top hole in grip frame lines up. Filed old top hole with clear silicone. Had to dremel out inside of grip a little to clear noid and battery which stick out of the frame a little. Then painted over DYE jewel with gloss black nail polish. Put an EVIL sticker on jewel and covered with clear nail polish. Since it was my first attempt it's kinda "frankenstein" but looks cool anyway. Might make a more polished one later. Last pic above had a 5mg limit daily so check back if it doesn't load.
JUST ADDED! Omen DM4 Roller trigger MOD:
Okay, 1st this is a work in progress. I still have to tap the back of the blade to insert an extra set screw for a forward stop.
I started with a Shockteck DM4 roller blade trigger. Thought it would fit the shape of the grip nice and liked the dual roller bearings for that smooth as butta feel.
I milled off the back to the edge of the top set screw, rounded the bottom edge of the back to clear the top grip screws, then milled the very bottom of the blade to clear the grip gaurd. Did all of this with a cheap grinder.
Hear are the grip, blade, and 10g micro switch (installed at same time)
Here is the blade after grinding it down.
Close up after installing.
And the final sexy beast:
Pulling back is right on the money. Less than a mouse click but it will return farther than needed untill I add another set screw. Getting a small tap and die kit for X-mas. Right now it rips faster than my stock trigger, though it seems to bounce more as well (new switch?). Will shoot with paint Sunday to really test.
Omen now has:
DYEvil stickie grips
Evil ASA w/ gauge
Shockteck Blade trigger
Cam MOD w/ Q-loader
10g micro switch
New valve and recock
New back block and internals
Clamping low rise feed
68/4500 Crossfire HPA tank with red bumbers
Low pressure expansion chamber tapped into front cap.