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Old 08-28-2003, 09:47 AM #1
Spartan X
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Post Official EviL Omen FAQ

I figured these are those most asked questions right now. There are lots of little things but they are not asked as often. When a question becomes asked more, I will add it.


The EviL Omen FAQ


Q: How do I adjust my evil omen if it does not come working?

A: It should come ready to fire; you most likely will have to adjust the re-cock and velocity before you play. It should come from the factory already adjusted, but mine was not, and if the re-cock is set to high, you could loose a bumper, chop alot, and get massive recoil.

When you get your omen, here what I suggest you do:

Find the locking screw on the Omen's regulator. Loosen the Scew so you can turn the adjusting ring or coller around the Reg's main body. When looking at the regulator from the bottem turn it clockwise to decrease the pressure. Turn it all the way down the turn it about 2 times back up. leave the regulators coller losse, and get your .05 allen key out.

Find the recock screw located in the middle on the Omens body and use the .05 allen key, turning the screw clockwise (right) till the screw bottems out. Then turn the screw counterclockwise (left) about a quarter-of-a-turn(1/4th).

Hand feed one paintball into the Omen feedneck and pull the back block back to load the ball into the chamber and to cock the gun. Shoot the gun over the crono and take note of the velocity.

Turn the reg up a little more and cock the gun and shoot with no paint 2 times manually. Load another ball, cock the gun and crono that ball again. Continue this untill the balls are shooting 10 FPS FASTER then what you want your gun to be shooting. Tighten down the locking screw on the regulator. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Get your .05 Allen key out again.

Turn the re-cock screw counterclockwise (left) in about 1/4-1/2 incoments. each time cock the gun and shoot it. Do this untill the gun will recock each time on it's own in rappid fire. get it as low as posible then turn the recock out 1/4 higher to compensate for error or shooting faster on the field.

GO out and have fun!





Q: How do I adjust the regulators pressure?

A: There is a ring located on the middle of the Regulator. This ring is held by a friction screw, to adjust the reg loosen the screw. Instead of bothering with the closewise method that always got people confused as to how to look and the gun and turn it which way.
While you are looking at your gun from the side that the recock screw is located, turn the ring right to decrease pressure, and turn the Ring left to raise the pressureTighten the screw when it’s adjusted properly. Simply remember it's the oposite of lefty-Lower, righty-Raise


Q: How does the CAM feed work?

A:
Think of it more as a two-stage seesaw with reeds.
The two reeds, which are spring loaded, sit to the right of the ball waiting to push it into the breech, but the bolt is closed holding a ball in the barrel.
When you pull the trigger, the inside striker goes forward, shoots the ball and starts the re-cock.
When the inner/outer striker comes back, it brings the bolt with it.
On the right side of the bolt are cutaways.
The first groove or cutaway on in the back has the reeds in the full right position.
As the bolt comes back, the cutaway in the bolt is less and the reeds start to move the waiting ball towards the breech.
As the bolt uncovers the feed, the cutaway in the bolt disappears and the reeds move fully to the left and push the ball into the breech.
The reed on the outside is a little wider and does not go fully into the side of the body and acts as a ball stop to keep another ball from falling into the ready position.
As the bolt goes forward, it pushes the ball into the barrel and the reeds go back to the far right and allow another ball to fall into place waiting for it's turn to chamber…


Q:Why is my gun not re-cocking, even with the recock adjust al the way out?

A:
This can be cause by a couple of miss adjustments.
First check your Strikers bumper, if it is broke, teres the problem, this is cause by having the recock to high. If it's is not broken it is probally cause by over pressurizing the gun. When there is to much pressure behind the valve, the Omens striker is not able to open he cup seal enough to shoot or re-cock the gun. The regulators output must be with in a curtan range to work properly. Turn your regulator all the way down, and adjust your recock all the way in. Start from stratch and slowing bring your regulators pressure up till you velocity is 10 fps faster then you want it. Then start the re-cock sweet-spotting prosses.


Q: Can the Evil Omen use CO2?

Yes and No. While the Omen will operate using Co2 it's not a very good idea. Co2 is a corrosive a dirty Gas. After prolonged use Orings will start to grim up and corrode and will have be be replace well before there time. It also puts more wear and tear on all the parts of the paintball gun were the gas is present.
If you absolutly can not use HPA at the time, an anti-siphen tank is your next option. These Co2 tanks should never be fill all the way and should always be placed on the gun in the correct manner to ensure no liquid gets into the regulator. If liquid get's past the regulator and into the valve chamber, the liquid will expand at any wear from 700-1800 psi. The normal operation pressure of the Omen is 300 psi...so your going to get massive hots shots that can blow a paintball into peaces inside the barrel. It will also over pressurize the recock, thus making the Gun recoil really bad and over powering the CAM feed, smacking a ball in the breach really hard, and potentially busting a ball inside the breach.


Q: Were can I find Parts for the Evil Omen?

A: www.piranha-evil.com

Q:

(If you think of some more, please add them)

OMENWORKERS OUT OF BOX INSTRUCTIONS for OMEN
heh guys. ive noticed quite a few threads concerning omen newbie problems with omens. i thought i would give the forum a place to refer new owners on the how to set up a NIB omen. I'm placing the instructions in order with a number indicating the sequence in which the instructions should be completed... So, 1. means first, 2. means second, and so on and so forth....

so here we go with number one....

1. be proud, you are now an owner of an evil marker called the omen. cut the protective film from the box, lift the lid and admire for approximately 10-15 mins. show your friends what you got, show your mom.... its cool....

2. take that thing that accompanied your omen in the box that looks like a black block with a wire coming out of it (aka charger), and plug the small end into the trigger frame, and plug the big block side into the wall (if youre scared of electric shock get a parent to do it), now leave it there for 24 hours (aka one full day and night), this will also give you plenty of time to read the manual about 80 times.... you might be able to get by only reading it 50 times if you are a quick learner

3. This step isnt in the instructions: ok so your omen is fully charged and ready to sling paint right???? WRONG, this step is what us seasoned vets like to call breaking in the detonator. this step requires alot of air and/or co2.... it consist of 3000-4000 dry fires. sounds like alot doesnt it... well it is in all honesty... but necesary if you want your first day of play with the omen to be a good one. (and so you wont post "my omen sucks" threads). this period will also train your fingers for the omen trigger so when you are done you will be mowing all your friends and they will cry....
ok if your are using paintball gun oil..... drop 4-5 drops in the bottomline, attach air, cock, and gas up.....shoot the whole tank (assuming your using a 68/4500, if you are using something else do the math) take the tank off... drop 4-5 drops in the bottomline, attach air, cock, and gas up.....shoot the whole tank, repeat until youve reached about 4000 shots, (with a 68/4500, thats about 3-4 tank fulls). *if you use grease in your omen, the application of the lube once before you start should be good, after the break in, i would take the det down, clean and relube*

4. ok so now your omen is ready to mow.... buy some paint(more than you use to buy with that model 98 you use to own, trust me, youll see why once you start playing), put a hopper on... and set up your velocity and recock as per manual (and you know how to do this because you read the manual 80 times). go out and be evil.... put welts on people in places they didnt know they had..... lol


well... i hope this helps some of you guys/gals out there thinking about getting an omen... or those who already have one and cant get it right..... its never too late to go back and do this if you never did....
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:02 PM #2
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Here are a few more things to check if your Omen still will not recock.
1.Does the black back block slide back to the closed position after you pull them back? or does it require you to push the back block back to the closed position.

2.Is the sear release pushed all the way down. One way to check is to see if the sear will catch the hammer if you cock the omen by hand.

3 Make sure that on the hammer #43 that the hammer plate #45 are tight and not able to be moved around at all. Also make sure that the hammer plate #45 is not cracked in the center by the screw hole.

4 Check the front of the hammer #42 to see that the nipple on the front is fully intact and has not broken off. One easy way to check is by sliding the Bolt Carrier #42 over the Hammer #42 and seeing if the hammer nipple is flush with the front surface of the Bolt Carrier.

5 Check the alignment of the internals. This is easiest done by pulling the Bolt assembly out of the omen. Then hold the inner block in you hand so that the tip of the bolt is facing you. Look at the Bolt Link Pin #40 and make sure is perfectly vertical in reference to the red
inner block. If it is out of alignment remove the 5/32 screw #32 from the Rear Block #33 and align the Bolt connecting pin #40. Once it is aligned re-locite the 5/32 screw #32 into the Rear Block #33 using green loctite. Check and make sure they are aligned still and let sit
till the Loctite dries.

6. Try oiling the bolt carrier o-ring.
If you need any further help feel free to call tech support at 800 579 1633.
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Old 09-03-2003, 10:29 AM #3
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Q: my bolt sometimes gets caught half way and i have to pull it back a little to get it back again.

A. The CAM isnt pushin hard enough so increase your recock A LITTLE.

(thats what happened to mine and my answer solved it ..hope this helped)
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Old 09-05-2003, 07:18 AM #4
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Edit to Shutters Answer

Answer 2: Your beavertial/Inner red back block is bent and it is binding with your back block as it cocks, not alowing it to recock all the way, get it replaced.
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Old 09-24-2003, 01:36 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by ImNewToothiss
Were can you get a new inner red back block/beaer tail?
A:

EviL
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Old 03-18-2004, 10:11 AM #6
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Q:
How to set trigger

A:
This is for all you lil kiddies who need to get that triggerpull just right...

First lets Identify all the parts (as in omen manual)...
http://www.evil-paintball.com/OmenManual.pdf
part#52 sear trigger pin "top screw" (0.05 allen tool)
part#56 trigger
part#57 solonoid set screw "lower screw" (1/16 allen tool)

---The top screw triggers the microswitch inside the triggerframe, the more it is screwed in the sooner it will trigger the swtich. But be carefull, too far and it will not reset the microswitch. This is best to set as SHORT as possable.
---The lower screw controls how much distsnce is pulled after the microswitch is fired. Be Carefull here too because if this is too far in it will not let you fire at all. This is good (at least I think so) to set it to have a lil pull after the actual fire.

Now...I recomend setting your pull as short as possible and fine tuning it yourself from there. So lets begin...

-Use your 1/16 allen tool to back out (turn to the left) the lower screw so the trigger lies flat on the frame when pulled all the way.

-Turn on the omen. Make sure there is no gas or paint in omen!

-Use your 0.05 allen tool to tighten the top screw (turn to the right). I recomend holding the sides of the trigger as you do this so as not to press to hard and actualy use the trigger to fire. You are going to tighten the top screw untill the gun fires.

-Continue holding trigger and back out (turn to the left) the top screw 1/4 of a turn, or untill you hear the microswitch reset, if you don't hear it than the 1/4 turn should be plenty.

-Now pull the trigger a few times to make sure everything is ok

-With your 1/16 allen tool ready in the lower screw, pull the trigger slowly untill you hear it fire and stop and hold the trigger in place, tighten (turn to the right) the lower screw untill it is just about to touch the triggerframe.

-Test a few pulls.

-And your done

-When you are finished you can "fine tune" the trigger however you prefer, or leave it like this, its your gun.


I hope this will be a sticky or something...If anyone has any suggestions plese feel free to share how you tuned your trigger.

M
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Old 03-25-2004, 04:10 PM #7
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just adding some as we get these threads all the time...

Q: What are the differences between the old omens and new style ones?!

A: Newer style omens will have...

- Red inner block with holes and nylon set screws to prevent binding
- Bigger trigger guard for ease of walking
- Black magnesium trigger
- The vert. regulator will have "detonator" inscribed on it
- Charger port cover
- Grey, new style hammer cushions
- White, new style bumper (little pad in breech)
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Old 03-25-2004, 04:18 PM #8
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Q: What upgrades are availible for the Evil Omen?

A: Current Omen upgrades are...

- Barrel/barrel system (cocker threaded)
- New feedneck (imp threaded)
- Drop forward

- PDP chip. The chip raises the stock board's cap from 15 to 5-25 adjustable BPS with adjustable debounce for only $50! www.pdpaintball.com for more info
- 15* ASA, made by Daveczrn (not availible yet)
- New sticky grip panels made by Frymarker and Xzorz helped a little
- Blade triggers by munkeyd00d (not availible yet)
- MicroSwitch mod by Djinsight
- Flush cocking by Daveczrn (not availible yet)
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:13 PM #9
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Q: What is the best hopper for the Evil Omen?

A: The best hopper for an omen is an Evolution 2 with Z board (Egg). Any hopper will work fine except for a Halo, Warp Feed, and Q loader. The reason those wont work is that they will push the ball inbeetween the the two cam arms. Look at the animation here. http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=370537 and u will proabably understand better.

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Old 04-29-2004, 03:03 PM #10
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Q: How do u adjust the Inner Block?

A: First pull out the internals. Then pull the back block back. Use the .05 allen key in your parts kit to adjust the nylon set screws. The nylon set screws should be comin out of the block just a tad bit about a half of a millimeter and should be even with eachother. Now put the internals back in. Put the field strip pin back in. (Note, if the pin will not go in or takes lots of force to get back in then u half to loosen your screws a little bit.) Once u get the pin in the beaver tail should just move a little bit. Pull the back block back and forth to make sure that it is moving very smoothly. If its not than your nylon set screws are not properly adjusted. U dont need to adjust your set screws unless it is jaming up. The saying is "If it aint broke, dont fix it.

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Old 05-26-2004, 05:14 PM #11
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Which barrel/feed neck treads does the omen take?

The omen takes autococker barrel treads and impulse feed neck treads. In other words, if you want a barrel for the omen, get an autococker barrel and if you want a new feed neck, get an impulse feed neck - they will fit.


btw, spartan x, i think you should edit your post so it has all the questions on the first post so people dont have to scroll down to see all the faqs. If you want to give credit to people, just say Submitted by: Pace (or w/e name) under the question/answer.

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Old 07-10-2004, 08:04 PM #12
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Hello fellas.... i know recently there has been numerous problems with people having recock issues and pressure inconsistencies..... The regulator is the number one culprit to such ailments... and i wanted to give the evil forum a HOW TO!! break down the evil detonator regulator.... I personally breakdown, clean, and relube my detonator after every 4 cases i shoot through it... we have been witness to the ranking of the detonator as one of the best regulators on the market, so this thread is to help everyone keep their reg operating correctly and smoothly...

Evil Detonator Step by Step Breakdown

1. OK so heres your reg off of the gun and ready for service...



2. Now the first thing to do is to loosen the adjusting ring set screw so the adjusting ring spins easily. Then screw the adjusting ring down until the WHOLE retaining screw on the main body is exposed... This will allow you to remove that retaining screw....



3. Now once youve removed the retaining screw, unscrew the top (main body) completely from the lower body....



4. Now set the main body (top half) aside for right now... well get back to that later.... now holding the bottom half in your hand you can see a brass seal retainer... you need to unscrew this but be careful..... sometimes it will come loose with your hands...but sometimes its tighter.... if this is the case you need to use some soft-tip pliers... the object is not to mar the surface or edge of the seal retainer......



5. Now thats removed you are now looking at the regulator seat... this is the most important part of the reg and its removal is not necessary unless it is damaged on the surface... then you need to get a new one..... i wouldnt suggest removing it for any other reason..... simply wipe it off... and regrease it.... (sorry i refer to grease because i use dow..... if you use oil... just fill in the blanks....put oil where i say to grease) now there is also another seal down in the bottom of this area... you cant see it... and unless you have a problem with leaking... you shouldnt take that part (inner tube) out.... ill show you how to get grease on that next.....



6. OK, now go back to the seal retainer you removed..... and look up inside... you will see something that looks like a crosshair.... this needs to be pushed out..... and youll find that an oring is in there as well...... these parts need to be wiped off and relubed as the picture show... notice that the picture shows to put some grease on the inside lip of the seal retainer.... this takes care of the oring that I spoke of in the last step that you cant see.....
After you have cleaned and relubed those parts you must install them back into the retainer.... use a soft tipped object... like a pencil eraser to do this....



OK so far before you move on.... reassemble the bottom half by going in the opposite order that i explained the breakdown.... make sure thats back together before we move to the top (main body)

7. Ok holding the main body in your hand you can see that there is a small retainer in the top of it.... this is called a "snap ring" in order to remove this properly and without causing harm to your reg, you need to have a pair of snap ring pliers... to be more exact.. you need to have internal snap ring pliers.... you can buy these at autozone really cheap... and they even have snap ring pliers that are combination of internal and external.... Anyway remove that ring with the pliers



(this is just a picture of the snap ring pliers im referring to)



8. Now that ring is out... we need to remove the piston assembly from the main body.... to do this....flip the main body over... and you will see the tube of the piston.... using the same pencil eraser as before... push the shaft and the piston will come out of the top of the reg....



9. This is what you get when the piston is out.... wipe down each part... and regrease..... at this time i always use either qtips of paper towels to wipe out the inside of the main body as well.....once its clean and relubed... reinstall the piston.... use the eraser again to push the piston down.... make sure the top of the piston is below the groove that the snap ring sets in.... replace the snap ring and we are in business...



10. Well the last part is to reassemble the top and bottom bodies of the reg... this is where most people have problems..... so follow my lead..... screw the top (main body) into the bottom body..... now alot of people have a problem with knowing where to stop... heres the trick.... screw in the top half... but the whole time look inside the little hole that the retaining screw goes in.... you will see the flange of the seal retainer as you screw..... the picture below was to show that....but its not very clear....... once you see the flange.... continue to screw in the body until the flange passes the hole.... as soon as the flange is clear of the hole.... put in the retaining screw..... now heres the other trick..... dont bottom the retaining screw on the seal retainer.... only put the retaining screw in enough so that the adjuster ring will screw over it without rubbing it...... ....



AND VIOLA!! you have successfully serviced your detonator...... below is a exploded view of the reg to help you if you seem to get lost along the way..... please feel free to pm me for questions or problems with my instructions......

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Last edited by the.evil.tech : 03-26-2005 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 08-03-2004, 03:09 AM #13
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How do you take the Valve out?

Quote:
Originally posted by omenworker
yup no problem..... as far as getting the valve out..... unscrew the recock screw as far as it will go.... it wont come out because its held in with an oring so you need to use your fingernails ( or someone that has them) and pull the screw out...... then you have to remove the trigger frame... and you will see a brass hex screw... uscrew that..... then.... use something softipped.... like a battle swab and push the valve out from the back... through the front..... be careful.... there is a small black oring that sits in a recess that the recock screw goes through.....if it falls in the carpet it tends to disappear....

clean off the valve good.... make sure the orings are in good shape if not... replace..... and make sure to lube the orings up really good.... they dont move....they just hold air back...so this helps them to seal better...


install the valve back in.... make sure the correct side is facing the front before you put it in..... push it back in with the swab again... or the eraser side of a pencil..... next you want to put the brass set screw back in to keep the valve from moving....... the trick here is to not put the set screw back in all the way until it stops..... only screw it back in so its just below the surface of the body.... if you go all the way in.... it pushes the valve to the top of the chamber and can cause other issues.... now screw your recock screw back in... put your cup seal back and your in business.....

good luck
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Old 09-02-2004, 03:15 PM #14
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FAQ in the forum -

Where to buy omni blades? Also known as blade triggers for the omen, Informations here:

www.undecidedpb.com
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Old 09-05-2004, 08:42 PM #15
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Can I use a Qloader or halo on an omen

Yes here is how
Quote:
Originally posted by BeenPimpSlapped?
Thought I'd show you the easy mod I made to use the Q-loader. By adding another outer cam (short fat one) I was able to use the Q-loader at reduced windings. Once I was confident it was working fine, I glued the outer 2 cams together, making it even stiffer. Works with full 16 winds now. A Q-loader with full winds will drop test over 75BPS!! And that's thru 8" of hose and an elbow! I have also used the new cam arrangement with a V35 Halo and it worked fine at all settings. My PDchip only goes 25 max and with the halo on 35 it still did not bypass the cam jamming the gun.

The extra cam arm was like $7 or so from RJskateworks and he shipped it the day I ordered it!


Step 1. Remove allen screw holding feedtube assembly. Swing assembly up out of the way. Remove small allen screw holding cam arm rocker cover.

Step 2. Remove 2 phillips screws holding cam arms onto the rocker. Make note of inner cam arm position as if you flip it later screw holes between cam arms will not line up with rocker.

Picture shows open cam assembly and final positions of 3 cam arms. (not glued yet.)




Step 3. Screw 2 outer cam arms (short fat) together. This will ensure the holes are lined up later after applying the glue. If you try to line them up by eye, your screws will not fit thru. There is very little room for error.

Step 4. Apply small amount of Super Glue Gel to end of cam arms. Only cover about 50% max and only from where cam arm gets fatter to the end. If you glue the entire thing end to end it will not have enough flex to perform correctly. Super Glue Gel works better than contact cement becuase you can dissolve it later with nail polish remover if you make a mistake. The glued cam arms will be far stiffer than one or even 2 non-glued just screwed together.



Step 5. Make sure glue is 100% dry before putting all 3 cam arms together. YOU DO NOT WANT THE FIRST CAM TO STICK TO THE OUTER !! Screw all 3 cam arms back onto rocker using 2 small phillips screws. The original screws are plenty long enough to hold. Replace cam rocker cover with small allen screw. Flip feed tube assembly back down and secure with large allen screw.



Step 6. Looking down the feed tube, cycle marker WITH NO AIR. Make sure the outer 2 cams are catching on the stop allowing the first cam to push into the breach. Also make sure all 3 cams return far enough to allow next paintball to drop with out resistance.




You're done, no go kick some ***!!
Better yet, walk up to a Halo B owner and shoot your marker UPSIDE DOWN!!! Then challenge him to try that. You can now lay down and shoot out of a bunker with your barrel only 1" off the ground. People don't expect you down that low on a bunker!

Point of note: I have the Q-loader at a slight downward angle. If you try to mount it perfectly straight on the Detonator it will block the collar, stopping any adjustment. Once you have the Detonator adjusted and locked in you can readjust the q-loader if you want.

Thanks to 26pcrss "crazycrash" for htelp hosting the pics!!

Last edited by pbking316 : 09-07-2004 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 10-13-2004, 10:52 PM #16
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Old 10-13-2004, 10:52 PM #17
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Think its 2.6 lbs - Not big at all
BKO is a good gun - a toss up to upgrade or go OMEN - if you go omen it may be worth waiting till teh new ups are out
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Old 11-09-2004, 10:40 PM #18
Raydee
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Does the Omen have break Beam eyes?
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Old 11-09-2004, 10:43 PM #19
mauikalohe
 
 
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Nope. It has a mechanical Chop prevention called Cam Feed. Works perfect when set up correctly
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Old 12-06-2004, 09:35 PM #20
BeenPimpSlapped?
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Posting cam arm mod again with pictures that actually work...

Thought I'd show you the easy mod I made to use the Q-loader. By adding another outer cam (short fat one) I was able to use the Q-loader at reduced windings. Once I was confident it was working fine, I glued the outer 2 cams together, making it even stiffer. Works with full 16 winds now. A Q-loader with full winds will drop test over 75BPS!! And that's thru 8" of hose and an elbow! I have also used the new cam arrangement with a V35 Halo and it worked fine at all settings. My PDchip only goes 25 max and with the halo on 35 it still did not bypass the cam jamming the gun.

The extra cam arm was like $7 or so from RJskateworks and he shipped it the day I ordered it!


Step 1. Remove allen screw holding feedtube assembly. Swing assembly up out of the way. Remove small allen screw holding cam arm rocker cover.

Step 2. Remove 2 phillips screws holding cam arms onto the rocker. Make note of inner cam arm position as if you flip it later screw holes between cam arms will not line up with rocker.

Picture shows open cam assembly and final positions of 3 cam arms. (not glued yet.)




Step 3. Screw 2 outer cam arms (short fat) together. This will ensure the holes are lined up later after applying the glue. If you try to line them up by eye, your screws will not fit thru. There is very little room for error.

Step 4. Apply small amount of Super Glue Gel to end of cam arms. Only cover about 50% max and only from where cam arm gets fatter to the end. If you glue the entire thing end to end it will not have enough flex to perform correctly. Super Glue Gel works better than contact cement becuase you can dissolve it later with nail polish remover if you make a mistake. The glued cam arms will be far stiffer than one or even 2 non-glued just screwed together.



Step 5. Make sure glue is 100% dry before putting all 3 cam arms together. YOU DO NOT WANT THE FIRST CAM TO STICK TO THE OUTER !! Screw all 3 cam arms back onto rocker using 2 small phillips screws. The original screws are plenty long enough to hold. Replace cam rocker cover with small allen screw. Flip feed tube assembly back down and secure with large allen screw.



Step 6. Looking down the feed tube, cycle marker WITH NO AIR. Make sure the outer 2 cams are catching on the stop allowing the first cam to push into the breach. Also make sure all 3 cams return far enough to allow next paintball to drop with out resistance.




You're done, no go kick some ***!!
Better yet, walk up to a Halo B owner and shoot your marker UPSIDE DOWN!!! Then challenge him to try that. You can now lay down and shoot out of a bunker with your barrel only 1" off the ground. People don't expect you down that low on a bunker!

Point of note: I have the Q-loader at a slight downward angle. If you try to mount it perfectly straight on the Detonator it will block the collar, stopping any adjustment. Once you have the Detonator adjusted and locked in you can readjust the q-loader if you want.

Thanks to Hdsminolta for the help hosting the pics!!

And as an added bonus, kiddo's, learn to make your very own DYEVIL grips!


Took a small "L" bracket and bent into a "U". The JB welded 1/4-20 nuts onto both outside edges of "U" shaped clip near top lining up with bottom holes on grips. Clip inside is jbwelded to base of grip frame. Then drilled small hole in grip where top hole in grip frame lines up. Filed old top hole with clear silicone. Had to dremel out inside of grip a little to clear noid and battery which stick out of the frame a little. Then painted over DYE jewel with gloss black nail polish. Put an EVIL sticker on jewel and covered with clear nail polish. Since it was my first attempt it's kinda "frankenstein" but looks cool anyway. Might make a more polished one later. Last pic above had a 5mg limit daily so check back if it doesn't load.


JUST ADDED! Omen DM4 Roller trigger MOD:
Okay, 1st this is a work in progress. I still have to tap the back of the blade to insert an extra set screw for a forward stop.

I started with a Shockteck DM4 roller blade trigger. Thought it would fit the shape of the grip nice and liked the dual roller bearings for that smooth as butta feel.


I milled off the back to the edge of the top set screw, rounded the bottom edge of the back to clear the top grip screws, then milled the very bottom of the blade to clear the grip gaurd. Did all of this with a cheap grinder.

Hear are the grip, blade, and 10g micro switch (installed at same time)


Here is the blade after grinding it down.


Close up after installing.


And the final sexy beast:


Pulling back is right on the money. Less than a mouse click but it will return farther than needed untill I add another set screw. Getting a small tap and die kit for X-mas. Right now it rips faster than my stock trigger, though it seems to bounce more as well (new switch?). Will shoot with paint Sunday to really test.

Omen now has:
DYEvil stickie grips
PDP chip
Evil ASA w/ gauge
Shockteck Blade trigger
Cam MOD w/ Q-loader
10g micro switch
New valve and recock
New back block and internals
Clamping low rise feed
68/4500 Crossfire HPA tank with red bumbers

What's next?
Low pressure expansion chamber tapped into front cap.
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Old 12-17-2004, 05:36 PM #21
omenworker
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the omen is not a true low pressure marker.... correct that it runs at a lower pressure than many guns in its class... it is still a high pressure operating marker (230-300psi).... yes the 800 pressure tank is what you want to use on the omen.....
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