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Old 02-19-2004, 05:56 PM #1
LIVE - EVIL
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Post Evil Pimp Kit FAQ

Have something to add or a question? Post it.

The Pimp Kit is out and people are already winning tournaments with these machine guns. The Pimp is an all new gat, but will accept some parts from both Intimidators and Impulses.

Here's a link to Evil's website and their information about the Pimp Kit. More pictures can be found there too.

Current Specifications on New Pimps:

Electro-Pneumatic Open Bolt
Un-Capped Board for insane rate of fire
New 7.0 Board has PSP and uncapped ramping
Break Beam ACE System
Impulse Barrel Threads
Adjustable Respirator LPR
Evil 300 PSI LPR Gauge
Blade Trigger
Adjustable Electronic Trigger Sensitivity
Twist Lock Delrin Bolt - no bolt pin
Dual Timmy Style Ball Detents
Shortstack Feed Tube with o-rings to fit different hoppers
Shocker feedneck threads for easy replacement
Adjustable ROF (eye off)
Adjustable ROF (eye on)
Magnesium Eye Covers
On/Off Bottomline
Macroline
Detonator Vertical Regulator
Matching Pipe Barrel Tip
Evil Punch 2
Barrel Centering O-ring
Evil Grips
1 oz Tube Pus

Current Colors







Discontinued Colors



Q. Do you need an Impulse to use the Pimp Kit?
A. No. The Pimp Kit is only available as a complete gun. You only need a hopper and N2 tank to get going.

Q. Is the Pimp Kit an Impulse?
A. Not at all. No Impulse in the world has any of these features: break beam eyes, an integrated LPR, a twist lock bolt, Timmy style dual ball detents, barrel centering o-ring, and an uncapped board. Plus much, much more.

Q. Is the Pimp Kit an Intimidator?
A. It is closer to a Timmy than an Impulse. It uses a Timmy LPR, Ball Detents, and a similar way of running hoses internally. It has a super high rate of fire like a Timmy as well. The big difference is the Pimp has a larger controlled stroke Ram that makes the Pimp more accurate and less like a Spyder.

Q. Can the Pimp Kit be used on an Evil Omen?
A. No. The Pimp kit is a complete gun.

Q. What type of barrel threads does the Pimp Kit have?
A. Impulse threads. That's why the body is so short. Plus, that is the fastest threaded barrel to remove.

Q. What type of vertical feed threads does the Pimp Kit have?
A. Impulse/Shocker/Piranha threads.


Q. What color does the Pimp Kit come in?
A. Black Dust (Picture Above)
Black/GoldDust Fade (Picture Above)
The new Black, Gold, Silver, Red and Blue ones out now too.

Q. How much does a Pimp Kit weigh?
A. 2.8 pounds. The same as a Lasoya Timmy.

Q. How much is the Pimp Kit?
A. Around $699 MSRP.


Q. Where can I see a video of the Pimp Kit shooting?
A. Try here.

http://www.wheatley-design.com/paintball/Untitled-1.htm

VIDEO 1 - ROF 20bps, Ramp mode 2, Eyes off.

http://home.comcast.net/~daveczrn/MarksaPimp.avi

Another Video... hosted by Mauikalohe

NOTICE... THIS VIDEO CONTAINS FOUL LANGUAGE... SO DON'T WATCH IT IF YOU MIGHT BE OFFENDED.

http://betaftp.webnow.com/dasbalddog/PimpTest2.wmv

1st Clip - Halo Victory Board
2nd Clip - Halo Victory Board
3rd Clip - Revvy XBoard

Q. Does the Pimp require a break in period before use?
A. No. We recomend that you shoot a case or two through your Pimp before adjusting the settings on the LPR or Board. That first 2000 to 4000 shots will give your regulators a chance to break in a little.

Q. What type of grips does the Pimp kit take?
A. Standard .45 grips. However, you might want to hollow them out slightly where they hit the dwell buttons. You don't want to squeeze the grips and accidentally hit them.

What type of Board does the Pimp have?
It has its own unique board. Evil makes an upgrade ramping board called the 7.0 and WAS also makes a Pimp board.

What type of rail does the Pimp On/Off have?
Standard.

What kind of switch comes stock in the Pimp?
80 gram, so you don't have to run a return spring. There are 25 gram switches out there, but they will make your gun bounce.

I want to replace the trigger. Which should I choose?
Evil makes a couple different styles in aluminum and Delrin.
Critical is working on a bearing trigger.
FBM is also working on a trigger.
TheBetterOne here on PBN also makes triggers so PM him if you want something custom.


Does the Pimp use a high or low pressure tank?
It can use either. However, you won't see much performance increase with LP tank. If you have problems with a LP tank then your LP tank has a poor recharge rate. Buy a better one. We recomend the Scion.

Q. Where can I get replacement parts for the PIMP?
A. http://www.piranha-evil.com/Pimp.htm

Q. Where can I get warranty parts for the PIMP?
A. Call Evil - 1-800-579-1633
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Last edited by the.evil.tech : 06-08-2005 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 10-18-2004, 10:49 AM #2
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Pimp FAQ;s

This is the correct way to reassemble the Evil LPR that comes stock on the Pimp.

Take a heavy duty zip lock bag and cut a long thin strip out of the bottom or side. When you cut the bag use a razor blade or sharp scissor to make a good clean cut. Now you will have a long thin strip of plastic.



Insert the plastic down the lower part of the lpr reg body and make sure it is against the wall of the lpr.



Now while holding the plastic strip in place carefully slide the lpr piston in.



Push the piston all the way to the bottom and wiggle is back and forth a little bit. You should have heard some air getting pressed out of the lpr.



Now while holding the piston inside of the reg slowly pull the plastic strip out. To check and make sure that you have gotten all the air out of the lpr push straight down on the lpr piston. If it is able to move in and bounce back like it is compressing an air pocket the procedure did not work. Cut a new strip of plastic and try over. If you push down on the piston and it goes nowhere the procedure worked.



Notice in this picture you see the reg seat part of the piston...

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Old 01-16-2005, 08:28 PM #3
Raydee
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Detent faq

I hope this post helps and if it does i will post more threads to help new Pimp owners. Now I know most of you guys know how to change your Pimp detents but in case you don't or never have here is a quick run through.

First off changing the stock detents is very easy. The stock PMI detents are pretty soft and won't last that long so I opted to get Timmy hard detents from a guy here on PbNation. I get around 3000 shots with the stock detents and so far the hard detents have yet to fail with well over 4000 shots. The stock detents are pretty cheap at around .50 cents each and the hard Timmy detents are around $1.50 each. The Timmy detents look like they are slightly shorter than the stock detents but hold the paintballs perfectly.

First you will need a set of Allen wrenches to work on your Pimp. Simply remove the eye covers which are held by two allen screws.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/d1.JPG

Once you do that the Eye and the detent will be visible and either still in the marker frame or stuck to the eye cover. If the eye did come out of the frame carefully push it back into the frame.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/d2.JPG

It may be hard to see in the pic but this detent is showing signs of wear and the top of the detent is actually cut.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/d3.JPG

http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/d4.JPG

Here is the new Timmy hard detent, simply install it either in the marker frame of the eye cover and reinstall the cover with the 2 allen screws and you are done. Make sure you don't pinch the eye wires when you put the covers back on.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/d5.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/d6.JPG

Next will be a grip frame and trigger removal faq.

EDIT....sorry but the pics no longer work, my picture hosting site is gone. If you have a site to host the pics email me and I will put them there......EDIT
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Last edited by Raydee : 10-01-2005 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 01-16-2005, 08:37 PM #4
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Trigger frame removal Faq

I am going to do my best to describe the way I take the trigger frame off my Pimp. There may be a faster way but this is the way I do it.

First off you will need a set of allen wrenches to work on your Pimp. I like to use a white towel under my gun when I work on it just in case I lose one of the screws because they will show up easy against the white backround.

First step to removing the trigger frame is very easy, take the four screws out that hold the grips on.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/1.JPG

Next I take a allen wrench and loosen the screw that holds the on/off adaper on. Once it is loose the adapter will slide off the rail. You don't need to remove the screw, just loosen it until the on/off slides easily.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/2.JPG

Now I take and unscrew the Evil Det and pull it and the on/off away from the marker.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/3.JPG

Next remove the four allen screws that hold the grip panel on the frame. You may have to loosen the rail to get the panel off the marker.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/4.JPG

Once you have the grip panel removed the battery and board will be exposed.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/6.JPG

There is one screw that holds the board to the frame that needs to be removed.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/7.JPG

Now look at the underside of the marker and you will see two bolts that hold the grip to the body of the marker. loosen and remove both of them.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/8.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/9.JPG

With the two bolts removed gently seperate the grip frame from the body. The grip frame will pull away from the body with the board and noid still attached to the marker.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/10.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/11.JPG

The only wires that will hold the grip frame to the board are the wired that go to the micro switch. Simply disconnect the white plug and the grip frame is now seperated from the rest of the gun.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/12.JPG
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/13.JPG

Inside the grip frame you will see the micro switch and right above it is the trigger spring that adjusts the tension on the trigger. If you want a softer pull on the trigger then back the set screw out a bit and visa versa. Be careful that you don't take the screw completely out because if the spring comes out it is hard to get back in. Some people have completely removed the spring but have complained that the trigger is way to bouncy after that and will be illegal for tournament play.
http://users.adelphia.net/~raydee/14.JPG

Next Faq will be micro switch and trigger removal.
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Old 01-25-2005, 05:29 PM #5
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[/b]Problems with Chopping or Breaking paint?[/b]

You can check to see if you need ball detents by taking the barrel and/or bolt off and look into the breech.

The pimp comes with some extras.

If the detents look ok you may want to check the shape of the paint - sometimes the paint if too mishaped and too brittle can be forced through neck causing it too break. Check http://rjskateworks.com - he has harder detents it it continues to be a problem for you.

Another cause may be your BIP (ball in palce delay) is too low for your hopper (if its not a halo). You can try upping it.

Finally, though there may be others, check your bolt positioning.

This can be done pulling the bolt back gentley to the furthest position. Drop a ball into the breach.
If it doens't drop due to the bolt then it is too far forward.
If it drops ok, then point the marker upward. If the ball rolls back too far and the led indicator turns red then the bolt is back too far.

Only reposition the ram adjust IF needed. Otherwise it can cause problems.

Last edited by the.evil.tech : 06-08-2005 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 01-26-2005, 05:21 PM #6
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You may need to change setting.
With a halo my PIMP rips faster or just as fast as any marker on the team (legal settings for tournies).
We have Dm5s, vikings and more. - PIMP is just as good as any of those and better than most on the team.

BIP, ETS, Hopper and trigger adjustments all make for speed differences
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Old 02-02-2005, 11:11 PM #7
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The easiest way I can think to answer all your questions is to say just download the manual and read every word of it.

Anytime I am thinking about a new marker I download the manual and read it before I buy the new marker, it usually helps out a lot.

This should be a direct link.
http://www.evil-paintball.com/Pimp%20Manual%201.0.pdf
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Old 02-13-2005, 05:35 PM #8
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I think that Dow is the same as the Evil Pus so unless someone else says different then its ok to use in the Pimp.
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:35 PM #9
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Evil Pus is Dow33

Here is a bit of info I came across:

Quote:
Originally posted by vantrepes
As lbreevesii said, Dow 33 is a grease, while Dow 55 is a sealant, and a grease. Either can be used in place of the other (keep reading, there is a difference in performance), but they have different properties.

The main difference is that Dow 55 has an additive that will be absorbed by Bruna o-rings, and make them swell slightly. This creates a better seal, but also causes more drag, because the o-ring will have a tighter fit. A tighter fit means more drag if it's used on a dynamic seal, but it also means a better seal if it's used on a static one.

Dow 33 doesn't have that additive, so it will only lubricate, with little additional sealing properties beyond a gap filling action of any grease.

Place to use Dow 33:
Bolt o-rings, three ways, reg piston seals, just about any o-ring that moves back and forth inside something will benefit from Dow 33.

Places to use Dow 55:
Valve body o-rings, reg body o-rings, or ram body o-rings. Just about anywhere that the o-ring needs to seal two parts together, but doesn't move after assemble. The 55 will cause the o-ring to swell, filling the available space, and providing a better, tighter seal in the long term.

Short answer: Dow 33 can go anywhere, but Dow 55 does a better job long term in SOME places in a cocker.

Places not to use either one:
Ram piston seals. The ram can develop "sticktion" from the grease creating a vacuum effect between the flat of the piston, and the ram body. This is what can cause FSDO in open bolt electros.
btw: Some manufacturers will void your warranty if they find out you are using the incorrect lube.
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Old 02-27-2005, 09:33 PM #10
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If its new it needs a brief break in period. I recently got a new Det for my Pimp and noticed the same exact thing. After a few thousane dry fires it is shooting very well on the chrono. Give it some time and it will be much better.
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Old 03-07-2005, 06:33 PM #11
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I have never had to use a allen key to adjust my LPR. I just turn the cap and it adjusts fine. I am not sure if others have a different LPR but I doubt it. THe allen screw is there just in case you have to adjust the LPR while the Pimp is aired up and the pressure prevents you from twisting the cap. Adjusting the LPR with the Pimp aired up isn't the best thing to do anyway.

XrayCat where is your LPR and dwell? When the Pimp is brand new its a gas hog but after the regs break in it will be much better.
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Old 03-26-2005, 11:00 PM #12
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Having problems with odd velocity spikes? Try turning your dwell up slightly and your reg down. If that doesn't work, and you've put more than 10 cases through your Pimp, here's how to rebuild your Detonator courtesy of Omenworker.

The regulator is the number one culprit to such ailments... and i wanted to give the evil forum a HOW TO!! break down the evil detonator regulator.... I personally breakdown, clean, and relube my detonator after every 4 cases i shoot through it... we have been witness to the ranking of the detonator as one of the best regulators on the market, so this thread is to help everyone keep their reg operating correctly and smoothly...

Evil Detonator Step by Step Breakdown

1. OK so heres your reg off of the gun and ready for service...



2. Now the first thing to do is to loosen the adjusting ring set screw so the adjusting ring spins easily. Then screw the adjusting ring down until the WHOLE retaining screw on the main body is exposed... This will allow you to remove that retaining screw....



3. Now once youve removed the retaining screw, unscrew the top (main body) completely from the lower body....



4. Now set the main body (top half) aside for right now... well get back to that later.... now holding the bottom half in your hand you can see a brass seal retainer... you need to unscrew this but be careful..... sometimes it will come loose with your hands...but sometimes its tighter.... if this is the case you need to use some soft-tip pliers... the object is not to mar the surface or edge of the seal retainer......



5. Now thats removed you are now looking at the regulator seat... this is the most important part of the reg and its removal is not necessary unless it is damaged on the surface... then you need to get a new one..... i wouldnt suggest removing it for any other reason..... simply wipe it off... and regrease it.... (sorry i refer to grease because i use dow..... if you use oil... just fill in the blanks....put oil where i say to grease) now there is also another seal down in the bottom of this area... you cant see it... and unless you have a problem with leaking... you shouldnt take that part (inner tube) out.... ill show you how to get grease on that next.....



6. OK, now go back to the seal retainer you removed..... and look up inside... you will see something that looks like a crosshair.... this needs to be pushed out..... and youll find that an oring is in there as well...... these parts need to be wiped off and relubed as the picture show... notice that the picture shows to put some grease on the inside lip of the seal retainer.... this takes care of the oring that I spoke of in the last step that you cant see.....
After you have cleaned and relubed those parts you must install them back into the retainer.... use a soft tipped object... like a pencil eraser to do this....



OK so far before you move on.... reassemble the bottom half by going in the opposite order that i explained the breakdown.... make sure thats back together before we move to the top (main body)

7. Ok holding the main body in your hand you can see that there is a small retainer in the top of it.... this is called a "snap ring" in order to remove this properly and without causing harm to your reg, you need to have a pair of snap ring pliers... to be more exact.. you need to have internal snap ring pliers.... you can buy these at autozone really cheap... and they even have snap ring pliers that are combination of internal and external.... Anyway remove that ring with the pliers



(this is just a picture of the snap ring pliers im referring to)



8. Now that ring is out... we need to remove the piston assembly from the main body.... to do this....flip the main body over... and you will see the tube of the piston.... using the same pencil eraser as before... push the shaft and the piston will come out of the top of the reg....



9. This is what you get when the piston is out.... wipe down each part... and regrease..... at this time i always use either qtips of paper towels to wipe out the inside of the main body as well.....once its clean and relubed... reinstall the piston.... use the eraser again to push the piston down.... make sure the top of the piston is below the groove that the snap ring sets in.... replace the snap ring and we are in business...



10. Well the last part is to reassemble the top and bottom bodies of the reg... this is where most people have problems..... so follow my lead..... screw the top (main body) into the bottom body..... now alot of people have a problem with knowing where to stop... heres the trick.... screw in the top half... but the whole time look inside the little hole that the retaining screw goes in.... you will see the flange of the seal retainer as you screw..... the picture below was to show that....but its not very clear....... once you see the flange.... continue to screw in the body until the flange passes the hole.... as soon as the flange is clear of the hole.... put in the retaining screw..... now heres the other trick..... dont bottom the retaining screw on the seal retainer.... only put the retaining screw in enough so that the adjuster ring will screw over it without rubbing it...... ....



AND VIOLA!! you have successfully serviced your detonator...... below is a exploded view of the reg to help you if you seem to get lost along the way..... please feel free to pm me for questions or problems with my instructions......

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Last edited by the.evil.tech : 03-26-2005 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 03-29-2005, 07:20 PM #13
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Pimp Trigger Adjustment

There are two screws that control the Length of the trigger pull and the location of the trigger when the Micro switch is activated. The screw in the center of the trigger plate (Figure 1) is the screw that controls the length of the trigger pull. If you turn that screw clockwise, or so the screw goes toward the rear of the gun, you will shorten the pull. If you turn that screw counter-clockwise, or if the screw goes toward the front of the gun, you will lengthen the pull.
The screw that is in the top of the trigger arm is not visible if the trigger is in the gun, but can be adjusted through a hole in the trigger frame right behind the trigger itself (Figure 1). That screw controls when the micro switch is activated. If you hold the gun upside down, and turn that screw clockwise that screw will activate the micro switch sooner (Figure 2). If you turn that screw counter-clockwise that screw will activate the micro switch later in the pull (Figure2).

Trouble Shooting:


PROBLEM/
Solution


Trigger will not engage micro switch
Unscrew the trigger plate screw or screw the trigger arm screw in (clockwise)


Gun goes directly into program mode when turned on
Unscrew the trigger arm screw (counter-clockwise)

Gun automatically by-passes eyes
Unscrew the trigger arm screw (counter-clockwise)

Figure1


Figure2
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Old 03-30-2005, 03:01 PM #14
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Ram Maintenance

1. De-gas marker and remove air system.

2. Using an adjustable wrench remove the Ram Cap


3. Remove bolt.

4.Locate two oposite wrench flats on the main body of the ram at the back of the marker.


5.Using an adjustable wrench unscrew the ram body from the marker. Be careful not to scratch the body of the marker.


6.Once the ram is fully unthreaded pull the main body of the ram out of the body of the marker.



7. Lightly lubricate four o-rings on ram main body of ram and also the ram shaft.


8. Lightly lubricate inside of ram body and end of ram shaft.


9. Lubricate inner and outer O-rings on ram cap.


10. Thread ram cap onto ram main body.

11. Slide ram back into body of marker and thread in.

12. Replace Bolt.

13. Go shoot some foolz

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Old 04-12-2005, 11:16 PM #15
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can someone explain with pics, how to adjust the LPR's opperating pressure?

thanks
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Old 05-15-2005, 09:14 PM #16
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Ok guys,

What is the different between the first release model of the Evil Pimp and the new release?
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Old 06-04-2005, 01:00 PM #17
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How much is the cable to update the software on the WAS board for ramping?
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Old 06-08-2005, 01:40 PM #18
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ok, now I'm confused. In the pimp manual it says taking apart the reg will void the warranty so is this something I shouldn't do if I want to keep the warranty?
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Old 06-08-2005, 06:29 PM #19
EVILMAN666
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they are talking about the hpr(detonator) because if you mess it up they dont want to give you a new one

to answer your question YES dont touch it

if something is wrong call evil and talk to a tech first
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Last edited by EVILMAN666 : 06-08-2005 at 06:32 PM.
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Old 06-09-2005, 08:18 PM #20
zakry p
 
 
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does any body have problems with ball detents wearing out fast??
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Old 06-09-2005, 08:31 PM #21
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i used to

it is because your dents might be to long i think that was the problem with evil first run od dentents

now they are shorter and dont break

or your bolt could be moving to far forward and this can be adjusted look in your owners manual
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