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Old 03-11-2002, 12:38 PM #1
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derlin bolts

where can i find raw derlin...just like in blocks or whatever...i am interested in makin my own bolts...cuz i get bored alot and need sumthin to fill up my time...plus i no a guy with a great design...he is workin on my stock impulse bolt...and i wanna see if i can copy it to a derlin model...any response is appreciated

if u wanna email me:
s_bdboggio@clarion.edu
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Old 03-11-2002, 04:38 PM #2
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i was told there is a material known as DELrin not DERlin...no its not a typo either...just to clarify...does anybody no what the difference is or if the can be used for the same things as a substitute???

thanx
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Old 03-11-2002, 07:27 PM #3
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www.smallparts.com great company, i have their catalong, if ya need help, LMK

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Old 03-11-2002, 07:55 PM #4
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go to www.mcmaster.com and run a search for "DELRIN" make sure NOT to look up DERLIN by mistake. you can buy round stock 3/4 " dia for about 2 bucks a foot. i buy it and make bolts out of it for my company.
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Old 03-12-2002, 02:11 PM #5
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hey thanx alot for the responses
WERM told me about smallparts and i also herd about mcmaster or whatever it was...i will look into both of them...thanx again...then i can just use a tap and dye set for the ball bering and spring to keep the bolt pin in right???
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Old 03-12-2002, 09:38 PM #6
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mcmaster.com

go to the bottom right, it says raw materials. find thermoplastics. then go to Acetal. then rods, then delrin (duh.) Go to 3/4 in. go to the color and click black. the white is cheaper, but it will give you too many problems.
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Old 03-12-2002, 11:51 PM #7
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why would white 'give you more problems'? Just curious about your reasoning.....
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Old 03-13-2002, 03:04 AM #8
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I would like to know y to?
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Old 03-13-2002, 03:35 AM #9
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theres nothing wrong with the white, its a little softer. also look at the teflon impregnated stuff, a little expensive, but trust me, smooooth movement
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Old 03-13-2002, 04:46 AM #10
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Softer.......Hmmm. I think maybe you're thinking of 'virgin' delrin which is quite soft. once it's been worked or heatedit hardens up some. Adding color thru boiling the white part in a DYE/water solution hardens it right up as well. If you toss a little table salt into the mix, you can get some pretty good results.....
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Old 03-13-2002, 10:58 AM #11
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wow

i never thought when i posted this thread that it would take off like this...all the input is really helpful...i have noticed the teflon imprenated stuff...thanx again for the help
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Old 03-13-2002, 11:07 AM #12
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hey i placed my order today...now u guys mentioned sumthin about hardening it and dying...i no the dying isn't necessary but is the hardening...i mean this will be the FIRST time i try this...and who knows how it will turn out...i am jsut tryin to look for as much input as i can
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Old 03-13-2002, 03:59 PM #13
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Delrin is just an a stronger industrial plastic. If you want to machine your own bolt, look into Nylon.

Nylon is a cool product to make a bolt out of, easy to turn down and overall to machine with, nice smooth finish too - butter. Just make sure you get decent nylon, I think 6/6 Nylon is what we got, we have the cheapest white nylon in 1 inch stock.

I turned a cocker bolt out of nylon, it's pretty sweet. The only problem is that nylon absorbs oil real easy and kinda stays there, it soaks in to about a half a thousandth of an inch or more and rensing with water can be difficult to get it out, so something like real fine sand paper, steel wool, and anything related will take it out... only problem is, you're tolerances on the bolt will continue to get smaller as you sand off the oil over long period's of time.

We had an old 99 STO bolt, cut the front venturi head off leaving the the entire bolt plus the turned down neck of it.. we turned down a piece of nylon - tapped and died for that neck, I think it was about 3/8-16 threads it wound up to be, cant remember anyway, really dumb since the guy shouldn't have used NC threads - the nylon piece we made when threaded ended up to be offcenter somehow to the threads, and it looked horrible - and he looked like an idiot after he said the bolt was going to be "superior". He must have threaded something wrong, or a hole was off center from the chuck somehow.. - we trashed it but it was a cool idea. We came to the conclusion that the Nylon threads to 6061 alumunum threads (on the STO bolt) would eventually strip itself after continous use.

Some cool ideas though
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Old 03-13-2002, 08:37 PM #14
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i have found that nylon as actually a pain-in-the arse to do anything with past low tolerance machining. its just too soft.
and when i used white delrin to make a bolt (i got it from mcmaster) it swelled up on a hot day and rendered my gun useless. i got the black stuff and it hasnt happened since. dont ask why, but the white stuff didnt work too well in hot (humid) weather, which new england has a good deal of.
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Old 03-14-2002, 06:38 PM #15
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Yeah, I had a very hard time to get a smooth surface finish when you're manually turning it - regardless of a .050'' to a .005'' cut, grindable steel cutting tools aren't the preference I had - I looked around in the shop for a left hand turning tool with a decent carbide insert to put in the post that noone was using that day, I found both - luckily.

I've turned only about 5-6 nylon pieces and it was mostly stuff that was own projects, cocker bolt for an example. Never had swelling problems, but when I grinded my own cutter no matter how sharpe I grinded it on coarse and fine grinding wheels on a staionary grinder, the finishes just didn't seem to great - they were useable, but not as nice as the insert did. I'm not the best at grinding cutting tools though, decent at it but not real good.

Acrylic is a cool material to work with, its like wax but leaves real nice smooth surfaces - easy to cut, tolerances are decent but the material itself is weak vs. White Nylon 6/6.
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Old 03-14-2002, 08:56 PM #16
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what tools can i use to sand down the delrin...could i use sand paper...like a fine grain one???
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Old 03-15-2002, 03:56 PM #17
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yep fine sandpaper will work. the tool geometry for nylon is very special. you need about 25-35 degrees of backrake. a very large nose radius and a low clearance angle. it must be very smooth as well. i use a 1000grit diamond grind wheel to hone my nylon cutting tools. chip control is also a very important thing on nylon. just a slight drag on the lead of the tool and the finish will be bad. serface speed isnt too critical, just use it to control the chip. a high feed rate is also key to good finish.
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Old 03-15-2002, 11:43 PM #18
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if u get derlin hot it gets bigger but when it cools off it gets smaller just leting u know it does expand greatly
that is why when u buy some derlin bolts they wont fit cause u can not consistantly make them
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Old 03-16-2002, 09:23 PM #19
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The expanding...

Punisher: You mentioned after using the DYE/water solution and a bit of salt hardened the bolt, would that decrease the chance of it swelling on hot humid days? If not, what would? I run delrins in both my spyders...
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Last edited by VomusY : 03-16-2002 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 03-16-2002, 11:20 PM #20
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lol, unfortunently, I had all the options that spud did except the toolroom lathe I was using along with others around unfortunently have spindle speed problems, the lathe is a good lathe don't get me wrong but the adjusting knobs/ways on 2/3 older (I mean old, they weren't even popular lathes back when they got them) lathes we got automatically spring back to the lowest RPM (340 out of backgear), the pin that holds the adjuster is broke or something that makes contact with the motor is snapped off or ruined, we fixed one once, but it broke again and no one has never fixed it. Backgear is the same way... fortunently, our autofeed still works semi-good - the knobs and gear selections are worn out as well however if you rattle her around a bit she'll stay , anyway I compensated for slower RPMs by slowest feed rate, it still didn't turn out as good as I wanted it, but it worked. The live center I wanted to use was the only we had and someone was using it, so I had to use a dead one, since our other live centers aren't as good, the bearings have over like 300 hours, seriously lol :-(
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Old 03-17-2002, 09:28 PM #21
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w00t!

Yeah our lathes rock dont they Tauk? Most reliable peices of machinery on the planet! LOL
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