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Old 10-05-2004, 06:30 AM #22
dEATh
 
 
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Off topic, but a reply non the less:
My sig is both a warning, "this message may contain miss spelled words" and just a lil satire on the f-ed up copyright/patent laws and such.
It should also tell you that "no I can't spell for s-it and no I don't really care"

The end bit with the "law-suit" is suposed to be miss spelt and refer to clothing and thus take the edge off a bit.

It's kinda intresting, I've had that sig since I joined this forum and you are the first to ask about it.

//dEATh
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Old 10-19-2004, 09:28 AM #23
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hey i have a questin again. ok so the dwell on a mayhem is like 80 milaseconds right, thats a long time for a valve to be open and might as well put a barrel on a hp tank and call it good, but seriously you can adjust the dwell with the predator morlock right so if you put the dwell way down and turn the pressure up you should be able to get effiency and still shoot a good velocity right
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Old 10-21-2004, 03:08 AM #24
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I don't think that the dwell time should affect velocity at all. Specially since a shot is done in something like 4~6ms. What I mean is: in a correctly set up marker, the dwell time should not affect the speed. At least that's the opinion of the WAS guy. He must know a thing or two about this.
But please remember that in the Mayhem you actually control the spool valve, which will take out the pressure that keeps the poppet plus bolt back. So if your dwell affects the speed, then you are having incomplete cycles.
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Old 10-21-2004, 10:39 AM #25
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None of the parts from the 80 will mix with the Mayhem. I looked BRIEFLY and didn't find an easy way to two stage the Mayhem. The best way to keep from chopping is to install eyes. We all know that sucker will severe anything unfortunate enough to find it's way half way in the breech. The SS solenoid SHOULD help you if you convert to open bolt, otherwise I don't think the solenoid is any restriction. I have yet to try and fit one on mine, but I'm going to just because they're available to me. We've have a small pile of Mayhems here that don't work so I bought one just to have a "challenge tinker project". We didn't have any PGI regs so I made a vertical ASA. I'll find a way to super charge this thing if it kills me. My answers to this thread are limited right now, I just started back working on the Mayhem yesterday. (re-assembly) Hopefully I will come up with some creative operation changes!! On a spool valve, dwell does effect velocity. The breech has to charge for a certain time (milliseconds) to build enough pressure for decent velocity. But I strongly agree with baldusi. I think anything past 15 milliseconds is just hindering your fire rate......If I had to guess, I would say 12 milliseconds on the Mayhem would be perfect. Swansen, you are absolutly right........but the solenoid can only handle 150psi. I think the Clippard catolog says 105psi. max input. I don't know how happy they are at 150psi. but it will function.

*12 ms on the Mayhem won't even move the bolt*

Last edited by Kirk@WM : 03-29-2005 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 10-21-2004, 03:54 PM #26
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I've bought a Palmer Sideline Stab and made applied the Low Pressure Kit. I'll get a picture as soon as it's finished. But I guess it should work just as good as the PGI reg, if not better (sorry, I have a weakness to PPS and AKA regulators.) Other than that some nice tinkering to the gun will be to install eyes, add a 90 feed (and do both things at the same time, that''s a challenge!). I was thinking of adapting an old cocker frame to it. May be the easiest way would be to make a new adaptor plate. This would allow for a couple os nice mods. An on/off switch, a charging plug for a rechargeable battery, a new electric connector to the solenoid. If you change the solenoid you might even cover the whole wire. Just some ideas.
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Old 10-25-2004, 10:50 AM #27
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sorry i haven't replied in a few days, ok i know the mayhem has the ability to be sweet it just need a lot of help along the way. so i plan on putting a horizontal max-flo on it and then putting hte pgi reg on a low pressure spyder of mine, do you think the pgi reg would run around 300 psi. Also i plan on getting a clamping no rise, the pred morlock with eyes, and new solenoid. Also the pb shop owner here makes bolts and i want him to make me a delrin bolt with a wall thicker than a razer blade stock bolt. I also want to do a lot the trigger frame. Since its made of some decently nice plastic and that its plastic it shouldn't be hard to work with. I want to heat it up and bend it to make it a 90 dregree trigger frame. I also want to cut and weld on a bigger finger gaurd for a double finger trigger. i haven't decided if i want to build a new trigger or just build a new shoe. Also i want to make a new trigger tray, mabey a hollow one, but i definetly want some excess out the front so i can mount a vertical asa. but i was thinking of making it hollow so i could put the eye wires and board in the tray. about the solenoid i have read about people putting boblong solenoids on mayhems and depending on what way the hoses are set up it will run closed or open bolt, so i figure the ss solenoid will would work like that to.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:21 AM #28
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hey do you guys have any new info or pictures
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Old 12-18-2004, 11:08 AM #29
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I've attached the Palmer Sideline, but I'm waiting for the MiniMorlock (with any luck on Monday). Since I'm going on vacations soon (Southern hemisphere, we are in summer vacations). Reallystically I won't have anythining until February.
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Old 12-19-2004, 03:37 PM #30
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yeah i was about to say screw tag sportz and go with hte mini morlcok, but there will be pred morlocks for reatil on their site in 2 weeks. Also i killed my trigger frame times 5 so i have to make a new one oh well it'll give me something to do, i'll prolly post a pic of the destroyed frame as soon as i make the new one. but yeah same here i'm having a hell of a time trying to get things in order.
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Old 12-19-2004, 04:09 PM #31
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What'd you do to your frame?
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:56 AM #32
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Yep. I'll also make a new frame. Personally, the sock one sucks. It's plastic, doesn't have enough space for the morlock and you can't route the cables to the on/off switch I'm planning without compromising the frame integrity.
I havo to admit that's the lightest frame ever, thou.
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Old 12-20-2004, 07:44 PM #33
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what did i do to my frame, what didn't i do to my frame, ooo wait does anyone know the stock microswitch, like 50 or 5 gram, anyways i succeeded in making the stock trigger into a double finger, and also made the twice wide as the stock stigger plate. So after it was decent i just had to go bein myself and, be like hey wouldn't it be cool if it was vertical feed. So i thought of ways to bend the plastic, a heat gun or torch, used both and it didn't work just succeed in making bubble in the surface. Turns out its a weird kind of plastic. So i then started to chop at the frame by way to band saw and rotary tool. Then i looked for some good plastic bonding materials. I found two very good ones, this one dentists use and this other thick purle stuff which would have been perfect if i could have found it again, or more like put the time in to look around the internet for it again. So i used superglue, which is strong enough just doesn't fill gaps very well and when it tries to it doesn't dry right, so you can kinda get the idea from there. yeah....... thats ok thats what they make mills and delin for, on a side note delrin seems to melt very nicely good for plastic welding.
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Old 12-21-2004, 09:30 AM #34
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I wouldn't be so sure about the properties of Delrin after melting it. At least not with home methods. Besides, you can't really put screws in it since they will surely strip. You'd have to put some metal inserts first. Besides, the weight of the frame is not as important since it's in the center of rotation (your hand). It's much more important the weight of the breech and barrel in that sence.
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Old 01-10-2005, 09:49 AM #35
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yes tuesday i will be ording a predator morlock. Woo finally i can start builing, also i am planning on installing an lpr, i will try to get picture of the stuff i'm doing and also steps to the various installs and the results
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Old 01-10-2005, 12:15 PM #36
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A LPR for what? I've replaced the stock reg with a LP Palmer Side Stab. But you don't really need more than that. May be HPR if you want a double regulated setup.
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Old 01-11-2005, 09:09 AM #37
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no wait i'm installing a boblong solenoid so the lpr will go directly to the solenoid, mabey i can tweek something, might help the chopage or the effiency, i have a horizontal max-flo for the reg, plus a lpr would just be cool and that way i only need one plug for the solenoid verses 2, oh yeah i say yer post about spitting of the air and i thought about just recycling it, if i could get a fitting and where the exhaust is and run a hose to somewhere in the marker, mabe back to the asa before the regulator, or something. I think that will work i am going to mess around with it, but yeah i've been determined to fix that as well, and i will.... i hope.

Last edited by Swansen : 01-11-2005 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 01-11-2005, 05:15 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally posted by Swansen
no wait i'm installing a boblong solenoid so the lpr will go directly to the solenoid, mabey i can tweek something, might help the chopage or the effiency, i have a horizontal max-flo for the reg, plus a lpr would just be cool and that way i only need one plug for the solenoid verses 2, oh yeah i say yer post about spitting of the air and i thought about just recycling it, if i could get a fitting and where the exhaust is and run a hose to somewhere in the marker, mabe back to the asa before the regulator, or something. I think that will work i am going to mess around with it, but yeah i've been determined to fix that as well, and i will.... i hope.
If you want to separate the solenoid valve input from the rest of the system yu'll have to make a new manifold. But you might get a slight improvement in efficiency. I mean slight because the worst part is spent when keeping the bolt open.
The other part is that you can't really reuse the output from the spool (the spitting air) because the marker would stop working.

Last edited by baldusi : 01-11-2005 at 05:18 PM.
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