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Old 02-09-2005, 07:58 PM #22
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grease is ok for moving parts. What a lot of people will tell you is that it is not intended for fast parts or parts with a long stroke like the bolt or hammer.

I am no expert on lube so I can't really prove anything except for what I have seen in my own guns. Alot of people like to make examples of cars for paintball. They will tell you about how you grease your wheel bearrings and oil your engine.

As long as the grease doesn't hurt your seals it is fine to put inside the ram (this was on my tribal not an 03 or 02). Grease can be seasonal as you will see if you have cold winters and warm summers. dye slick lube is fine here during summer but in winter you need to cut it with some oil or something thinner. As for my tribal ram I use about a 50/50 mix of grease and pbgun oil.

The biggest thing about grease in my oppinion is making sure it won't hurt anything in your gun, and then don't loc tite the part shut untill your sure that grease is performing alright.

as with anything, if in doubt.. don't.

sorry I didn't read the date of the last post yet, hope this isn't diggin up a post thats been idle for 6 months
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:30 PM #23
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heres the internals, everythings right except for the ram, its backwards...


frame taken apart to show how everything goes 2gether
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Old 03-20-2005, 05:22 PM #24
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can i replace the switch on a stock tx trigger frame
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Old 03-20-2005, 06:06 PM #25
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Yes u can heres how

1) Remove grips.

2) Remove the plug connector from the electronic board thats connected to the wire thats connected to the switch. You can just use a small flathead precision screwdriver and put it between the plug connector and board receptacle.

3) Punch the pin that hold the trigger in out from the right side of the trigger frame

4) Unscrew the microswitch screws(2) from the trigger frame

5) Pull the microswitch through the front of the trigger frame along with the wires and connector. Be careful not to damage the connector when pulling it through the trigger frame. (For tx pull through top.)

6) Unsolder the old switch from the two wires going to the connector. After removed, heat the wire end and remove as much old solder as possible. You can either heat it and tap the wire on a hard surface quickly or heat it and use a piece of cloth to quickly wipe the solder off.

7) Solder the two wires back onto the new switch, black to the bottom and brown to the middle. No wires go to the top unless there is an r/t mod done to your e-frame. Make sure that the bottom of the switch is at the bottom end where the black wire is soldered.

8) Touch the battery post to the battery connector and turn the e-frame on to the ‘on’ position and depress the microswitch button to be sure that everything is working properly proceeding to the next step.

9) Pull the wires and plug connector back through the trigger frame being careful not to damage the connector when doing so.

10) Put the microswitch back in place making sure that the button is toward the bottom. Install the pins(2) through the trigger frame and microswitch holes. Tap them into the trigger frame with a punch.

11) Install the plug connector back into the board receptacle after being sure that all the wires are in their proper routing orientation.

12) Put the trigger back along with the trigger spring and put the trigger pin back in the e-frame then tap it back it back in with a punch from the left side.

13) Push the wires of the harness back into the place then reinstall the battery, nuts and grips back onto the trigger frame making sure none of the wires are between the grips and trigger frame and/or battery.

Its directions for a spyder but its close enough and thats how i did it.
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Last edited by TXinOH : 03-20-2005 at 06:16 PM.
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Old 04-05-2005, 05:29 PM #26
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can a spyder front block fit a torid x?

i am asking this for draxxus078...
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Old 04-07-2005, 12:10 PM #27
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Yes a spyder front block can fit a Torid X, Torid, and T.E.S. I have a Check It 15 degree assault block (for a Spyder) on my Torid. Works great. Trinity also sells a 7 degree block that slants towards your trigger frame. Pretty cool too I think.
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Last edited by BUNK_CrackMonkey : 04-07-2005 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 04-08-2005, 03:59 PM #28
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check my siggy... cobalt Odyssey O3e w/ extras. This IS an O3e from the first batch and does NOT suffer from the efficiency prbs as MOST other O3e's do. 95% of the faded and some of the solid color O3es get horrible efficiency. My O3 gets around 800-850 shots off a 68/45 which isnt bad at all. Plus I have alot of crap to throw in the package includnig nice CP barrels.

if anyone is interested!
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Old 04-09-2005, 12:28 AM #29
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NICE O3 pro_balla......I have had an O3 or 2. All of which suffer from effiency problem. You have to adjust the dwell, and not many people can. My O3's run like a charm, with new dwell settings of course. I wish Odyssey would come out with a data cable, but that will never happen. It's such an awesome gun.
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Old 04-09-2005, 11:47 AM #30
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well on the first batched O3's, teh dwell was set to a decent setting, so we all got a decent efficiency. Scenario Dreams is releasing a Tboard for it, and this will also allow you to adjust dwell.
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Old 04-18-2005, 03:38 PM #31
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What feed necks does the O3 take?
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Old 04-19-2005, 12:06 AM #32
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comes with a fine feedneck. Just use it. IMO
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Old 04-19-2005, 09:12 AM #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by MadRopes
comes with a fine feedneck. Just use it. IMO
Nope it cracked off ... literally ... the metal snapped.
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Old 05-03-2005, 09:58 PM #34
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Two thing I noticed while Upping my 03. You can use the stock rail that is on the frame. Although it is slightly on the small size I found that if you buy another set screw it will hold the asa in place much better. The screw cost me a whole 30 cents. Also when installing a new reg if your input whole doesn't line up where you want it you can always take off the VA and turn it 180 degrees. This will allow the hose to be on the other side. Two simple things that you guys may have already done but I thouhgt I would just put them up.
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Old 05-04-2005, 11:06 AM #35
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Still wondering if any other feednecks with fit the O3.
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Old 05-04-2005, 03:01 PM #36
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You could but a new one from Odyssey, or you could buy a spyder feedneck and mod it like I did. All you have to do is:
1. using a dremmel or grinding bit in a dril press, grind the small ring that is around the feedneck so that it is even with the rest of it.
2. Grind the tabs down until they fit into the O3's slots.
3. Get the feedneck reanodized or spraypaint it.
(This is for use with the Spyder feednecks with tabs/ears)
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Old 05-07-2005, 12:56 PM #37
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Does anybody know what triggers fit the O3? The T1, dragun, and drallion triggers all look about the same.
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Old 05-07-2005, 05:15 PM #38
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TES/drallion triggers fit perfectly
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Old 05-08-2005, 12:32 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally posted by SSPB09
You could but a new one from Odyssey, or you could buy a spyder feedneck and mod it like I did. All you have to do is:
1. using a dremmel or grinding bit in a dril press, grind the small ring that is around the feedneck so that it is even with the rest of it.
2. Grind the tabs down until they fit into the O3's slots.
3. Get the feedneck reanodized or spraypaint it.
(This is for use with the Spyder feednecks with tabs/ears)

Thanks for the tips on getting spyder ones to fit... Should be easier then ordering a new one.

I've been trying to get a new solenoid from them for about 6 weeks. Then they send me a battery instead of a solenoid. The battery is on it's way back to them now. Hopefully I'll eventually get another solenoid. I not going to go through that again.
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Old 06-28-2005, 03:59 PM #40
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i got a 03m cocker and i was wondering if somone could post how to dissasembel and reasemble it
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Old 07-27-2005, 10:14 PM #41
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hey guys, i've been lubing my o3 with shocker lube and gold cup for the o-rings. im wondering if thats a good combo, if not what lubes what make the gun perform better?
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Old 01-07-2006, 01:38 AM #42
meotai
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Ghetto Stockclass O3x mod.

I always wanted a sniperII, but the sexy O3x set me back $235. You can build a sniperII for under $100, but the project SniperII i wanted was ganna cost me $250+ So I thought why not make a ghetto pump to relieve my urges until I save up for the SniperII.

At first I was ganna do the pump conversion on my spyder shutter, but I didn't have the machine to do it, Plus I still gatta make a video, proving a LP spyder can get off 40+balls at 280fps on a 12gram.

I do have a PGP, which is a stockclass marker, but it's too loud, cops came by my house 3x. and it would cost me $600 for Punisher to thread it for a quieter barrel. But a PGP isn't a PGP unless it has that obnoxious signature loud pop to it.

I read a thread about a guy doing a pump conversion on his dm4, so hey it looks easy. I could do it on my o3x.

So starting out with a PGP


stole the plastic pump on it, and using the MicroRock as a pump guide, I slide it over.


I took frisket film and line in inside of the pump, so it'll give a snuggier fit, and prevent scratching the awesome MicroRock.


I took a venturi out of a spyder bolt, to use it as a tiny ghetto back block.


Took the feedneck off, and somehow ganna attach a 15round feeder.


I think all I have left is making a pump rod, Which I'll go to homedepot tomarrow and borrow their threading machine = )


So how does it look so far? I'm not actually sure if it classify as stockclass, cause the hammer is cocked automatically. But I do have to pump for everyshot to chamber the next ball.

Hopefully I'll finish this ghetto rig by tomarrow and try it out on the field Sunday. = )

*update*
15round stock feeder.

Last edited by meotai : 01-07-2006 at 03:26 AM.
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