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Old 08-14-2004, 11:31 PM #22
usagi_tetsu
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Here's just my 2 cents, since I've been thinking of my next Tribal:

milling - lighten up the body even more than it is now by dropping as much excess aluminum off of it: chop the top tube, mill the "twister" ridges off leaving two bare tubes, and take anything else out you don't want/need.

board - the stock boards aren't too bad, but if you're insistent on changing it, I'm gonna have to go with everyone else: Chaos with eyes.

trigger - or, as I interpret this, frame: obviously, one of cdarnell's new tubs, and then I'd go with Jackal Machine's 90* Impy Frame, which you can find here.

bolt - Edwin's teflon impregnated delrin has done me a yeoman's service, making my BBT more efficient and quieter to boot. Plus, the smaller moving mass lessens the kick of the marker as well.
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Old 08-15-2004, 01:17 AM #23
can'tthink of1
 
 
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THat jackal frame is just insane. although I want to keep the stock frame, it works fine for me so why change it lol

Actually I'm having 2nd thoughts about everything right now... Juinor year starting, needing to get my licence and a car... and a job to pay for insurance and gas... omg its going to be a crazy year. Hopefully I still have time to paintball in it all. So right now, I dunno, I'll have to see how I feel about this in time...
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Old 08-15-2004, 11:45 AM #24
usagi_tetsu
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I know what you mean, bud, this year has just been turned on its head for me, so all my plans for Tribal mods went right out the window in favor of paying bills and keeping food on the table. However, that still doesn't keep me from dreaming. =D
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Old 09-01-2004, 09:37 PM #25
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Alright, i know im a little late to this party, but thats my style.

1. Morlock board. To me there is nothing else. I am having a shootdown problem above 23cps, and i have done everything to improve flow and performance that i can think of. I may need to turn my dwell down even more, at it is set at 9ms right now. If i had a video camera i would post up what confirmed 28cps on a tribal is like. Im sorry but if thats not fast enough then i dont know what is.

The morlock conversion was probobally the easiest mod i did, other than putting in edwins bolt. The morlock was worth it when i still had a single trigger, now that i have the vert frame this marker just plane flies. It has impressed every person that has seen it. It impresses them even more when they shoot it.

2. Barrels. I have used just about everything, and i have to say, i love my CP kit. I only bought the one with 3 backs, because that is all i need. hell, i only really use 2 of them. CP's have always been the best bang for the buck in my opinion.
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Old 09-01-2004, 09:50 PM #26
warpedmephisto
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I'm putting a Morlock in one of shifty's Tribals right now. I should have a video of it after I get done with it. Should be awesome!
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Old 09-01-2004, 10:28 PM #27
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NO money = this project going nowhere. Also I don't have a drive really anymore to do it, but I am going to keep my twister, somehing will happen with it though.
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Old 09-02-2004, 08:47 AM #28
edwin247
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Joez, that is pretty good!!!
Do you have it setup with eyes?
Your BPS is very high when you figure in how the noid works. There is a certain on and off time that the noid requires, and I believe that is what is causing your shoot down. There might not be enough time for the noid to turn on then engage the valve then return before your next cycle begins.

According to the noid spec sheet:
0.01 s (or 10ms) to turn on
0.02 s (or 20ms) to turn off
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Old 09-02-2004, 08:59 AM #29
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So it's longer for a solenoid to close than to activate it's valves?

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Old 09-02-2004, 10:10 AM #30
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Edwin, i never installed the eyes. Since i have been having shootdown above 23cps, i set the ROF to 24, and my halo never skips a beat. I am running a victory board, and i do need to make sure i has fresh batteries before a day of play, but very rarely will it actually chop. With your LPRC i have succesfully gotten it to the point it will pinch paint. It wont always pinch, but if i do chop i only chop maybee once every case. I really havent been playing much lately, so that has been good enough for me. I dont need to go all out in recball and dump 5 pods a game.

If it is indeed the selenoid, i wonder if i could adapt a 'noid from something else, like a viking. Hmm, time to start collecting 'noids and seeing what i can do with them.
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Old 09-02-2004, 12:08 PM #31
edwin247
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Artshark, yes that is correct. I believe that is because the electric coil "help" open the noid, but only air pushes it back (assumption). I don't know the exact reason. I just follow the specs.

joez, haha, yeah dumping 28 bps in rec ball is probably a little overkill, and a bit costly on paint. I bet it would be neet see that stream of balls heading towards a cocky little know-it-all.
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Old 09-02-2004, 07:35 PM #32
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Actually right now I'm not sure of any parts I need besides a buffer kit, ss kit, Lprc, anything else I am still undecided on lol.
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Old 09-02-2004, 11:01 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by joez
If it is indeed the selenoid, i wonder if i could adapt a 'noid from something else, like a viking. Hmm, time to start collecting 'noids and seeing what i can do with them.
I doubt a viking would work. The noid in a viking is wide and flat, so it would never fit in atribal from. A timmy is a possibility though.
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Old 09-02-2004, 11:08 PM #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by MasterOfPupets
I doubt a viking would work. The noid in a viking is wide and flat, so it would never fit in atribal from. A timmy is a possibility though.
Never say never
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Old 09-02-2004, 11:14 PM #35
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TO give you an idea (since I owned a viking.)

Viking noid
Code:
------------------------------ | | | O | | O | | O | ------------------------------
Tribal Noid
Code:
------------------------------ |ooo | ------------------------------
It's a bad illustration, but you get the idea. The viking noid is litterally wider than the tribal body. You'd have to mount it on it's side and run tubes to the LP passages, in which case you'd need a taller tub. Or a wider one to mount it right. If I remember correctly also, the holes are larger from the Viking noid that the Tribals. Good luck with it though.

Last edited by MasterOfPupets : 09-02-2004 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 09-03-2004, 10:03 AM #36
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I was actually thinking of somehow mounting it in the frame, but i am now thinking that the length of tube may negate any advantage that the noid may have. It may cause me to need to run at a higher pressure and longer dwell, which would kindof kill the idea. Ill have to look into it more.
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