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Old 12-31-2001, 12:01 AM #1
Darth Bagel
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me new computer

ok, ive pretty much decided on the parts required for my new computer:

amd athlon xp 1800
asus a7v266e raid
512 mb pc2100 ddr ram
visiontek xtacy geforce3 ti500 (may use leatek, depending on where i buy it)
creative audigy x-gamer
usr/3com hardware modem, v.90 or v.92 depending on where it comes from, leaning towards v.92 store right now
sony/pioneer/toshiba 16x dvd
1.44 mb floppy drive (YES!!)
internal zip 250
2 wd/maxtor 40 gb 7200 rpm hdd in ata100 raid 0
acer 24x10x40 cdrw
linksys lne100tx network, if i can find one (cant find anywhere online, better check staples, lol)
and to contain this beast...
colorcases "noblesse" which i hope i can still get one of.
http://www.colorcases.com/cases/0507.html
with a 360 or 460 watt power supply

now, i have a question about the power supply. what does everyone think i should have? the prevailing mindset these days seems to be that i need an 18 gigawatt power supply, just in case i need to draw that much power. within reasonable limits (both financially and electrically) what do you people think i should get, because i honestly have no idea. i dont do power supplies too often. used to be i just got a 300 and sat on it, but it seems amd is reccommending bigger ones now.

other than that, does anyone see any glaring problems with this puter? anything i might run into?
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Old 12-31-2001, 04:44 PM #2
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I use the xp1800 and I use a 400w with no problems

check out the antec case sx1040b black case that comes with a 400w power supply
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Old 01-02-2002, 02:56 PM #3
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oookay, just an update, it turns out the people i hoped would buy my current computer are not going to. anyone wanna buy it? please? i want new toys.
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Old 01-08-2002, 11:17 PM #4
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WD and a maxtor? why? I just hate those hard drives.. Also I suggest you buy from www.newegg.com
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Old 01-09-2002, 03:05 AM #5
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why a zip AND a burner?
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Old 01-09-2002, 07:37 AM #6
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Yeah Zips are worthless because cd's are so much cheaper and you could use the cds on other computers also withalot less hassle.
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Old 01-09-2002, 11:31 AM #7
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why zip and a burner? because the burner is kind of a pain in the *** to rewrite onto, while the zip is not. also, my school's computers all have zip drives. they do not have cd burners. if i want to take something home from school and do not have a zip, i am fux0red
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Old 01-09-2002, 11:38 AM #8
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and if you hate them so much, what would you suggest, dead? it has long been my opinion that all hard drive makers suck, and those two just happened to be my choice.
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Old 01-09-2002, 01:16 PM #9
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You might want to wait on getting the 512 of ram. Ram prices have doubled in the last 3 weeks. I could get 512 of ram for $70 a month ago, and now the same ram is $140. I would suggest holding off on getting a large amount now, and just wait till prices go down.
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Old 01-09-2002, 01:41 PM #10
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I dont know where you buy your ram but I can buy a 512 stick in the store for about $30-40.
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Old 01-09-2002, 02:27 PM #11
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the problem with that approach is that i want a single stick of ram, and i dont happen to have any ddr just hanging around.

and pbdude, i dunno where you shop, but i highly doubt that a 512 stick for 40 bucks is gonna be very high quality.

sponge, its all subjective on when i buy the ram. it could be now, it could be next month. when i sell my computer, i will be buying and possibly building the new before i ship out the old one so i dont go into withdrawl.
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Old 01-09-2002, 03:10 PM #12
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Sounds good for the most part. Zip drives are cheap nowadays so if its more convenient go for it. The biggest suggestion I would make is to buy as many OEM parts as you can from somewhere like www.newegg.com (Excellent site, purchased many OEM parts from here) or www.theoverc*******store.com (great site for processors, I've purchased from them before and was pleased) . The only difference between OEM is packaging and software. For example the major difference between the Audigy X-Gamer and the Audigy OEM is that the X-Gamer comes in a pretty box and software you can get off creatives site (im pretty sure). You can get most of the software packaged with the retail cards right of the net (most of the time from the manufacturers site). You can save lots of money this way. Another recommendation I would make is to get a different burner than acer, this is due to a bad experience with an acer burner. I would recommend something like HP or Lite-On.

AMD XP-1800+ retail $240 - AMD XP-1800+ OEM $195
SB Audigy X-Gamer retail $84 - AB Audigy OEM $62
Acer 24x10x40 $140 - Lite-On 24x10x40 OEM $80
Sony/Toshiba/Pioneer 16x DVD-ROM retail ~ $80 - Sony/Toshiba/Pioneer 16x DVD-ROM OEM ~ $70
Maxtor 40Gb 7200 RPM HDD retail $130 - Maxtor 40Gb 7200 RPM HDD OEM $85

You can save alot of money by buying OEM parts. I cant find OEM Asus Motherboards right now, but I know I've seen them.
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Old 01-09-2002, 03:58 PM #13
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well, the reason i went with retail on a lot of those things is because i like the software package, and my internet connection sucks at best (26.4 anyone? and by the way, this will not improve with the new computer either, so nobody tell me to go out and spend the money on a new modem or i swear ill hunt you down and smite you.) anyways, like i was saying, my connection sucks, so i dont want to download all the software and crap because it will take several years. the acer burner i can get for 80 or 90 retail, and i havent had bad experience with acer yet, so i think ill stick with it until it decides to piss me off. the processor, well, i like having the cooling fan and the 3-year warranty from amd. that way, i know that the fan is sufficient for the processor, and if theres anything wrong with the processor i spent 250 dollars on, i can send it to amd. and they give me those cool little stickers too. the hard drives, i think i was gonna get them oem, but im not sure. well see. but thats definitely a better price that you listed. and the other pieces arent really worth shopping around to find oem, because id spend a fortune in shipping.
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Old 01-09-2002, 04:39 PM #14
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Well, you dont have to shop around too much to get all the stuff, newegg has the burner, audigy, hdds, and dvd-rom. But its your choice. But, if i were you and still want the software, i would get the OEM hdds, and audigy at least. And probobly the DVD-ROM. I bought an OEM SB live and still got software with it. A lot of times its just packaging.
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Old 01-09-2002, 05:08 PM #15
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Alright first off your connection is plenty fast to get the programs that are packaged with retail versions. Like Norton Ghost comes with lots of hardware, and nero comes with burners, ect.... most of these programs are no bigger then 10mb, also if you wanted and XP pro iso thats like 450mb. For the most part the programs they give are useless and easly aquired. My thoughts on that portion. I would also pay the 4 extra bucks to get a Segate or even IBM HD rather then a WD or Maxtor. I believe segate has the fastest seek time for a 7200 rpm 40gb (which I am getting) and its very quite, unlike WD who also have many problems being found by hard drives without putting new firmware on. As for motherboard I would agree asus is a great company and has made many great boards. The preformance difference between several of the via266a chipset boards is next to nothing. Stability is also great for asus boards. Then why not get it? well I looked into it LOTS and I found SOYO Dragon Plus board to come with much more (like a smart card reader thats like a drive, 4usb, software, little faster, great overclocker) and well it is just an all around better board according to a few review sites. I also think you can save yourself 100+ dollars on getting a TI 200 insted of the 500. The FPS is different by like 5 and 200 can be overclocked to 500 only difference is its 100+ bucks cheaper. Also with the Soyo board it has decent onboard 6-channel i think sound so you can save money if your not Extremely conserned about sound even though audigy kicks ***. I'll tell you what I just purchased with help from many review sites, forums, and friends.

ENLIGHT EN-7237AZ MEDIUM TOWER 340watts - $60

Plextor 12x10x32A -already have

Sony 52x CD-Rom- $28

Artic Silver Thermal Paste (need!) -$6

Thermal Integration's Dr. Thermal TI-V77L -$22 (I really looked into this one)

Floppy- $9

Seagate Barracuda IV ST340016A 40gb 7200rpm -$85

KINGSTON KVR266X64C25/512 512MB DDR PC2100 -$138

SOYO K7V DRAGON+ Plus VIA KT266A ATX MOTHERBOARD -$146

LINKSKEY LKF-5100 10/100 -$10

AMD ATHLON XP 1800+/266 -$179

Gainward/Cardexpet GeForce 3 Ti200 -$165

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Didn't get but you wanted it....

Iomega Internal EIDE 250MB Zip Drive -$79

Same HD- $85

LITE-ON LTR-24102B-02 24x10x40 -$85 (good burner)

TOSHIBA INTERNAL DVD ROM, 16X DVD, 48X CD ROM -$65

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I am pretty sure thats all. Mine costed me 895 with shipping which was like 42 bucks. Newegg has great review and even better prices. I suggest you go there, this is the second computer I bought from them. Wew, I must be really bored, but just to give you an idea how much I looked into what goes in mine. I spent over 2 hours looking for a good heatsink for the CPU.
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Old 01-09-2002, 08:18 PM #16
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895 you say? i need to shop around more, then.

i do not overclock anything. i like my components nice and reliable. i know someones gonna come on here and say theyve got their p2 300 mhz overclocked to 1.4 ghz, and its stable, but i dont want to take the risk of burning out a 300 dollar piece of hardware. and im pretty sure they a7v266e comes with 5 usb. my a7v133a did.

and since when do i need thermal paste?
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Old 01-09-2002, 11:30 PM #17
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its 6 bucks and helps a crapload. Only about 1% of your HSF is actually touching the chip, with the paste it fills in the gaps (on a microscopic level) If you don't want to burn it out and have your system more stable then use it. I don't overclock either, I went with soyo because over the extras it has and its faster. Just as stable and the same bios, for a few bucks cheaper. It seemed like more of a value, but if you think about it they are both great boards and you won't tell a difference in preformance or stability. I don't wanna try to make you change your mind to what I think cause thats not right, I just looked into it and made my choice. I hope I helped you buy a new computer.

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Old 01-10-2002, 06:09 AM #18
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Dead, thats why your supposed to lap your heatsink. To make it flat so more of the heatsink comes in contact with the core. And from what I can tell you dont overclock or you would've boughten a better hs/f. But for the most part Darth, overclocking is safe, you really never fry your components from overclocking, the only processors ive heard dying were ones that people accidentally crushed the core putting a hs/f on. Thats why they have shims, you cant crush the core then. The worst Ive seen happen component wise is the harddrive corrupts with too high FSB, and thats usually only with old drives. See, once you push the components beyond their limits they just simply wont work until you adjust your settings (most commonly lower your FSB). Then they will begin to function just fine again. With the processor, if you try to boot at 1.7Ghz with a 1.2Ghz chip just after you pop it in, its not gonna boot, you have to clear the CMOS and then you have to tweak and slowly increase speed and always monitor your temps.
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Old 01-10-2002, 04:37 PM #19
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Chad your right I don't overclock much, but I am planning on doing a little bit. Read into it and you will find out that thermal pads or lapping kits do not work as well as silver based pastes. By using the pastes insted of thermal pads you can decrease the CPU temp by 2-4 degrees centigrade. My heatsink is nice, but the fan is not the "best" because compared to the Thermalright SK-6 Heatsink with Delta 30CFM fan its only a 2 degree centigrade difference. The noise level is this is huge though. Mine is quiet the other is very load.
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Old 01-10-2002, 07:05 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dead_Head
Chad your right I don't overclock much, but I am planning on doing a little bit. Read into it and you will find out that thermal pads or lapping kits do not work as well as silver based pastes. By using the pastes insted of thermal pads you can decrease the CPU temp by 2-4 degrees centigrade. My heatsink is nice, but the fan is not the "best" because compared to the Thermalright SK-6 Heatsink with Delta 30CFM fan its only a 2 degree centigrade difference. The noise level is this is huge though. Mine is quiet the other is very load.
The thermal pads are the first thing you should scrape of the heatskink. They're completly useless, if they insist on including them they should put them on the heatsink but rather in the box. To properly do a heatsink for best results you first scrape off the thermal pad, then you get various grit sandpapers (wet/dry) place the sheet on a piece of glass, wet it and start at about 400 grit and work your way up until you get a mirror finish on the bottom of the heatsink, then apply a small amount of thermal paste to the heatsink (Arctic Silver II, or OCZ quicksilver for best results) and a small amount to the core, you should still be able to see the writing on the core through the paste. Take a razor blade and scrape of most of the thermal paste from the bottom of the heatsink, you only need enough to fill in any leftover invisible crevaces. Then place the heatsink onto the processor and lock it down. A shim can be used to make sure you dont chip the core, most often rendering the processor useless, unless you get lucky and chip an unused part of the core.

Oh yeah, the sanding of the heatsink to a mirror finish is lapping. You want to use as little thermal paste as possible. If you use more than is needed it does more harm than good, temps are higher, etc. I know a real lot about overclocking, a real good source of information is www.athlonoc.com .

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Old 01-10-2002, 07:10 PM #21
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Oh yeah, an excellent lapping article can be found here:
http://www.hardwareoc.com/lapping1.php
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