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Old 07-06-2014, 02:40 PM #1
Mission1395
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AKP leak

Alright i recently just purchased the akp used off a guy on this website. I just got the gun and when i screwed in air tank and turned on the asa, the gun starts to leak, but when i cock it the leak stops. But when that leak stops it starts to leak a little bit at the macroline elbow in the asa, but the gun still dry fires. My question is, is it normal for the akp to leak before you cock it? or is there a busted oring inside the regulator somewhere? Also i know i need maybe some teflon tape on the macroline elbow to maybe stop the leaking there. I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem. Thanks
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Old 07-06-2014, 04:30 PM #2
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It is my understanding that can happen. The striker is keeping the valve open when it is in the forward position, but when you cock it, it is no longer keeping it open.

The fitting leaking is something entirely different. Sometimes removing the macroline and putting it back in place will fix it or you may need a new fitting. That shouldn't be a huge deal, though. Fittings usually run for about $5. Some teflon tape may do the trick as well.
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Old 07-06-2014, 04:46 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttimberlak443 View Post
It is my understanding that can happen. The striker is keeping the valve open when it is in the forward position, but when you cock it, it is no longer keeping it open.

The fitting leaking is something entirely different. Sometimes removing the macroline and putting it back in place will fix it or you may need a new fitting. That shouldn't be a huge deal, though. Fittings usually run for about $5. Some teflon tape may do the trick as well.
So everytime, before i screw in my air, i should cock the gun?
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:32 PM #4
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Where does it leak, have you done any trouble shooting as of yet to figure out where the first leak is coming from? As for the macro fitting idk if you need to use tape. I would just check to see if it's clean and tightly screwed into the asa and reg. You can also double check the actual macro line to see if each end is smooth and evenly cut with no debris inside of it. I would also close the regulator and then open it up until you get one full shot cycle and see if the leak happens at this point. It may very well be that the reg is too wide open and the air is just over pressurizing the marker. Hopefully this will help stop the leaks and prevent the use of tape on your marker as a fix. Good luck bro.

iPS
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:46 PM #5
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Originally Posted by iPaintSlinger View Post
Where does it leak, have you done any trouble shooting as of yet to figure out where the first leak is coming from? As for the macro fitting idk if you need to use tape. I would just check to see if it's clean and tightly screwed into the asa and reg. You can also double check the actual macro line to see if each end is smooth and evenly cut with no debris inside of it. I would also close the regulator and then open it up until you get one full shot cycle and see if the leak happens at this point. It may very well be that the reg is too wide open and the air is just over pressurizing the marker. Hopefully this will help stop the leaks and prevent the use of tape on your marker as a fix. Good luck bro.

iPS
You know i have feeling the reg is too open, when i put it back together i didnt really tighten the screw on the bottom of the reg, maybe thats the problem and also i just used tape to seal the leak
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:01 PM #6
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Should i tighten the screw on the bottom of the reg all the way? or how should i do it? Because i tested my gun just now and i guess the pressure from the reg was too much, the macroline elbow leading to the reg just broke haha need to get a new one. But whats the recommended turns from flush for an azodin reg?
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:22 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission1395 View Post
Should i tighten the screw on the bottom of the reg all the way? or how should i do it? Because i tested my gun just now and i guess the pressure from the reg was too much, the macroline elbow leading to the reg just broke haha need to get a new one. But whats the recommended turns from flush for an azodin reg?
I don't remember the factory settings for the reg, but as quarter turn is around 20 psi.
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:50 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttimberlak443 View Post
I don't remember the factory settings for the reg, but as quarter turn is around 20 psi.
hmm, gotchya ill have to ask an azodin tech then, but i might need to cut my spring a bit too, i guess the spring kit i got for it is too long, my gun seems to be shooting real hot
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Old 07-06-2014, 09:58 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission1395 View Post
hmm, gotchya ill have to ask an azodin tech then, but i might need to cut my spring a bit too, i guess the spring kit i got for it is too long, my gun seems to be shooting real hot
That would probably be why your valve was staying open too. Azodin is pretty quick with answering emails and you are generally off of the phone with them after no longer than 10 minutes or so. Some of the best customer service that I've seen for any business.
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:04 PM #10
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Originally Posted by ttimberlak443 View Post
That would probably be why your valve was staying open too. Azodin is pretty quick with answering emails and you are generally off of the phone with them after no longer than 10 minutes or so. Some of the best customer service that I've seen for any business.
You think the valve is staying open because the spring is too long? Or that the pressure of the reg was too high? And i might give them a call when i can, i just pm'd the azodin tech on pbnation hopefully get a response tomorrow
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:25 AM #11
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I would close the reg then back it out until it fires and completes a full cycle. From that point I would chrono it while adjusting the regs output pressure. When you blow out an electro's solenoid it's because you over pressurize the marker, bur with a mech there isn't a noid to blow so the air just leaks out from the reg (usually the bottom half of the reg).

Also try to make the main spring as soft as possible by backing the screw out to almost flush with the backcap. I would try this before cutting anything down. As always good luck.

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Old 07-07-2014, 10:57 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iPaintSlinger View Post
I would close the reg then back it out until it fires and completes a full cycle. From that point I would chrono it while adjusting the regs output pressure. When you blow out an electro's solenoid it's because you over pressurize the marker, bur with a mech there isn't a noid to blow so the air just leaks out from the reg (usually the bottom half of the reg).

Also try to make the main spring as soft as possible by backing the screw out to almost flush with the backcap. I would try this before cutting anything down. As always good luck.

iPS
Yea but my gun leaking inside the gun like where the barrel is supposed to be, its probably just cause of it being too open. but when i get the new macroline elbow ill try to open it little by little after i screw in my air tank. But with the back cap ill definitely try that first before chronoing
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:52 PM #13
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Ok then bro, let us know how it turns out. Hopefully you are up and running without the need for that horrible looking tape fix. Makes the brand look bad. People already look down on Azodin from a lack of knowledge about the brand and the fact that they use the STBB platform. The last thing we would want is tape on a leaking part.

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Old 07-07-2014, 02:10 PM #14
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Hello Mission1395,

What iPS is saying is correct. The valve and the striker spring may not be balanced correctly where the striker will hold the valve open.

The stock settings on the regulator are as follows:

2.5 - 3 turns (250psi to 300psi)

How to Reset Your Regulator
1. Degas the marker and clear the air from the regulator
2. Turn the Regulator Adjustment Screw in until it stops (don’t force it past this point)
3. Turn the Regulator out a set number of turns indicated above to get the factory setting
Each regulator is slightly different due to difference in tank output pressure and component variance. All pressure outputs and settings are estimates based a large sample size. The best way to get the correct pressure is to use a pressure tester.

Be sure to apply teflon tape or locktite to the new fitting your purchase. Use blue locktite over the red one, so you can remove the fitting in the future.

Also, what version is your KP? Is it the first generation or a second generation. The first gen KPs have a black, aluminum pump rod and do not have a regulator on them. If the marker has a silver SS rod and a regulator, then it is a KP 2011+.

Also, thank you ttimberlak443 for being the first responder for this question.

Sincerely,
Ed
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Last edited by AzodinTech : 07-07-2014 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:03 PM #15
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It is the 2011 with the actual regulator, and when you say blue tape over the red one, what do you mean exactly?
But thanks for helping me out, i really appreciate it, once i get the the new macroline elbows and macrolines ill give you an update on the gun
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:52 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission1395 View Post
It is the 2011 with the actual regulator, and when you say blue tape over the red one, what do you mean exactly?
But thanks for helping me out, i really appreciate it, once i get the the new macroline elbows and macrolines ill give you an update on the gun
You can use Locktite to seal the threading on the fittings. Blue Locktite is easier to break the bond if you decide to unscrew the fittings while red Locktite is very difficult to undo.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:30 PM #17
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Originally Posted by ttimberlak443 View Post
You can use Locktite to seal the threading on the fittings. Blue Locktite is easier to break the bond if you decide to unscrew the fittings while red Locktite is very difficult to undo.
Ohhhhh i just used teflon tape on my threads on the macroline elbows, that seemed to the trick just fine. Unless you guys think locktite is better in the long run?
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Old 07-08-2014, 01:42 AM #18
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IMO, it is a toss up between Teflon tape and Loctite. The problem I found with Loctite is that both metal surfaces need to be clean and free of any foreign material/debris/oils/etc. Usually, this is easier said than done. The Loctite also needs a zero oxygen environment in order to cure and bond. If there is a lot of play between the male and female threads, this is an issue since the Loctite isn't really designed to "fill" in larger gaps between threads. Doesn't seem like much when talking about threads but it does make a difference - I've seen Loctite fail in these cases.

Personally, I tend to stick with the Teflon tape. If done correctly, it works just as good, if not better, and it can be made to look just as clean of a finish as using Loctite (no white tape showing). Just be sure to put the tape on correctly (yes, there is a correct direction and method) and don't have any tape below the 1st thread of whatever you are using the tape on. This will ensure that you don't get tape into the air stream and possibly cause blockage somewhere else.
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:59 PM #19
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Both types of sealer are good and will do the job if applied correctly.

Personally I find using teflon easier, while my buddy finds loctite to be easier for him. Try the one your most comfortable with first.
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:52 AM #20
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I think teflons the way to go
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:10 PM #21
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Alright got the new macroline elbows, but now my regulator is leaking at the bottom. right where the bonnet screw goes. Now what do i do? Do you think there is something wrong with the o-rings?

Edit: Ok so it leaks from the inside the gun when i first air it up. Then i cock it, then it starts to leak a little by the bottom of the regulator. When i fire it leaks from the inside the gun again. I dont get it
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