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Old 05-21-2014, 08:18 AM #1
bcrguy
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just picked up a quest. it needs work…

hey FEP forum, iv thought the quest was cool for awhile and finally picked one up but there are a few issues with it. i think i have a solution on how to get it to work but i need a little more info.

problem: solenoid connector is gone. but i do have the 2 leads coming from the noid which is good.

solution 1: i go to a store, buy a couple quick connects, solder them on. hope it works. this is probably what i will attempt first but I'm wondering what lead goes to which side of the noid (if you post a pic of your board connected to the noid i will know what goes where).

solution 2: would involve replacing the noid with one that still has the connector attached.

solution 3: attempt to find/use a different board & noid combo altogether. this would be a last and worst case scenario

the manual for the gun i have says the board is a was equalizer, but iirc there were a couple different stock boards? so the connector for the noid is also directly attached to the battery harness (don't know if this tells you anything or not). ill post a pic later today showing the inside so i can get some more info.

thanks.
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Old 05-21-2014, 09:40 AM #2
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If the harness doesn't have the connector attached, you can get them at digikey or any other electronic component store:

solenoid plug (on battery harness)
Molex - 51021-0200

solenoid plug (solenoid end)
Molex - 51074-0200

Either way, re-soldering is your best bet.




Check this thread for the board model (and a few other tidbits)
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2418234

Last edited by tacxplosion : 05-21-2014 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:30 PM #3
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ok I'm going to try and find one of those molex connectors locally, and it looks like i have the inovic board (not sure which chip though). not sure which flash i have though, anyone have the manuals for the 2.4 or 2.5 flash downloaded? or even just tell me what they are.
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Old 05-25-2014, 07:24 PM #4
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board looks like its an inoviq with a 2.5 flash. anyone know where i can find a manual? tried google but couldn't find anything.
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:32 PM #5
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PM me your email, I have the 2.5 manual.

You prolly know but the 2.5 chip is only on the black Inoviq boards and the 1.9 is only on the green ones.
Just fyi.
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:15 PM #6
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ok so i got the connector and got it on and thats fine. now the problem I'm having is over pressurizing on the gauge (almost maxing the gauge out). i went through the manual and tried all the suggestions there and nothing. any other ideas?
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:41 PM #7
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Sounds like the LPR valve core is busted, does it still read pressure with the adjustment all the way out? In case you need one, I got my spares from here:
http://www.jbtoolsales.com/fjc-2675-volvo-valve-core/

Last edited by tacxplosion : 06-05-2014 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 06-05-2014, 10:07 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacxplosion View Post
Sounds like the LPR valve core is busted, does it still read pressure with the adjustment all the way out? In case you need one, I got my spares from here:
http://www.jbtoolsales.com/fjc-2675-volvo-valve-core/
yes it reads pressure with the adjustment screw almost out flush with the lpr body.
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:04 AM #9
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If you get a leak from the valve core (verify with soapy water) after removing the LPR body, then yeah, it's a busted valve core. Turning the adjustment screw flush with the cap doesn't mean that it's not pressing on the spring any more, mine sits 4 threads out of the cap when not applying force to the spring.

Even then, mine will still press on the spring shim with the LPR body's internal shoulder, so much so that it's enough to reliably cycle my quest (the only reason I keep the adjustment screw on, is to prevent paint going into the spring section in case I take a shot to the LPR).

Last edited by tacxplosion : 06-06-2014 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 06-06-2014, 08:02 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacxplosion View Post
If you get a leak from the valve core (verify with soapy water) after removing the LPR body, then yeah, it's a busted valve core. Turning the adjustment screw flush with the cap doesn't mean that it's not pressing on the spring any more, mine sits 4 threads out of the cap when not applying force to the spring.

Even then, mine will still press on the spring shim with the LPR body's internal shoulder, so much so that it's enough to reliably cycle my quest (the only reason I keep the adjustment screw on, is to prevent paint going into the spring section in case I take a shot to the LPR).
ok il have to order one of those volvo replacement ones. the one you linked previously is the LPR size one correct? since I'm going to order one should i replace the HPR one as well? and is there a volvo one i could retrofit as well?
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:49 AM #11
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Quote:
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ok il have to order one of those volvo replacement ones. the one you linked previously is the LPR size one correct?
Yes, my quest came with a bent LPR core pin originally, a local A/C repair guy wanted $15 for a single one! so I told him to go dance on a stick and fall onto it and had the 5 pack shipped down here (for $20 total including shipping and duties). The local Volvo dealership would've wanted much more for it (usually twice as much as the A/C guy).

Quote:
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since I'm going to order one should i replace the HPR one as well?
might as well

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Originally Posted by bcrguy View Post
and is there a volvo one i could retrofit as well?
Not necessarily volvo, but this might fit; since 5/16" comes to about 8mm flat and threads for valve cores are usually 5/16"-24:

http://www.jbtoolsales.com/fjc-2676-...ls-valve-core/

No guarantees, though it looks fairly close to the one advertised on the critical website (from which you can also get each single one for a slightly higher price than a 5-pack of each at JB tools)

Criticalpaintball ($12 each single valve core)


JB tools ($8-$9 each 5-pack of either)

Last edited by tacxplosion : 06-07-2014 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:48 AM #12
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Try removing the lpr set screw completely and see if the Lp pressure is too high still.
I've seen cases were the set screw is too long and even at flush it is depressing the valve stem too much

Last edited by Demo2222 : 06-06-2014 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 06-07-2014, 08:48 PM #13
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ok so i took the set lpr screw out completely and the pressure did not max out. i got it to cycle consistently with the lpr at 1 or 2 threads in and the hpr t 3-4 threads in (gauge reads between 125 and 150 psi IIRC). i wont be able to get it over a chrono until early next month but it seems to be working well.
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Old 06-07-2014, 11:05 PM #14
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If the pressure reading moves on the gauge when you adjust the HPR, without touching the LPR, then the LPR is being bypassed and you need a new valve core.
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Old 06-08-2014, 07:45 PM #15
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Quote:
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If the pressure reading moves on the gauge when you adjust the HPR, without touching the LPR, then the LPR is being bypassed and you need a new valve core.
i don't think it was but ill double check tomorrow.
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Old 06-08-2014, 11:07 PM #16
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125- 150 is too high really. Maybe the Guage is off.
Can you not reduce the pressure lower than that and cycle reliably or is that as low as it goes period?
If you need to you can even try backing the whole cap out. (I've actually had to do this before)

Last edited by Demo2222 : 06-08-2014 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 06-09-2014, 07:25 AM #17
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Quote:
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125- 150 is too high really. Maybe the Guage is off.
Can you not reduce the pressure lower than that and cycle reliably or is that as low as it goes period?
If you need to you can even try backing the whole cap out. (I've actually had to do this before)
i could be wrong. I'm going to double check this afternoon and il post up what i found.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:23 AM #18
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ok the gauge stays at about 100 psi even when the HPR is adjusted. related question that i think i already know, is the gauge measures the LPR output correct?
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:14 PM #19
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yes that is correct it reads your low pressure output. that air is then routed to the solenoid and used to cycle the bolt.
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Old 06-09-2014, 03:24 PM #20
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Yes, so your valve core IS sealing. Do you have an HPR tester (ASA with a gauge on it)? If so, set your HPR to 200 and the LPR to 90-100, dwell to 10ms. Does the gauge creep up if you let the marker sit for 10 minutes?

If it does, the rear air chamber o'ring (rear 3. on the sticky diagram) might be bad and leaking HP air into the front LP side of the bolt, slowing the cycle down, preventing the bolt from cycling properly at stock dwell (also messing with efficiency).

If it doesn't cycle properly with those settings and it's not creeping, you have a leak or obstruction somewhere in your LP side, anywhere between the LPR and the rear LP output, it could be a front set screw turned too far in, choking the LP system, it could also be a leak from the manifold or a rear body setscrew turned too far in, partly blocking the LP output to the bolt.

If those are checked and found to be OK, take your bolt and pin out and move the bolt over the pin by hand, does it snag, or is there a bump somewhere in the range of movement of the bolt? It should move freely with minimal effort. If not, your sail and/or air chamber o'rings might be at fault.

My quest (not even broken in) will fully cycle reliably at a dwell of 8ms, with the LPR around 70 PSI when freshly lubed with oiled down Macdev militia V1 (4 parts militia, 1 part gold cup).

If all has been checked but it still has trouble cycling, it might be that your 'noid's coil is dying and you need a new coil.

That's really all I can think of right now that could cause cycling issues other than the HPR starving the marker.
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Old 06-09-2014, 06:27 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacxplosion View Post
Yes, so your valve core IS sealing. Do you have an HPR tester (ASA with a gauge on it)? If so, set your HPR to 200 and the LPR to 90-100, dwell to 10ms. Does the gauge creep up if you let the marker sit for 10 minutes?

If it does, the rear air chamber o'ring (rear 3. on the sticky diagram) might be bad and leaking HP air into the front LP side of the bolt, slowing the cycle down, preventing the bolt from cycling properly at stock dwell (also messing with efficiency).

If it doesn't cycle properly with those settings and it's not creeping, you have a leak or obstruction somewhere in your LP side, anywhere between the LPR and the rear LP output, it could be a front set screw turned too far in, choking the LP system, it could also be a leak from the manifold or a rear body setscrew turned too far in, partly blocking the LP output to the bolt.

If those are checked and found to be OK, take your bolt and pin out and move the bolt over the pin by hand, does it snag, or is there a bump somewhere in the range of movement of the bolt? It should move freely with minimal effort. If not, your sail and/or air chamber o'rings might be at fault.

My quest (not even broken in) will fully cycle reliably at a dwell of 8ms, with the LPR around 70 PSI when freshly lubed with oiled down Macdev militia V1 (4 parts militia, 1 part gold cup).

If all has been checked but it still has trouble cycling, it might be that your 'noid's coil is dying and you need a new coil.

That's really all I can think of right now that could cause cycling issues other than the HPR starving the marker.
I'm not having cycling issues anymore, it was just me screwing the lpr in too far at first. everything else seems fine now.
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