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Old 05-01-2014, 12:28 PM #1
nj6964
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
System X NME Good buy or not?

I have someone offering me an NME for dirt cheap, less than $100. I don't know much about them except that everyone seems to say they were greater performing markers. Is it going to be a pain to find any parts or maintain it? Any insight as to whether buying one is a smart move. Currently I'm shooting an ion (I know I know...) and want to know how that will compare in the long run (cost for parts etc). Thanks.
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Old 05-01-2014, 03:39 PM #2
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It's a gen 2.5 timmy clone, and a good one at that. All the parts you need are already in the marker, comes stock with a WAS board and uses the same 'noid as most Bob Long markers; what's not to like?! I'd pick it up in a heartbeat at that price, even with a dead board or 'noid. You can't go wrong.
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Old 05-02-2014, 02:35 PM #3
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At that price, it's a good buy. It will perform similar to your ION, but it might be a little more consistent and likely better in cold weather. Parts are not that hard to find as long it has the eye covers. Everything else can be swapped out with 2k2-2k5 intimidator parts (which are not to hard to find).
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:58 PM #4
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Thanks for the advice. I just want to make sure it's a reliable gun. For whatever reason (maybe because I've taken my ion apart a lot), I have confidence that any issue that comes up with the ion I can fix. I have an odd gut feeling that the NME will be like buying an old porsche that needs pricey specialized repairs. Am I just being nuts (and showing that I've never owned a high-end marker lol)?
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:43 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nj6964 View Post
Thanks for the advice. I just want to make sure it's a reliable gun. I have an odd gut feeling that the NME will be like buying an old porsche that needs pricey specialized repairs. Am I just being nuts (and showing that I've never owned a high-end marker lol)?
The only somewhat specialty part is the cup seal, which doesn't go bad that often and you can get from pbkingdom or any other 2k2 timmy supply. Other than that, you only need o'rings and old finger style spyder detents.

If the 'noid goes bad, you can get humphrey coils from ebay $30 a pop and if the board goes bad, you can get a universal T-board for $55+ shipping (you'd need to wire it up though). The 'noid is much more likely to give out than the board and even then the chance of that happening is slim.
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:22 PM #6
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nope
lots of proprietary stuff and it's bulky and worse off than the true models.

that's mainly personal ****, though.
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Old 05-10-2014, 06:02 PM #7
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Originally Posted by YeloSno View Post
nope
lots of proprietary stuff
Which would only need replacing if he somehow managed to break the bolt, ram or front block, it's not like it's going to happen with regular use. Most consumables are standard size o'rings, spyder finger detents and the somewhat proprietary gen1/2 timmy cup seal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YeloSno View Post
and it's bulky and worse off than the true models.

that's mainly personal ****, though.
It is slightly bulkier and heavier than the 2k5 timmies, I'll give you that and the LPR doesn't flow as well as timmy LPR's, but it still flows plenty fast for today's ROF caps.

Getting a NME LE is almost as good as getting an empire timmy with a WAS 2.9 board except for the weight (I like the HPR better, even if it's a bit chunkier; it's already got the spring stack vent that the torpedo lacks without modding).

It's not a bad marker by any stretch and the $100 price tag only makes it better IMO, a 2k5'd 2k2 timmy usually goes for $175-$200 and a true gen2.5. usually goes for $250-$300.

Last edited by tacxplosion : 05-14-2014 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:08 PM #8
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I noticed that it has this external microline. I feel like that's just asking to get stuck on something or shot off...any truth to that concern?

Thanks.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:14 PM #9
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High end markers came stock with macroline for almost 10 years, I think the industry would've ditched it sooner if it were prone to getting shot off. If it is indeed microline and not macroline, then it might be too thin and restrict the flow of air to the HPR and starve the marker (more likely on the LP side), I'd swap it out for macroline in a heartbeat; microline's ok for pumps, not for electro's.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:05 PM #10
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It's the external microline at the front block. Is this typical for markers of that time?
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:45 PM #11
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It's not typical for the era (the 2002-2007 ROF wars) in that it's external, SystemX was one of the last companies producing markers with external LP hoses; a remnant from their 'cocker days, the LPR is the same one that came on their autocockers (though adapted to the NME front block). Most similar markers of the era ran the hose internally.

That being said, I've taken shots to the pneumatics on 2 of my autocockers (one is a SystemX vengeance) and never had a hose pop off.

Just so we clear up on the terminology, microline is HP hose, able to stand CO2 pressures (800-1000 PSI), usually run from the bottom-line to the HPR or expansion/valve chamber (usually in older pump markers); the hose the NME uses is LP hose rated to 120 PSI.

If you dislike the LP hose being external, the body can be modified to accept timmy front blocks.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:36 PM #12
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There is no microline on the NME. If that external LPR hose is a concern to you (it shouldn't be. never had a problem on my three NMEs), you can replace the front block with a 2k2 - 2k5 Intimidator front block, and put any Intimidator LPR on it.

As far as specialty parts on the NME, almost ALL of them can be swapped for Intimidator parts that are easy to find. Here are things that can be swapped for Timmy parts:

Internals (ram tube, ram, poppet, cup seal, spring, hoses, etc.)
Eyes
Detents
Trigger frame (you have to use an Intimidator trigger and board as well)
Front block and LPR (have to be done together, otherwise You can swap just the LPR for a Palmer Odessy LPR).
Feedneck

Additionally, there are some options for the board. With out to much effort, I've been able to fit a PMR board. I've also gone through a little more effort, and been able to put in a Virtue OLED board for an Etek (the hard part was dremmeling a window in the grip for the OLED, not to bad though). There is of course the T board mentioned by tacxplosion.

The upgrade that is the most bang for your buck IMHO? A modern board. The stock WAS board was advanced in its day, but putting in a more recent board, even if it's just a stock 07 PMR board, you will notice a big difference!
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Last edited by tjs0349 : 05-14-2014 at 12:40 PM.
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Old 05-15-2014, 03:31 PM #13
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Ok that's good to hear. I'm going to check out the marker this weekend and make sure everything works well. Anything special to look for?

Also what added performance bonus would a new board give me. I usually only play semi or psp ramp. Will it make the gun function more efficiently or just give me more mode options? Thanks.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:58 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nj6964 View Post
Also what added performance bonus would a new board give me. I usually only play semi or psp ramp. Will it make the gun function more efficiently or just give me more mode options? Thanks.
Ease of setup; if the board has 2.9 code, it'll be able to shoot PSP legal ramping and capped/uncapped semi, but you'll have to program with the LED, whereas most modern boards have an LCD or OLED screen. Other than that, WAS made a great board (unless you're using an FEP quest), I do believe all NME boards are 2.9 code, but I'm not sure.

Here's a link to the manual.
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2420181
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:48 AM #15
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How does the NME take to a HP tank vs a LP tank? Right now I have a HP tank outputting standard 850 psi. Will this work well on the NME?
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:49 AM #16
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Also thanks for the board explanation, that'll be something to consider.
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:33 AM #17
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They're meant for HPA, as were most markers of the time.

My checklist when inspecting a timmy style poppet marker when considering purchase:
  • Check for a free moving bolt and ram, resistance should be minimal and only due to lube sticktion.
  • Inspect ram bumper for signs of extreme wear.
  • Check the LPR pressure, make sure it's not over 90 PSI.
  • Make sure the eyes (and all electronics) work.
  • Ask the current owner how long it's been since the last rebuild, if it's still using the original seals, they'll be almost 10 years old.
  • Ask to see the marker cycle (or better yet, shoot up to sensible FPS if possible).
  • Ask if they have any spares for the marker.

Things you'll want to stock up on:
  • Detents
  • 1 spare Cup seal
  • O'rings

In case you were wondering what the NME looks like with a timmy front block:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rzhukov View Post
sure will, you will just have to drill/dremel your grip frame a little bit to make sure you have space for the barb on the front block

here is mine with evil front block, LPR and HPR

You can get the front block/ LPR/ bolt kit for 19.99 here http://www.discountpaintball.com/Clo...des_c_226.html

Probably not the best LPR to put on there, but you get the idea.
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Old 05-16-2014, 03:43 PM #18
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Those evil front blocks and LPRs are notoriously horrible (Go ask in the Timmy forum). Shotty tolerances, bad design. Often they don't fit right (wobble), and leak. There is a reason many websites have them, and are selling them CHEAP!

As far as HP vs. LP, all of my tanks are Ninja Tanks, or have Ninja Regs, and all have been set to LP. I've never had any issues with LP. Intimidators are built for LP, and most clones are as well. The NME manuals states on page 7 that "There are low pressure systems and high pressure systems. You must adjust your velocity accordingly."

Manual is here in case you need it.

As far as boards go, in addition to what was mentioned tacxplosion, a newer board will have a better/faster processor, and will be able to read for trigger pulls more often. Additionally, with the better electronics, comes better software algorithms, for reading the eyes, detecting a ball in the breach, and making adjustments based on your boards settings.

Even if you play in only semi auto, you will find the marker to be snappier/peppier/more responsive just by swapping the stock board out for a more modern board.
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:05 PM #19
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Originally Posted by tjs0349 View Post
Those evil front blocks and LPRs are notoriously horrible (Go ask in the Timmy forum). Shotty tolerances, bad design. Often they don't fit right (wobble), and leak. There is a reason many websites have them, and are selling them CHEAP!
Definitely not the best parts to use, but I couldn't find any other pictures with a 2k5+ front block; once again, it's just so he can get a general idea of how it looks.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:47 AM #20
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Thanks for all the help. I went yesterday and bought the gun along with a bunch of other accessories including an edge barrel kit. I haven't done a thorough comparison yet but how does the stock barrel normally compare to other barrel kits?

Also the NME will accept timmy feednecks correct? My reloader B doesn't fit well into this feedneck. Any suggestions?
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:33 AM #21
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Stock barrel was made by CP, I believe; they even share back and front threads.

I'm not really sure what threads the feednecks were, but from the previous picture and looking around, it seems they're impulse (ion) threaded.
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