It seems like steadily over the past year or so, there has been an increase in Shego threads and questions. So I'm going to try and compile everything in one spot here so maybe those questions will be answered.
In all seriousness, the process is really simple. So we will start with the basics. This is kinda just a work in progress right now to avoid paying attention in class. ill add more/edit when i get a minute.
Why build a shego?
It serves no real purpose. There are no performance gains at all. By far the biggest downfall to the shocker is the stock frame (especially the sft frame). This allows you to swap the shocker frames to a more comfortable ego/etek frame. It usually comes with a LCD board and different trigger options. It's a little different, and will get funny looks at the field. If you are looking for something different, this is a good mod for you.
So the first question you need to ask is What frame and Body are you using?
The body doesn't really matter as you will not do any mods to the body except if needed for the eyes. The SFT body is cheaper, and I personally like the milling on the SFTs way better. Especially the PL cuts. However, from factory, they are only milled for the reflective eye, so running break beam eyes is impossible without milling. Barrels are a little tougher to find also, but whatever. The NXT body comes pre set up for break beam milling so that is a plus. Also, the NXT body is a little longer, so it allows for a little more room between the solenoid and the VA location.
The frame poses a little more selection. you can use any ego/etek frame that is flat on the top. This means frames for both 05 and 06 ego, as well as Etek 1 and Etek 2. All others are contoured on top and wont mate to the body without much more mods.
Etek Star Frame:
This one requires a little more work... because of the Ego8 style trigger block, there isn't much room in here. especially for the Shocker/Impulse noid. its big and there isn't much space for it without completely removing that black. You will have to remove the mounting block, and re drill for a different trigger pin farther forward in the frame. an ego noid makes this one a little easier because of the size constraints.
With each of these, use the respective ego/etek boards.
The next issue is what kind of solenoid are you using?
At this point there are only 3 solenoids that are known to work:
-Parker Shocker solenoid
-05/06 Ego solenoid
after this is modded it will look exactly like the impulse noid.
05 06 Ego Solenoid:
Parker noids will require the upper board to be desoldered from the solenoid, and leads soldered to the posts with the proper connector on the end that way the solenoid can be connected to the board properly.
Impulse noids are basically parker shocker noids with leads already on them. It requires only two mods to be compatible. The correct end would need to be put on the leads to plug into the board. Also, impulse noids operate at a lower pressure than shocker noids, so an internal spring needs to be swapped out. Remove the low pressure spring inside the solenoid, and replace it with a spring from a parker shocker noid. Those springs shouldn't be hard to find as I think most shocker dudes have a whole handful of parker noids with bad coil sections laying around that are perfect for harvesting parts from.
An 05/06 ego solenoid WILL mount directly to the shocker manifold with no modification. All you need are screws that are short enough to hold the solenoid in place. As soon as I find out the threads on those screws, I will post it here. This solenoid already has the proper leads on it obviously. The only trick to these solenoids are, they are a little harder to find, and they have a max operating pressure of around 140-150psi. So you need to be running a low pressure set up to not over pressurize this solenoid. My Eigen bolts are easily within that range. This solenoid is also much smaller than the shocker/impulse noid which makes modding the frame easier.
You cannot use tradition shocker eyes. The ribbons are not compatible with any of the ego style boards. You have a couple options here, a few pretty easy ones. Pretty much any wired break beam eyes can be made to work if the Leds are small enough.
Ego eyes are the easiest as there is no mods needed to the eyes. as long as the body is set up, for break beam eyes, these will thread in and work just fine. They already have the correct connector to connect to the ego board just fine.
Dye eyes are 3mm and will fit in the NXT body with no problem. however, they run off a 3 lead connector, so will need to be modded to get into the eclipse connector with 4 leads. These are also good for people who have sft bodies who were bb milled by TAG, Predator, or by YDNA.
Intimidator eyes, although they are LED, CANNOT be used without mods to the body because they are 5 mm and wont fit into the stock locations. plus in my opinion they are just inferior to the others. plus they have those connectors only 1-2" from the led, making threading them through the body and fitting them into a frame, crazy hard. Just avoid these.
If you are feeling froggy, you can even make your own set using a 3mm led, and a 3mm photo-transistor from Radioshack. Just be ready to solder them up and get the proper connectors.
Originally Posted by tacxplosion
On NXT bodies you should be able to use any 3mm eyes as long as you have them properly wired to a JST 1.5mm 4-pin connector (e-blade/ego eye connector) which is available on ebay.
If you chose the NXT body, you have the pleasure of being set up for break beam eyes already. However threading the eyes through the body is obnoxious, and lining the eyes up to work is also a pain (ego eyes at least). But it's better and easier than the alternative. If you have an SFT body, it will need to be milled for break beam eyes. To my knowledge, there are currently NO machinist offering this mod.