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Old 04-03-2014, 12:23 PM #1
Apollo918
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Shego Information Thread

It seems like steadily over the past year or so, there has been an increase in Shego threads and questions. So I'm going to try and compile everything in one spot here so maybe those questions will be answered.
In all seriousness, the process is really simple. So we will start with the basics. This is kinda just a work in progress right now to avoid paying attention in class. ill add more/edit when i get a minute.

Why build a shego?

It serves no real purpose. There are no performance gains at all. By far the biggest downfall to the shocker is the stock frame (especially the sft frame). This allows you to swap the shocker frames to a more comfortable ego/etek frame. It usually comes with a LCD board and different trigger options. It's a little different, and will get funny looks at the field. If you are looking for something different, this is a good mod for you.





So the first question you need to ask is What frame and Body are you using?

The body doesn't really matter as you will not do any mods to the body except if needed for the eyes. The SFT body is cheaper, and I personally like the milling on the SFTs way better. Especially the PL cuts. However, from factory, they are only milled for the reflective eye, so running break beam eyes is impossible without milling. Barrels are a little tougher to find also, but whatever. The NXT body comes pre set up for break beam milling so that is a plus. Also, the NXT body is a little longer, so it allows for a little more room between the solenoid and the VA location.

The frame poses a little more selection. you can use any ego/etek frame that is flat on the top. This means frames for both 05 and 06 ego, as well as Etek 1 and Etek 2. All others are contoured on top and wont mate to the body without much more mods.

Etek:


ego 6:


ego 5:


Etek Star Frame:

This one requires a little more work... because of the Ego8 style trigger block, there isn't much room in here. especially for the Shocker/Impulse noid. its big and there isn't much space for it without completely removing that black. You will have to remove the mounting block, and re drill for a different trigger pin farther forward in the frame. an ego noid makes this one a little easier because of the size constraints.

With each of these, use the respective ego/etek boards.

The next issue is what kind of solenoid are you using?

At this point there are only 3 solenoids that are known to work:
-Parker Shocker solenoid
-Impulse solenoid
-05/06 Ego solenoid

Shocker parker:

after this is modded it will look exactly like the impulse noid.

Impulse Solenoid:


05 06 Ego Solenoid:


Parker noids will require the upper board to be desoldered from the solenoid, and leads soldered to the posts with the proper connector on the end that way the solenoid can be connected to the board properly.

Impulse noids are basically parker shocker noids with leads already on them. It requires only two mods to be compatible. The correct end would need to be put on the leads to plug into the board. Also, impulse noids operate at a lower pressure than shocker noids, so an internal spring needs to be swapped out. Remove the low pressure spring inside the solenoid, and replace it with a spring from a parker shocker noid. Those springs shouldn't be hard to find as I think most shocker dudes have a whole handful of parker noids with bad coil sections laying around that are perfect for harvesting parts from.

An 05/06 ego solenoid WILL mount directly to the shocker manifold with no modification. All you need are screws that are short enough to hold the solenoid in place. As soon as I find out the threads on those screws, I will post it here. This solenoid already has the proper leads on it obviously. The only trick to these solenoids are, they are a little harder to find, and they have a max operating pressure of around 140-150psi. So you need to be running a low pressure set up to not over pressurize this solenoid. My Eigen bolts are easily within that range. This solenoid is also much smaller than the shocker/impulse noid which makes modding the frame easier.

Eyes

You cannot use tradition shocker eyes. The ribbons are not compatible with any of the ego style boards. You have a couple options here, a few pretty easy ones. Pretty much any wired break beam eyes can be made to work if the Leds are small enough.

Ego eyes are the easiest as there is no mods needed to the eyes. as long as the body is set up, for break beam eyes, these will thread in and work just fine. They already have the correct connector to connect to the ego board just fine.

Dye eyes are 3mm and will fit in the NXT body with no problem. however, they run off a 3 lead connector, so will need to be modded to get into the eclipse connector with 4 leads. These are also good for people who have sft bodies who were bb milled by TAG, Predator, or by YDNA.

Intimidator eyes, although they are LED, CANNOT be used without mods to the body because they are 5 mm and wont fit into the stock locations. plus in my opinion they are just inferior to the others. plus they have those connectors only 1-2" from the led, making threading them through the body and fitting them into a frame, crazy hard. Just avoid these.

If you are feeling froggy, you can even make your own set using a 3mm led, and a 3mm photo-transistor from Radioshack. Just be ready to solder them up and get the proper connectors.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tacxplosion View Post
On NXT bodies you should be able to use any 3mm eyes as long as you have them properly wired to a JST 1.5mm 4-pin connector (e-blade/ego eye connector) which is available on ebay.
If you chose the NXT body, you have the pleasure of being set up for break beam eyes already. However threading the eyes through the body is obnoxious, and lining the eyes up to work is also a pain (ego eyes at least). But it's better and easier than the alternative. If you have an SFT body, it will need to be milled for break beam eyes. To my knowledge, there are currently NO machinist offering this mod.

Ego eyes:


Proto eyes:
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Old 04-03-2014, 12:23 PM #2
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Now for the fun part. Doing the Mod

Ill post pictures of this section after class

This is actually a really simple 2 step process
Slot the frame to make space for the solenoid.
Drill for frame screws

Then connect everything and you are done.

I use a Dremel to do it. If you take your time, it's not hard to do. Rush, and you can mess the frame up.

The best place to remove material is behind the trigger. This will push the frame farther back, but also prevent you from punching a hole in the back of the frame. The back of the frame, right at the top of the hand is a particularly thin spot and if too much material is removed you can put a hole in the frame. Just be careful and pay attention. If necessary, remove material from the back of the trigger as well to clear the solenoid.

I mostly used a cutting wheel, and 2 end mill bits. 1/4 " and 1/8" .



i use the cutting wheel like this and it worked really well. i think cutting wheels are a nice clean way to remove material.



I also used a broken parts solenoid to use as a test fit solenoid so I wouldn't damage my operational solenoid. i used tape to mock everything up to show where everything is.













when the solenoid pits, you will still have to remove a little right here for the leads to come through



THIS IS WHAT NOT TO DO! Dont go crazy or it will be a complete mess! take it slow and be neat with it.




This is the hole ion the back of the frame i mentioned. Just be easy and go slow. pay attention



This is not an incredibly hard mod to do. If you get all the Parts and just look at it, you will see what needs to be done. Just take your time and ask if you need anything. Ill keep this updated as best i can with new information
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Old 04-03-2014, 01:28 PM #3
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Just what I needed. Currently sourcing parts for a shego build. Manged to get a ego solenoid for cheap.

I have heard people using the DM eyes and modding the connection allowing them to be plugged into the ego/etek board.
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Old 04-03-2014, 02:23 PM #4
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On NXT bodies you should be able to use any 3mm eyes as long as you have them properly wired to a JST 1.5mm 4-pin connector (e-blade/ego eye connector) which is available on ebay.
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:28 PM #5
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Im for sure doing this. just need to source an sft and a etek star frame. That second picture is sexy
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:32 PM #6
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:38 PM #7
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I forgot all about DM eyes. I'm still in class for now. I'll add more stuff as I get time/think about it or as people tell me to add it.
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:44 PM #8
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Quote:
The body doesn't really matter as you will not do any mods to the body.
you should take this part out. because if you get an SFT you have to BB mill it.
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Old 04-03-2014, 04:56 PM #9
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Updated. If you all want anything added just holler.
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:27 PM #10
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Here's the link to buy the pre made wire harness to plug a shocker noid into an ego board.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-Mini-J...item2338282dbd
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Old 04-03-2014, 10:46 PM #11
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:25 AM #12
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I know you mentioned that the Etek star frame was a much tighter fit for the noid than other ego frames, however, if using an 05/06 noid, is any further modification required?

You mention having to move the trigger pin forward, but would that be an issue with an 05/06 ego noid or just the shocker/impulse noids?
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:09 AM #13
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Yes. I'll take some measurements tonight if I think about it.
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Old 04-20-2014, 02:55 AM #14
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Apollo any luck with the measurements?

Also if you are using an ego noid, from reading other threads, screw size is 1.6mm x 12mm screws.
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Old 04-20-2014, 08:49 AM #15
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I forgot I made this template. It shows location/outline of the 05/06 solenoid using the frame screws as reference. Hopefully this helps without me taking my entire dynasty apart.





Notice I started measuring at the 1" mark.

And for those of you who prefer centimeters.



This is on a stock body sft. The length will be different for dynasty sfts and nxt bodies. I'll try and get those pictures in a bit. But that does require me to take apart the dynasty :/
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Old 04-20-2014, 05:48 PM #16
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Hey Apollo, with my nxt/starframe combo with humphrey, regarding the trigger and trigger block you dont need to move the trigger pin or anything like that, i used a file and slowly filed the back of the trigger and trigger block until it fit you cant use the set screw that holds the trigger to the pin, but that didnt change the trigger feel or function.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:17 PM #17
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Awesome. With which solenoid?
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:45 PM #18
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:59 PM #19
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Excellent.
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Old 04-23-2014, 08:45 PM #20
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Did you have to trim the front of your star frame at all to get it to fit? I'm currently trying to fit my star frame on with an 05/06 noid and am having a hard time deciding where to begin removing material on the frame.. Are there any links anywhere or photos of how you guys modified the trigger block?

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Old 04-23-2014, 09:25 PM #21
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If someone doesn't beat me to it I can post pics of my star frame trigger tonight when I'm off work
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