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Old 02-18-2014, 04:48 PM #1
gunhero5
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Building An Autococker (or Sniper Pump) 101

Here is an in-depth list of parts required to build your Autococker. Whether you're starting out with just a body kit and need to know what parts to buy, or you're looking to upgrade what you already have, this list will point out everything you'll need.

*Video to come soon*

In-depth Autococker Parts List

Parts Common to all Autococker / pump / mid / half-block markers
● Body – Milled body with upper and lower tube. Upper tube holds the breech and bolt, lower tube holds hammer, valve, and associated springs.
o Different body styles:
▪ Full-size
▪ Mini
● Approximately 1.25 inch cut off front of lower tube, vertical ASA directly integrated into front block.
▪ Mid-block
▪ Half-block
▪ Midget
● Mini-style front, some meat cut off back.
● Front block
o Mechanical / electronic
▪ Low pressure regulator
▪ Ram (with or without QEV’s)
▪ 3-way
● On electronics, solenoid + manifold
o Connects to grip frame via wiring harness
● On mechanicals, standard 3-way
o Connects to grip frame via timing rod and timing collar
▪ Full body length
▪ Mini body length
▪ Trilogy length (fixed length, no collar)
▪ If using a mini front block, there’s likely a ⅛” NPT plug required on the bottom (or a low pressure, 0-400PSI gauge)
▪ 3-way pneumatic hose
o Pumps
▪ pump handle,
▪ guide rods,
▪ springs
o All front blocks are attached with a banjo bolt to the body, through the front block.
▪ On non-pumps, a volumizing banjo bolt may be used to increase available valve chamber space (more important on older bodies)
● Vertical ASA
o On mini / midget bodies, the ASA is integrated into the front block, or attaches to the front block via a ⅛” NPT adapter
o On all other bodies, sits between the front block and grip frame.
▪ Comes in 15*, 0*, and -15* versions
● High Pressure regulator
o On modern autocockers (really with the appropriate springs) should be able to provide between 150 and 400 psi to gun. Older bodies with narrower valve chambers may need higher pressure
● Pump arm
o Connects either the ram or the pump handle to the (what I’ll call) bolt carrier group
● Bolt carrier group
o Consists of a bolt, block, and rod or pin to connect the block to the hammer
▪ Bolt – Pre-2k length, 2k length, evo length, mid-block length
▪ Block
● Pre-2k length (looks like a P)
● 2k length (looks like a rectangle)
● Evo length (looks like a reverse P)
● Midblock – sled that rides between upper tube and lower tube
● Halfblock – sled that rides on lower tube (no upper tube)
▪ Rod or pin – connects the block to the hammer
● Pre-2k, 2k, and evo blocks will connect to hammer via cocking rod through back of body and a pin connects the block to the bolt
● Mid and half blocks connect to a slotted hammer via pin from top of bolt through the top of the lower tube
● detent
o WGP bodies generally use a spring-retained ball detent
o Some body styles use Timmy / Spyder / Piranha style rubber detents
o A few body styles (Merlins IIRC) use wire detent
● Beaver tail
o Usually threads behind the grip frame into the body
o Some body styles don’t have that hole threaded and require a special, fixed location IVG
● Lower tube internals
o Valve + valve pin + valve spring
▪ Trilogy / merlin valve
▪ Standard autococker valve (brass, stainless steel, etc)
▪ MQ (electronic) valve – replaces all lower internals with electronic valve and solenoid
o Valve nut – threads behind valve into lower tube securing it in place
o Valve guide plug – threads through bottom of body to hold valve in place
o Hammer
▪ On non-MQ valves:
● Non-slotted hammers for full-size, mini bodies
● Slotted hammers for half block and mid block markers
o Sear lug
▪ Adjustable height to control timing
▪ Square and round varieties
o Main spring
▪ On all non-MQ bodies – sits between hammer and IVG. Forces hammer into valve to fire marker
o IVG
▪ Fixed: non adjustable versions available in some kits (belsales, Merlin)
▪ Adjustable – usually threads into lower tube of body to adjust velocity of marker
▪ Hybrid – Karnivor style. IVG stays fixed to the body, but inner adjustment screw allows additional pressure to be applied to mainspring
● Grip frame
o All frames will have grips of some form and sears of some form of solenoid / electronics
o Electronic
▪ eBlade
▪ Race frame
▪ Centerflag Uprising frame
▪ ???
o Mechanical
▪ Slide frame
● Metal or plastic
● Trigger plate
o Circular hole or oval hole for timing rod (all newer cockers use circular hole)
● Trigger shoe – attaches to trigger plate, what you pull on
● Sear – roller or standard, held in place by pin
● Trigger spring – sits between back of trigger plate and frame
● Sear spring – sits between sear and support in the grip frame
● Safety, safety spring, safety ball bearing (seriously, who uses them?)
▪ Hinge frame
● Trigger – held in place by pin
● Sear – held in place by pin
● Lever or spring to push against top of trigger
● Sear spring – sits below sear and support in the grip frame
● Safety, safety sprint, safety ball bearing
▪ For pump markers
● Auto-trigger kit may be attached to pump arm and frame
● ASA – screw your tank or remote into this.


Compiled by Mod, dymium

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Old 02-18-2014, 04:48 PM #2
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Basic and essential parts check list
Use this list to cross/double check that your Autococker has all the necessary parts.

Mechanical
  1. Feedneck
  2. Bolt
  3. Barrel
  4. 3-way
  5. Regulator (LPR)
  6. RAM
  7. Pump Arm
  8. Lower Internals (Valve, Valve Guide Plug, Valve Nut, Hammer, Springs, IVG, Cocking Rod)
  9. Trigger Frame
  10. ASA
  11. Regulator (HPR)
  12. Detent
  13. Beaver Tail

Pump
  1. Feedneck
  2. Bolt
  3. Barrel
  4. Pump Kit (Pump handle, guide rod, springs)
  5. Pump Arm
  6. Lower Internals (Valve, Valve Guide Plug, Valve Nut, Hammer, Springs, IVG, Cocking Rod)
  7. Trigger Frame
  8. ASA
  9. Regulator (HPR)
  10. Detent
  11. Beaver Tail

Electronic
  1. Feedneck
  2. Bolt
  3. Barrel
  4. Solenoid Manifold
  5. Regulator (LPR)
  6. Ram
  7. Pump Arm
  8. Lower Internals (Valve, Valve Guide Plug, Valve Nut, Hammer, Springs, IVG, Cocking Rod)
  9. Trigger Frame
  10. ASA
  11. Regulator (HPR)
  12. Detent
  13. Beaver Tail


There are also a couple specialty tools you will need for full disassembly, beyond a good set of hex/allen wrenches.

-Valve Removal Tool
-12pt 1/4" Socket

Valve removal tools are pretty easy to pick up on the web both new and used.
I got my 12pt socket at Sears.

Compiled by Mod, shunut


Quote:
Originally Posted by noclue119 View Post
So this isn't quite an autococker. But here is the break down of parts you need to make a pump.

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Old 02-18-2014, 04:48 PM #3
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Mechanical Assembly




Mechanical Disassembly




Pump/Sniper Assembly




Pump Sniper Disassembly

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Old 02-18-2014, 11:19 PM #4
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● Approximately 1 inch cut off front of lower tube, vertical ASA directly integrated into front block.

I always take 1.25" off to be exact.

● Mini-style front, some meat cut off back. Can only be used with MQ valves.

Not true, I have built about five mechanical mini, midget, halfblocks. All have worked fine, you just have to play with spring combos a lot.
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Old 02-19-2014, 11:33 AM #5
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Nice write up!

This will help a lot of people.
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:16 PM #6
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thank you, very helpful
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Old 02-28-2014, 11:28 PM #7
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Good stuff right here this is a great write up. Almost makes you want to start a build.
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Old 04-02-2014, 01:00 PM #8
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So this isn't quite an autococker. But here is the break down of parts you need to make a pump.



This is what it looks like after assembly and before anno

Last edited by noclue119 : 04-24-2014 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 04-02-2014, 01:01 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noclue119 View Post
So this isn't quite an autococker. But here is the break down of parts you need to make a pump.
Awesome addition.

Does anyone have a similar picture to make a full cocker?
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Old 04-02-2014, 02:06 PM #10
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Might want to add this........ its on an old tripod site so you may want to host it somewhere else lest it be lost.

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Old 04-02-2014, 03:01 PM #11
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Quote:
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Might want to add this........ its on an old tripod site so you may want to host it somewhere else lest it be lost.

Adding it in a minute. Thanks!
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:36 PM #12
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Labelled Image:

http://i.imgur.com/cvBbZQV.jpg

List of parts:

1 Inception Designs Barrel Front .689
2 Inception Designs Barrel Back .675
3 Inception Designs Barrel 14 in Tip
4 Inception Designs Barrel Back .680
5 CCM T Grip Pump Handle
6 CCM Pump Return Spring
7 CCM T Grip Pump Plate
8 CCM Pump Plate Screws X2
9 CCM Pump Kit Main Guide Rod
10 CCM Pump Kit Seconary Guide Rod
11 CCM Pump Kit O-rings X2
12 CCM Pump Arm
13 Empire Sniper Feedneck
14 Empire Sniper Feedneck Lever
15 Empire Sniper Feedneck Bushing
16 Empire Sniper Feedneck Thumb Nut
17 Empire Sniper Feedneck Screws X2
18 CCM Regulator
19 CCM Autotrigger Cam
20 CCM Autotrigger Lever
21 CCM Autotrigger Pin X2
22 CCM Autotrigger Lever Screw
23 CCM Autotrigger Shoulder Screw
24 Inception Designs Kryptonite Full Lengh Body
25 Inception Designs Kryptonite Back Block
26 Inception Designs Kryptonite Vertical ASA
27 WGP VASA O-Ring
28 WGP Autococker Detent
29 CCM Full Length Autococker Bolt
30 CCM Pull Pin
31 CCM Valve Spring
32 CCM Cup Seal
33 CCM Valve Body
34 CCM Valve Jam Nut
35 CCM Valve Set Screw
36 CCM Hammer(full lenght)
37 CCM Main Hammer Spring
38 CCM IVG
39 CCM Cocking Rod
40 CCM Beaver Tail
41 CCM 86 Slider Trigger Plate Shoulder Screws
42 CCM 86 Slider Trigger Plate
43 CCM Sear Pin Set Screw
44 CCM Sear Pin
45 Belsales Roller Sear
46 Belsales Roller Sear Spring
47 CCM 86 Slider Trigger Frame
48 Slider Trigger Plate Height Adjustment Screw
49 CCM 86* Frame mounting Screws X2
50 Hogue Wraparound Rubber Grips CZ 75
51 CCM Grip Panel Screws X2
52 CCM Micro Rail
53 CCM Rail Mounting Screws X2
54 CCM ON/OFF ASA Knob
55 CCM ON/OFF ASA Pin
56 CCM ON/OFF ASA Body

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...&usp=drive_web
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:40 AM #13
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Very nice guys. a good read.
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:54 AM #14
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This makes me want to build one now. Thanks guys.
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:35 AM #15
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Great write up! I highly recommend building a cocker for anyone who has the interest.
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:04 PM #16
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Awesome addition.

Does anyone have a similar picture to make a full cocker?
I'll post mine when I finish getting parts for my SFL builds
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Old 04-08-2014, 01:39 PM #17
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get yourself a mini cocker body and never need a 12 pt socket
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:19 PM #18
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get yourself a mini cocker body and never need a 12 pt socket
Craftsman from Sears. Nice and easy if there's one local. Perhaps a note on making your own valve tool from an appropriate hex wrench....
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:33 PM #19
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Great post
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Old 04-08-2014, 03:16 PM #20
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get yourself a mini cocker body and never need a 12 pt socket
or u can just replace that 1 screw with a hex head from your local ace hardware
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