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Old 01-16-2014, 03:52 PM #1
Jay2014
 
 
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Crossover V1 XVR Upgrades

I am posting some upgrades I have done in case it might help others wanting to do the same thing but unsure of what works and what does not.

Crossover Upgrades and Modifications, or How to Convert a V1 Crossover to an XVR

This is a V1 Crossover with Freak barrel kit, short foregrip, new trigger, toolless grips, on/off asa a Virtue LED Board and MRT bolt which almost duplicates the Crossover XVR (only better)



This second marker has a Freak barrel kit, DW Whip Tip, carbon fiber foregrip, new trigger, toolless grips, on/off asa, Nummech drop forward and MRT bolt.





1) Barrel ; I have a Freak back with a Deadlywinds 6" Whip Tip. I also have the 8" Whip Tip that may come in handy when playing airball. The fact that I already had the A5 Freak barrel and inserts was one of the main reasons I got the Crossover to begin with. I could convert parts I already had to a more modern and effecient platform. Using the XVR Barrel kit would accomplish the same thing, but it will currently cost you $129 to get 3 backs @ .680 .684 & .688 and a front.

2) Fore Grip; Be aware that in order to change out the front foregrip, you have to remove a machine screw inside the handle and then take the handle off the air fitting that screws into the marker’s receiver. I used a 5/8” wood dowel, inserted it in the end that goes into the marker, and warmed the nylon handle over a gas burner on the stove to loosen it. Then I pulled it off with pliers. I made a carbon fiber fore grip to match the barrel tip, but if you want to put the XVR handle on, it will need to be lined up on the marker and pounded on with a mallet. Then the machine screw can be reinstalled.

3) Trigger; Go to the Tippmann website, fill out the form and get the free trigger upgrade in the mail. Leave out the orange spring and good to go.

4) Toolless grip; This grip is no different than the stock grip except it does not have the gray panel inserts and it has a small cut out on the right side for the button to pop it loose. The grip upgrade really amounts to making studs out of the cap head screws on the left side of the grip. I ground them down with a medium sanding wheel on a dremel until they were just slightly larger than the threads. I applied blue locktite to the threads, popped the left grip over them and tightened until there was no gap between the grip frame and the grip. If you have a dremel, this is about a $1.00 modification. It is quite easy to pop the grip loose, although I doubt it would be possible with gloves. It certainly beats digging around for an allen wrench to install, replace or remove the battery though!



5) On/Off ASA; Probably the most important upgrade IMHO. This will eleminate worn bottle threads, and it also changed the bottle position so the gauge is facing the left. This is good for me as I usually hold the marker in my right hand and I will remember to look at it more often. To match the marker color I painted it, but a better option would be powder coating. Maybe later. They are available in red, olive and titanium with a thin anodized coating, so it requires sanding prior to refinishing.

6) Tippmann Case; With the drop forward, my marker won’t fit the stock case, so I am using a laptop case instead. It fits the marker perfect, holds the barrel, tips inserts and tools nicely, and keeps everything organized. The Tippmann case would be fine otherwise



7) Nummech Drop Forward; I installed this drop forward and really like it. It places the barrel directly in front of my face, shortens the overall length by about 3” and works great for me. It installed in just a few minutes, is sturdy, fits nicely, has no sharp edges and does not leak air. I would give it a 9 out of 10. If the finish was satin black instead of an off brown shiny color it would get a 10. I painted it too and may powder coat both the drop forward and the ASA if the finish deteriorates to quickly.

8) TechT MRT bolt; Raises velocity by about 25fps so logic would assume you would get better gas efficiency by turning down the input pressure. It lowers kick slightly, but considering the weight of the marker with a full hopper and tank, that would be secondary. I have not burned through enough ammo in 1 day to know how many shots I get from my 45/4500 ninja tank, but I will post back when I have it counted.

Other possible upgrades;

AC Thread adapter; Lapco has had one of these for sale for a decade, but hey, it is nice of them to offer it.

Toolless XVR Bolt; I don’t see the need to spend $65 so I don’t have to use a wrench to pull out the bolt. I don’t usually do that at the field.

Virtue Board; I have heard it is a significant improvement, but I haven’t had any trouble with programming the stock board and the fields I play at don’t let you shoot over 15 bps so no need to change it. (yet)

I am sure there are a few things I forgot, and I have no doubt there is room to add a few more as time goes by. I hope this helps anyone wordering about how to upgrade their V1 Crossover with XVR components.

Last edited by Jay2014 : 05-12-2014 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:34 AM #2
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Great review. I will say the Virtue Board is a great upgrade, if for nothing more then the battery will not drain so fast.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:51 AM #3
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My upgrades so far have been a 14" Deadlywind Fibur X with stainless steel inserts, the new improved trigger from Tipmann and instead of the lighter spring I installed magnets that makes the trigger even lighter in electronic mode, but gives the trigger a good kick back in mechanical mode due to the longer travel of the trigger letting the magnets get closer.
By the way, I love the idea of just sanding down the original screws for the toolless access to the battery.
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:56 PM #4
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I think the Lapco AC thread adapter is for a breech replacement only. You can't actually screw it into the existing Crossover breech. There is a company on ebay (Tiller) that sells an AC thread adapter that will screw into the Crossover, but after I purchased it I noticed that I frequently would get my bolt stuck in the back of the Tiller adapter (especially on mech mode).

What's that in silver on your back cap?
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Old 01-17-2014, 03:59 PM #5
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I think the Lapco AC thread adapter is for a breech replacement only. You can't actually screw it into the existing Crossover breech. There is a company on ebay (Tiller) that sells an AC thread adapter that will screw into the Crossover, but after I purchased it I noticed that I frequently would get my bolt stuck in the back of the Tiller adapter (especially on mech mode). What's that in silver on your back cap?
That's good to know. I have an A/C to A5 adapter for my Traccer, but not the other way around to test. I guess it is like the older Fibur barrels where the bolt gets stuck in the breech when dry firing in mech mode.

The silver back cap is stock.



I have one of the first ones to come out (#000034) and I guess it had some different parts on it. Both the feed neck thumb screw and the back cap are polished aluminum with black painted indentions. It looks like most of them are plain black now. Also the original trigger was unfinished aluminum.
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:59 PM #6
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Yeah, mine is #1691 and as you mentioned, it's black on both the back cap and feedneck screw. Did you buy the XVR grips? They also look different from the ones I'm using (thinner and no grey on yours).
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:06 PM #7
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Did you buy the XVR grips? They also look different from the ones I'm using (thinner and no grey on yours).
Yes, I bought the XVR grips. I have been taking the battery out every time I store it, and I really got tired of getting out tools to remove it. I had a feeling that the screws were what was different, but I thought the XVR grips might also have softer plastic around the screw holes. They do not. The color is the only difference. I would imagine you could get the part number for the grip studs off the XVR diagram and order them from Tippmann, but it was faster just to make them.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:11 PM #8
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So I played a few games yesterday and kept track of refill pressure and how many rounds I shot. This is with the TechT MRT bolt shooting +/- 285 fps. My first fill was to 4200 psi in a 45 ci ninja tank set at 800psi output. I got a refill at 1000 psi to 4000 and finished with 2000 psi left. I shot almost exactly 1000 rounds. (-20) that equates to 5200 psi used or 5.2 psi per round.

If the realistic fill on a 45/45 is about 4200psi and no one wants to shoot down to 300 or so in the middle of a game, that would be about 3800. Divide that by 5.2 and I calculate 730 usable rounds out of a tank fill which would be a hopper and almost 5 120 rnd pods.

Not exactly a scientific test, but now I know when to go for a refill. For those that blow through more than 5 pods in a game, I would suggest a bigger tank than a 45/45.
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Old 01-20-2014, 01:19 PM #9
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So I played a few games yesterday and kept track of refill pressure and how many rounds I shot. This is with the TechT MRT bolt shooting +/- 285 fps. My first fill was to 4200 psi in a 45 ci ninja tank set at 800psi output. I got a refill at 1000 psi to 4000 and finished with 2000 psi left. I shot almost exactly 1000 rounds. (-20) that equates to 5200 psi used or 5.2 psi per round.

If the realistic fill on a 45/45 is about 4200psi and no one wants to shoot down to 300 or so in the middle of a game, that would be about 3800. Divide that by 5.2 and I calculate 730 usable rounds out of a tank fill which would be a hopper and almost 5 120 rnd pods.

Not exactly a scientific test, but now I know when to go for a refill. For those that blow through more than 5 pods in a game, I would suggest a bigger tank than a 45/45.
Not too bad at all. I will have to test mine again, but I believe i was able to get a Spire 260 and 7 pods with about 500 psi left on a 68/4.5k tank.
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:47 PM #10
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That should be about 1100 rounds from a 68/45. The 68 is 50% larger than the 45 so my 730 rounds plus 375 (50%) = 1100 just as you say. Makes sense to me.
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:11 PM #11
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Did either of you try adjusting the dwell at all after adding the MRT bolt? I think I read one of the TMG Effect players had pushed his up to 8, but then never saw any word on the results.

I've tentatively bumped my dwell up to 6.5 (from 5.5 stock) but haven't had a chance to test it out.
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:00 PM #12
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Not me, default settings on board shooting psp ramping. Some firing in mechanical mode.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:47 PM #13
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Not me, default settings on board shooting psp ramping. Some firing in mechanical mode.
Yeah have not changed the setting just yet want to break it in more first.
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:31 AM #14
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The way the crossover operates, dwell shouldn't have an affect on anything other than battery life.

You need the dwell high enough to fully throw the on/off pin, but raising it beyond that point will only waste energy, not effect the cycle time of the marker.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:52 PM #15
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The way the crossover operates, dwell shouldn't have an affect on anything other than battery life.

You need the dwell high enough to fully throw the on/off pin, but raising it beyond that point will only waste energy, not effect the cycle time of the marker.
never thought about it like that.
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:34 PM #16
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My only problem has been with the feedneck, for some reason I just can't get it to tighten down enough. My first loader was a Halo too and that was okay, but with my Spire the thing almost spins no matter how tight I lock down the feedneck.
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Old 01-22-2014, 02:28 PM #17
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The way the crossover operates, dwell shouldn't have an affect on anything other than battery life.

You need the dwell high enough to fully throw the on/off pin, but raising it beyond that point will only waste energy, not effect the cycle time of the marker.
Hmm, the implication for me then would be to lower the dwell to the lowest point possible where it still fully throws the on/off pin. I guess it's possible that this is higher than the stock setting, but I'd find it unlikely.

I wish there was a clear marker animation for the crossover version of the flex valve to better understand how the solenoid is interacting with the on/off pin.
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:22 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unfated33 View Post
I think the Lapco AC thread adapter is for a breech replacement only. You can't actually screw it into the existing Crossover breech. There is a company on ebay (Tiller) that sells an AC thread adapter that will screw into the Crossover, but after I purchased it I noticed that I frequently would get my bolt stuck in the back of the Tiller adapter (especially on mech mode).

What's that in silver on your back cap?
Tippmann has a milled down bolt to stop that issue. Had similar issues with Freak kit with the .690 insert. No issues with the MRT.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:05 PM #19
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Tippmann has a milled down bolt to stop that issue. Had similar issues with Freak kit with the .690 insert. No issues with the MRT.
Never heard about the milled down bolt. I have not had any problems yet with my Fibur X and my Freak set though.
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Old 02-04-2014, 09:57 AM #20
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Only showed up when I went to 0.690 insert.
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Old 02-04-2014, 01:00 PM #21
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Hmm, the implication for me then would be to lower the dwell to the lowest point possible where it still fully throws the on/off pin.
This will give you optimal battery life, but no efficiency gains.

In other news - Received my XVR venting on/off. Great product.
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