Last week I finally got the guts to perform a mod on my TiPX that would effectively remove the need to have a 12 gram cartridge. Before I show you, please read the warning.
Any attempt at this modification WILL DESTROY YOUR PUNCTURE PIN ASSEMBLY AND GAS LINE and has the possibility to destroy your receiver/body, regulator assembly, and valve assembly OR YOUR ENTIRE TIPX. This will void your warranty. This modification is to be performed at your own risk. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY OUTCOME OF ATTEMPTING THIS MODIFICATION.
Here's the photo, enjoy!
I know I said I'd do this last night, but things came up. I was at least able to get the needed pictures, so I'm doing it today.
What you will need
- JB Weld or similar (I used their compound tested to nearly 4,000 psi holding pressure)
- 2 metal rods, wooden dowels, or another rigid objects that fit down the gas line with almost no room to wiggle inside of the gas line with a length of 1-2.5".
- A standard 111 oring.
Obviously, you need to take apart your TiPX. Now weather or not you want to cut the body is entirely your choice, not to mention should be done with ALL of the internals removed.
Now that you're marker is disassembled, you need to understand a few things.
- You're trying to keep the air from flowing through the gas line in the direction the arrow is showing, in other words, leading out of the regulator and into the puncture pin assembly. (pictured below)
- The puncture pin assembly is what provides the majority of the tension on the trigger, so it is recommended to keep it in.
- I plugged the gas line to reduce the risk of the JB Weld compound gumming up and destroying the regulator.
Remove the gas line and puncture pin assembly, and wash thoroughly with hot water and let it dry. Once the gas line is completely dry mix up your JB Weld. I used a pea sized drop of each tube (pictured below). Pack the gas line with the compound. Leave a little for the next step.
once the line is packed to your satisfaction, add a little JB weld to the outside end of the gas line that is packed with JB weld, and insert it back into the puncture pin assembly. It should look like the picture below when you're finished.
Now let it sit for 24 hours. IF THE COMPOUND DOES NOT SIT FOR 24 HOURS IT WILL NOT BOND OR HARDEN CORRECTLY.
Now that your compound is completely set, you'll need the rigid object mentioned before. I used a tooth pick because it was the exact shape i needed. You're going to trim one end of the toothpick to be flat.
Now mix up another small batch of JB Weld and cover as much of the toothpick from step 5 as possible. Insert the flat end into the gas line going towards the puntcure pin assembly, and push it as far in as possible. Wipe any excess JB weld off of the outside of the gas line. It should match the crappy diagram below.
Once the toothpick is in, you need to cut the 111 oring and start to insert it into the gas line as shown below. Stuff as much in as you can, then cut the oring flush with the gas line
You need the rigid object to ensure that the oring you'll use does not travel down the gas line and jam the puncture pin assembly. The shape of the toothpick allows the oring to 'mushroom' inside the gas line, allowing for a better seal.
Let the new JB weld cure for another 24 hours.
The reason for all of the JB weld is to ensure that the gas line does not move around or allow the toothpick to move.
Lube everything back up and put it back together! Once the marker is put back together, hook up your tank and remote line. Once the gun is connected to the tank via remote line, turn the gas on SLOWLY and listen for leaks. If there are no leaks, you're good to go! Your TiPX/TPX will seal completely without use of an empty 12 gram.