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Old 07-30-2013, 11:02 PM #43
flalasoya
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Should have figured out a way to cover the rivets with the wrap also. That would make it mint that silver just screws it up
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:07 PM #44
digital sol
 
 
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Originally Posted by flalasoya View Post
Should have figured out a way to cover the rivets with the wrap also. That would make it mint that silver just screws it up
With it being the first pair ive made I didnt wanna rivet them then wrap as if i need to remove a rivet id have to do all that wrap work over again, perhaps the next pair i do will be done that way but didnt wanna risk the time put into the wrap without getting some use on them and see how i like them on the field. I agree though, something ill definitely consider going forward!

Ill touch them up a tad w/either the material used or a dab of paint. Just wanted to provide clear pics of rivet locations for others down the road
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:08 PM #45
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Wow! Looks a little better than my dad's windowed Luxe that he made. Though, there will always be a place in my heart for that gun. SICK!
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:09 PM #46
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Looks pretty good. How'd you get the bottom piece of the i4's off?
I cut them/trimmed them. The entire bottom section of the original i4 was removed..these cannot be returned to factory i4's. The set of i4's I used were in ruff shape but nothing a wrap, new foam & lens couldn't take care of
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:10 PM #47
GanjaPalooza
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very impressive, this is great work and maybe might open some windows for a job somewhere?!
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:15 PM #48
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this is amazing
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:32 AM #49
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Looks pretty good. How'd you get the bottom piece of the i4's off?

c'mon
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:34 AM #50
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very impressive, this is great work and maybe might open some windows for a job somewhere?!
Thanks, ive been doing this as side work for a while but ive done a little bit of everything at this point, i really enjoy doing it

Last finished pics till the bronze fire lens shows up.

I wanna see some flex bottom i4's peeps!





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Old 07-31-2013, 02:11 AM #51
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Very nice. Well done sir.
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:18 AM #52
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Personally, the gold wrap is a bit too tacky for me. But the mask itself is really well done!

Any chance you're going to try some different bottoms on it? The standard flex bottom (like the 'original' modded mask) looks more comfortable imo since the flex bottoms have amazing coverage and ventilation.

Also, instead of rivets, could you use the JT fasteners?
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:34 AM #53
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Looks amazing! Kinda inspired me to try it on my GTi/Spire and possibly create a I4 with flex bottoms since I don't use my I4s as they are anymore, too small for my big *** head.

One question, about how much material does it take to cover the marker, spire and mask roughly? So I know how much to order sheet wise.. I would just send it to you but can't have the down time! Really good work.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:25 AM #54
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Originally Posted by seaskimmer View Post
Personally, the gold wrap is a bit too tacky for me. But the mask itself is really well done!

Any chance you're going to try some different bottoms on it? The standard flex bottom (like the 'original' modded mask) looks more comfortable imo since the flex bottoms have amazing coverage and ventilation.

Also, instead of rivets, could you use the JT fasteners?
I might make another set with standard flex bottoms or try those on here eventually but for now I wanna see how they hold up & feel on the field.

Those may work but ive never used them and im not sure id trust locking plastic like that to hold the front of the mask on, the rivets may be overkill but they keep it on there snug. I could be wrong, id really have to see those in person to know for sure.
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:27 AM #55
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Originally Posted by RichyJ View Post
Looks amazing! Kinda inspired me to try it on my GTi/Spire and possibly create a I4 with flex bottoms since I don't use my I4s as they are anymore, too small for my big *** head.

One question, about how much material does it take to cover the marker, spire and mask roughly? So I know how much to order sheet wise.. I would just send it to you but can't have the down time! Really good work.
Honestly Ive never really kept track as Ive always ordered in large rolls due to the amount of wraps i do. Id say if you have never wrapped an item you will want to order more as it will require some practice to get it perfect.

You will also need a heat gun, primer 94, rubbing alcohol, and fresh blades to work with this material.

I hear ya on the i4's! I would also recommend using Di Noc by 3m vs other brands, especially if its your first wrap as other materials are much less forgivable with less stretch ability. Its a tad more expensive but its quality stuff.
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Last edited by digital sol : 07-31-2013 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:38 AM #56
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Very nice job that mask is sick.

I think the mask being too long might just be the angle of the picture. In some pictures they seem just fine.
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:05 PM #57
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now is the flex part still flex or because of the wrap it is hard
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:12 PM #58
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now is the flex part still flex or because of the wrap it is hard
These are the proshield bottoms so they are hard to start with. I wanted to do the proshields first, ill try the standard flex bottoms eventually. Its all preference really.
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:18 PM #59
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Very nice job that mask is sick.

I think the mask being too long might just be the angle of the picture. In some pictures they seem just fine.
Yea I cant really tell either until my new foam shows up, it actually should arrive today along with a bronze fire lens so ill try and get some mask on pics. I hate selfies but ill make an exception for the mask haha. I think the cf on the bottoms makes them look longer than they really are, with how they are tucked up into the i4 its really not "that" much longer than the i4's but enough to offer the protection I wanted. I have another set of non modified i4's, ill try and snap some pics of both for reference in sizing etc. Thanks, lmk if there is anything else
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:38 PM #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny96211 View Post
I'm not going to lie, i think the mask looks hideous. Sorry i had to be the first one with a negative comment, but its just my opinion. The bottoms look way too long and disproportionate to the top half.

On the bright side of things, That luxe and spire look sexy!
I gotta agree, they dont look at all..

Not to mention its asking for something to happen with the fit of the fram to the bottoms ect..

And from what I have come to understand, (although I havent played tournament in some time) dont tournament rules prohibit modified masks of any kind? to the point that some rules dont even allow flipped up flexs.

mask rules per apl


1.2 Goggle Systems:
A. It is mandatory for every person (judges, players and spectators) to wear goggles that meet or exceed ASTM
standards when they are directly exposed to fields while games are in progress, or when they are directly exposed
to any authorized shooting area while markers are being discharged.
B. Each goggle system must include an approved full facemask and ear protection made specifically for that model
of goggle. The goggle system components shall not be altered from their original factory condition
. All goggle
systems are subject to safety inspection and approval. PENALTY: PLAYER ELIMINATED.

Mask rules per NPPL


6. Protective Gear
6.01 Facemask / Goggles. Players, officials and any other individuals present in a goggle-safe area (e.g., the playing field and Chrono-station) must wear Goggles with full-face
protection manufactured for use in paintball games in its original form. Goggles must meet or
exceed ASTM standards for eye protection and lenses be in good repair. Goggles must have
adequate ear protection. See ASTM Standard F1776


mask rules per psp

2. Protective Gear
5.2.1. Players must wear a complete goggle system that meets ASTM standards [41] and is in good
repair and not otherwise damaged in a manner that affects their ability to protect the player [42]. A
person who fails to wear an acceptable goggle system in a designated goggles-on area, including the
field of play, will be assessed a minor penalty. [43]
5.2.1.1. No material may be removed from the manufacturer's original form. Items not of a padded or
absorbent, or moisture resistant or repelling nature [44] may be added to the goggle system provided
they do not adversely impact the ability of the goggle system to protect the player.
5.2.1.2. Players must wear the full-face protection provided with the goggle system as it is designed
and sold by the manufacturer.

5.2.1.3. Players must wear the ear protection provided with the goggle system as designed and sold
by the manufacturer.



im sure theres more...i just dont want to contnue looking at all that txt.. lol.
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:56 PM #61
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What is the best method to go about wrapping the marker itself? Keep it in one piece then cut out on the accents or to take it apart completely? Any tricks on getting the lines to line up on the CF say from top to bottom half of the frame if you take it apart? And does the vinyl overlap on bottom or just meet? Sorry to fire so many questions, I want to try and do this right the first time haha
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:46 PM #62
digital sol
 
 
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I gotta agree, they dont look at all..

Not to mention its asking for something to happen with the fit of the fram to the bottoms ect..

Yes, these are not tournament legal, i didn't intend them to be, I only play rec these days. You cannot modify "ANY" part of the mask and expect to be able to use them in a tournament with the current rules. Its too much of a reliability to allow homemade mask in tournament settings. Rivets keep the bottoms very sturdy, they are steel rivets so that wont be an issue.
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:49 PM #63
digital sol
 
 
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What is the best method to go about wrapping the marker itself? Keep it in one piece then cut out on the accents or to take it apart completely? Any tricks on getting the lines to line up on the CF say from top to bottom half of the frame if you take it apart? And does the vinyl overlap on bottom or just meet? Sorry to fire so many questions, I want to try and do this right the first time haha
Start at the top and wrap it with 1 piece. The marker will need to be disassembled for this for sure, trim out the accents etc. It needs to wrap under the underside to prevent from lifting at the edges.
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