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Old 04-08-2013, 09:47 PM #1
Dirty J
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Relay Service Guide - Step by Step Instructions

With all the recent regulator disassembly questions I've seen, I figured I'd toss a quick little something together for those users that have the skills, but perhaps lack the confidence to take their Relay apart.

WARNING: If you are not highly experienced at the inner workings of paintball markers or you're one of the 1000's of people out there that seem to break everything you touch, do yourself a favor and do not attempt to take your reg apart.

Just give Paintball Solutions a call!

With that said... enjoy.

If you see any errors (I slapped this together in an hour), please let me know and I'll correct them.

If there's something that you'd like me to add - shoot me a message.

If you'd like a full PDF version of this and not images optimized for viewing on a computer screen, PM your email address.

Share as you like, I just ask that you give credit where it's due







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Last edited by Dirty J : 01-08-2014 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:10 PM #2
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:54 PM #3
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AWESOME GUIDE! I noticed my regulator piston has two BUNA (black) orings. The pictures I have seem here and the diagram have a black on the front of the reg and a clear looking one on the back. Whats the diff?

EDIT: Oh yeah....STICKYYYYYYYYYYYYY
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:56 PM #4
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Thanks !
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:03 AM #5
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I'll show y'all the bit I got from Grainger that I use to take the regulator pin housing out. It is a really good alternative in case you don't have a Dremmel to create a slot in a phillips head. Got my 3 mm nut driver from there too!
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:26 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncstatered21 View Post
AWESOME GUIDE! I noticed my regulator piston has two BUNA (black) orings. The pictures I have seem here and the diagram have a black on the front of the reg and a clear looking one on the back. Whats the diff?

EDIT: Oh yeah....STICKYYYYYYYYYYYYY
The rearward oring should be urethane.

If you're not having trouble, I wouldn't mess with it.

I assume urethane is used for better durability.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:29 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty J View Post

The rearward oring should be urethane.

If you're not having trouble, I wouldn't mess with it.

I assume urethane is used for better durability.
Well that sure is interesting. Both regulators I have tore into have black, which I assume is buna, orings at the back.

The latest one I tore into was brand new out of box (I like to make sure things are for sure lubed nicely)
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:40 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty J View Post

The rearward oring should be urethane.

If you're not having trouble, I wouldn't mess with it.

I assume urethane is used for better durability.
Do you lube ALL of your orings? Or just specific ones.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:54 AM #9
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Nice job, man.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:54 AM #11
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Great work man. Very well written.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:23 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncstatered21 View Post
Well that sure is interesting. Both regulators I have tore into have black, which I assume is buna, orings at the back.

The latest one I tore into was brand new out of box (I like to make sure things are for sure lubed nicely)
No idea my man. Both of my Axe's have a urethane on the rear. The spare parts from Boss also shows both types of orings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ncstatered21 View Post
Do you lube ALL of your orings? Or just specific ones.
I place a drop of oil on the pistion orings and the cam assembly orings. Reg seal goes in dry.

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Originally Posted by SNAKESNIPER View Post
Nice job, man.
Thank you. Thank you.

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Stuck. Nice work.
Means alot coming from you Simon. Thanks


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Originally Posted by blueshifty View Post
Great work man. Very well written.
I do this type of stuff all the time (in another industry). I even called up the guys at Blast, since they don't care to do manuals for their new stuff and offered to swap manuals for gear... no call back. Their loss
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:38 AM #13
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One thing I'd suggest is removing the lever and cam first. The cam housing on mine was binding to the reg pin housing and started to round out the slots. If you pull the cam then the entire part can spin and is just a little fail-safe to minimize the risk of rounding off the soft brass.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:40 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueshifty View Post
One thing I'd suggest is removing the lever and cam first. The cam housing on mine was binding to the reg pin housing and started to round out the slots. If you pull the cam then the entire part can spin and is just a little fail-safe to minimize the risk of rounding off the soft brass.
Fair enough. Hasn't been an issue with mine, but I can see that being possible.

We'll give a few days to see if there are any other recommendations/ideas and then I'll make a revision. (heading out for a business trip today also - so it'll be a few days until I have the time anyways).
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:29 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncstatered21 View Post
I'll show y'all the bit I got from Grainger that I use to take the regulator pin housing out. It is a really good alternative in case you don't have a Dremmel to create a slot in a phillips head. Got my 3 mm nut driver from there too!
I presume you are talking about something like this? Can you confirm the exact size you have?

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Old 04-09-2013, 09:56 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty J View Post
I presume you are talking about something like this? Can you confirm the exact size you have?

YEP! Didn't get to post it today. It is a spanner bit. I went to Grainger and they brought out the only one they had from the back. It was size #14 I believe. I took at look at it and eye balled it thinking it would work okay...I figured if it didn't I was only out $3. Happen to be the perfect size.

Got my 3 mm nut driver too.

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Old 04-09-2013, 10:05 PM #17
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Nice. Thanks for the update. I tried to locate the exact sizing of the various spanner sizes without success. I emailed one of the manufacturers, but have not heard back. Figured it would be one of the largest sizes. #14 was the largest I've seen.
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:14 PM #18
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Nice. Thanks for the update. I tried to locate the exact sizing of the various spanner sizes without success. I emailed one of the manufacturers, but have not heard back. Figured it would be one of the largest sizes. #14 was the largest I've seen.
Yeah. I assume the number is the width between the two prongs. Bigger the number=bigger the gap. So it looks like if you go any lower than #14 then it may not fit in the two holes.

I got real lucky i think
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Old 04-11-2013, 01:43 PM #19
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I just got this bit sizing information back from Irwin, a manufacturer of spanner bits:

#4 Bit is 2mm deep and 2 mm wide.
#6 Bit is 2.5mm deep and 2.4mm wide.
#8 Bit is 2.6mm deep and 2.4mm wide.
#10 Bit is 3.3mm deep and 3.5mm wide.
#12 Bit is 3.8mm deep and 2.2mm wide.
#14 Bit is 4.5mm deep and 3.0mm wide.

I'm no where near an Axe (on a business trip to Wisconsin), so you'll have to measure to see if only the #14 fits or of any of the others do too.
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Last edited by Dirty J : 04-11-2013 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:20 PM #20
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NC, in you're old thread you said it was a #14:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...4#post78411654
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Old 04-18-2013, 06:37 PM #21
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Just got in my #14 spanner bit today... perfect fit.
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