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Old 04-11-2013, 10:52 AM #1
Colreb
 
 
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Oxford, MS
Bazooka Upgrade Help

Hey guys,
I finally decided it was time to upgrade my first cannon and make the air chamber all metal. It used to be PVC with a tire valve at the end to fill it. This has sentimental value too, because this was the first cannon my dad and I built for my first scenario.

My dad and I have a game plan for the air chamber and a design, however, he came up with a cool idea that I was wondering if any of guys might have some suggestions on how to make it. I'll pick the best design for my cannon.

Here is my layout....

My barrel is 32in long with a 3/4in PVC female screw coupling that will go to a 3/4 male pvc nipple. The sprinkler valve is a N shaped Rain Birn soleniod valve. I'm going to be making my air chamber out of a fire extingusiher thanks to my friend BoomMaster. They really do make excellent air chambers. Anyway, my Rain Bird valve is 3/4 on both sides and my air chamber is 1/2in. I also have a 3/4 pressure relief valve 125psi that we got from Grainger. It's big and looks like a hand grenade or a flashbang. I also have my CP regulator that screws into my old Spyder ASA and those combined is over 6in long.

Here's what I need.....

My dad suggested using 2 galvenized T fittings from the air chamber to the valve that will be off set (1 for the gauge and the other for the pressure relif valve). I mean the gauge on the left side and pressure relif somewhere behind it. The other thought was a cross fitting and have the releif valve sitting on top between the air chamber and barrel.

The problem is where do I put my regulator and ASA? My dad came up with the idea to somehow strap the ASA/regulator to my tank and run a longer hose from that to the air chamber instead of having hook in directly. Only problem is, where do I put it and what type of hose do I run? My coiled remote runs of my tank, which is on my back. I have a Rap4 tactical 10 vest, would it be possible to maybe strap down the regulator/ASA with the tank so it's not bothered from regular play? Then I'd have a longer hose going to my cannon. Other problem is what do do with the remote hose that's already there? It's going to have a lot of extra length.

Ideas??? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Is it possible to buy a fiber wrapped hose without the tank connections on them? I know Ninja makes 1.
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Old 04-11-2013, 01:47 PM #2
Thunder-Tek
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denton,MD
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Can you draw a diagram of the layout you have and the one you want,from what I am reading there are several options I can think of.BTW how much did you pay for the sprinkler valve?Are you aiming for a certain look? pun intended.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:50 PM #3
Haz-Mat
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Location: San Antonio, TX
Use macroline and fittings like what's on paintball marker. Also I would change out your Pressure Relief valve with the smaller 1/4" ones it'll reduce your weight.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:00 AM #4
Boom Master
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You can mount the reg on the tank. Use the remote hose fittings. Use the ASA male and screw it right onto the air tank. Attach the reg via a nipple fitting. Screw the female ASA onto the reg. Then plumb the hose to the air chamber. You could use elbows and such to configure it to be more compact and less vunerable to being banged around. The downside is that your low pressure feed from the reg is going though some pretty small ports and hose diameters. They could be flow restrictions that could make your recharge time too long for your liking. But as long as your refill time is shorter than your ability to reload a nerf, then no problem. But if you used the output of the reg through a larger ID diameter hose, say 1/4" ID. then you would probably be OK.

Now what is the goal of putting the reg on the air supply. I'm guessing to reduce the carry weight in your hands. Why stop there? Put ALL the plumbing for the cannon on your back. All you really need is the trigger and barrel in your hand.

I've got a pic of one I made. Actually the first one I ever made. Can't upload it right now. Lighting fried our modem and I'm limping along on my neighbors wireless with one bar. Will post or e mail you the pic.

Back in the good old USA. Heading for the basement and garage this weekend and starting to BUILD some toys...
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:17 PM #5
Colreb
 
 
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Oxford, MS
Here are the blueprints my dad and I used. This will give you guys an idea of the design and what we have to work with. I'm terrible at drawing so this will be a better diagram.

http://corin.com/bill/paintball/aircannon/

For the pressure valve, we added a T fitting between the air chamber and valve with a 90 street elbow. The pressure relief would sit on top between the barrel and air chamber. I'm thinking about doing the same setup on the upgrade with all new metal fittings.

We used a tire valve to fill the air chamber and use a cigarette lighter air compressor used for car tires, bikes, blow up toys etc. It doesn't work too well and overheats because it's not made to handle that much output. Anyway, if you look at the diagram on the website I posted above, you will notice that everything is going to be the same except for the bottom part (air chamber). You will also notice that when I use the fire extinguisher, the air chamber will be much shorter than the barrel, possibly making my firing mechanism a little awkward since it's so close together.

I use a Rap4 tactical 10 vest that has my tank on the back and I'll run my remote hose to the CP regulator and quick disconnect. The reg is a little awkward since it is about 4-6in long, when screwed into the ASA. So my dad suggested mounting it on the tank and in my pack to get rid of the extra weight.

BoomMaster, I've seen your backpack design and really liked how you did all your plumbing in the back, however, for my current setup I don't think that will work very well since my tank is on my back. I want mine to be shoulder fired like it was before.

I want to reuse the sprinkler valve because it works and I've attached a cool little pigtail as a safety feature to open and close the valve from my doorbell switches, that is already attached to the valve itself. So, I'm only wanting to replace the air chamber.
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