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Old 03-25-2013, 10:58 PM #1
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Vcom One-Stop Info

Ok, first and foremost. If you are having an issue, PLEASE read through this first post thoroughly. That means watch every video, read every link, and try to skim the posts. I know skimming the posts can be daunting, but chances are your issue has been solved. If it hasn't been addressed, then by all means, post up. We have a solid group of VCOM owners in here that are more than willing to help.

BUT PLEASE DO NOT CLUTTER THIS THREAD WITH USELESS POSTS.
I'd like to keep this one as clean as is humanly possible for PbN.

Basics:

Rebuild Kit:
Link:
http://www.oringmonkey.com/product_i...oducts_id=1797 Via Steve M

Lube:
Spool:
Dow 33 (or equivalent) on ram and all o-rings/surfaces that interface with the ram that would normally get lube. Use Tri-Flow or other paintball gun oil on the bolt O-Rings. Use Dow 55 on the remainder of the o-rings. Via multiple sources

Poppit: Dow 55 on all o-rings, tri-flow or paintball gun oil on bolt

Settings:
Go here for various settings.
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...3#post78715743


Spool valve break down:
O-ring locations and sizes Via holson72. (big props for this one)


The first two pages of this thread show lots of break down pics of the spool engine.
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3947898&page

Video of 1st gen Spool Assembly (Bob Long version)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=YWTVNK6_fKs

2nd Gen Spool Maintenance video (Bob Long version)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=zC6fPtvp2n4



Leak issue fixes:

Troubleshooting: (READ THIS FIRST) (Via Holson72)
- Cycling/Firing issue with no leaks - Reset to LPR to 65-70 psi, dwell to 8 ms, and HPR to 155-ish psi. If you want to experiment after that, fine...just make sure the factory settings solve the issue.
- Leak from spool halves:
1) Turn LPR all the way down (turn screw out). If the leak went away, relube/replace the "006 or 007" o-ring. If you have an 006, go up one size to 007.
2) If the leak doesn't go away when the LPR is turned down, make sure the brass insert (on/off) is sitting straight, and relube/replace the 1x25mm and 1x4mm o-ring. Also if your engine doesn't have the 1x20mm o-ring, you might want to consider adding it.
- Leak that seems to be coming from solenoid/frame area - relube/replace 012 o-ring in brass insert (on/off). Also, for those who have the leak that goes away after a few shots...this is the culprit as well. Make sure you get grease inside the groove before putting the o-ring in.

Bob Long's 1st Gen Spool troubleshooting video (Via Nemesis2000_ent)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CL_S0UKPwk

BLAST's factory bulletin regarding loctiting the screw in the brass insert
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3952799

If you are leaking from the body, tear the engine down, HEAVILY LUBE the engine's sealing o-rings, make sure the brass insert is NOT crooked at all, and go from there.


Random Crap:

Some theory on why the body leaks if the screw on the brass piece is leaking/gone, and if the brass body isn't sitting right (snapped in)
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...4#post78566214

If your brass piece's pin falls out
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3954467

Installation tip for the 006 to 007 o-ring swap
Quote:
Originally Posted by chippified View Post
Also if you are having trouble with keeping the number 007 in when changing from the 006.
-Fill the oring holes with grease
-Put some grease on you thumb and push the orings down in the hole
-Insert the motor sideways while still pushing down on the 007 orings and turn the motor to its correct position while your thumb and marker change position of holding the orings in place
-now they are set
(you cannot push straight in while the motor is aligned because you may run into one of the orings falling into the back cap locking hole)

Post any relevant info, and corrections to my info and I will add it and adjust fire accordingly.

P.S. I may edit your posts, or just take links out of your posts. I'll give credit where credit is due, and only edit for sake of space, or simplicity. If this offends you, PM me and I'll make it right.

Last edited by Febo : 05-23-2013 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:25 PM #2
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1x25 oring is crucial for the sealing of the spool motor, remember to take it out and put lube in the oring's slot then put the oring in and put more lube on top of it. I figured out that this is whats causing most of the leaking issues.
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Old 03-26-2013, 11:23 AM #3
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For those purchasing a spool engine for an older victory (2012 ripper, v1, v2) be sure to transfer the oring behind the rammer over. Not the metric one but the one that sits directly on the rammer
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:39 PM #4
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Also if you have having trouble with keeping the number 007 in when changing from the 006.

Fill the oring holes with grease

Put some grease on you thumb and push the orings down in the hole

Insert the motor sideways while still pushing down on the 007 orings and turn the motor to its correct position while your thumb and marker change position of holding the orings in place

now they are set

(you cannot push straight in while the motor is aligned because you may run into one of the orings falling into the back cap locking hole
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:22 PM #5
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Great thread. Well done!
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:15 AM #6
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Regarding the Lube part where is says Dow 33 everywhere for the spool, this came from Terry59 on my thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry59 View Post
The fit with both engine sections is very exact, when all parts are in the right place, both engine section threads should bottom out when screwed together. Use Dow 55 everywhere but the blue ram and red bolt along wth the surfaces they interface, use Dow 33 or equivalent. When using 006 with the transfer ports, try Dow on both sides of the orings.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:45 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dominantgazelle View Post
For those purchasing a spool engine for an older victory (2012 ripper, v1, v2) be sure to transfer the oring behind the rammer over. Not the metric one but the one that sits directly on the rammer
What does this mean?
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:30 PM #8
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new spool engine settings are
Low pressure is 75-80
High pressure is 150
dwell is 8-10
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:33 PM #9
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LP sounds high, there are a bunch of people putting it as low as 60 and getting good results.
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:52 PM #10
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just putting what i heard from blast
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:07 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamesondemand View Post
What does this mean?
I was hoping someone would know, or those with the older Vics would just pick up on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime_0880 View Post
Regarding the Lube part where is says Dow 33 everywhere for the spool, this came from Terry59 on my thread:
So essentially Dow 55 for the body, and Dow 33 for the ram and internal o-rings. Correct?
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:08 PM #12
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I have an older vic and am just using the vcom engine, I didn't change any o-rings out and it worked great. Now I'm wondering if I should for some reason.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:14 PM #13
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If I don't get a clarification on it in a few days I'll take it out of the lead post. I don't want to concern people over something that isn't a concern.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:40 PM #14
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Me and Tim may have been talking about the wrong o-ring. I'll edit this post in a sec.


*sorry it's so big

Now, I was talking about the small circular but thick o-ring (I'll have to look at sizes when I get the chance) that sits on the back of the rammer in the poppit engine. I noticed there was not one on the back of the blue rammer. When I aired it up it seemed fine but per Tim in the text above I believe he said to transfer that o-ring over? Once again I'm not talking about the thin o-ring that sits in the nose looking indentation.

Also for pressures, I tried what BelowZero did and changed my dwell to 12 (from a stock of 6) and this allowed me to lower my lpr from the 70 that Tim mentioned down to about 55.

Last edited by dominantgazelle : 03-28-2013 at 11:47 PM.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:37 AM #15
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I still don't get what o-ring you're talking about. Pictures would be helpful.
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:31 AM #16
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Let me text Tim in the morning about it. I'll upload pics after class tomorrow. It seemed to air up fine without the o-rings which is why I asked Tim if it was needed. It might not have been and he may have thought I was just talking about the o-ring in sitting in the round shaped indent on the back plate.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:12 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Febo View Post
So essentially Dow 55 for the body, and Dow 33 for the ram and internal o-rings. Correct?


Yes sir. There are a few internal orings that only seal the two body halves that still use dow55. But basically as Terry59 said, dow33 on the red bolt and blue ram along with the few stationary o-rings that the ram and bolt pass thru while shooting and moving back and forth. And dow55 on everything else + everything external
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Old 03-29-2013, 09:32 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime_0880 View Post
Yes sir. There are a few internal orings that only seal the two body halves that still use dow55. But basically as Terry59 said, dow33 on the red bolt and blue ram along with the few stationary o-rings that the ram and bolt pass thru while shooting and moving back and forth. And dow55 on everything else + everything external
Fantastic, it does make sense as the poppet is Dow 55 for all o-rings, so why wouldn't the exterior and the non-dynamic sealing o-rings on the spool be treated the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dominantgazelle View Post
Let me text Tim in the morning about it. I'll upload pics after class tomorrow. It seemed to air up fine without the o-rings which is why I asked Tim if it was needed. It might not have been and he may have thought I was just talking about the o-ring in sitting in the round shaped indent on the back plate.
I'm still curious to know the outcome of this. Thanks for looking into it further.
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:21 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dominantgazelle View Post
Me and Tim may have been talking about the wrong o-ring. I'll edit this post in a sec.


*sorry it's so big

Now, I was talking about the small circular but thick o-ring (I'll have to look at sizes when I get the chance) that sits on the back of the rammer in the poppit engine. I noticed there was not one on the back of the blue rammer. When I aired it up it seemed fine but per Tim in the text above I believe he said to transfer that o-ring over? Once again I'm not talking about the thin o-ring that sits in the nose looking indentation.

Also for pressures, I tried what BelowZero did and changed my dwell to 12 (from a stock of 6) and this allowed me to lower my lpr from the 70 that Tim mentioned down to about 55.
It actually sounds like you're talking about a bumper oring that you may find in a poppit engine. In that case, you don't need this oring installed to make your spool engine work.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:34 PM #20
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My bad sorry for the misinformation. By the way what does everybody have their spire settings at? Because stock does not seem to pick up my spool engine.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:37 PM #21
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Stock.
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