*click on the picture*
Breech leak- To fix this you must determine whether the air bubble is coming from inside diameter of the bolt or the outer diameter of the bolt during when the bolt is at rest. Air bubble inside the bolt means your stem oring might be the issue if you're using stock bolt or if you're using TechT Bolt Engine, it will be the sail oring. Outside the bolt like in the video will be your breech oring and that oring is the one closest to the feed tube. This oring has more troubleshooting to do.
First clean your breech- i don't know how many times people posted on here and they cleaned their gun and the gun had no more leaks. First simpliest and cheapest troubleshooting to do- Clean.
Now if that dont work, take out the oring with a pick (preferably but be careful) or remove the feedneck and use a "dull" flat head screw driver that's use on a computer and remove it from the feedtube area. The oring could be really dirty, worn, damage or a wrong size. If everything is still not fix you may have a major issue. The outside diameter of the bolt could be scratched or gouged or it could even be the area where the oring sit was damage and you cant see it. You can't fix this one cause some inexperience oring picker gouge that area and now your screwed. Your gun just turn in to a paper weight.
Leak#2- Solenoid leak- There are plenty of youtube video's on any type of DP solenoid servicing and here is DP G4 Solenoid servicing
, DP G3 Solenoid
and if you cant remove the solenoid, tap it on the flat surface and it should pop off and come pretty easily close to be being out then use something small enough to pick it out. PLEASE DO NOT USE DP 40 or any DP lube. You will turn your gun in to a gunk manufacturer and it will cause more problems later. Please use Monkey poo, Slick honey, Techt Gun Sav, and other wonderful "Grease type" lube made for paintball you can think off other than DP 40 or johnson's baby oil. Video is pretty self explanatory
Leak#3- Back Cap Oring- Again, clean it first before you change any orings. If you cleane and change the oring and still no go, check for scratches or gouges. This area can be fixed with a very corse sand paper like something 1000 grit and above will do.
Leak#4- Macroline leak- It was leaking earlier before I made the video so ill cover it. Macrolines are tricky to troubleshoot because the hose are flexible and it's the area that's likely to get shot. You removing it and putting back while its dirty could cause it leak- First clean the macroline, inspect it reposition (rotate) and clean the fitting too from where it was connected at, inspect the fitting and reinstall the hose. If you changed the macroline hose and the oring is good and still no good. Turn the macroline around from the reg to the ASA end and switch the hose around from the ASA to the Regulator fitting. If the leak followed and now leaks at the reg macrofitting then change the macroline again, the hose is flexible and its probably not holding its wall sturdiness. If the leak didnt follow then you may have to disassemble the collet, clean and inspect it or change the whole fitting itself. Its pretty cheap so that should be ok. Most of the time (90%) you just change macroline and its good to go.
*USE MUST LET ANY OF THE CONNECTORS DRY BEFORE YOU INSTALL IT BACK TO THE BOARD AFTER DUNKING IT FROM THE WATER*
Preferably if you cleaning the whole gun, fully disassemble everything even the detents, solenoid and eye wires. I do this about every other month and you'll be suprise how much gunk builds up in your gun. That's about 12-15 cases for those who plays normally on the weekend.
And PLEASE do not use CO2 on your DP guns. The air source is not meant for the gun.
This should be your troubleshooting streamline- Clean, inspect, change minor part, inspect, replace major part. Hope it helps.
Here is the update:
I cleaned the whole breech and back cap area where the oring is (I didn't remove it) with the tooth brush. Cleaned and the noid with Dry Q-tip (got some yellow and green stuff out of there with some back gunk crap). After the Q-itp was in and out and its clean, I grab a new Q-tip, glove it with slick honey and plunge it in the housing. Sadly even though I cleaned the back cap breech area and got all the old residue paint out of there it's still leaking. Found out the the O-ring DP put in was a wrong size, it's a little smaller. Grab one on my kit and now the gun is good to go.
Now after a couple of hours trying to dry everything. I fired the marker and it seems to cycle pretty good. There's still water inside and that's ok cause I cleaned it off right a way. But! I just made sure that there is no water on the board area though (this is really important!)
I fired the marker again and again, degas the ASA and I'm now waiting for the whole marker to degas by itself. Why I do this you ask? Cause if the marker Degas by itself with in one minute, you have a leak somewhere that is not visible externally and that's usually internal which is cause by a weak regulator (worn reg seat, worn reg piston oring or worn shimms).
How to find out if you have an internal leak is to air up the marker then degas it leave the marker sitting for a while with the ASA fully out (degas). Let it sit for about two hours or more to see if the pressure is holding together. If not attached a pressure gauge on to a spare ASA and attach it to your HPR, like so in the picture. If the HPR pressure is creeping up then you have an internal leak. Check the piston lip where it sits on the reg seat, if there is no damage, time to change the reg seat or ghetto fix it by sanding it with 2000 grit paper. Do it slow and even (be very very flat) and you have to keep doing it till the gouges are gone (be very gentle). This actually does work and saves you some little cash.