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Old 03-20-2013, 03:57 PM #1
new ion?
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Karnivor cocking troubles

So I bought this Karnivor and it doesn't cock reliably.

I've cranked the LPR up all the way, turned up the HPR to make sure it wasn't starving the LPR, adjusted the lug height... and I can manually cock it but it doesn't cock properly when just cycling.

The LPR almost seems like it's not outputting a high enough pressure as I can still easily pull the bb back and cock it. I was going to strip the LPR.. but I don't have any needle nose pliers. Can buy some if needed.

does anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this? I'm going to play on saturday and would LOVE to play with this.

Also, the top of the reg is jammed on the FB. the little spacer is CRANKED on there... I don't have a strap wrench. Is there any way to get it off?

Thanks for all the help
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Old 03-20-2013, 04:10 PM #2
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sounds like your cocking rod may be loose.
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Old 03-20-2013, 05:11 PM #3
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Take the bolt out (sometime o-rings swell and cause drag) and try it and put a new battary it it even if you have new one in it and buy a good brand. Check to see how far th IVG (velocity screw) is in might be to much pressure on springs. Try it with the back handle screw out might be to long catching hammer.
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:08 PM #4
new ion?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demented pumper View Post
sounds like your cocking rod may be loose.
What cocking rod? it's a Karnivor

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Originally Posted by Reddawg View Post
Take the bolt out (sometime o-rings swell and cause drag) and try it
bolt slides just fine... actually the Orings could use some swelling. they seem pretty pointless right now.

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Originally Posted by Reddawg View Post
and put a new battary it it even if you have new one in it and buy a good brand.
What does a battery have to do with LPR pressure? the first thing that should be going if a battery is low is the sear noid.

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Originally Posted by Reddawg View Post
Check to see how far th IVG (velocity screw) is in might be to much pressure on springs.
3 threads, just like my P/S

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Originally Posted by Reddawg View Post
Try it with the back handle screw out might be to long catching hammer.
If I can pull the BB back and have it cock, I don't think this is an issue...
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:50 PM #5
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What does a battery have to do with LPR pressure? the first thing that should be going if a battery is low is the sear noid.
If battery is weak it won't open solniod long enough to cock. You said you adjust LPR.
What cocking rod? it's a Karnivor. The thread piece to BB is a cocking rod. if out of adjustment it will not pull hammer back far enough to catch.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:08 PM #6
new ion?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddawg View Post
If battery is weak it won't open solniod long enough to cock. You said you adjust LPR.
I tried with a fresh battery just because, and no difference.

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Originally Posted by Reddawg View Post
The thread piece to BB is a cocking rod. if out of adjustment it will not pull hammer back far enough to catch.
The thing is, on a Karni it's not really adjustable. Not like a regular cocking rod at least.

However, it's threaded in as far as it will go. any other change would have to be to the pump arm/back block.. I've threaded it back one thread so far, and no real improvement.

on the times that it doesn't cock, the ram seems to move very slowly (eyes on, no paint... attempting to get a long bolt open time and the bb as far back as possible)

pushing the button on the cocking noid gives a nice crisp actuation like it should go.
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And I think that if you think something is bull****, you have every right to say you think it is. Just because bull**** is the norm doesn't mean it stinks any less.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:33 PM #7
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Have you tried lubing through the LPR so the 'noid gets some oil, or raising the CON time?
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:36 PM #8
new ion?
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CON is ignored when the eye is on correct?

and I'm embarrased to say I don't know if I own any oil... I'll have to check later (I JUST cleaned my room up for tonight's study sesh)
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And I think that if you think something is bull****, you have every right to say you think it is. Just because bull**** is the norm doesn't mean it stinks any less.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:19 PM #9
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CON is ignored when the eye is on correct?

and I'm embarrased to say I don't know if I own any oil... I'll have to check later (I JUST cleaned my room up for tonight's study sesh)
No, CON is the time the cocking 'noid is activated, CTO which is the time the blind mode waits for balls to drop (see what I did there?), is ignored when eyes are on.

And you WILL be better off getting needle nose pliers, they help with a host of older markers.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:29 PM #10
new ion?
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I've adjusted the CON to 100 ms... I've tried classic. Nothing.

One interesting thing is that when I turned up the HPR (just as a check again that I wasn't starving the LPR) the 'closed' side of the ram LPR hose blew off... both times. Really starting to think the LPR is messed...
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And I think that if you think something is bull****, you have every right to say you think it is. Just because bull**** is the norm doesn't mean it stinks any less.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:35 PM #11
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Try rebuilding the LPR and oiling the whole marker, sometimes the LPR core seat o'ring likes to unseat if the HP side pressure's too high.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:37 PM #12
new ion?
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I started with a 0'd HPR lol... IDK about what happened before I got it though.

I think this Karni is going to turn into a serious money pit for me.

I mean... I'll probably end up grabbing a SCM, an MQ...(already have a 2 liter....) then it'll be an ego frame (or maybe a UL?!)... then yea...
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And I think that if you think something is bull****, you have every right to say you think it is. Just because bull**** is the norm doesn't mean it stinks any less.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:48 PM #13
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I don't know what board you have in there but i would reset to factory setting if that doesn't work, rebuild the lpr, press the orange button on the 4 way and see if it fully cocks, clean out the 4way. maybe your pump arm is adjusted to tightly
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:50 PM #14
new ion?
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Not the pump arm - I've tried a couple different things.

It's not the lug either... the bb doesn't seem to be coming far enough back.

pushing the button makes it cock. (as stated earlier)

E2 board.

Going to start with the LPR then I'll go to the cocking noid.
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Jack Wood:
And I think that if you think something is bull****, you have every right to say you think it is. Just because bull**** is the norm doesn't mean it stinks any less.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:04 AM #15
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Maybe it's just missing a little oil, they like to act up when they're dry. You might also want to look at rebuilding the ram, make sure to get a soft strap wrench or wrap the ram body in a few layers of electrical tape on the side closest to the threaded part and then use a vise grip on that section. and if I may, I like the way ego frames look better than UL frames.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:13 AM #16
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Oh yeah forogt one thing lately I've been using the rubber side of a mousepad to grip things if you wanna try that with your reg.
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:45 AM #17
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have you tried resetting it back to fact fast/med. had this issue with mine and a buddies recently, reset board, fixed the issue.
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Old 03-21-2013, 02:47 AM #18
new ion?
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Oh yeah forogt one thing lately I've been using the rubber side of a mousepad to grip things if you wanna try that with your reg.
*runs out and buys mousepad*

THANK YOU

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have you tried resetting it back to fact fast/med. had this issue with mine and a buddies recently, reset board, fixed the issue.
tried fast... haven't tried med. it's a karni... medium shouldn't be the right setting.

however, I DID try upping the CON ridiculously.
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Jack Wood:
And I think that if you think something is bull****, you have every right to say you think it is. Just because bull**** is the norm doesn't mean it stinks any less.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:51 AM #19
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Have you done a full taredown of the gun yet? I can't tell you how many issues i've solved by just taking a gun apart and cleaning it. Valves in backwards, teflon tape jamming the ram...i've seen it all.
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Old 03-21-2013, 10:31 AM #20
new ion?
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Unfortunately I haven't gotten to that... I don't have any oil or any time.
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Jack Wood:
And I think that if you think something is bull****, you have every right to say you think it is. Just because bull**** is the norm doesn't mean it stinks any less.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:37 PM #21
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you can run to a local store and pick up some 3 in 1 air tool oil for dirt cheap if you dont have any. its what i use on all my cockers and was reccomended in the wgp manual anyway.

it does seem like it might be the lpr, but when you push the button on the noid and say it works fine that almost makes me think the lpr is fine and somethings up with the noid....maybe the little spool inside is dry and sticking.

so id try giving it a generous amount of oil and cycle it as much as you can. should be able to get it to work by pushing the button at least.

ics rod should be threaded all the way into the back block.

hammer lug should be adjusted so it releases halfway through the sear solenoids travel. you can take the grip off and slowly push on the sear noids plate to see where it releases at.

but if your fairly sure the hammer lug is set right, im betting lpr or cocking noid is wonky.

lpr should come apart like any other newer wgp lpr, tickler just has a knob on it:

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