I made a cylinder of aluminium, bigger in one end and smaler in the other. On the small side i could fit the eyepipe and having a threaded hole on the end i could secure the eypipe with a washer.
I put the thicker end in the hub of the lathe and could make the groove for the eyepipe wider. Then i took a round file to enlarde the holes slightly and the detents was secured by using a small circlip.
That is how I did, but it did not maka a big difference.
Since the general breach area works for the DM series I believe that the dimensions and spacing are not the problem on the NT.
In some I have noticed that the detents make a bit more resistance than other. It may be problems with the rubber assembly thing for the eyes causing these problems.
I think in some rare cases the detents might cause cracking of brittle balls as due to the bolt speed. I am waiting for an approval at work to purchase a new high speed camera ( phantom miro 310) which I want to use to measure bolt speed of DM, NT, PMR and EGO to make som comparisson.
I might try to make som isolated tests to get some mor info on how balls crack... no pun intended.
Have you guys any other ideas?
I hade som ideas of how to use the GEO3 soft bolt tip but it is verry tricky and involves moving the bolt back, shortening plunger rod and using revere airflow through the solenoid. It will also only work on NT10 because of the diference in machining of the NT11 valve and back cap. ( Bakc cap is narrower on the sealing surface) machining on the inside of the NT11 valve part is also horribly unsmoth...
Originally Posted by Blusylver
quit trying to make yourself sound smart.
I do like the idea of moving the eyes back a little, how is the feedneck spacer held in place?