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Old 01-17-2004, 09:24 PM #22
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Im outa air haha, guess this is gonna have to wait til tomorrow?

I got to 300 and it just seems that its outa air, like it sputters wit less sputter, kinda like it needs even more air to recock.
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Old 01-17-2004, 09:29 PM #23
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dont know call dragun for real they will help you they know what they are doin and know how it should be set up
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Old 01-17-2004, 09:35 PM #24
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I emailed them. Waitin for a response.
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Old 01-17-2004, 09:48 PM #25
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TES striker wont work, you need a Black Dragun/DragunFire Striker. The TES striker was redesigned and may not work properly. The lower the pressure you go, the more likely you will run into recock issues, since you dont have the exact setup of the origional one, thats why your not getting the exact results. I spoke with one of the DE Techs about this awhile back, just because all of them have the same setups, none of them were exactly alike in performance, its so mething you have to experiment with to get right.

On a side note, I emailed them last week, no response. Calling them will be faster, but they arent there on the weekends.

set your pressure to about 500 psi, then get a heavy mainspring, and a light valve spring. Once its together, start lowering your reg pressure until it wont recock, then bump it up to about 100 psi over, this will be a safety zone. I had my BD down to 380 psi at 280 fps with a +/- 5 fps when it was setup for LP. I went down to about 325 psi, but couldnt get the velocity over 250 fps, but it still shot.

Last edited by [NA]WARLORD : 01-17-2004 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 01-17-2004, 09:59 PM #26
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But I have the AKA Tornadoe Valve. These markers ran stock at 250psi. My reg is higher flowin then the AKA one was, I have the same LP Chamber, my valve is the same, and my bolt is open faced so that basically the same! I dont get it at all! I guess Tuesday I will have to give em a call?
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:09 PM #27
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LIKE I SAID, lol, just because you have the essentials or better, results will vary. You have to fine tune each and every one of them. Also, I heard they ran them at 350 - 400 psi because when they went lower, they had velocity issues. One of the Techs got his down to 250 fooling around with it, but thats not what they shot them at. I will do some reaserch, if its still here, I will post it for you.
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:15 PM #28
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Thanx a lot man. The 250psi thing I got was wat Dye told me...
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:30 PM #29
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Here is the post on the origional price, just a FYI type of thing:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...sted+%2BDragun

Pic of an origional Twisted Dragun M3 Factory marker:

http://www.pbnation.com/attachment.p...postid=1113298

Twisted Dragun on APG cover:

http://www.cfw2.com/assets/images/si...4_03COVVER.GIF

Sorry, no luck on finding that post. Also, kind of gave up due to eye fatigue. Type Twisted Dragun in the search field, then go to the forum selection and select Dragun/M3 to narrow it down. I came up with 3 pages.

Quote:
Originally posted by SpyderClone
Thanx a lot man. The 250psi thing I got was wat Dye told me...
He wasnt lying, one guy did mess with them and got it down to 250 psi, but most of the Factory guys ran them higher due to recocking and velocity issues.
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:35 PM #30
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Thanx a lot NA, couldnt ask for nethin more. I'll look into the pressure thing and see if I can fix this thing to get it working!

In the future this bad boy might need an ACE or new board!

Im waitin for the sticky grips (clear would look hot) and the new clampin feednecks, the adapter piece so I can put a Imp No Rise on it.

Do u know how many were made in Blue to White fade like mine?
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Old 01-17-2004, 10:50 PM #31
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I looked through a lot of em and found no operatin pressure, all I found was some flame wars by u .
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:11 PM #32
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i was thinkin maybe you should go with the one kit on it, i believe iwarlord said it last night, that way you got smothin new with somethin old, and an eye, and this will prolly fix all your problems
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:16 PM #33
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No $$$ and doesnt that require a new frame?
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:22 PM #34
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Id rather not b/c it comes with a new frame which wont look right on mine cuz of the anno and everything. I just wanna get this thing shootin right, get grips, feedneck, new gauge, and a new drop and Im done. Possibly ACE in the future.
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:26 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpyderClone
Do u know how many were made in Blue to White fade like mine?
That I couldnt tell you.

Quote:
Originally posted by SpyderClone
I looked through a lot of em and found no operatin pressure, all I found was some flame wars by u .
Guilty , lol !!!!!!! But they deserved it.

Quote:
Originally posted by SpyderClone
No $$$ and doesnt that require a new frame?
$$$$ is always an issue, but it comes with a Black Frame, and that couls always be annoed to match your gun as well as the other parts it comes with. The only thing that would be different is the low pressure chamber on the front, but you could have it stripped and polished, but then again, that takes $$$$$ !

Last edited by [NA]WARLORD : 01-17-2004 at 11:30 PM.
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Old 01-18-2004, 12:01 AM #36
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I would be very happy if I can just get this thing to recock and work correctly. I have every other upgrade u can get for it/Spyders. So when u got the best of the best essentially the only thing left to do is move onto bigger and better things, DM4 DM4 DM4!!!
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Old 01-18-2004, 11:58 AM #37
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talk about no money and you want one of the most expencive guns if not the most, although i bet it kicks a**
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Old 01-18-2004, 12:31 PM #38
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I have a love for upgradin and makin me own thign if u couldnt tell and I also have a love for owning the best things. My marker now is almost done so then it goes onto the best of the best. Nothin and I mean nothin compares to Dye stuff. Even their gloves, tank covers, hell even barrel condoms are GOD LIKE, Ive never seen nethin built soo solid and with such quality in my life. The Rhino Covers have built in shock abosbers in the back to keep ur tank snug along with little rubber nipples on the insdie also to keep ur tank cover from sliding around. Dye rulz once and for all.
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Old 01-18-2004, 12:37 PM #39
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Back to my recockin issues... Last nite I tried the setup with two differen valve springs, stock Kingman one, and a pretty light one that comes with the Maddmann Spring Kit. I didnt really notice ne difference. I have a pretty hard valve spring that came with my body and internals, I know the internals were all switched, well valve and bolt atleast, (dont think this all derlin bolt is a Lightnin Bolt, although I do have the original Cockin Knob). I was wonderin which would help the marker recock easier, I know the harder the valve spring the less velocity/shortest push of air and the lighter the valve spring the bigger push of air. I was wonder which would help reock the marker easier? Im gonna assume a harder valve spring since it would push the striker back harder off the valve pin?
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Old 01-18-2004, 01:30 PM #40
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a harde one would and the lighter main, if you go with the light valve spring go with a hard main

Quote:
Nothin and I mean nothin compares to Dye stuff. Even their gloves, tank covers, hell even barrel condoms are GOD LIKE
could not agree more, look at my name and sig, but a DM4 is 1500 bucks, although a max-flow tank is prolly better then the dyes
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Old 01-18-2004, 01:47 PM #41
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Ah for air I'll always use a Crossfire tank like mine. They recharge very fast, 5 year rehydro, never break, wat else could u ask for?

Wait so me usin a hard valve spring and a light main spring will reock easier?

And a light valve spring and a hard main spring will help recock easier?

I know if I were to use a light valve and a heavy main that would crakn the **** outa my psi.
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Old 01-18-2004, 01:52 PM #42
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those setups are known to work best, and all LP draguns ive seen most have a hard valve and weak main.
as for the air thing right now my bulldog is awsome, and when i went to mardi gras last year i put it in crossfire's demo and it was the sam recharge rate as thiers so it is just as good
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