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Old 03-10-2013, 10:43 PM #43
demented pumper
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whats your lpr set at? how many shims forgot to ask you that earlier.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:12 AM #44
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It doesn't really matter what the LPR is set at. He should remove every single shim since it is not needed to cycle the bolt now. The amount of shims is different on every gun out there. You need to use the gauge to really figure out where the LPR is at.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:33 AM #45
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Lpr? Gauge? Huh?


LOL I don't speak angel
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:43 AM #46
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LPR = Low Pressure Regulator.

In order to read the LPR pressure you need a gauge adapter that screws into the gun in place of the end cap on the LPR/valve/ram side of the gun.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:32 AM #47
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Quote:
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LPR = Low Pressure Regulator.

In order to read the LPR pressure you need a gauge adapter that screws into the gun in place of the end cap on the LPR/valve/ram side of the gun.
lol i know what an lpr is

didnt realize thats where it was/that it was built in

what psi range does it have?
i have a couple extra aluminum volly caps i made... i'll drill/tap one for a gauge
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:10 AM #48
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usually sub 100psi. but i have gotten angels that were set to high. kill-n-spree said his was below 50 if im not mistaken.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:29 PM #49
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86 psi is ideal for the LCD. With all shims removed, you should probably be somewhere around 60 psi (it varies).
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:55 PM #50
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Quote:
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86 psi is ideal for the LCD. With all shims removed, you should probably be somewhere around 60 psi (it varies).
sounds great

i'll get a volly cap drilled/tapped for a gauge and see where im at
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:01 PM #51
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your best bet on rotobreach hinge pins is fixmyangel.com
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:55 AM #52
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Hey , your a machinist . Make one. It's fairly common to find stock and cut to size. I wanna see you keep thinking out side da box!!!
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:16 AM #53
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i have a set of pins, just havent had time to shoot pictures. trying to get caught up today
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:37 AM #54
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bought my pins from fix my angel...

overpriced, yes
but worth it so i dont have to fight with it? ya...

just a little more fine tuning, then she is ready to go to ano!

i need to put a stop to keep the pump handle from falling off when im switching from pump to semi (for demonstrations)
andddd i think thats all it really needs

hopefully, as long as my back is feeling better, i will play saturday, then tear it down and ship it monday
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:41 PM #55
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So your not going to engineer stops to keep the bolt or bolt pin from beating the gun apart? It is pretty easy and allows you to precisely adjust the front to back travel. It is going to be pretty clanky and not last very long otherwise.

Not sure why your pump handle would come off while switching to semi. Could you explain how that works. New anno should look real nice.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:20 PM #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kill-n-spree View Post
So your not going to engineer stops to keep the bolt or bolt pin from beating the gun apart? It is pretty easy and allows you to precisely adjust the front to back travel. It is going to be pretty clanky and not last very long otherwise.

Not sure why your pump handle would come off while switching to semi. Could you explain how that works. New anno should look real nice.
it wasnt any clankier than a pump cocker...
its not going to beat itself apart... i have halfblock cockers that go through hell, and still look fine, i doubt this would have an issue


when you switch to semi (take the bolt pin and hook it back into the semi hammer) the pump hammer has nothing to hold it in place, so it will slide all the way forward, which will let the handle slide off the guide arm

if i had made a longer pump hammer, or a pump arm bushing that went deeper into the gun, it could combat it, but the easiest solution is to throw a setscrew to limit the extreme forward travel
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:04 PM #57
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just checked my LPR pressure... 120psi

is there an easy way to get the LPR out without having to take EVERYTHING out? orrrr??

so the plan is to pull all the shims out?
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:21 PM #58
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For adjusting the LPR, the only thing you need to remove is the end cap. You can then use an M2.5 screw to thread into the LPR piston and pull it out. The spring stack and shims will come with it. Each shim should represent roughly 5-7 psi. The spring stack arrangement should be: ) ( ) (
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:48 PM #59
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LPR is at 85psi

its ()() on the shim stack
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:57 PM #60
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You should correct the spring stack and re-check pressure. Having it out of order can produce different pressures and also affect consistency.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:03 PM #61
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corrected it to )()( and its at 105psi now?
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:17 PM #62
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Any more shims to remove?

You could theoretically use the other spring stack arrangement as long as you aren't experiencing any shootdown issues. But the stock configuration should be the baseline. If your pressure is that high with the stock spring configuration and you have no shims in there, your LPR main seal likely needs replacing (which sadly entails replacing the entire LPR).
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:21 PM #63
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Quote:
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Any more shims to remove?

You could theoretically use the other spring stack arrangement as long as you aren't experiencing any shootdown issues. But the stock configuration should be the baseline. If your pressure is that high with the stock spring configuration and you have no shims in there, your LPR main seal likely needs replacing (which sadly entails replacing the entire LPR).
0 shims is 30psi
4 shims )()( is 105psi

i only have 4 shims

soooo?
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