[Vitalsilence428]

So I m a machinist and I notice that the g3 bolt is pretty heavy compared to the g4. I would imagine that this is in part because the g4 is machined further down the bolt so there is less material. Would it make since to machine the extra material out from the inside of the bolt to make it lighter, lower my dwell, and get a little less kick. Has anyone done this or thought of this?

[GraniteGargoyle]

Originally Posted by Vitalsilence428

So I m a machinist and I notice that the g3 bolt is pretty heavy compared to the g4. I would imagine that this is in part because the g4 is machined further down the bolt so there is less material. Would it make since to machine the extra material out from the inside of the bolt to make it lighter, lower my dwell, and get a little less kick. Has anyone done this or thought of this?

Would that make it too big to properly seal on the stem?

[CA_Tectonics]

Originally Posted by Vitalsilence428

So I m a machinist and I notice that the g3 bolt is pretty heavy compared to the g4. I would imagine that this is in part because the g4 is machined further down the bolt so there is less material. Would it make since to machine the extra material out from the inside of the bolt to make it lighter, lower my dwell, and get a little less kick. Has anyone done this or thought of this?

Originally Posted by GraniteGargoyle

Would that make it too big to properly seal on the stem?

This ^^^ .

The inner diameter of the bolts in stock form are necessary for sealing of the backcap stem o-ring and keeping all that air in the back end of the marker ready to dump out through the bolt when the bolt moves far enough off that backcap stem.

As far as weight differences, my guess is that the G3 bolts may be thicker in order to have enough material to construct the o-ring grooves. Since the G4 bolt is o-ringless, that bolt can be as thin as possible as long as is it kept strong enough so it doesn't collapse on itself.

[firefoxx04]

you could try machining the venturie(sp?) out (front half that does not seal on the stem oring)

and then do this mod

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3028790


Making the bolt just open face has not worked well in the past.. to much turbulence. the sharpie mod makes sense and should actually work well. you could figure something out instead of using an actual sharpie.

removing weight only works to a point. dwell wont be affected much. the stock bolt works well at 12-14ms but not as well anything lower. The techt engine tends to like 10-12ms and 8ms in some cases.

[Vitalsilence428]

Originally Posted by firefoxx04

you could try machining the venturie(sp?) out (front half that does not seal on the stem oring)

and then do this mod

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3028790


Making the bolt just open face has not worked well in the past.. to much turbulence. the sharpie mod makes sense and should actually work well. you could figure something out instead of using an actual sharpie.

removing weight only works to a point. dwell wont be affected much. the stock bolt works well at 12-14ms but not as well anything lower. The techt engine tends to like 10-12ms and 8ms in some cases.

This is what I m say I should have clarified I m not touching the back half of the bolt where the cap seals, just the front half where the Venturi is. Make it like a g4 where the Venturi face is maybe .100" thick

[firefoxx04]

I cant say that that would hurt.. i mean the g4 shoots pretty consistently.

the original techt bolt hurt performance sometimes.. and it was open face and very light.

Ive been wanting to try the pen cap mod on a g4 bolt.

[Vitalsilence428]

I can drill and tap the end of the cap and machine a "nose" piece to be the same size and shape as the sharpie. Also I would not completely remove the venturi face I would machine it from the back and leave a face on it

[AndrewTheWookie]

Sounds like you'll end up similar to the NDZ G4 back cap they tried. I don't know what came of it, or if anyone actually used one, but having that "ramp" off the bolt plug would probably help.

[firefoxx04]

i have not read ANTYTHING on the ndz backcap, it should work well in theory. Ive been thinking of ways to make the g5 bolt better than stock but i lack a g5 or the time

Originally Posted by Vitalsilence428

I can drill and tap the end of the cap and machine a "nose" piece to be the same size and shape as the sharpie. Also I would not completely remove the venturi face I would machine it from the back and leave a face on it

yes! And while your at it, machine the backcap to accept a small gauge? Its been done before and works well.