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Old 02-19-2013, 03:30 PM #1
cckynv
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New to cockers, looking for tuning help

Howdy! So I recently got a WGP 03 Prostock cocker. It's my first cocker, and I'm completely new to tuning and teching them: my only previous marker was a Spyder MR100. Can I get some tips or links to some helpful guides on how to tune them? I'd love to have this beast primed and ready for the weekend.

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Old 02-19-2013, 05:29 PM #2
Dk-79
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In the full length of the trigger pull, two things have to happen. First, the sear has to drop the hammer, and then the three way rod has to actuate the three way to shuffle air to the ram, which recocks the gun.

First step is to set the sear. You want it to drop the hammer somewhere at the front of the trigger pull, but not too close to the front that the safety wont work, or that it becomes unreliable.

The little hole at the top of the body is the lug access. The lug uses a 1/8th inch allen key. Loosening the lug will make the hammer drop sooner in the pull, tightening it will move it toward the rear.

Once you like where the hammer drops, it's time for the actuating point. I usually just eyeball the three way shaft at first by looking up through the front of the three way. With a hinge, you'll want to see the first three way hole sitting just in front of the three way shaft. With a slider frame, the three way shaft should sit just in front of the hole, covering it from view.

Once you've got it eyeballed close, fine tuning it is done through the collar. You loosen the 1/16th allen key set screw on the rear of the collar. With a hinge frame, extending the actuating rods overall length will make the three way actuate sooner in the pull.

With a slider frame, shortening the pull will make the three way actuate sooner in the pull.

Generally, a fairly reliable run of the mill trigger pull will look something like [-F--R-]. F for fire, R for recock, the brackets are start and finish.

Suction timing, is setting the firing point close enough to the recocking point that there is both enough time for the hammer to hit the valve fully, but recocks fast enough to allow the paintball moving through the barrel to cause suction in the feedneck. Actually sucking the next paintball into the chamber. It's not impossible, but takes about a thousand one millimeter collar and lug adjustments.

Should also mention that hinge frames have a sear stop on the inside of the grip frame cutout, at the top of the hole. Usually a 5/32 allen key. It's for adjusting the overall trigger travel.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:52 PM #3
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Thanks for the info. I'll read over all of this and try and follow your advice as best as possible. Cockers are complicated!
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:11 PM #4
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I also write like a jackass, but I'm just trying to be clear.

If there's something that I didn't get out right or what have you, just let me know and I'll try to explain it a little better.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:44 PM #5
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I have a question not wholly related to cocker tuning, but something that deals with my cocker anyways. When I air the marker up and screw the ASA in (it's an on/off), I can hear and feel a small amount of air escaping from the macroline fitting that goes into the forward grip. What can I do about this?
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:09 PM #6
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Try a new fresh cut piece of macroline and/or a new macroline fitting. Seal the fitting threads with Teflon tape. That should fix your problem. Any one of those 3 things could be it, or all 3 could be it.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:11 PM #7
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Also, check the customcockers.com forum, in the "autococker specific forums" > "autococker articles" section. Lots of great info there.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:31 PM #8
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If the line is long, use a razor to cut it nice and square. Using dykes or crappy clippers will only mash and deform the end which makes it seal bad.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:04 PM #9
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I watched youtube vidoes to learn how to time my cocker.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:05 PM #10
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The small o-ring inside the macro fitting is replaceable. Try new macroline first, but I've seen the o-rings go bad or go missing.

Last edited by Oldandsneaky : 02-20-2013 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:58 PM #11
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http://web.archive.org/web/200702231...ech/timing.htm
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:15 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dk-79 View Post
Once you like where the hammer drops, it's time for the actuating point. I usually just eyeball the three way shaft at first by looking up through the front of the three way. With a hinge, you'll want to see the first three way hole sitting just in front of the three way shaft. With a slider frame, the three way shaft should sit just in front of the hole, covering it from view.
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I'm not following you. 3-way hole?

Jay
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:30 PM #13
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If you look into the front of the three way, you'll be able to see the face of the three way shaft. You should also be able to see the hole of the forward most barb sitting just barely in front of it. At least with hinges, that forward most barb hole should be covered if you've got a slider frame.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:37 AM #14
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Got what you're saying. Thanks.

Jay
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