[jeepmiller09]

Before i even start looking into changing the color of my marker just wanted to know if it is OK to do or will it mess anything up?


Thanks
Miller

[DVC_Hicks]

Depends on the body I guess...

[gamer565]

What marker is this for?

Aftermarket anodizing voids the warranty.

[martix_agent]

if it's a g6r, it'll fubar the tolerances.

[jeepmiller09]

No its a gen 3 so I am sure its out of warranty

[DVC_Hicks]

then you should be good to go. enjoy your new color scheme!

[jeepmiller09]

I have not figured out the scheme yet I am going with dark red and black. Not sure who to go with to have it done either.

[martix_agent]

gonna do an acid wash?

[lopez17]

You'll be alright with the Gen3's and earlier. Unless it's been anodized once before, it should stand up to being stripped and reanodized.

[minimag03]

Are the G6R's tolerances really so touchy that it cannot be reanodized by a professional? I would imagine that swelling effect of the dow55 could make up most of the differences in the ram and regs.

[Achilles_21]

yeah be careful with the ram sleeve. sometimes they take it down to much and u just get a leaky gun after takes a lot of time to get it going right again.

[KGBbonecrusher]

I just got my G6R done. I don't understand why everyone says not to. Go to a respectable place and you'll be fine. There's no way the tolerances are that tight, otherwise you'd have issues just switching orings. There's been tons of G6R's done. Like ANY anno job you run a risk of destroying the gun, sure.

[minimag03]

Originally Posted by KGBbonecrusher

I just got my G6R done. I don't understand why everyone says not to. Go to a respectable place and you'll be fine. There's no way the tolerances are that tight, otherwise you'd have issues just switching orings. There's been tons of G6R's done. Like ANY anno job you run a risk of destroying the gun, sure.

This was how I understood it. All of Bob Longs anodizing is type II, which doesn't add much if any thickness to the aluminum. I figured it shouldn't be a problem unless the stripping process was done totally wrong.

[Tabris17]

The thing is with tolerances is that unless you are going to sit there with a print of the marker and essentially QC every hole and chamfer, you're not going to know what it is.
If something was run on the low side and then suddenly you strip it, it's under tolerance. If it gets a poor anodize or even a quality and it doesn't build up properly, you're still under tolerance. Or you could go the other way and suddenly be way over tolerance.
Markers that run internal air paths have a high risk of leaking from the asa/frame or frame/body because of the design. Generally they're small o-rings that hold them in place as well. So if you mess with the tolerances that may be one way or the other, you're going to mess up your marker.
You don't know if Bob is running his tolerances +/- .002 or +/- .0005 for instance unless you're staring at his prints. Being in machining myself sometimes you have to split the difference and run things on the low side or high side depending on what the machine is doing with the material and tooling on hand. I'm running a job at work that's +/- .002 on a location and sometimes it goes a few tenths above that. Technically it's wrong but at the same time I know if I start moving positions again like I was I'm out .006 in some cases. So you split the difference at times.

[minimag03]

Type II anodizing's thickness is usually between (0.00007" to 0.001"), with 0.001" being VERY, VERY rare. And I honestly think the Dow 55 could account for any tolerances issues, even at 0.001". I think you would be safe to have your gun anodized if you can replace the orings and it doesn't leak before the Dow 55 has a real chance to soak in and swell the orings. That would mean your stock tolerances are somewhat decent.

[Tabris17]

That's a huge range and again, if you are on the low side and you get it stripped and it takes it under the tolerance, getting a type 2 done isn't going to provide the proper build up you need to compensate for the loss in stripping. Personally, I wouldn't risk a $1k+ marker that BLAST says not to reanno because of the leaking issues. Same with the Victory platforms, people have just destroyed their markers and they'll never seal unless they replace portions of the marker.

[minimag03]

Well stripping it would take off 0.00007" to 0.001", and then having it reanodized would add another 0.00007" to 0.001". A qualified, experienced anodizer will be able to keep it in a certain tolerance range. They can also watch out for problem areas like the ram and regs. And to top it off they will also have insurance in case they do mess up your gun. Any small difference should be take up by the Dow 55.

[Tabris17]

Insurance is one thing, getting them to admit they did it is another. Especially if it's one customer with one item, things tend to be different if you have a lot on order with them and all of them are messed up.

[minimag03]

That's the truth. It's hard to find a quality insured company that specializes in paintball anodizing, compared to industrial anodizing. However, there are a few people I would trust with stuff like this, Rainmann would be one.

I wonder if Bob Long makes his markers with loose tolerances on purpose, so Dow 55 can be used. Or if he just makes them and uses the Dow 55 keep up the slack. If it's the latter then I would think twice about anodizing, but I would hate to think that about such a high end, all USA company.

[Tabris17]

I believe dow 55 is used to compensate for potential loose tolerances in machining. It's worked all these years though. I've never had an issue unless it was something I did.

[DefTone]

Huh, got me thinking....I've gotta Vice coming in next week that's gloss blue and I was thinking about getting it done in dust tan "body, grip frame, lpr cap & asa" since it might end up being my woods ball/UWL gun...Now I'm second guessing that. I know I had some old timmies done years ago and never had issues with them.